Leonardo dolphin watching in Lovina

Leonardo dolphin watching in Lovina
Lovina Beach, located in the serene north of Bali, is well-known for its dolphin-watching excursions. Yet, if you spend any time near the shoreline, you’ll quickly realize it’s a bit of a tourist hotspot. Beach hawkers, boatmen, and eager PR folks will offer you a chance to see dolphins seemingly every few steps, making it easy to feel like you’re being sold a gimmick.

Lovina mornings are magical, with the calm sea reflecting the dawn light

It took us a few days to finally decide, mainly because I wanted to carefully weigh the different options—private boat or shared, early 6 am departure or a more leisurely 9 am start. The decision wasn’t easy, and I still wasn’t sure about diving into the tourist crowds. But sometimes, fate steps in to push us in the right direction.

That morning, Leonardo, my ever-curious son, woke up earlier than usual and declared, “Daddy, today I want to see the dolphins.” As any parent knows, a child’s wish, especially when it’s something as exciting as seeing dolphins, becomes your mission for the day. So, with little time to spare, we quickly dressed, hopped into the car, and headed straight to Lovina Beach, arriving just before 9 am.

You can read Leonardo’s excitement in his eyes

Lovina mornings are magical, with the calm sea reflecting the dawn light and the mist lifting off the distant mountains. As we strolled along the beach, we recognised a familiar face—a PR guy we had chatted with on previous days. I asked about the boat tours, but as it was already 9 am, he explained that the dolphin tours usually started earlier, around 6 am. Most boats had already sailed. However, he mentioned a possible opportunity: a boatman was waiting for two Irish girls who had booked a 9 am trip but hadn’t shown up yet. If they arrived, we could join them.

Riding the traditional jukung Balinese boat

With our hopes hanging in the balance, we waited patiently, though I could see disappointment beginning to creep into Leonardo’s eyes. The minutes dragged on—9:10, 9:15, 9:20—and just when we thought all hope was lost, the two girls appeared, and our adventure was back on!

We boarded a traditional “jukung,” a slim Balinese outrigger boat with striking curved arms extending out from either side. The boat rocked gently as we set off into the open sea, my mind racing with worry. Were we too late? Would the dolphins have already retreated into the deeper waters by now? As we sailed further from the shore, the magic happened.

Dolphins—graceful, swift, and incredibly playful

Dolphins—graceful, swift, and incredibly playful—began to emerge from the water in front of us. I counted at least a dozen at first, their sleek, grey bodies slicing through the water as they swam alongside our boat. Leonardo was mesmerised, his wide-eyed expression perfectly mirroring the awe I felt. Seeing them in person was a world away from watching them in documentaries or photos. The dolphins danced through the water in perfect harmony, and while I tried to get the perfect shot with my camera, it was the memory imprinted in my mind that mattered most.

Despite the number of boats dotting the water, the dolphins seemed unfazed

Despite the number of boats dotting the water, the dolphins seemed unfazed. Though there were many tourists eager for that perfect picture of a dolphin flipping in the air, it didn’t feel overly crowded. We managed to enjoy the entire experience—dolphins jumping out of the water, swimming playfully in groups, and even coming closer to the boat at times. It was an unforgettable moment for both Leonardo and me.

We stayed out on the water until around 11 am, the boat ride back feeling serene as the adrenaline from our dolphin sightings gradually ebbed away. Leonardo couldn’t stop talking about the dolphins, replaying the entire adventure in his mind, and I was content to listen, happy that we had decided to take this trip after all.

Why Lovina’s Dolphins?

Leonardo couldn’t stop looking at the dolphins

Lovina became famous for its dolphins because of the unique conditions that make the region a prime spot for them. The calm seas, particularly in the early morning, combined with the cool water temperatures, attract schools of fish, and naturally, the dolphins follow. The area near Lovina, particularly Kalibukbuk village, is home to a variety of dolphin species, including the spinner dolphin, known for its acrobatic leaps.

Leonardo enjoys the boat ride back

For years, local fishermen noticed the dolphins’ regular appearance in the waters just off the coast. Over time, the people of Lovina recognised the potential for tourism, and what started as small-scale tours has now blossomed into one of Bali’s most popular attractions. Though it’s become more commercialised, the experience remains truly magical, offering a rare and intimate encounter with these beautiful creatures.

Back on land, we stepped off the boat with a sense of fulfilment. The journey had been well worth it, even if it had required a bit of patience and luck. Leonardo, still buzzing with excitement, kept asking when we could come back. Who could blame him? We’d seen something extraordinary that morning, something that would stay with us for a long time.

The jukung of our dolphin adventure

Lovina and its dolphins—an experience that transcended the typical tourist activity and left us with cherished memories.

Expect to pay 100000-150000 IDR per person for a shared boat, and anything from 500,000 to 750,000 IDR for a private boat depending on the size of the boat, how many people in your group, and your haggling skills.

Echo Bali Car Rental

AsianItinerary drove around the island of Bali with a reliable car provided by Echo Bali Car Rental in Jalan Pantai Sentosa No 4,Canggu, Seminyak, Bali – You can contact Mr. Wayan Suyadnya – Tel: +62 87860131999  /  +62 85100151909 – FACEBOOK https://www.facebook.com/echobalicarrental – MAP: https://maps.app.goo.gl/m5fEDoZx8BSGfF3q7 – EMAIL: info@echobalicarrental.com

Araminth Guest House and Spa

Leonardo enjoys Araminth pool

In Lovina, Asian Itinerary stayed at Araminth Guest House and Spa. Nestled along Damai RoadAraminth Guest House and Spa is a true haven of relaxation, and the perfect place to experience the true essence of Lovina‘s natural beauty and hospitality. LOCATION HERE For bookings and information, contact bali.araminth@gmail.com

Share This

About the author

Thomas has a university background in the UK and in Latin America, with studies in Languages and Humanities, Culture, Literature and Economics. He started his Asian experience as a publisher in Krabi in 2005. Thomas has been editing local newspapers and magazines in England, Spain and Thailand for more than fifteen years. He is currently working on several projects in Thailand and abroad. Apart from Thailand, Thomas has lived in Italy, England, Venezuela, Cuba, Spain and Bali. He spends most of his time in Asia. During the years Thomas has developed a great understanding of several Asian cultures and people. He is also working freelance, writing short travel stories and articles for travel magazines. Follow Thomas on www.asianitinerary.com

View all articles by Thomas Gennaro