Sri Lanka: Climbing the Lion’s Rock with a Two-Year-Old

Sri Lanka: Climbing the Lion’s Rock with a Two-Year-Old

Have you ever wondered what it’s like to climb over a thousand steps with a two-year-old? I did, and I’m excited to share our unforgettable adventure to Sigiriya Fortress—also known as Lion’s Rock.

For our family, every day on this trip to Sri Lanka was a new mission for out toddler, and today’s challenge was to reach the top of that imposing rock and be awed by the breathtaking landscape. The journey began with a walk from our accommodation in Kimbissa to catch the bus that would take us to the climbing site. Once there, instead of taking a tuk-tuk, we chose to stroll along a dirt track, feeling the reddish-brown earth beneath our feet, surrounded by wild scenery and the sounds of nature. What should have taken about 15 minutes turned into a leisurely 40-minute walk filled with dancing, singing, and playing with Sebastian. It was pure magic—just us, nature, and our little explorer.

At the entrance, we found two lines—one for Sri Lankan citizens and one for foreigners—set amidst a lively park teeming with monkeys. After another 40-minute wait, we finally entered and began our ascent. The top of Sigiriya was hidden behind a thick cloud, hinting at impending rain, but our spirits remained high. We had a mission to accomplish, and we were determined.

The stairs loomed ahead. Was Sebastian scared? Tired? Not at all. He eagerly started climbing, eager to reach the fortress’s summit. Step after step—20, 50, nearly 100—he was focused and unstoppable. At times, we had to gently place him in a carrier to protect his hips from the long climb (1200 steps!), but even that didn’t dampen his enthusiasm. We pressed on, and just as we were about to reach the final steps, two unexpected adventures unfolded.

First, a mischievous monkey, from a distance, leapt toward us and snatched a sealed pack of crackers from my sport sling. Clearly, monkeys are more athletic and food-savvy than us! Sebastian found the whole scene hilarious—monkeys, food, and all. Then, just as we were processing this, rain began pouring down—our funniest moment of the day.

Suddenly, Sebastian and I were jumping in puddles, splashing on the rocks, and reveling in the fortress ruins as if we were alone. Marco, caught in the rain, sought shelter with everyone else, but we didn’t mind. The rain slowed, clouds parted, and we were treated to a stunning view of the various levels of Lion’s Rock. We explored as much as possible, sliding down handrails and soaking in the scenery.

Our final stop was a spiral staircase leading to a chamber with exquisite frescoes of the Sigiriya maidens—painted directly onto the rock face over 1,500 years ago. It was a perfect ending to a day full of adventure.

Exhausted, wet, and slightly hungry, we made our way back to our B&B, saying goodbye to the monkeys and macaques along the way. We shared the last of our snacks, feeling grateful for the day’s adventures. Despite the unpredictable weather, we discovered that traveling with a toddler often reveals hidden resources within ourselves—resilience, patience, and the ability to find joy in every unexpected moment.

Following Sebastian’s lead turned our climb into a magical family adventure, reminding us that sometimes, the best journeys are those that embrace spontaneity and the surprises along the way.

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About the author

Emanuela was born and raised in Italy, but she has always dreamed of wandering around the world and never stopping — even with kids — because she believes that traveling is more enriching than anything else. She loves discovering food, sports, and nature — in that exact order. Her current job is as a business analyst for a mobile app, making her an open-minded IT woman. She has already lived for a couple of months in Barcelona, Spain, but who knows where life will take her and her family next.

View all articles by Emanuela Calvanese