Forget the crowded beaches. Just north of Phuket, the province of Phang Nga unfolds in a tapestry of emerald jungles, limestone giants, and quiet canals. Here, on a media trip for AsianItinerary.com, we discovered a day where adventure meets tranquility.
Our Basecamp: Baan Ati Resort & Spa
Baan Ati wooden villas
Our home for this exploration was Baan Ati Resort & Spa, tucked away in the Natai area. The resort feels like a secret discovered.
The vision behind it is unique: conceived by a Thai woman with over two decades of international hotel management and a deep-rooted passion for art and design. You feel her touch immediately. It’s a collection of charming wooden stilt houses nestled along a serene canal, with breathtaking mountain vistas visible through the lush canopy. The air smelled of damp earth and blooming flowers. This wasn’t just a place to sleep; it was an immersion. After settling in, we set off, following the sound of rushing water.
Wat Khao waterfall Kok Kloi
The First Plunge: Wat Khao Kok Kloi & Its Secret Waterfall
Our first stop was Wat Khao Kok Kloi, a temple complex clinging to a forested hill. Hidden in its backyard is the Khao Kok Kloi Waterfall – a series of gentle, multi-tiered cascades. The water was cool and clear, pooling in natural basins perfect for a refreshing dip. Locals picnicked on mats, their laughter echoing off the limestone.
Scaling the Heights: Phu Pha Sawan Waterfall
Phu Pha Sawan waterfall
A short drive deeper into the jungle brought us to Phu Pha Sawan Waterfall. The name translates to “heavenly mountain,” and you understand why as you climb the path. The vegetation is impossibly green – ferns the size of dinner tables, vines thick as pythons. Then you see it: a magnificent curtain of water tumbling into a wide, emerald pool. We scrambled over boulders to sit directly under the cascade, the force of the water a natural massage after the humid hike.
Lunch Among the Trees: Baan Chan Café & Restaurant
Baan Chan Café & Restaurant
Just minutes from our base, tucked down a quiet lane, we found Baan Chan Café & Restaurant. Turning into the driveway feels like entering a secret garden – a charming open-air space topped with thatched roofing, surrounded by fruit orchards and towering trees. The food was delicious, but what we loved most was the atmosphere. We had a great chat with Khun Ai, the young and beautiful owner, whose passion shines through every detail. Sitting under the trees, warm light filtering through the leaves, with no rush to be anywhere else – Baan Chan is the kind of local spot travelers dream of finding. This is their FACEBOOK.
The Coastal Road: Where Marshes Meet the Sea
Refreshed, we pointed the car north. The road began to hug the coast, weaving through a landscape suspended between land and sea. On either side, marshes and lagoons stretched toward the horizon. We drove slowly, windows down, letting the salty breeze fill the car. Somewhere along that winding ribbon of asphalt, we realized we weren’t just driving to a destination. We were already there.
Wat Thettharamnawa: A Temple Born from Tranquility
Wat Thettharamnawa, the temple by the beach
Nestled on the shores of Tha Sai Beach, Wat Thettharamnawa rose from the coastal pine forest like a vision. The land once served as a forest cemetery where villagers brought their deceased by boat. Death lingered here. But in 1990, monks began coming to meditate, transforming a place of endings into a sanctuary of beginnings.
The heart of the temple is its ubosot (ordination hall) – and I have never seen anything quite like it. Unlike the gold-laden temples of Thailand’s tourist trail, this one is crafted almost entirely from golden teakwood. The wood carvings that adorn every window panel are sermons carved in wood: delicate lotus petals, mythical creatures, scenes of enlightenment so finely rendered that you marvel at the hands that held chisels decades ago.
The white Buddha at Wat Thettharamnawa
The temple is not ancient – it was consecrated in 2010 – but it feels timeless. Perhaps because of the silence, broken only by the distant murmur of waves and the rustle of pine needles.
Meditation by the Sea
We didn’t plan to stay two hours. But Wat Thettharamnawa has a way of holding onto you. I sat on the cool wooden floor of the hall, cross-legged, and closed my eyes. Later, I found a spot on the beach, watching the light shift across the Andaman Sea. A monk walked past, offering a gentle nod. No words were needed.
A Dip in the Andaman
Phang Nga off the beaten path
As our meditation faded, one look at the ocean was all it took. The beach unfolds for miles in either direction – a seemingly endless ribbon of soft, pale shoreline. No crowds, no vendors. Just us, the waves, and the whispering casuarina pines.
We waded in. The water was warm, soothing, a gentle embrace. We floated on our backs, staring up at the sky, letting the saltwater wash away the last traces of tension. Afterwards, we sat on the sand, letting the sun dry our skin. No words were needed. Just that knowing smile of travelers who have stumbled upon something perfect.
Sand between our toes and salt in our hair, we knew: this was the perfect end to a perfect day in Phang Nga.
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Baan Ati Resort & SPA
The Asian Itinerary team’s stay was kindly hosted by Baan Ati Resort & Spa. The resort is nestled along a serene canal in the Natai area of Phang Nga, and offers charming wooden stilt villa-style accommodations surrounded by tropical gardens and mountain views. Each villa features private living space, a shaded veranda, and access to the resort’s pool.
