The big headed ghost at Bor Thor cave
When I embarked on a longtail boat tour of Bor Thor, drawn by the allure of ancient caves and the legend of the Big Headed Ghost, I anticipated shielding myself from the scorching Krabi sun. However, on the appointed day, the sun was the least of my concerns. Instead, I was greeted by a somber, overcast morning, with rain persisting so relentlessly that at the Bor Thor pier, nestled in the Ao Luk northern district of Krabi, Thailand, even the local vendors’ stalls were ensconced in muddy surroundings, rendering sampling their fare impossible.
Boarding a traditional longtail boat, we navigated through canals flanked by islands cloaked entirely in mangrove swamps. Our guide enlightened us about this remarkable ecosystem, dominated by millions of mangrove tree roots protruding from the water due to insufficient air in the mud, and the intricate food chain within such forests. Mangroves not only furnish nutrients for resident animals and microorganisms but also act as a natural filter for the Marui River, trapping sediments from the upstream villages.
The reverberating noise of our boat’s engine resonated amidst the labyrinth of mangrove tree trunks, while towering limestone formations surrounded us, their verdant hues juxtaposed only by the vibrant canoes and kayaks, manned by tourists clad in equally colourful raincoats.
Entrance at the Bor Thor pier
Fifteen minutes later, we disembarked in front of a staircase leading to the entrance of Tham Phi Hua To, a marine section of the Tharnboke Koranee National Park. Situated 3.5 meters above sea level, the cave comprises two expansive interconnected chambers. It is believed to have served as a burial or ceremonial site for a prehistoric cave-dwelling community, dating back 2,000 to 3,000 years, evidenced by the discovery of human skulls within. These ancient inhabitants subsisted primarily on natural resources for sustenance and shelter. Adorning the area just above the entrance, we encountered the impeccably preserved painting of the Big Headed Ghost—a slender, hunched figure with a disproportionately large head, two antennae, a beak, a mantel-like covering enveloping its form, and protrusions emerging from its pelvic region. Crafted with henna, this pictograph has spawned a legend, alleging that the Big Headed Ghost, once a terrorizing presence, still haunts the cave, guarding its enigma and essence.
kayaks stationed at Bor Thor pier
Embarking on our exploration, we traversed the first chamber, replete with millennia-old stalactites and stalagmites, while a musty fragrance hung in the air. Adorning the walls were over a hundred paintings, partially preserved despite the ravages of time and climate. These primitive depictions, some rudimentary in nature, were rendered using henna, clay, and other natural pigments, illustrating people, marine life, tools, and vignettes of daily existence. Notably, the paintings varied in elevation, a testament to the fluctuating water levels both inside and outside the cave, which would rise during high tides, compelling inhabitants to seek refuge on higher cave floors, where they crafted these artworks during periods of respite. The abundance of ancient pictographs adorning the upper grotto walls corroborates this hypothesis. Ascending to the north chamber, we were treated to a panoramic vista of mangroves, limestone formations, and the meandering waterways below.
I am enjoying the long-tail boat trip
Upon returning to the longtail boat, we embarked on an exhilarating journey through Tahm Lod Tai, a cave nestled beneath a limestone hill, characterized by narrow passageways. Laden with awe-inspiring stalactites and stalagmites, this cave is navigable only during low tide. Our boat glided serenely through the cavern, affording us ample time to silently marvel at this marvel of nature.
As we disembarked at the Bor Thor pier, the rain had abated, and though the air retained a crisp chill, shards of sunlight pierced through the overcast sky. Descending carefully from the boat, we made our way to a riverside floating raft adorned with a thatched roof, serving as a restaurant where our lunch awaited. I found immense pleasure in this meticulously organized and pleasantly adventurous tour, replete with delightful surprises at every turn.
