A Journey Through History and Spiritual Reflection

Wat Phra Prathon Chedi Worawihan

Last month, on a serene journey to Suphanburi, my colleague and photographer Pluto and I made an unforgettable stop at Wat Phra Prathon Chedi Worawihan in Nakhon Pathom. This ancient temple, less famous than its towering neighbor, Phra Pathom Chedi, exudes a profound sense of history and spirituality.

Historical Significance

A monk carrying out his duties

Wat Phra Prathon Chedi Worawihan is believed to have been established during the Dvaravati period, around the 6th to 11th centuries, making it one of the oldest religious sites in Thailand. The name “Prathon” is derived from “Phra Thong,” which refers to the golden Buddha image enshrined here. The temple’s chedi, though not as massive as Phra Pathom, holds immense historical value as it represents the early spread of Buddhism in Thailand. Legend has it that the temple was built over the site where a sacred relic was found, adding to its spiritual significance.

A Walk Through Time and Emotion

An aged statue covered in gold leaves

Walking through the temple grounds, I was struck by the peaceful ambiance that seemed to resonate from the ancient bricks and aged statues. The chedi, with its weathered exterior, stands as a silent witness to centuries of devotion and change. As we explored, I felt a deep connection to the past, as if the walls themselves were whispering tales of monks who once walked these paths in search of enlightenment.

A quiet sanctuary

The temple’s tranquil environment invites introspection. The rustling of leaves in the courtyard, the gentle hum of prayers, and the soft glow of candles created a meditative atmosphere. It’s a place where one can’t help but feel a sense of reverence and peace, a quiet sanctuary from the bustling world outside.

Spiritual Reflection

Pluto capturing details at Wat Phra Prathon Chedi Worawihan

As we paused to capture the temple’s essence through Pluto’s lens, I found myself contemplating the impermanence of life, a theme central to Buddhist teachings. The ancient relics and sacred images seemed to echo this sentiment, reminding visitors of the transient nature of existence and the enduring pursuit of spiritual awakening.

In conclusion, a visit to Wat Phra Prathon Chedi Worawihan in Nakhon Pathom is more than just a historical exploration; it’s a spiritual journey that leaves a lasting impression. Whether you are a history enthusiast, a spiritual seeker, or simply a traveler looking for a moment of peace, this temple offers a profound experience that resonates long after you’ve left its sacred grounds.

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Wat Muang, nestled in the historic city of Ayutthaya, Thailand, stands as a testament to the rich cultural heritage and spiritual significance of the region. This ancient temple, dating back to the Ayutthaya period, holds a special place in the hearts of locals and visitors alike.

One of the most striking features of Wat Muang is its magnificent Buddha statue, known as the “Luang Pho To.” This colossal statue, towering at over 92 meters in height, is one of the tallest Buddha images in Thailand. Its sheer size and serene countenance draw pilgrims from far and wide, seeking solace and inspiration in its presence.

Beyond the awe-inspiring statue, Wat Muang exudes a tranquil ambiance, with its well-maintained grounds adorned with lush greenery and intricate architectural details. Visitors can explore the temple complex, marvel at the ornate pagodas, and partake in rituals and ceremonies that have been practiced here for centuries.

But Wat Muang is more than just a place of worship; it serves as a cultural hub where traditions are preserved and celebrated. Throughout the year, the temple hosts festivals and events that showcase Thai art, music, and cuisine, offering visitors a glimpse into the vibrant tapestry of Thai culture.

For those seeking a deeper understanding of Thai spirituality and history, a visit to Wat Muang is an enriching experience not to be missed. It’s a place where the past meets the present, and where the spirit of Thailand‘s heritage continues to thrive.

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Enter the mystical world of Wat Rong Suea Ten – The Blue Temple! Welcome to the impressive realm of Wat Rong Suea Ten, known as the Blue Temple in Chiang Rai, Thailand. This sacred shrine is more than just a structure: it is a harmonious blend of ancient Thai tradition and contemporary art, inviting you on a journey of spiritual and visual discovery. Get ready for an unforgettable odyssey where the divine meets the artistic in a hypnotic dance of color and culture!

As you approach, the striking blue exterior immediately catches your eye. The architectural fusion within the temple walls testifies to the seamless integration of historic Thai design and modern aesthetics. Inside, where every step reveals a canvas of vibrant murals and meticulously crafted sculptures. These artistic expressions tell stories of Buddhism, local folklore, and cultural heritage, creating an atmosphere that transcends the boundaries between the sacred and the aesthetic.

As you explore the spiritual and artistic richness of Wat Rong Suea Ten, remember to fully immerse yourself, letting the captivating beauty and cultural significance leave an indelible mark on your trip. Like, subscribe, and press the notification bell to stay in touch with us, and don’t miss our upcoming adventures around Asia.

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Serene, hypnotic, charming. These three adjectives are true of Laos World Heritage town of Luang Prabang, once the seat of Laotian Kingship – the Lord of Lives.

Luang Prabang has retained for centuries its elegant and renowned architecture, and was once described as ‘the town that time forgot’ and ‘the sleeping beauty’. Its cultural charm and natural beauties add up to a well deserving UNESCO status.

Nestled on the convergence of the Mekong and the Khan rivers, with Phu Si hill and other mountains as a backdrop, and several high-spire temples dotting the town, Luang Prabang may just be another river town but it can easily be mistaken for a painting.

HISTORY

Luang Prabang was once the seat of Tai-Lao kingdoms, and at some point, under the rule of Chai Fah Ngum, the town was called Chiangthong, until the time when a Cambodian king homaged Chai Fah Ngum of a sacred Buddha statue called Pra Bang, prompting the monarch to change its name.

Inhabitants practice the simple and modest ways of Buddhist teachings. But do not be fooled. While not long ago an American newspaper described the confrontation between a dog and a monitor lizard as the most interesting thing in town, things have definitely changed. Cafes, bakeries, tourist offices, small minimarts and guest houses dot the streets and are the symbol of Luang Prabang slow but constant crawl to modernity.

ARCHITECTURE

The Haw Kham Ubosot

The roads along the Mekong and the Khan rivers are lined with a fusion of French colonial and Lao traditional buildings, all giving the town a classic look. This is further confirmed by the myriad of brick venelles: alleys and stairs that link up major roads and houses.

The development of Luang Prabang is being controlled and the town does not look as spoiled and unfettered as some of the Asian heritage centers like Hong Kong, where conservation has not even been taken into consideration.

However, despite efforts like making compulsory the use of traditional bricks that adhere to their specifications and mapping out the town center pedestrian walkways, UNESCO has a hard task to balance the town’s development plans amidst a tourist boom, especially as some of the regulations are not being followed.

SIGHTSEEING

The Haw Kham, or old Royal Palace

The Haw Kham, or old Royal Palace, is located between Phu Si hill and the Mekong river. It was once the residence of King Srisawangwong. The Royal Palace museums displays Luang Prabang’s history and hosts the statue of the sacred Pra Bang Buddha. Wat Mai Suwanphumaran is located west of the Royal Palace; along its outer walls, impressive gold-inlaid paintings depict Buddha’s love for Ramayana stories.

Phra That Phu Si is a golden Lao style stupa located atop of the highest point of Luang Prabang. The flight of 328 steps that lead to Phra That Phu Si is mostly under shady trees, so the climb is not a burden at all. From the top, visitors enjoy breathtaking views of the whole town.

Golden stupa at top of Phra That Phu Si

The most beautiful of Luang Prabang temples, and a must see, has to be the renowned Wat Chiangthong, with an impressive Ubosot (ordination hall) built in the unique Luang Prabang style. Features making this temple unique include the curved shape of its roof, its golden poles, and a a mosaic representing the Tree of Life made of thousands of small pieces of coloured glass.

Luang Prabang is split in two by the Mekong river, and this split also marks the border between the tourist town with its old quarters, waterfalls and handicraft villages, and the area where to see real traditional village life. Catch a boat at the back of the old palace to find yourself in the charm of old Luang Prabang and taste the friendliness of the local people. The river breeze keeps the air cool, while you observe paddy fields, wooden houses, kids crossing streams.

Rural outskirts of Luang Prabang

There are morning markets where locals hailing from hill tribes villages sell their wares, but the most visited market is Luang Prabang night market, open daily from 5pm to about 10pm, where you can find locally woven clothes and fabrics, locally produced drinks, chess games in ornamental stone to silk scarves, passing by embroidery, sculpture, more or less real opium pipes, portrayals of Buddha in all imaginable forms, local paintings. It is of course more and more common nowadays to be faced with Chinese and Vietnamese products, but you can still find a lot of local handmade craftsmanship.

Things were not always like they are today at Luang Prabang night market, with its ever increasing size, with its hundreds of stalls covered with fold-up canvas roofs and lit up with lampshades and bulbs. When it opened in 2002, there was no electricity in town, so craftsmen of the surrounding areas sold their products to tourists using candles to light up their wares!

GET AROUND

A Luang Prabang version of tuk tuk waiting for next ride

The best way to visit relatively small Luang Prabang is perhaps a bicycle ride; rent one in one of the shops in the city center and feel the vibe, visiting popular sights but also taking stops to soak up the atmosphere. Alternatively, hop on a boat for a ride along the Mekong to view the town from the river. Longer boat trips take visitors to waterfalls, limestone cliffs and caves such as Pak Ou.

Luang Prabang is not short of restaurants and accommodation for all budgets, and a stay in one of the refurbished colonial houses is recommended.

Luang Prabang is appealing to say the least, and this keeps visitors coming back for more.

• For bicycle expeditions to Luang Prabang surroundings, click HERE
• For an exciting trek to a great waterfall, click HERE
• To learn about the efforts of a non-profit small International Non-Governmental Organization, click HERE
• Asian Itinerary stayed at Le Vang Bua Villa
• BOOK A ROOM AT Le Vang Bua Villa AT DISCOUNTED RATES HERE

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Woman attends her home bamboo altar

Bali is not merely a paradise island; unlike the rest of predominantly Muslim Indonesia, Bali is an anomaly, a Hindu island that possesses a good dose of animism, the belief that everything, including inanimate objects, contains life. Bali is also an endless festival and a movable feast: with more than 20,000 temples on this island, and with each temple celebrating its birthday every 210 days according to the Balinese Saka and Wuku calendar, something at any moment in time will remind locals and visitors that life is indeed meant to be celebrated. And the most important feast for Balinese Hindus is Galungan.

Penjor posts being made

Don’t expect Galungan to be dramatically different than any normal Balinese festive day (apart from the day of silence, Nyepi), though most agree it is the best time of year to experience celebratory Bali. Galungan celebrations last for 10 days and honour Ida Sang Hyang Widi, the creator of the universe, as well as the spirits of all sainted ancestors, which are believed to visit the earth on this particular day. Balinese are encouraged to express gratitude and hopes for protection to the spirits, and to show their gratitude to the creator, in a festival that symbolises the victory of good (Dharma) over evil (Adharma) – Galungan in fact means “When the Dharma is winning”.

Offerings at the roadside

The root of Galungan is of course the local religion, called Agama Hindu: an amalgam in which gods and demigods are worshiped alongside Buddhist heroes, the spirits of ancestors, and indigenous agricultural deities. This authentic culture created by gracious and adaptable Balinese people, which encompasses lots of unique celebrations, uses modern day mythology to remind people who they are, what they are and how to live a good life in this increasingly changing world.

PREPARATIONS

The intensive preparations for Galungan start several days before the actual feast day.

Preparing palm fronds trays for the offerings

The preparations begin effectively three days before Galungan, on Penyekeban (which means “the day to cover up”). Families store bananas and fruits that will be used as offerings on Galungan day after covering them up in huge pots to speed their ripening. Penyekeban, besides its literal meaning, also has a more important symbolic meaning for the inner world of the individual human being: just like the fruits we cover to have them ripe, so the individual has to ripen in order to be in a position to siege over the selfish desires and actions of the ego.

Small bamboo altars set up to receive offerings

Penyajahan, occurring two days before Galungan, is a time of introspection for Balinese people, as well as time when they bake coloured cakes made of fried rice dough called Jaja, used in offerings and eaten specially on Galungan. In this time of the year, you can find Jaja in every Bali village market.

Penampahan, the day before Galungan, is called slaughter day and it is not for the squeamish people since there is usually lots of blood around. Locals offer animals such as pigs, turtles and livestock to be slaughtered and offered as sacrifices to the gods in the temples or on altars. This ritual suggests that these animals will come back as higher creatures in their next life.

Women carrying fruit offerings piled four feet tall on their heads

Finally the climax of the celebrations, Galungan day, throughout which local temples are crowded with Balinese devotees coming and going, praying at the temples and making the offerings that have been prepared since Penyekeban day. Women can be seen carrying fruit and flower offerings piled four feet tall on their heads, while men bring palm fronds. As you can imagine, Galungan is marked by the sudden surplus of traditional Balinese food around, so do take advantage and sample local delicacies if you are around.

RITUALS OFFERINGS 

A colourful Penjor post

Balinese Hindus perform Galungan rituals that are meant to welcome and entertain the returning spirits, with the house compounds that make up the nucleus of Balinese society coming alive with devotions offered by the families living within. Tall bamboo poles decorated with fruit, coconut leaves and flowers, and called Penjor, are set up on the right of every residence entrance on the island. You will also find small bamboo altars set up especially for Galungan at each gate, each one bearing woven palm-leaf offerings. Offerings to these ancestral spirits are bountiful and include food and flowers; they are also placed throughout a home, at the doorways of local shops, and in rice paddy fields.

NGELAWANG AND BARONG

Ngelawang ceremony involving the Barong

Ngelawang is a ceremony typical performed during Galungan, which includes a dance at the rhythm of the Barong that describes the fight between good and evil – Barong and Rangda. Ngelawang is like an exorcism where the Barong – the divine protector in the form of a mythical beast – is invited into house as he makes his way from village to village and temple to temple. His presence in the house will restore the balance of good and evil, and house residents will pray before the dancing Barong and make an offering of a Canang Sari – a tiny square tray woven out of coconut leaf containing flowers and money. The Barong will finally give them a piece of his fur as a keepsake.

KUNINGAN

The tenth day after Galungan is called Kuningan and marks the end of Galungan celebrations. This is the day when spirits ascend back to heaven, and the day when Balinese visit their kinfolk and closest friends, making special offerings of yellow rice.

__________________________________________

Music in a local temple

Tourists who visit Bali during Galungan get an eyeful of the local colour. The tall bamboo poles called Penjor sway in the wind everywhere you look, richly-dressed women cross streets to make food offerings to the local temple, and all sorts of native dishes being offered by restaurant during Galungan, perhaps the best time to try original Balinese food!

A colourful Penjor post

However it is not all on the positive side: be understanding that the actual festivities are open to Balinese only; be prepared for lots of traffic and to dangerous driving of whole families crammed onto a motorbike; it is advisable for tourists not to dart around Bali during Galungan; it is best to find an area that feels good and to visit a few local villages in that area either by foot or by bicycle. Several places and tourist venues will be closed for Galungan, as their devout Balinese employees will likely be going to their respective villages to celebrate. Holiday-goers from all over are making Galungan plans of their own, so you might want to reserve a hotel in Bali early if you intend to be there during Galungan.

One of the most interesting Galungan celebrations occur in the cultural center of Ubud.

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Asian Itinerary team visited Pha That Luang by bicycle.

There is no doubt the golden Pha That Luang – also known as Great Stupa – is the single most important national monument in Laos, with its symbolic stupa recognisable throughout the world. Pha That Luang was built to cover the original small stupa that was believed to enshrine a breast bone of the Buddha. Officially named Pha Chedi Lokajulamani, which translates to World Precious Sacred Stupa, Pha That Luang has the biggest stupa in Laos and it serves as the main gathering place for national Buddhism ceremonies.

HISTORY

Pha That Luang initial establishment has been suggested to be in the 3rd century. The local legend has it that Ashokan missionaries from the Indian Mauryan Empire sent out by the Indian Emperor Ashoka to spread Buddhism, erected the Hindu stupa to enshrine a sacred relic – a piece of Buddha’s breastbone, a rib to be exact – at the spot where the That Luang currently stands.

One of the temples at Pha That Luang grounds

Pha That Luang ruins were then rebuilt in the 13th century as a Khmer temple. The pride of the city of Vientiane, the temple has since undergone several reconstructions as it was looted and destroyed whenever the city of Vientiane was invaded and plundered by the Burmese, Siamese and Chinese.

In the mid-16th century, after winning a war over the Burmese, King Setthathirath armies were ordered to relocate the Laos capital of Lan Xang Kingdom from Luang Prabang to Vientiane, mainly for strategic reasons. But Vientiane lacked votive places, so King Setthathirath ordered the construction of palaces, temples and monuments, amongst which was Pha That Luang, at the time covered in gold leaves. It was named Pha That Luang after the road where it was located, That Luang, 4 km from the centre of Vientiane.

Buddha statue at Pha That Luang

Dutch East India Company envoy Gerrit van Wuysoff visited Vientiane in 1641 and was received in a magnificent ceremony by King Sourigna Vongsa at Pha That Luang, where he was “impressed by the enormous pyramid, and the top was covered with gold leaves weighing about a thousand pounds”. The Kingdom of Siam invaded Laos in 1828, destroying Pha That Luang and looting it of the gold covering the stupa. Left heavily damaged and without gold, Pha That Luang was eventually left abandoned until in 1900 the French decided to restore the great stupa to its original design based on the detailed drawings from 1867 by French architect and explorer Louis Delaporte. However, the first attempt was not successful, so the French redesigned and reconstructed it in the 1930s. Pha That Luan was heavily damaged during the war of independence of Thailand against France in 1940, and was again reconstructed after the end of World War II.

Pha That Luang has been submitted to the Tentative List of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

ARCHITECTURE

Pha That Luang pagoda from the inside grounds

Pha That Luang architecture is a symbol of Lao nationalism as it includes many references to Lao culture and identity. The 45m-high stupa is surrounded by a high-walled cloister measuring 85m on each side. The cloister tiny windows contains various Buddha images and ancient Laos and Khmer artefacts like statues – many of them badly damaged and in need of restoration -, inscribed steles and other sculpting, including a statue of King Jayavarman VII of the Khmer empire. This cloister reminds us to some extent of the cloister and Hall of Wat Srisaket.

Impressive reclining Buddha at Pha That Luang

Today’s Pha That Luang stupa consists of three levels, each conveying a reflection of part of the Buddhist doctrine. Visitors can stroll through the cloister, contemplate the remains of sculptures and paintings and make offerings at different altars. Access to the different levels is denied. The first level stairs are guarded by Naga snakes. The second level hosts hundreds of Sema boundary stones that mark the sacred area, where there is a double-roof open structure containing a Buddha image and 30 small stupas. Arched gates lead to the third level which contains the 45 meter high stupa (from ground to pinnacle), the upper part of which resembles an elongated lotus bud topped with a multi tiered parasol.

OTHER FEATURES

The statue of King Setthathirat, founder of Pha That Luang

The large gardens and grounds surrounding Pha That Luang comprise gardens, temples, monuments and Wat Neua That Luang palace, with an impressive facade but an uninteresting interior. At the time of visiting, a young monks ordination ceremony was taking place. The statue of King Setthathirat, founder of the monument, is located  on the way to the main entrance, at the small park in the middle of the complex called Saysettha Gardens. Of the four temples constructed around Pha That Luang in the 16^th century, only two remain: Wat That Luang Tai, an open-sala-like building with a three tiered roof, to the South, and Wat That Luang Neua, the temple where the supreme patriarch of Laos Buddhism resides, to the North. All structures in the outdoor complex have free access to public. Monks live and study in the temples in the Pha That Luang vicinity.

EVENTS

A fine mural

Pha That Luang is the scene of the most important Buddhist festival. During Boun That Luang, held during the full moon of the 12^th lunar month, thousands of Buddhist devotees flock to Pha That Luang for three days to pay respect to the golden stupa and to give alms to hundreds of monks. Traditionally, they walk around the That Luang three times, holding incense sticks to pay their respect. Pha That Luan grounds are filled with hundreds of stalls selling food, clothing and various crafts during several days prior Boun That Luang festival, where activities include carnival rides, games and rides for children, musical performances, parades of people wearing traditional costumes playing traditional music, candlelight procession and fireworks.

INFO

Pha That Luang is located in Ban Nongbone, on the outskirts of Vientiane, 4 km North-East of the city centre at the end of Thanon That Luang, and 500 meters East of Patuxai Monument.

Offering incenses at the pagoda

The area around Pha That Luang is gated and there is a large parking area in front of the main entrance. The easiest way to get there is by tuk-tuk; a one-way trip should cost you around 50-60,000 Kip.

Admission to the golden stupa is 5,000 Kip per person. Entrance to the surrounding buildings and temples is free. Best visiting times are in the early morning, when only a few people is around.

Asian Itinerary was kindly accommodated by Ibis Vientiane Nam Phu Hotel during their whole stay in Vientiane.

Read about Ibis Vientiane Nam Phu Hotel HERE

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COME ON TOUR WITH US

Discover the magic of our latest trip! An experience that will take you to enchanting places, blending culture and adventures with our travel branch FANTASIA ASIA – click on the following programs to know more:

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Watch here for our VIDEO on Laos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shuI9Aa_-pQ&t=35s

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Wat Rong Khun main temple and the carps lake

You cannot say that you have seen Chiang Rai without having been to Wat Rong Khun. Commonly known as the White Temple, this is a Buddhist and Hindu temple with a huge structure designed by famed Thai painter and visual artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. Wat Rong Khun is today one of Chiang Rai’s biggest tourist draws, and I had a chance to visit it as part of a Chiang Rai bicycle tour (CLICK HERE TO READ ABOUT THE TOUR). Every day, hundreds of visitors line up to see the main building of this religious complex built just 13 km south of the city center of Chiang Rai.

Chalermchai Kositpipat

Wat Rong Khun unconventional architectural work is inspired by the Expiatori Temple from the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, Spain. The temple is currently under construction, and it can actually be considered a work-in-progress. Its construction began in 1997, and the completion is not expected to happen for another 50-60 years. The project is being funded by donations and by sales of Chalermchai Kositpipat’s gallery prints, as well as by the private funds of Kositpipat, who had a very poor upbringing in his home town of Chiang Rai, but who has now reached a certain level of wealth and has decided to give back to his community. He is rumoured to have already invested 40 millions thb (1 million Euros) of his own money into the project.

Wat Rong Khun main temple

Chalermchai Kositpipat is famous for Buddhist symbolism and for the traditional Hindu modern twist in his art; his works are also known outside of Thailand. Despite being one of the most famous contemporary Thai artists, Ajarn (a title reserved to professors and great masters) Chalermchai Kositpipat has long been criticised for his stylistic choices: the outdoor complex of the white temple is completely made up of white lime and millions of small mirrors embedded in the tiles that make a beautiful light effects. The choice of white, like many others, is dictated by the idea of communicating through important evocative symbols. Asked why he has chosen to make Wat Rong Khun white, Kositpipat replies that gold is “suitable to people who lust for evil deeds” so he wanted this one to be more pure, different from the traditional golden temples. However amazing the white effect is, and no matter how much sense his concept makes, Wat Rong Khun is not always well digested by the local population, accustomed to hundreds of years of bright colours.

sea of ghoulish white supplicant hands pointing upwards

Back to my visit, past a pond populated by white carps, I made it across a bridge that crosses a sea of ghoulish white supplicant hands pointing upwards and reaching from the pits of hell while sinking to the underworld; this bridge dictates the cycle of rebirth and separates a small semicircle that represents the world as we know it, and the temple. It symbolises the road to happiness above the temptation, greed and desire. Two huge white naga snakes accompany the faithful to the inside of the temple; disembodied heads dangle from trees. This symbolism seems to be warning us: leave your anger and greed at the entrance or you will end up in hell.

Chalermchai Kositpipat painting

Inside I was greeted by seraphic Buddha statues sitting in meditation on big lotus flowers, and I paid my respect to them before concentrating on the unusual iconography of the interior walls: not the usual story of the Buddha as depicted in most ordinary temples, but a series of frescos on shades of orange with characters that include Superman, Spiderman, Michael Jackson, an International Space Station, Batman, Angry Birds, Osama Bin Laden, George Bush and even Neo, the chosen one in the Matrix trilogy. These mixing of apocalyptic visions and science fiction is a choice that surely searches for a blend between the West and the East, the ancient and the modern. Unfortunately, photo taking is not permitted inside the the main building of the White Temple, so you have to take my word for it (or visit the temple yourself).

Good luck silver leaf

While I was very puzzled by the interior, where I spent longer time than I had planned, I was really amazed by the crisp white aesthetic of the exterior. Actually, the whole compound revealed endless surprises. The guide took me around each part of the grounds, explaining the symbolism of the artwork and of the sculptures. Around us were statues that seemed carved out of ice, with beautiful topless girls designed following the traditional Hindu canons, surrounded by pretty installations that are proudly displayed in the huge and very well-kept gardens. For a small donation, I wrote our names on a silver leaf and hanged it on the prayer trees present in the garden, joining the over 100,000 leaves already present.

workshop warehouse

The guide then took me to the massive workshop warehouse where I could witness work behind the scenes: sculptures, panels, mirrors being cut and glued to cement wings; several young artists take part of this amazing project, one that will take decades to properly complete. On the outside, a golden pagoda that looks like a temple in itself hosts the toilets.

temple in the making

Wat Rong Khun was badly damaged during the 2014 earthquake and it was closed for a short time until some experts verified the damage and reported that none of the complex structures suffered from extensive damage. At the Chalermchai Kositpipat gallery and shop, you have the chance to purchase one of the several prints or a book on the artist; in this way you will help financing works at this amazing structure that is Wat Rong Khun. Entrance to the White Temple is free, but I heard rumours that they are planning to charge a small fee very soon in order to collect funds for the construction.

Wat Rong Khun wiehing well

Chalermchai Kositpipat believes that this temple, his great tribute to Buddha, will give him immortality. Once, talking about Wat Rong Khun, he stated that “only death can stop my dream, but it will not stop my project!”

I have visited several temples around Asia, and I can easily attest that this is indeed a unique one. Visit it if you have the chance.

Asian Itinerary was kindly sponsored by Laluna Hotel and Resort, read our review on http://asianitinerary.com/laluna-hotel-and-resort/ or BOOK A ROOM BY CLICKING HERE !

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Indonesia is filled with temples that are magical and have mind-blowing architectures. Heading west along the main road to Pemuteran, in the north of Bali, a trio of very interesting temples dating back to the 16th Century is nestled between the mountains and the sea. The temples are located in the Pulaki area and are named Pura Pabean, Pula Pulaki and Pura Melanting. The one I want to tell you about today is called Pura Pabean, also known as Geriya Konco Dewi.

the road sign for Pura Pabean

Pura Pabean is located on hilly grounds bordering the ocean and it overlooks the picturesque coast towards Pemuteran. We were on the way back from a day trip to Bali Barat National Park and I saw the temple seaside parking-lot by chance. I parked the car by some welcoming umbrellas and ceremonial flags, and we started climbing the few steps that led to the temple entrance. The short climb was worth its while for the view over the vast ocean below. Stunning.

Halfway through, the first monkeys came to watch us. They stood still on the iron railing, peeping at us without much interest.

monkey by the steps

At the top, a whole troop of primates played on the ground they looked non-threatening, still we had become quite wary of these animals, which can nick anything not securely attached to you. I advise to leave sunglasses or drink bottles behind.

Sunglasses were not needed, as several menacing clouds were covering the sky, leaving no chance for the sun rays to carve through them. We were apparently the only visitors at the time; inside the temple grounds, we silently marveled at the unusual blend of Balinese and Chinese decorations, with Hinduism and Taoism symbols such as the poisitive Hindu deity Shiva, Confucius, as well as one complex dedicated to Kuan Yin and the Buddha; a great marriage of different cultures often exhibited in Bali temples.

temple compound

There are impressive buildings complete with symmetric structures, art sculptures and unique bas-reliefs. The lush mountains behind, crowned by dark-grey clouds, served as the perfect backdrop. Lotus ponds hosting fish and lotus plants completed the picture. Oh, and the ever-present monkeys of course, escorting us with a hint of curiosity.

A beautifully carved arch welcomed us to a descending stairs that leads down to the beach at the bottom.

carving arch inviting to descend the steps

This is a great way to gain a privileged location from where to take pictures. Down at the beach at the bottom, the vast expanse of the open sea seemed to challenge us. There are large sacred stones arbitrarily piled and huge trees in bloom. Looking up at the temple from this vintage point gave us a good view of the compound.

A later chat with a Balinese local friend provided us with a more complete perspective of Pura Pabean. First of all, my friend stressed how crucial it is to understand the significance and meaning of Balinese temples: most are built either high up on the mountains (symbolizing the good – where sympathetic gods live) or down by the sea (symbolizing the evil – where the demons live).

the view over the west from Pura Pabean

There are two theories about the utility of the temple. Ones suggests that Pura Pabean  served as an entrance check point to Bali for Chinese seafarer merchants carrying a wide range of merchandise to be sold on the island several centuries ago. This has not been historically confirmed and seems to have been brought about by the fact that ‘Pabean’ translated into English means ‘customs’. The other theory states the temple was dedicated to sailors and fishermen departing from Bali, who would come here for their final prayer and to ask for a safe journey.

Pura Pabean is easy to find. It is opposite Pura Pulaki, on the major Singaraja-Gilimanuk road, about 50km from Lovina. A notice at the bottom of the beach steps advises a sarong and a sash are required; we did not need these, yet if you are planning to visit Bali temples, I advise always to carry these items with you. Find location and coordinates on http://wikimapia.org/27501661/Pura-Pabean

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