visit Japan’s ‘little Kyoto’

Ozu Castle was the first castle in Japan to offer guests an exclusive overnight experience (Credit- thanyarat07:Getty Images)

I arrived at Ozu via a narrow pass winding through the mountains of western Shikoku, the smallest of Japan‘s four main islands. As I descended into a basin formed by a horseshoe bend of the Hiji River, Ozu Castle appeared: a four-tiered, timber-clad fortress dating to the 14th Century perched atop a central hill. Nestled protectively behind it, hugging the riverbank, lay the ancient town. The scene’s allure was heightened by a gentle mist rising from the river that swirled around the snow-dusted mountains.

I’d previously visited Ozu in 2018, making a quick stop to see its castle while on a trip further south. At that time many of the old town’s buildings were neglected, some were abandoned, with a few even demolished.

Ozu has been working to once again become the cultural heart of the region (Credit- Ozu City Tourism)

The city was fairly deserted and, after a quick stroll around, I continued on my way.

However, on my latest trip in February 2024, I was amazed by Ozu’s remarkable transformation. The old town was bustling with life and the plaza in front of Ozu Machi-no-Eki Asamoya, which serves as a tourist information centre and local crafts and food emporium, resembled a lively village square, with local families mingling among the visitors. Heading to my hotel, I passed a row of elegant samurai residences with large gardens. One housed Shun, a restaurant serving Ozu’s specialty of imotaki, a traditional stew of chicken, taro and other vegetables, where a queue stretched out for lunch.

Nipponia Ozu Castle Town Hotel is the centrepiece of the town’s revitalisation (Credit- Nipponia Hotel)

On the opposite side of the street, in traditional castle town configuration, were merchants’ establishments; their storehouses newly plastered and white-washed and now home to cafes, bars and a local history museum.

Often referred to as a “little Kyoto” thanks to a similar historical appeal, Ozu was once the capital of the old Iyo feudal domain (much of present-day Ehime prefecture) from 1617 to 1868, and its merchants became wealthy from the production and trade of wax, silk, paper and timber. However, Ozu’s economic decline over the past century, like many river towns worldwide, led to decaying heritage sites and the exodus of residents to major cities.