Lovina Beach, located in the serene north of Bali, is well-known for its dolphin-watching excursions. Yet, if you spend any time near the shoreline, you’ll quickly realize it’s a bit of a tourist hotspot. Beach hawkers, boatmen, and eager PR folks will offer you a chance to see dolphins seemingly every few steps, making it easy to feel like you’re being sold a gimmick. It took us a few days to finally decide, mainly because I wanted to carefully weigh the different options—private boat or shared, early 6 am departure or a more leisurely 9 am start. The decision wasn’t easy, and I still wasn’t sure about diving into the tourist crowds. But sometimes, fate steps in to push us in the right direction. That morning, Leonardo, my ever-curious son, woke up earlier than usual and declared, “Daddy, today I want to see the dolphins.” As any parent knows, a child’s wish, especially when it’s something as exciting as seeing dolphins, becomes your mission for the day. So, with little time to spare, we quickly dressed, hopped into the car, and headed straight to Lovina Beach, arriving just before 9 am. Lovina mornings are magical, with the calm sea reflecting the dawn light and the mist lifting off the distant mountains. As we strolled along the beach, we recognised a familiar face—a PR guy we had chatted with on previous days. I asked about the boat tours, but as it was already 9 am, he explained that the dolphin tours usually started earlier, around 6 am. Most boats had already sailed. However, he mentioned a possible opportunity: a boatman was waiting for two Irish girls who had booked a 9 am trip but hadn’t shown up yet. If they arrived, we could join them. With our hopes hanging in the balance, we waited patiently, though I could see disappointment beginning to creep into Leonardo’s eyes. The minutes dragged on—9:10, 9:15, 9:20—and just when we thought all hope was lost, the two girls appeared, and our adventure was back on! We boarded a traditional “jukung,” a slim Balinese outrigger boat with striking curved arms extending out from either side. The boat rocked gently as we set off into the open sea, my mind racing with worry. Were we too late? Would the dolphins have already retreated into the deeper waters by now? As we sailed further from the shore, the magic happened. Dolphins—graceful, swift, and incredibly playful—began to emerge from the water in front of us. I counted at least a dozen at first, their sleek, grey bodies slicing through the water as they swam alongside our boat. Leonardo was mesmerised, his wide-eyed expression perfectly mirroring the awe I felt. Seeing them in person was a world away from watching them in documentaries or photos. The dolphins danced through the water in perfect harmony, and while I tried to get the perfect shot with my camera, it was the memory imprinted in my mind that mattered most. Despite the number of boats dotting the water, the dolphins seemed unfazed. Though there were many tourists eager for that perfect picture of a dolphin flipping in the air, it didn’t feel overly crowded. We managed to enjoy the entire experience—dolphins jumping out of the water, swimming playfully in groups, and even coming closer to the boat at times. It was an unforgettable moment for both Leonardo and me. We stayed out on the water until around 11 am, the boat ride back feeling serene as the adrenaline from our dolphin sightings gradually ebbed away. Leonardo couldn’t stop talking about the dolphins, replaying the entire adventure in his mind, and I was content to listen, happy that we had decided to take this trip after all. Why Lovina’s Dolphins? Lovina became famous for its dolphins because of the unique conditions that make the region a prime spot for them. The calm seas, particularly in the early morning, combined with the cool water temperatures, attract schools of fish, and naturally, the dolphins follow. The area near Lovina, particularly Kalibukbuk village, is home to a variety of dolphin species, including the spinner dolphin, known for its acrobatic leaps. For years, local fishermen noticed the dolphins’ regular appearance in the waters just off the coast. Over time, the people of Lovina recognised the potential for tourism, and what started as small-scale tours has now blossomed into one of Bali’s most popular attractions. Though it’s become more commercialised, the experience remains truly magical, offering a rare and intimate encounter with these beautiful creatures. Back on land, we stepped off the boat with a sense of fulfilment. The journey had been well worth it, even if it had required a bit of patience and luck. Leonardo, still buzzing with excitement, kept asking when we could come back. Who could blame him? We’d seen something extraordinary that morning, something that would stay with us for a long time. Lovina and its dolphins—an experience that transcended the typical tourist activity and left us with cherished memories. Expect to pay 100000-150000 IDR per person for a shared boat, and anything from 500,000 to 750,000 IDR for a private boat depending on the size of the boat, how many people in your group, and your haggling skills. Echo Bali Car Rental AsianItinerary drove around the island of Bali with a reliable car provided by Echo Bali Car Rental in Jalan Pantai Sentosa No 4,Canggu, Seminyak, Bali – You can contact Mr. Wayan Suyadnya – Tel: +62 87860131999  /  +62 85100151909 – FACEBOOK https://www.facebook.com/echobalicarrental – MAP: https://maps.app.goo.gl/m5fEDoZx8BSGfF3q7 – EMAIL: info@echobalicarrental.com Araminth Guest House and Spa In Lovina, Asian Itinerary stayed at Araminth Guest House and Spa. Nestled along Damai Road, Araminth Guest House and Spa is a true haven of relaxation, and the perfect place to experience the true essence of Lovina‘s natural beauty and hospitality. LOCATION HERE For bookings and information, contact bali.araminth@gmail.com

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Cambodian premier Hun Sen on Monday ordered the creation of conservation zones on the Mekong river to protect critically endangered dolphins, after three were killed by fishing nets and lines last month. The Irrawaddy dolphins, known for their bulging foreheads and short beaks, once swam through much of the mighty Mekong but in recent decades have been limited to a 190-km (118-mile) stretch from northeast Kratie province to the border with Laos. Their population has been in steady decline since the first census was taken in 1997, dropping from 200 that year to around 90 currently due to habitat loss and destructive fishing practices. Speaking at a ceremony in Kratie, Hun Sen ordered authorities to set up floating markers around designated protection zones, in which there will be an “absolute ban” on all fishing. “The Mekong river, which is home to near-extinct dolphins and fish species, must be well managed so that dolphins will not die from entanglement in gillnets,” he said. Gillnets are nets strung across parts of the river to snare fish. “The dolphin areas must be protected completely,” he said, adding that the animals’ presence contributed to local tourism. Three healthy breeding-age dolphins died within a week of each other last month. The deaths alarmed conservationists, who called for both day- and night-patrols in order to protect the remaining dolphins from being killed by illegal fishing. Eleven dolphins died in 2022, bringing the total number of dead dolphins to 29 in the last three years, according to the World Wildlife Fund (WWF). In a statement, WWF called on all relevant authorities “to enact and roll-out appropriate measures to urgently address the mortality” caused by the threats of gillnets and electro-fishing that take place in the dolphin conservation areas. Cambodia is home to the largest population of Irrawaddy dolphins, which are also found in rivers and lakes in Myanmar, Indonesia, India and Thailand.

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It was with a hint of excitement that we embarked on the highly recommended Santubong Mangroves Swamps River Cruise, a three hours cruise on a PVC motorized launch that navigates the several branches of the Santubong River and Salak River delta systems that come together before joining the South China Sea. This tour, sometimes called Santubong Wildlife Cruise, is best taken at high tide, and it combines a mangrove cruise with a visit to the Santubong River mouth in search of the rare Irrawaddy dolphins and for a chance to see some of Sarawak’s fascinating wildlife that inhabit the mangrove swamps, namely crocodiles, mudskippers, crabs, shell fish, proboscis monkeys and more. The minivan transfer took us from Kuching Town along the highway that crosses the Santubong peninsula to the Sarawak Boat Club, from where the river cruise boats depart. Our boat hosted 20 people and included the captain and 2 members of the crew that also functioned as knowledgeable guides. We were accompanied by private guide Wayne, courtesy of the Sarawak Tourism Board. The boat navigated in slow motion due to the low tide, indeed not the best conditions for this tour, but it was the only time-frame that we could accommodate. We cruised past small colourful fishing villages and had great views of Santubong peak and the surrounding lush hills whose shapes and silhouettes were accentuated by the lowering sun. Our boat roamed the mangrove-lined river looking for wildlife, while a gentle breeze caressed us and made us realize how quiet it was all around. Dusk was approaching tainting the water brown, water that peacefully hit dark-grey sand shores that, thanks to the low tide, revealed huge mangrove roots. The guides continued feeding us information: these heavily silted mangroves and the tidal swamps in which they thrive are often mistaken as a wasteland, used in the construction industry for piling and also as charcoal for cooking. Coal production was also a huge mangrove decimator in Thailand before the Royal family declared mangroves a protected tree species. Mangrove swamps in fact sustain many different species of trees, including the versatile Napah palms, and enjoy a symbiotic relationship with prawns, fish, lizards, and other coastal organisms. As we absorbed all this data, a small monitor lizard appeared, stood motionless and looked at us head up, patiently waiting for our boat to pass. Big mudskippers slid and jumped on the muddy shore as if in a toboggan at a fun-fair, a fisherman tried his luck with a fishing cane from his wooden boat, while fluffy clouds started towering above us, and an eagle glided in search of preys, before disappearing behind one of the peaks. This tour was providing a unique view of the picturesque riverine life of Kuching surroundings, and of nature of course, which was confirming itself as the main character of a supreme environmental design. It was past 6,30pm; crew and passengers looked out attentively for a sighting of proboscis monkeys, since small groups are often seen in the treetops at the water edge at this time of the day, settling down for the night. No luck. Birds chirped and cicadas sang, the boat kept flanking the shore in search of wildlife until, past the last meander, the open sea showed us its immensity; in the distance we could spot the two islands Pulau Satang Besar and Pulau Satang Kecil part of Satang Turtle Island National Park. We knew we had reached the vicinity of Salak village when we heard roosters singing; there we enjoyed the sight of Malay houses on stilts, each painted in a different lively colour, and of the local Muslim population meeting in porches, men chatting, women cooking, kids playing. We marveled at floating fish farms, at a local market scene and at a majestic mosque, all forming part of the scenic landscape. It is not the Amazon of course, still you cannot help but think about the lifestyle of local communities living here with no running water or electricity, at barely 30 minutes from the biggest town in the Malaysian Borneo, commuting daily with their small wooden boats to the Sarawak Boat Club where their wheeled vehicles are parked, and traveling daily to town to sell produce and buy goods of first necessity for the village. The cruise continued its slow navigation along the river, and finally dark descended upon us; we kept an eye on the waters around the boat but there was no sight of the unusual looking Irrawaddy dolphins at the place where they are often spotted. These marine mammal inhabits rivers, estuaries and shallow coastal areas, and the Santubong area is one of the best places in Sarawak to spot them. These dolphins are wild creatures of course, and therefore sightings cannot be guaranteed, but the guide informed us of their high success rate, so it was down to our luck. I was not disappointed at all, there were so many features that I was enjoying, but the lulling made me feel so sleepy – I needed a boost; I did not expect a hornbill, but at least a croc snapping out of the water, a monkey jumping on the boat and creating panic, anything please… The guides were now after fireflies and crocodiles! Crocodiles are a protected species here in Sarawak, and are often seen on these mud banks; and passing a torch light over the river often guarantees the sight of brightly shining eyes; no luck here either. After the crocodile search was over, the boat proceeded back upriver to a spot where fireflies gather at night. There were so many of them, moving around the branches of the mangroves and momentarily lighting up the pitch-dark night sky; the whole place gleamed with a magic aura. It was time to return to the Sarawak Boat Club. We did not have much luck in terms of wildlife sightings, with that small monitor lizard being the only really wild animal we encountered. I was left to imagine these elusive animals...

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