A devotee making an offer

Located in Nakhon Pathom, just west of Bangkok, Phutthamonthon Park is one of Thailand’s most significant spiritual landmarks, combining natural beauty with profound religious meaning. At the heart of this serene park stands the towering Phra Si Sakaya Thotsaphala Yan Prathan Phutthamonthon, often referred to as the Phutthamonthon Buddha Statue. This awe-inspiring figure serves as a symbol of peace, enlightenment, and the enduring influence of Buddhism in Thailand.

The Phutthamonthon Statue: A Colossal Tribute to the Buddha

Phutthamonthon

Standing an impressive 15.87 meters high, the Phutthamonthon statue is a striking representation of the Buddha in the abhayamudra posture (a gesture of fearlessness), one of the most revered poses in Buddhist iconography. The statue dominates the landscape of the 400-hectare park, capturing the attention of visitors with its grandeur and serenity. The surrounding park is meticulously landscaped with ponds, pavilions, and walking paths, making it a tranquil retreat for meditation, reflection, and leisurely strolls.

We visited this remarkable site early one morning on our way back to Bangkok during a Suphanburi tour. The park was already alive with activity—people were jogging, doing calisthenics, or simply strolling along the many lush garden paths, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere that pervades the park.

The Mastermind Behind the Statue: Corrado Feroci (Silpa Bhirasri)

The Italian artist naturalised Thai, Corrado Feroci

The remarkable Phutthamonthon statue is not just a work of religious art; it is a masterpiece created by an artist whose legacy continues to influence Thai art and culture. The Italian sculptor Corrado Feroci, who later adopted the Thai name Silpa Bhirasri, is the genius behind this monumental statue. Feroci, originally from Florence, Italy, arrived in Thailand in the 1920s to teach art and quickly became an integral figure in the country’s artistic landscape. He founded Thailand‘s prestigious Silpakorn University, helping shape generations of Thai artists.

Feroci‘s influence extended far beyond academia. He was a key figure in merging traditional Thai aesthetics with Western techniques, which allowed him to create art that resonated deeply with both local and international audiences. His work on the Phutthamonthon statue exemplifies this synthesis, combining classical Buddhist iconography with a modern sculptural approach, resulting in a piece that embodies spiritual reverence and artistic mastery.

A Timeless Legacy
Phutthamonthon Park, and especially its Buddha statue, are not only significant for their religious and spiritual connotations but also for the story of collaboration and cultural exchange they represent. Corrado Feroci‘s work on the statue is a testament to his deep connection to Thailand and his passion for contributing to its artistic heritage. Though he passed away in 1962, his influence lives on in the hearts of those who visit Phutthamonthon and in the broader Thai art scene.

Whether you’re a traveler exploring the religious landmarks of Thailand or an art enthusiast eager to appreciate the work of a master sculptor, Phutthamonthon Park offers an enriching experience. The park’s peaceful atmosphere, combined with the majestic presence of the Phutthamonthon statue, invites reflection on both the spiritual and artistic histories that continue to shape Thailand.

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Wat Phra Prathon Chedi Worawihan in the town of Nakhon Pathom is believed to have been established during the Dvaravati period, around the 6th to 11th centuries, making it one of the oldest religious sites in Thailand. The name “Prathon” is derived from “Phra Thong,” which refers to the golden Buddha image enshrined here.

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A Journey Through History and Spiritual Reflection

Wat Phra Prathon Chedi Worawihan

Last month, on a serene journey to Suphanburi, my colleague and photographer Pluto and I made an unforgettable stop at Wat Phra Prathon Chedi Worawihan in Nakhon Pathom. This ancient temple, less famous than its towering neighbor, Phra Pathom Chedi, exudes a profound sense of history and spirituality.

Historical Significance

A monk carrying out his duties

Wat Phra Prathon Chedi Worawihan is believed to have been established during the Dvaravati period, around the 6th to 11th centuries, making it one of the oldest religious sites in Thailand. The name “Prathon” is derived from “Phra Thong,” which refers to the golden Buddha image enshrined here. The temple’s chedi, though not as massive as Phra Pathom, holds immense historical value as it represents the early spread of Buddhism in Thailand. Legend has it that the temple was built over the site where a sacred relic was found, adding to its spiritual significance.

A Walk Through Time and Emotion

An aged statue covered in gold leaves

Walking through the temple grounds, I was struck by the peaceful ambiance that seemed to resonate from the ancient bricks and aged statues. The chedi, with its weathered exterior, stands as a silent witness to centuries of devotion and change. As we explored, I felt a deep connection to the past, as if the walls themselves were whispering tales of monks who once walked these paths in search of enlightenment.

A quiet sanctuary

The temple’s tranquil environment invites introspection. The rustling of leaves in the courtyard, the gentle hum of prayers, and the soft glow of candles created a meditative atmosphere. It’s a place where one can’t help but feel a sense of reverence and peace, a quiet sanctuary from the bustling world outside.

Spiritual Reflection

Pluto capturing details at Wat Phra Prathon Chedi Worawihan

As we paused to capture the temple’s essence through Pluto’s lens, I found myself contemplating the impermanence of life, a theme central to Buddhist teachings. The ancient relics and sacred images seemed to echo this sentiment, reminding visitors of the transient nature of existence and the enduring pursuit of spiritual awakening.

In conclusion, a visit to Wat Phra Prathon Chedi Worawihan in Nakhon Pathom is more than just a historical exploration; it’s a spiritual journey that leaves a lasting impression. Whether you are a history enthusiast, a spiritual seeker, or simply a traveler looking for a moment of peace, this temple offers a profound experience that resonates long after you’ve left its sacred grounds.

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Phra Pathom Chedi is a Buddhist stupa in Thailand. The stupa is located in a temple in the town center of Nakhon Pathom. Phra Pathom Chedi is one of the tallest stupas in the world.

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Approaching the site

On a sweltering morning last month, Pluto—my trusted photographer and videographer—and I embarked on a journey from Bangkok towards Suphanburi province. Our first stop was the majestic Phra Pathom Chedi, located in Nakhon Pathom, a site that left us both awestruck.

The Majestic Stupa: An Architectural Marvel

Phra Pathom Chedi towering stupa

As we approached Phra Pathom Chedi, the first thing that struck us was its sheer scale. The towering stupa, known as one of the largest in the world, stood proudly against the clear blue sky. This golden-brown monument, which reaches a height of 120.45 meters, is not only an architectural marvel but also a significant religious symbol in Thai Buddhism.

Historical Significance and Legends

Phra Pathom Chedi historical references are many

Phra Pathom Chedi‘s history is as rich as its grandeur. Originally constructed during the I, around the 6th to 11th centuries, it is believed to mark the site where Buddhism was first introduced to Thailand. The Chedi is also associated with the legend of Phaya Gong and Phaya Phan, two rival kings whose conflict is said to have led to the original stupa’s construction. This legend adds a layer of cultural depth to the site’s historical significance.

King Mongkut

In the 19th century, King Mongkut (Rama IV) rediscovered the ancient stupa, then in a state of disrepair, and initiated its reconstruction, transforming it into the monumental structure we see today. Further development continued over the years, preserving its importance as a spiritual and cultural landmark. The significance of Phra Pathom Chedi has been recognized on a global scale, with the site being nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, reflecting its historical and cultural value.

Spiritual Heritage: A Living Center of Buddhism

Monks’ classes under the shade of the arched corridors

As we walked around the vast temple complex, we couldn’t help but notice the peaceful ambiance that permeated the air. The temple grounds also host a school for monks, where young novices, dressed in their distinctive orange robes, were studying under the shade of the arched corridors that surround the stupa. It was humbling to witness these monks, some of whom were barely teenagers, deep in meditation or engaged in their studies. Their presence added to the sacredness of the place, reminding us that Phra Pathom Chedi is not just a historical site, but a living, breathing center of Buddhist learning and practice.

The corridors are lined with countless Buddha images

The main stupa is surrounded by a cloister lined with countless Buddha images, each one a testament to the deep spiritual roots that anchor this sacred space. As we moved through the temple, we saw devotees offering prayers, lighting incense, and making merit, their devotion palpable in the serene atmosphere.

For those interested in Buddhism or Thai history, a visit to Phra Pathom Chedi is a journey through both time and spirituality. This ancient structure, with its grandiose architecture and profound religious significance, serves as a reminder of the enduring influence of Buddhism in Thailand. As we left the temple to continue our journey to Suphanburi, we carried with us a sense of tranquility and a deeper appreciation for the spiritual heritage of the Thailand.

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Giving alms to Bhikkhuni nuns

6am; the sun rose less than half an hour ago when, from a gate located in a small quiet street just off the main road, three shaved head figures, covered in saffron robes, looking peaceful, carrying a round metal bowl in their arms, come out in a single line walking towards the small village nearby.

It is a scene of everyday life here in Thailand, where every morning Buddhist monks venture out of their temples to go receive the food that people offer them, an act aimed at giving them sustenance as well as at acquiring merits to stock for the next life. Nothing particularly original then in an image repeated for centuries, day after day, in every country that embraces the Buddhist tradition.

A lady Bhikkhuni nun

Nothing original except that the three figures that left the Songdhammakalyani Temple, located a short drive from the city of Nakhon Pathom about sixty kilometers west of Bangkok, are actually Bhikkhuni (fully ordained Buddhist nuns – see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bhikkhuni). An extremely disciplined black dog walks in front of the nuns almost as if wanting to protect them, while behind walks a Brazilian nun from a different order in temporary visit to the temple, and a young Indian novice nun dressed in a white tunic and with long black hair tight to a tail who is booked to be ordained in a matter of days. She pushes a cart destined to collect the bulk of the offers.

The small procession proceeds silent, almost in meditation; the first rays of the sun gently pose on their orange tunics, illuminating them as if to give them a halo of spirituality; all around the nothingness. Empty streets where a scooter or a car occasionally pass and disturbs, with their noise, this early morning poetic scene. Then, in the near distance, suddenly a bit of entertainment: in front of a local shop, a couple of people are waiting. The Bhikkhunis approach the group, place themselves in front of the villagers who in the mean time have opened their containers, and wait that they fill their bowls with fresh food. More offerings are given to the monks, and the novice stores it neatly in the cart. The people kneel down hands-folded waiting for a blessing that soon comes in the form of singing, then the little procession continues their walk.

Bhikkhunis collecting alms

The scene is repeated several times, the containers increase their content, the cart is filled up; people kneel and the singing quietly raises towards the sky. For each offering, a smile lights up the Bhikkhunis’ faces, followed by a word of comfort to a man on his knees in spite of his handicap, encouragement and best wishes to a Chinese elderly with a wealthy appearance who donated a lot more than other people. In a few small word, is the local presence of these women who have sacrificed their femininity and their life to devote themselves to people and meditation.

The Venerable Dhammananda, founder of the temple’s daughter and present abbess, has a solar face and a friendly smile, and possesses the dedication of those who are accustomed to donate their time to others. In a short interview she tells us that the local population is very supportive towards the nuns, who have represented a very active presence in the area for more than one whole generation. They consider the temple as a reference point where to find comfort exactly in the same way as it happens for the males oriented temples.

We had already received confirmation of her words when the group had just returned from their morning alms and they were getting ready for their first of the two meals of the day (nuns, just like their male counterparts, can only eat two meals a day, and after midday only can take in liquids, though a light evening meal is allowed only for health reasons). At that time, the first devotees started arriving to the temple with more food, helped them to prepare meals, and only after having served lunch to the Bhikkhunis arranged in a row on one side of the refectory, sat down on the opposite side, chanted a prayer and ate their own food, washing all the dishes afterwards.

Meanwhile, other people continued to arrive and donated more food, this time for the midday meal, and attended a ceremony in memory of two women who had previously died.

Bhikkhunis’ lunch

There was an atmosphere of celebration and harmony which did manage to involve those who, like us, was just visiting, all in a frame that conveyed a sense of peace and spirituality. This in spite of the noise of the traffic that reached us, gradually louder and louder, from the main street adjacent to one side of the temple, as well as from the renovation works from the inside of the structure. This noise became mere background in that intense atmosphere that pervaded the intense activities of the temple.

The Songdhammakalyani temple this year celebrates 54 years of age if we calculate the birthdate from the date of purchase of the land that hosts it. It was founded by the venerable Voramai Kabilsingh, mother of the current abbess, a very interesting character considering that she was born in 1908. A writer, a poet, a teacher, married to a Thai member of parliament at the time of World War II, she lived for a short time in southern Thailand before moving back to Bangkok after the birth of her daughter. She started to get passionate about meditation, she then engaged in studies on Buddhism until, in 1955, she edited a Buddhist monthly journal that she would manage for 32 years. In 1956 she took the minor orders and 15 years later, in 1971, was ordained a Bhikkhuni, or nun, in Taiwan, when Thailand did not yet recognized the ordination of a woman. It was in 1960 that she purchased the land on which the temple would be later built. Nakhon Pathom was chosen as the location not by chance: this city is considered the gateway to the Theravada Buddhism in Thailand; Voramai wanted to give continuity to the tradition of the cradle of Buddhism in this province with the building of the first temple of the feminine realm.

Bhikkhunis at the temple

Her life also has some picturesque implications that complete the portrait of a person that I can only describe as extremely fascinating: in 1972, at the tender age of 64, she was the only female scout to travel by bicycle to Singapore in a trip that took 29 days, setting an unsurpassed record. What we do not find in the biographies we can only imagine: a life of dedication to what she believed in, spent drawing inspiration from the Buddha teachings, devoted to meditation, to others, and to the building of that project so utopian in other monotheistic religions, one that led the women to a monastic level equal to that of men.

The venerable Voramai Kabilsingh, known before as Bhiksuni in the Kingdom of Thailand, died in June 2003 at the age of 95; her binding legacy was picked up by her daughter, whom we had the pleasure and honour to meet during a morning spent to deepen our knowledge on a reality still little known, between visits and ceremonies. She now has the difficult task of educating a group of quality Bhikkhuni nuns, as she calls them.

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