The river surroundings at Nanga Uyau

Gawai (which in the Sarawak native language, Iban, means Festival) is a cultural festival celebrated by the Dayak people of Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo, and also in the neighboring region, Indonesian Kalimantan. Groups that celebrate Gawai include the Iban that are known as Sea Dayak, the Bidayuh known as Land Dayak, and the Orang Ulu, group that covers a wide range of small ethnic groups such as Kayan, Kenyah and Lun Bawang.

According to Iban folklore, the festival started when a man travelled back to the world of the gods and spirits where he had been invited to join a feast with them. It is believed that the Gawai ceremony was held in order to materialize God’s words in his dream, and this is why, in the ancient times, whoever performed a Gawai ceremony would have their lives blessed.

Local villagers awaiting the celebrations

For the Iban community, the opening ceremony of Gawai in the villages begins in the evening of 31^st of May, with traditional music and a ritual to keep the spirit of greed from ruining the celebration, also called Muai Antu Rua in Iban. On the next day, the head of the festival will sacrifice chickens to show thanks for a good harvest. During this time, he will ask for a good harvest for the coming years too. In the evening, a dinner of rice steamed in bamboo and sweet cakes made from coconut milk will be served. At midnight, the head of the festival will then make a toast with ‘tuak’, a locally brewed rice wine, wishing for a long life. The ceremony then continues with lots of dancing, singing, and drinking. This is of course what happened in the past, when the celebration praised the end the harvesting season and the start of a new farming season, in the period towards Thanksgiving Day.

As for now, Gawai has become a must celebration for the Dayak people. During this occasion, Dayak people pay their visit to family and friends’ houses, a practice called ‘ngabang’ in Iban language.

This story is not only about culture: I am going to share with you a journey to a hidden place immersed in nature, a place where they still practice this traditional happening. If you have never been to a Gawai festival, you must know that in the modern days, when we talk about Gawai, the first thing entering mind is where is the longhouse you heading too. Last May, my family and I planned a trip back to Sri Aman, or the land of pigeons.

Exiting times in the village

The beginning of the journeys was a 4 hours drive from Kuching to Sri Aman; once there, we needed a four wheel drive hicle in order to reach Sebeliau, near Lubok Antu area, where we joined other family members. The road was rough and muddy as it had recently rained. It was such a challenging trip, and we got stuck several times, struggling to pull out the car from the muddy terrain, yet it felt amazing how the family really worked together during those hard moments.

Located 31 kilometers from Sebeliau, Nanga Uyau is a village surrounded by a lush nature of mountains and rivers, where people are warm and the air is clean and fresh, especially in the mornings. Nanga Uyau has around 20 households and no electricity, water supply or any sort of telecommunication, the perfect place if one wants to take a break from city life.

One of the cars that got stuck in the mud

If you will ever visit Nanga Uyau, you will be amazed by the great treatment you will receive by its friendly and warm villagers. The interesting fact about this hidden place is that during Dawai festival, villagers still practice their unique culture which is totally unknown to the world.

Every year, on the 31^st of May, the villagers start to gather around dressed in the traditional clothes called ‘ngepan Iban’ in the local language. It is believed that wearing these clothes is important as they are the symbol of Gawai. The head of village will then start to serve ‘tuak’ – the rice wine – to the villagers, making toasts with them. Once the toasts are finished, the villagers start the tradition by bringing food out to the ‘ruai’ – the hall – and eat dinner with their family members. The celebrations will then continue with ‘ngabang’ – visiting – among the other houses in the longhouse.

This is only what happens on the opening day, yet there are a lot more activities between 1^st and 4^th of June, when you can see the dancing and traditional Iban music, try the ‘ngepan Iban’ rice wine, eat the traditional food and go for a swim in the nearby river. I could be here sharing more and writing forever, but I guess it is enough for now and hope this story has prompted you to make a trip there and try the Gawai festival in person!

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Playing Sarawak traditional instruments

Borneo World Music Expo consists of a trade fair, musical showcases, conferences, exhibitions and networking sessions. It brings together the world of traditional, ethnic, folks and roots music to Kuching, Malaysian Borneo, for a 3 day event. The expo in itself is the first of its kind organized in South East Asia, it is in its second year and is the prelude to Sarawak’s iconic music festival, the Rainforest World Music Festival.

The expo kicked off with a bang on June 16^th at the Hilton Kuching as artists from Borneo and peninsular Malaysia took the stage to perform musical showcases that enthralled an audience from all over the world. Guests were treated to a repertoire of traditional music supplemented by percussions, gongs and violins, as well as Bidayuh roots music by an Orang Asli musical and dance group who performed clad in their remarkable native costumes with an assortment of gongs, drums and bamboo shakers.

Sarawak Tourism Board (STB) CEO Dato’ Rashid Khan stated that they “have no doubt that this expo will have an enormous benefit to the local and international music industry as it provides a platform for these showcases to move to the international arena.”

Ding Yu Ling member playing at the expo

Groups performing during the 3-days event hail from India, Thailand, Myanmar, Singapore and Indonesia. Tourism Minister Datuk Amar Abang Johari Tung Openg said that this expo is specifically designed to expose Asian ethnic musicians to the international market, and reminded participants that some artists from last year event were later invited to perform in France and Germany.

Borneo World Music Expo director Gerald Seligman praised the event as a great way forward for local musicians to improve their music so it can be accepted by the community at large, as well as introducing their indigenous culture to the world. Dato’ Rashid Khan, the organizer of 17 Rainforest World Music Festivals added that the expo is about trade, networking and business behind the entertainment industry, creating business while conserving local music. Borneo World Music Expo is bound to become Asia premier world music exhibition within the next five years.

Follow the events on www.borneomusicexpo.com – www.rwmf.net

Facebook: Sarawak Travel, Malaysia, Borneo

Twitter: Sarawak Travel

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Map pf Sarawak

Lun Bawang Festival is a tradition of the Lun Bawang, one of the ethnic groups that can be found in the central-northern region of Sarawak called Lawas. Lun Bawang are categorized in Sarawak as Orang Ulu; apart from Sarawak, this ethnic groups can be found in other locations of Borneo such as Brunei, Sabah and West Kalimantan, Indonesia. It is for this reason they tend to get different names: Lun Dayeh or Lun Daye, Lun Lod, Lun Baa’ or Lun Tana Luun.

During ancient times, this ethnic group practices traditional agriculture, and their animal husbandry includes rearing poultry, pigs and buffaloes. Lun Bawang people are also well respected hunters and fisherman.

Dancing celebrations

This ethnic group is connected to the Lun Bawang Festival, also known as ‘Irau Aco Lun Bawang’, a festival that was traditionally a celebration of rice harvesting. Modern times have nevertheless modified the festival, and nowadays celebrations include a showcase of a variety of Lun Bawang culture and events.

Irau Aco Lun Bawang is held at Buduk Nur, Ba Kelalan, Lawas. According to Ipoi Datan, President of Sarawak Lun Bawang Association, the festival is an annual event celebrated by the Lun Bawang and conducted to gather family members and relatives. Ipoi Datan, who is also the Director of the Sarawak Museum, said the festival is held to introduce the Lun Bawang culture to the local community as well as abroad.

Celebrations during Lun Bawang

This event used to be held at Lawas Town; however, this year Ba Kelalan has been chosen to host such event as the place offers a rich culture and beautifully preserved flora and fauna, a special place for those who love adventure. Ba Kelalan is known for the production of green apples, rice, for its salt processing and cold weather. It is 180 kilometers from Lawas Town and can only be reached via air transportation, MasWing light planes or four wheels cars.

The 21 home-stays present at Buduk Nur cost around 70 Ringgit per night. Those adventurous enough to sleep in a tent can take advantage of the camping grounds, though you have to bring your own tent as well as sleeping bags since temperature in Ba Kelalan can drop considerably at night.

Official gathering at the start of the activities

During the three days of the event there will be various activities including ‘Ruran Ulung’, or beauty pageant contest, ‘Nguip Suling’ or bamboo musical instrument band, handicraft exhibitions, a traditional food festivals, cultural nights, tours and sports. Several Lun Bawang from Brunei, Sabah and also Kalimantan are expected to join the festival.

Villager in Sabah during Lun Bawang

Reading this article is a good start but it is not enough to be close to the Lun Bawang community, so please visit if you can. Pack your warm clothes and come to Lun Bawang land, where you can really feel the locals’ lifestyle.  I highly guarantee that you will enjoy the trip and the tour.

GETTING THERE

To get there by land, first you have to get to Kota Kinabalu, in Sabah (Malaysian Borneo). After that, take the Kota Kinabalu to Lawas Town bus, which should get you there in about 3 hours. Once in Lawas Town, contract a four wheels car (the ride should cost you around 70 Ringgit per way). For those who prefer flying, MasWing airline (www.maswings.com.my/en) has regular flights there from Miri. For more information on transportation, you can call Miss Evelyn and Mr. Daud at (+60) 85262019. For more information on Lun Bawang people, browse http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lun_Bawang

Read Asian Itinerary news on the Lun Bawan annual beauty pageant and warrior contest on http://asianitinerary.com/lun-bawang-beauty-queen-and-headhunter-warrior/

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Sergio, our writer

The proposal of a friend, a trip on the scorpion-tailed boat, sounds like a good idea and a chance to see Chiang Mai from a different perspective. The atmosphere changes as soon as we arrive at the landing: the slow flow of the river and the warm welcome by the business owner propel us into a new dimension. After a short wait under a pergola where we sneak a peak at old newspaper articles, photos of personalities and vintage images taken along the river, all posted on one of the waiting area walls, we climb aboard the enigmatic scorpion-tailed boat. Just after we set sail, almost opposite the landing, we can see Chiang Mai new town hall, the American Consulate where a stars and stripes flag is waving, and the Khun Nam Tok View temple.

Until the middle of the last century this river – the Ping River – was the largest and main communication route to Bangkok. It was a long journey of a thousand kilometers that lasted two to three months. Those who ventured on that trip were probably gambling the income of their family and those of others for that year. The traditional houses along the river lead us to imagine these shores teeming with life in a not so distant past. Today Chiang Mai is connected to the rest of the country with roads, rail and a modern airport. Nowadays, only a few of these boats used for tours, as well as a reasonable number of fishermen, bring life to these shores.

Mango sticky rice at Khun Samak farm

Our friendly guide, Khun Samak, tells us interesting anecdotes about the river, and shows us last century pictures that present facts, corners and views of the Ping River. Going downstream, we cross the ruins of a pedestrian bridge collapsed during the floods of 2011, and we are shown the spot where the river overflew. We then pass the iron bridge and sail alongside an old site where in the past timber was processed and traded before being shipped to the south. Today, the cutting and marketing of teak has virtually stopped: after centuries of forests exploitation, it is time for Thailand to save and replant its own natural heritage. Khun Samak assures us that the reforestation program is very serious and strict.

Once we arrive at the Kum Phya Dam, a dam that leads the river to a jump of five meters below, the boat makes a u-turn and begins to slowly go up-current. We observe the alternation of natural vegetation with restaurants overlooking the river and modern buildings with elegant apartments that have a view of the city all the way to the hills and down along the river, towards south, towards Bangkok. We also see the home of the last princess of the Lanna Kingdom, who lived there at the beginning of last century and often went traveling around the world financed by her father. Khun Samak shows us a photo of her aboard a side-car, almost wanting to show her as a liberated woman as well as a curious traveler.

Scorpion-flavoured local liqueur

We then come to a landing where, on the shore, a gardener is cleaning up a flower bed, in silence, in complete harmony with the peaceful atmosphere of the river. We are introduced by our guide, who also doubles up as an excellent host, inside a small botanical garden complete of fruit trees, some varieties of local rice and medicinal plants; Khun Samak gives us a comment for each one of these: cooking uses and details on cultivation. A light refreshment of mango and sticky rice topped with coconut milk and a pineapple juice are a pretext to continue to quibble with our guide, who shows us traps for snakes and eels, and other objects of bygone days .

We finally climb back aboard the scorpion-tailed boat, sail backwards for a stretch of the river and return to immerse ourselves in the modern days Chiang Mai.

For further information about cruises on the scorpion-tailed boat, click on http://asianitinerary.com/scorpion-tailed-river-cruise/

To book a tour with Khun Samak:

SCORPION-TAILED RIVER CRUISE

Contact: Hotline 24 hrs.: +66 (08) 1960 9398

http://www.scorpiontailedrivercruise.com – info@scorpiontailed.com

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SCORPION-TAILED RIVER CRUISE

Contact: Hotline 24 hrs.: +66 (08) 1960 9398

http://www.scorpiontailedrivercruise.com – info@scorpiontailed.com

Khun Samak shows us some of the veggies in his farm

A Scorpion-Tailed river cruise is guaranteed to take you back to the history of Chiang Mai and of the Ping River. Scorpion-Tailed boats are traditional-style crafts initially built in the 18th century by a local shipbuilder who got inspired by the shape of a shell that was floating in the river. This shell had a scorpion inside who had his barbed tail holding up, and shipbuilder came up with the first version of the boat by copying this image.

Scorpion-Tailed boats were mainly used as cargo boats at the time, so once the northern railway route connected Chiang Mai with Bangkok, almost a century ago, Scorpion-Tailed boats quickly disappeared. This icon of the past has been revived thanks to the efforts of tourism industry master graduate of Chiang Mai University, Khun Songsri and knowledgeable tour guide Khun Samak. They have achieved to bring back to life the Scorpion-Tailed boat, that can today serve tourists who are interested in knowing some of the history of this great river, or who simply want to take in the atmosphere of times past.

Khun Samak farm

Khun Samak’s concept for the modern Scorpion-Tailed boat took into account several factors, but the most amazing achievement was to make them environmentally-friendly. They have been redesigned to include a benzene engine (the diesel version causes great pollution to the river), they have no toilet on board (to avoid waste going to the waters – you have been warned!), and are much much quieter than other boats. Also, they are super-safe, with the buoyancy compartments in the front keeping Scorpion-Tailed boats nicely afloat.

Khun Samak’s Scorpion-Tailed boat fleet today cruises the Ping River exploring the charm of Chiang Mai along its banks. The heart-centered cruises succeed in getting tourists to experience the atmosphere of the past while learning the river and the town recent history. Khun Samak himself is the tour guide on board, a sweet, knowledgable and funny one! He is a playful gentleman who adds a real educational experience to the cruise, and makes the trip entertaining armed with good jokes, century-old pictures and cute stories related to them.

Scorpion-Tailed river cruise

The cherry on the cake was a half-hour stop at the Scorpion-Tailed boat village. Set in tropical fruits garden by riverside, this little secret garden from Khun Samak is a botanical heaven where I learned so much about local plants and herbs. He also has different qualities of rice planted in small paddies! They then had us all seated and we were served fresh pineapple juice and a delicious dessert of sticky rice with mango, while Khun Samak showed us snakes and eels’ traps from the old times, and challenged us to drink a whisky aging with a scorpion and a snake inside the bottle. We all skipped that!

The entire Scorpion-Tailed boat cruise was a lovely and relaxing experience (a great thanks to the driver too!); I saw Chiang Mai in a very different way, while comfortably sitting and relaxing on a traditional-style vessel. Not to be missed.

WHAT YOU WILL SEE/LEARN

–   historical background of the boat

–   fishing techniques from local fishermen

–   Khun Tok View Nam chedi

–   American Embassy

–   a girdered footbridge between the oldest trading community of Wat Gate and Warorot Market

–   Chiang Mai ‘s oldest shopping center

–   Chang pier, where hundreds of elephants would haul logs from the river in the old days

–   the site of the first city

–   the first bridge

–   the first Christian church

–   the first post office

 INFO

Scorpion-Tailed boat landing is at Wat Sri Khong pier, 200m north to Nakorn Ping Bridge near Rim Ping Condo, on Charoenrat Road, Chiang Mai.

Winner of the Tripadvisor Certificate of Excellence 2013.

Pick up from different areas of town available.

Cruises last between one and a half-hour to two hours.

5 cruises daily: 9am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm, 5pm.

Price per person is 500thb. Minimum booking 2 people. Call 081 9609398.

If you make your way there, beware of imitations and make sure you get to the right landing. Watch out for the Scorpion-Tailed River Cruise banner.

For further information about cruises on the scorpion-tailed boat, click on http://asianitinerary.com/scorpion-tailed-river-cruise/

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A roti vendor desk

If you have been to Thailand, you will be familiar with the roti bread pancake stalls, as you will find them simply everywhere, especially on the islands and in the beach resorts. I for one am quite familiar with them. The Thai pancakes called roti, and served in an array of versions by the roti carts all over the country, are round flat breads made of a dough that is slapped on a metal counter and fried in margarine or clarified butter until it becomes a sort of a crepe. Roti looks straight forward to make, though it may take some practice to get it right.

Rotis are usually cooked by Muslims; some can make them really nice, dry and tasty, the secret seems to be either using little margarine, or rubbing off the oil when the roti is cooked. The metal counter used to cook roti is a heavy piece of sheet steel 2cm thick, and it has a slight depression in the middle to hold the melted butter that the roti is fried in. There are different versions, and you can find one in steel shops in Bangkok’s China town.

A roti vendor

Mmmm, only talking about rotis makes me crave them. I usually return to a good roti stall and try to stick to it, rather than trying different ones. Some vendors make them rather spongecake, others very oily and greasy, the traditional way. I love the banana version and often rave about it. The vendor cuts the banana in slices, lay them over the half cooked dough and folds it over to make a square. Once the roti is properly cooked, they remove it from the pan, cut it in 9 squares and drizzle sweetened condensed milk over its top.

Other versions include coconut, Nutella, egg, cheese, raisins, chicken curry, you name it, and may come topped with chocolate syrup and other sauces available on the cart. It is, finally, eaten with a wooden skewer. Delicious! next time you are in Thailand make sure you eat plenty. If you ever need a recipe, you should be able to find one on the Internet. Roti vendors sell pancakes in many Asian countries, not only in Thailand, so alternatively get to your local roti vendor and ask him!

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THE FACTS

Collection of broken images at Wat Umong

Wat Umong Suan Phutthatham, which translates to ‘Temple of the tunnels and Buddha Dhamma garden’, is more commonly referred to as Wat Umong, and is a 700-year-old Buddhist forest temple located against the mountains of the Suthep range in Chiang Mai. One of the lesser known temples amongst the hundreds of Buddhist temples in Chiang Mai, this unique 14th-century temple is a fascinating and unique one and is indeed worth a visit. The entire Wat Umong complex occupies a tranquil setting and consists of 15 acres of still heavily forested grounds.

THE HISTORY

Wat Umong was founded and built at the end of the 13^th century, more precisely in 1297, by King Mengrai of the Lanna dynasty, first King of the Lanna Kingdom and founder of Chiang Mai. According to a local legend, King Mengrai regularly consulted a monk who lived at Wat Umong, a temple located within the old city walls of Chiang Mai. The resident monk, Thera Chan, meditated in peace and quiet inside a tunnel. When Chiang Mai city grew bigger and more crowded, Thera Chan found it more and more difficult to meditate, so devoted King Mengrai ordered to dig a number of tunnels inside a man-made mound in a forested area outside of the city, at the foothills of Suthep mountain, the current location of modern Wat Umong. The walls that lined theses tunnels were plastered, Buddhist murals were painted on them – unfortunately most of them have disappeared – and eventually shrines with images of the Buddha were added. Thera Chan finally had a new place where to meditate in peace.

A young monk chatting on a smartphone

Wat Umong was abandoned during the 15^th century, only to be restored and reoccupied during the 1940’s, and in 1949 it started functioning as a center for meditation and Buddhist teachings (see paragraph below). This long period of disuse explains its overgrown look and somewhat dilapidated atmosphere. Today Wat Umong is an active temple with a few resident monks, and visitors can finally take advantage of this historical center for Buddhism.

THE ASHOKA PILLAR

The temple grounds are home to a copy of an Ashoka pillar dating back to the founding of the temple in the 13^th century. Back in the 3^rd century BC, the Indian King Ashoka dispatched monks across South and South East Asia to spread Buddhism, and a large number of pillars were erected in the visited countries, inscribed with details about the spread of Buddhism. The Ashoka pillar at Wat Umong is a replica of an Ashoka pillar located in Vaishali; a further replica is stored in a museum in Sarnath, the village where the Buddha told his first sermon.

SCATTERED BUDDHA IMAGES

Ashoka pillar at Wat Umong

The first interesting thing you notice as you walk towards the main tunnel entrance is a curious collection of amazing Buddha heads, religious oddities and other relics scattered on the grounds between the trees. These collection of broken images started when some worshippers rescued some of them from an abandoned temple, and it is now being enriched by devotees who find such relics, or by those who have a broken Buddha to replace.

TREE SIGNS

You will love the ‘talking trees’ along Wat Umong temple grounds that display signs with Buddhist proverbs and words of wisdom both in Thai and in English. Amongst them:

“Love is Devine, lust is devil”

“Today is better then two tomorrows”

“Nothing is permanent. Things go in and go out”

“All things arise, exist and expire”

“The thing that is liked or disliked just appears, exists for a moment and expires”

“Detachment is a way to relax”

One of the several tunnels

THE TUNNELS

The path then leads to the artificial earth mound under which there is an underground tunnel system of criss-crossed passageways. Within the maze-like tunnels are meditation cells and shrines with revered Buddha images where devotees can pay respect to the Enlightened. A legend tells that Thera Chan, the highly regarded resident monk at the time, was slightly mentally deranged and had the habit of wandering off into the bush for days on end. King Mengrai could have had the tunnels built and their walls painted with bush scenes in order to keep the monk from wandering off. Whatever the truth behind these tunnels, they add to the temple’s mysterious air.

THE CHEDI

Both the front and the back of the mound have flights of steps taking up to a large, circular and bell-shaped chedi (stupa) in Lanna style which has recently been restored. This picturesque and imposing chedi is usually draped in orange cloth and was built right on top of the underground tunnels. The front stone staircase has Naga snakes at its lower end and leads to some of the monks’ cells and other out-buildings.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS

A magnificent Buddha statue

There is a library museum containing several books on Buddhism as well as a collection of historic objects and Buddhist art. Opening times are clearly displayed, but the museum may be closed in occasion of special festivities or events.

Near the museum is an interesting display of reproductions of ancient Indian Buddhist stone sculptures and a School of Pali language, and a building hosting incredibly accurate spiritual wall paintings. The monks living quarters, or ‘kuti’, are scattered in the forest.

POND/LAKE

If you have some extra time on hand, then spend it to explore further. Pass the mound and the pagoda, follow the footpath flanked by woods and gardens and you will emerge by a small lake. It is an excellent and peaceful place to relax, spot birds and butterflies and other wildlife. One popular activity is feeding the resident fish, ducks and turtles. You can buy the food from one of the local vendors there. Locals flock to the place at weekends, wandering and sitting by the water.

MEDITATION AND DHAMMA TALKS

Vipassana scripts on stone

The great temple settings, the heavily forested area and the small lake all make Wat Umong the perfect place for meditation. Meditation activities and Buddhist teachings started right after restoration of Wat Umong was completed in 1948, while the Meditation and International Buddhist Education Center opened its doors in 2005 with the objective of spreading theoretical and practical Buddhism amongst both Thais and foreigners.

Wat Umong meditation classes are very popular, and meditators particularly enjoy the peaceful and natural settings of the temple grounds. You can chose between the Vipassana method, based on the foundations of mindfulness, and the Anapanasati method, which concentrates on breathing. Foreigners are more than welcome, however make sure that the sessions are in English too before you join the practice. Information can be had on http://www.dhammathai.org/e/meditation/page23.php

The other great opportunity visitors to Wat Umong have is the chance to have a chat with monks who can speak English. Dhamma talks (also popularly known in Chiang Mai as ‘monk chat’) usually happen in English every Sunday between 3 and 6 pm, when monks gather at the Chinese pavilion near the pond to talk about Buddhism and to answer visitors’ questions. There are also occasional one-off sessions in meditation areas, if you are lucky you may be able to join one.

MY VISIT

One of the tunnels

Wat Umong is one of my favorite temples in Chiang Mai and I visit it every time I am in town. I love particularly the shady temple grounds, the temple peaceful settings and the serene and peaceful atmosphere. Adding to all this the fact that the large temple grounds are often filled with the sounds of monks’ chanting, Wat Umong certainly provides a welcome change as it differs from the much visited sites in Chiang Mai. Wat Umong can be especially magical just after the rainy season has ended, around early October or November: the brick walls of the mound and the stone works are covered with moss, vines and small plants. Overall, Wat Umong is such an interesting spot to visit, a tranquil site to while away some time, and a nice diversion from the bustle of Chiang Mai. A site well worth your trip.

GETTING THERE

Located 2 kilometers West of Chiang Mai city, Wat Umong is off Suthep Road, just outside the city center. It is a bit off the beaten track, and indeed tricky to get to by bicycle, so it is advisable to catch a mean of transport. You can contract a songthaew – a converted pick up truck with two benches in the back; these stop when you raise your hand and flag it down. The trip to Wat Umong will take about 10 to 15 minutes from downtown and it can cost in between 100 and 150 thb per person one way.

If you are driving there yourself with a motorbike, find any map of the town and Wat Umong will be marked there. If you want to treat yourself, hire a private taxi; your hotel can book one for you. The going fare is about 250 thb one way. Wat Umong opens daily from 6 am until 5 pm, and admission is free.

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The interesting initiative of Project Abroad

November sees one the best and most magical festivals Thailand has to offer. Loy Krathong is held every year on the full moon of the 12^th month of the Thai lunar calendar this year falling on November 1^7th. Full moons in Thailand are often associated with the party in Koh Phangnan but in actual fact there is much more to it than a beach rave! Whilst many people are out dancing at a full moon party, the rest of the country will be setting off floating lanterns all over the Kingdom’s rivers and canals.

Teach to foreign how to make a Biodegradable Krathong

Each year Thai folk make a lantern (bowl = Krathong) out of a variety of materials and as they have to float (Loy) on the water this often means that they are made from polystyrene. Those who are more environmentally conscious or who are following the original Thai methods use a thick slice of a banana tree trunk. They are usually adorned with folded leaves, jasmine and other colourful flowers, with candles and incense placed in them, often a coin as well so if you see local kids raiding the floating lanterns this is probably what they are looking for! Each town up and down the country has a contest for the best, most elaborately decorated Krathong and some of these are as big as a truck! If you don’t fancy making one yourself, it’s a bit fiddly and takes the patience of a saint to be honest, you can easily buy one from one of the locals selling them in front of their houses and shops; expect to pay between 50–200 baht depending on the size.

The releasing of these floating mini rafts on the waterways is to offer thanks to the river goddess Phra Mae Khongkha for her life giving liquid and also to ask for good fortune for the coming year. It’s quite ironic that by doing this they are in fact polluting the very water from which they live and depend on. In Bangkok last year more than 1 million Krathongs were collected up and disposed of after the festival. In provinces with less money and resources the rafts are probably not collected at all and are left to sink and inadvertently become fish food. This is why you should only buy one made from degradable products and say no to the plastic ones, however pretty they look! Custom has it that you also place some of your hair and a cutting of your finger nail into the Krathong to let go of any negativity and start the coming year afresh.

Some only use natural material to make them

This day also traditionally sees local beauty pageants held in honor of Khun Noppamas who is said to have been a  lover of a 14^th century Sukhothai king (this being the place from where it’s thought the festival originated) and she is believed to be the first person to float a Krathong. On this day don’t be surprised if you see 4 year old kids wearing more makeup and in fancier dresses than your average group of ladies going for a Saturday night out on the town! In the past it was on this special night of the year that people from all over the province would convene at the nearest river or waterway to catch up and discuss local goings on. This would be a meeting place for young lovers and they would have their future spelled out with the release of their Krathongs, if they floated off together it would be, and still is, a sign of longevity in their relationship.

A foreign girl ready to release her Krathong

If you are in Thailand and want to join in the festivities you should head down to any river after sunset and once the full moon has risen in the sky. If it is a tidal river, people normally wait until the tide has turned and starts to go out, allowing their Krathongs to drift far away and enjoy the good omen this brings. Go anywhere along the waterfront and take part or watch the releasing of the Krathongs with the Thai people. Buy a lantern made with a bamboo frame and rice or mulberry paper which, when the candle is lit and enough hot air is caught inside, will fly off into the sky; these are also believed to be symbolic of letting ones troubles float away. The moon lit sky, full of floating lanterns and the candle lit Krathongs bobbing along the river really is a sight to behold.

This time of year is filled with positivity in the tourist areas as it’s also the start of the high season both in terms of tourist numbers and the end of the monsoon. This is Thailand version of ‘winter’ with temperatures being pleasantly cooler at nights, much less humidity in the air and plenty of glorious sunshine throughout the day.

Happy Loy Krathong! See you down at the river or at the sea.

Photo by Ms. Issara Adisorn

The post FESTIVALS OF THAILAND – LOY KRATHONG appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Vegetarian Festival in Krabi

A devote perform during Vegetarian Festival

Every year on the first day of the ninth lunar month, the streets of Krabi, Trang and Phuket come to life with the festival of Ngan Kin Jeh – otherwise known as the Vegetarian Festival, an event celebrated by the Chinese-Thai community. The title of this gathering is somewhat confusing – food does not provide the central focus, although white-robed devotees attending the event do adhere to a strict vegetarian diet to mark these important days. This practice serves as a spiritual cleansing and merit-making.

Those involved come prepared after six days of abstention from meat, alcohol and sex. The strange ceremonies date back to the mid-19^th century when a travelling Chinese opera company fell gravely ill. Fearing that they had let down their Gods, the actors performed self-mutilatory rites in an effort to cure themselves. It is also celebrated by devout Chinese all over the world, and Phuket’s temples are the most famous venues for this tradition.

On day one gods, spirits and ghosts are petitioned for their mercy and assistance during the following nine days. Various ceremonies are performed in the temples, and processions of white-clad devotees fill the streets. After dark on day six and seven things start to get very strange. Believers gather to fire-walk over glowing charcoal. Of course, there are no burns on the feet to prove their journey. Day seven involves ladders with rungs of sharpened blades. Participants run up and down them, fuelled by a frenzied spiritual fervour. Days eight and nine involve another procession. While the first one was white, this one is red. Several participants show off their spiritual prowess even further by piercing different parts of their bodies with iron needles, measuring up to four metres long.

Drummer during Vegetarian Festival in Krabi

Goddess representation

This spiritual gathering in Krabi Town was a great display of colourful streets, people parading, and several food stalls, and it is marked by ascetic displays described above. During the ceremonies, parade followers dressed in white chanted and lit long lines of firecrackers, turning the whole place into a sort of battleground.

Eventually, some entranced devotees performed the grueling piercing and self-mutilation, pushing steel rods through their cheeks and tongues in a gruesome display.

If you are in Krabi next year, drive along the road Ao Nang to Krabi, where you will come across the Sai Tai Chinese shrine where sacred rituals are usually performed during the Vegetarian Festival. At the temple, a great bamboo pole lighted with several oil lanterns is raised, and the gods are invited to descend from it. Drums are

sounded quite loudly so to keep away evil spirits. Visitors to Krabi with an appetite for action are bound to be sated during this traditional annual event.

A devote during Vegetarian festival

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Woman cooking noodles

Early morning, my heart full of energy, I anticipated the magic of the journey in my dreams. My destination was a Klong and its thriving life blood, the popular Ta-Ling-Chan floating market.

I arrived there on a late morning when the market was already crowded. Sellers displayed their goods on both canal’s sideways. Ta-Ling-Chan mixes traditional lifestyle along the canals with a lush surrounding nature. Half of its traders are local farmers who come to sell their seasonal produce.

Ta-Ling-Chan is different from other floating markets. Here tourists can buy food from the boats and sit and eat it on rafts conveniently floating in the canal. From there, on Sunday mornings, they can watch students from local schools perform traditional Thai music. These students also perform in the nearby gardens on Saturdays at noon and on Sunday afternoons, for the delight of visitors.

Delicious squids

Not far away, near a fountain, guides invited tourists to buy a ticket for a trip along the canal. An officer informed us that they have special tour services on Saturdays and Sundays.

Ta-Ling-Chan floating market originated in 1987 from an idea by Khun Prachum Jareanlap – the then Mayor of Ta-Ling-Chan district. Initially the market was set up to be a trading centre for products and agricultural goods. Afterwards, the Ta-Ling-Chan traders proposed to integrate the selling of handicrafts and goods and created the Ta-Ling-Chan union. This is the way Ta-Ling-Chan floating market has been operating for the past 20 years.

Back to the trip. At first the boat navigated along the riverbanks of Klong Bang Khun Sri canal, today known as Klong Chak Phra, where rows of old Thai-style houses with the odd modern one in between alternated with plots of several uncommon plants. Unlike in the city, there is a feeling of harmony in the collective way people live in the Klong area.

The name of Klong Chak Phra comes from a tradition called Chakphra, held in the past on the 2^nd day of the 12^th lunar month. Boats carrying Buddha relics travelled along canals from Wat Nang Chi temple to the mouth of the Klong Bangkok Noi, then turned right to follow Chao Phraya River, entered Klong Bangkok Yai and returned to Wat Nang Chi temple.

A floating food vendor

The boat then sailed along the main canal passing Wat Koh temple. There, the junction where Klong Mol splits into two canals, Klong Bang Chueak Nang to the south and Klong Bang Noi to the west, creates a river island, hence the name of the temple, Wat Koh (koh in Thai means island). The inside of the temple can feel so quiet thanks to the fact that no vehicle can approach it.

Next destination was Wat Kam Peng, a temple erected during the Ayutthaya period; it boasts stucco stripes in the arches, marvelous windows which were restored during the reign of King Rama III, and magnificent murals still intact.

When the boat turned into a small canal, houses became less frequent and planted gardens predominated. A few moments later, we arrived at an orchid garden where we were given 20 minutes to rest, get refreshed, and of course, to buy orchids. The boat then headed back to the first junction, stopping for a visit to Wat Pak Nam, a place where every living being is considered sacred. We bought some bread and fed the fish, giving alms to living creatures, something usually city people don’t have much chance to do.

The late morning sunlight made the air rise sultrily. We saw children jumping into the water, having fun and waving to greet tourists on boats. Some performed acrobatic jumps. The laughs and smiles from those innocent kids gave us a sort of relief from the hot climate. The boat returned to the original route for a visit to Mae Sam-ang shop, where tourists can buy Khao Laam snacks (glutinous rice roasted in bamboo). We finally got back to Ta-Ling-Chan market, right where my stomach started to growl for hungriness.

After all, a well deserved noodle soup

A moist wind caressed my face; I closed my eyes to take in the nature around me – people, streams, life… I was simply infatuated by the experience, something that would surely stick to my memory for a long time to come.

Getting there

There are several routes to get to this destination. The one I chose starts from Krung Thon Bridge and passes the Southern Bus Terminal, then keeps left into the parallel way and turns left at the first alley; it turns right at the first junction, then goes straight and turns left to a junction where, at the end of the road, you will see the Ta-Ling-Chan floating market – nearby Ta-Ling-Chan District Office.

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