Leonardo along the Way to Gobleg, Bali

Our car journey through Bali continued after exploring Lovina and Pemuteran, taking us on a scenic, hilly road up to the village of Gobleg. Along the way, Leonardo and I made some fascinating stops where we delved into two of Bali‘s unique cultural legacies: Kretek cigarettes and cockfighting.

The Kretek Cigarettes Tradition

As we drove through the highlands, we spotted locals climbing towering, makeshift bamboo ladders to harvest cloves from the treetops. Intrigued, we pulled over to learn more. The bamboo ladders, crafted from extremely long lengths of bamboo with chiseled-out rungs, are a common sight during the clove harvest season. Farmers use several ropes to stabilise the ladders, ensuring safety as they reach for the cloves hanging high above. Despite the precarious work, the pickers exude happiness, often seen joking or playing music as they work.

Leonardo, always eager to join in, excitedly started picking cloves at ground level before daring to climb one of the bamboo ladders himself—much to the amusement of the seasoned clove pickers.

Kretek, a beloved Indonesian cigarette, is made from a blend of tobacco and cloves, giving it a distinctive crackling sound when smoked. This onomatopoeic term “kretek” captures the essence of these cigarettes, which are favoured by 90% of Indonesian smokers. Cloves from Bali‘s highlands, stretching from Buleleng to Gobleg, are one of the key ingredients in these cigarettes. The spice is not only used for kretek but also in traditional medicine and essential oils.

During the clove harvest season, the air in the surrounding villages becomes infused with the rich aroma of drying clove flowers. Villagers spread the flowers across their roofs and yards to dry, creating a fragrant atmosphere that is unmistakable in these highland regions. This local process highlights the deep connection between Bali‘s agricultural roots and its cultural practices.

However, harvesting cloves isn’t without its risks. Despite using safety ropes, bamboo ladder rungs can break, leading to accidents. Every year, some pickers fall from the trees, a sobering reminder of the dangerous work behind this lucrative crop. The wealth accumulated from clove farming is evident in the local homes, but it comes with a deep respect for the craft and its inherent risks.

Cockfighting: More Than Just a Sport

As we continued driving, we noticed rows of roosters enclosed in wicker baskets on the roadside. Their cackling accompanied us along the route, providing a glimpse into another cultural aspect of Bali—cockfighting.

Though technically illegal, cockfighting still thrives in Bali, particularly during temple ceremonies where it is part of a religious offering. Blood spilled during these fights is believed to appease Bhuta and Kala, spirits thought to protect the village’s prosperity and harvest.

Leonardo, always drawn to animals, was mesmerised by the beautiful roosters. A local owner allowed him to pet and cuddle one of them, an experience that was hard for him to walk away from. The attention and care given to these birds were evident, as owners constantly bathe, train, and even massage them to prepare for fights. Though controversial, cockfighting is deeply rooted in Bali‘s cultural and religious traditions.

Gobleg: A Refreshing Highland Retreat

Finally, we arrived in Gobleg, a serene village nestled high in the mountains of Bali. The cool climate and panoramic views of the twin lakes—Danau Buyan and Danau Tamblingan—greeted us. This region, surrounded by lush greenery, felt like a peaceful retreat far removed from the more touristy areas of Bali. Agriculture plays a significant role in Gobleg’s economy, and the village remains largely untouched by mass tourism, preserving its authentic Balinese charm.

Small temples dot the landscape, and the village regularly participates in traditional Hindu ceremonies. For visitors, the area offers ample opportunities for hiking, bird-watching, and scenic drives. The stunning views and tranquil environment made Gobleg the perfect stop on our journey before continuing our exploration of Bali‘s natural beauty.

With the combination of cultural encounters and the tranquil setting of Gobleg, this leg of our Bali road trip provided both adventure and reflection. The diverse experiences—from clove harvesting to local religious practices—added depth to our journey, leaving both Leonardo and me with lasting impressions.