Serene, hypnotic, charming. These three adjectives are true of Laos World Heritage town of Luang Prabang, once the seat of Laotian Kingship – the Lord of Lives. Luang Prabang has retained for centuries its elegant and renowned architecture, and was once described as ‘the town that time forgot’ and ‘the sleeping beauty’. Its cultural charm and natural beauties add up to a well deserving UNESCO status. Nestled on the convergence of the Mekong and the Khan rivers, with Phu Si hill and other mountains as a backdrop, and several high-spire temples dotting the town, Luang Prabang may just be another river town but it can easily be mistaken for a painting. HISTORY Luang Prabang was once the seat of Tai-Lao kingdoms, and at some point, under the rule of Chai Fah Ngum, the town was called Chiangthong, until the time when a Cambodian king homaged Chai Fah Ngum of a sacred Buddha statue called Pra Bang, prompting the monarch to change its name. Inhabitants practice the simple and modest ways of Buddhist teachings. But do not be fooled. While not long ago an American newspaper described the confrontation between a dog and a monitor lizard as the most interesting thing in town, things have definitely changed. Cafes, bakeries, tourist offices, small minimarts and guest houses dot the streets and are the symbol of Luang Prabang slow but constant crawl to modernity. ARCHITECTURE The roads along the Mekong and the Khan rivers are lined with a fusion of French colonial and Lao traditional buildings, all giving the town a classic look. This is further confirmed by the myriad of brick venelles: alleys and stairs that link up major roads and houses. The development of Luang Prabang is being controlled and the town does not look as spoiled and unfettered as some of the Asian heritage centers like Hong Kong, where conservation has not even been taken into consideration. However, despite efforts like making compulsory the use of traditional bricks that adhere to their specifications and mapping out the town center pedestrian walkways, UNESCO has a hard task to balance the town’s development plans amidst a tourist boom, especially as some of the regulations are not being followed. SIGHTSEEING The Haw Kham, or old Royal Palace, is located between Phu Si hill and the Mekong river. It was once the residence of King Srisawangwong. The Royal Palace museums displays Luang Prabang’s history and hosts the statue of the sacred Pra Bang Buddha. Wat Mai Suwanphumaran is located west of the Royal Palace; along its outer walls, impressive gold-inlaid paintings depict Buddha’s love for Ramayana stories. Phra That Phu Si is a golden Lao style stupa located atop of the highest point of Luang Prabang. The flight of 328 steps that lead to Phra That Phu Si is mostly under shady trees, so the climb is not a burden at all. From the top, visitors enjoy breathtaking views of the whole town. The most beautiful of Luang Prabang temples, and a must see, has to be the renowned Wat Chiangthong, with an impressive Ubosot (ordination hall) built in the unique Luang Prabang style. Features making this temple unique include the curved shape of its roof, its golden poles, and a a mosaic representing the Tree of Life made of thousands of small pieces of coloured glass. Luang Prabang is split in two by the Mekong river, and this split also marks the border between the tourist town with its old quarters, waterfalls and handicraft villages, and the area where to see real traditional village life. Catch a boat at the back of the old palace to find yourself in the charm of old Luang Prabang and taste the friendliness of the local people. The river breeze keeps the air cool, while you observe paddy fields, wooden houses, kids crossing streams. There are morning markets where locals hailing from hill tribes villages sell their wares, but the most visited market is Luang Prabang night market, open daily from 5pm to about 10pm, where you can find locally woven clothes and fabrics, locally produced drinks, chess games in ornamental stone to silk scarves, passing by embroidery, sculpture, more or less real opium pipes, portrayals of Buddha in all imaginable forms, local paintings. It is of course more and more common nowadays to be faced with Chinese and Vietnamese products, but you can still find a lot of local handmade craftsmanship. Things were not always like they are today at Luang Prabang night market, with its ever increasing size, with its hundreds of stalls covered with fold-up canvas roofs and lit up with lampshades and bulbs. When it opened in 2002, there was no electricity in town, so craftsmen of the surrounding areas sold their products to tourists using candles to light up their wares! GET AROUND The best way to visit relatively small Luang Prabang is perhaps a bicycle ride; rent one in one of the shops in the city center and feel the vibe, visiting popular sights but also taking stops to soak up the atmosphere. Alternatively, hop on a boat for a ride along the Mekong to view the town from the river. Longer boat trips take visitors to waterfalls, limestone cliffs and caves such as Pak Ou. Luang Prabang is not short of restaurants and accommodation for all budgets, and a stay in one of the refurbished colonial houses is recommended. Luang Prabang is appealing to say the least, and this keeps visitors coming back for more. For bicycle expeditions to Luang Prabang surroundings, click HERE For an exciting trek to a great waterfall, click HERE To learn about the efforts of a non-profit small International Non-Governmental Organization, click HERE Asian Itinerary stayed at Le Vang Bua Villa BOOK A ROOM AT Le Vang Bua Villa AT DISCOUNTED RATES HERE COME ON TOUR WITH US Discover the magic of our latest trip! An experience that will take you to enchanting places, blending culture and adventures with our travel branch FANTASIA ASIA – click...

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As I find myself here writing about Wat Lok Molee temple after my umpteenth visit to the place, I am more than convinced that it is a really calm, peaceful and simple local temple with a lovely calm atmosphere, one of the best places in Chiang Mai for a re-charge of batteries. Wat Lok Molee may not be Chiang Mai‘s most well known temples. but it looks different than most of the others. The temple grounds only cover a small area, and the temple and buildings are not so richly decorated like other temples, but in a small area Wat Lok Molee manages to convey lots of history, and its architecture is fabulous. The buildings are mainly of plain wood, which quite a change from the usually brightly decorated buildings of most of the other temples. The use of bricks in the stupa is to be attributed to the Angkorian period, when the wat was built. HISTORY Wat Lok Molee origins are somewhat unclear. Its name first appeared in historical documents in 1367, when the sixth Lanna King of the Mengrai Dynasty, King Kuna (1355-1385), sent an invitation to 10 Buddhist monks from Burma, offering them to bring their study, practice and teachings of Theravada Buddhism to his kingdom, taking residence at Wat Lok Molee. Lanna King Chettharat of the Ayudhaya Period had the large brick stupa (or chedi) built in 1527-1528. The main hall (Viharn) was added by Kong Kret (aka Mueangketklao) in 1545. Wat Lok Molee was maintained by the Royal Mengrai Dynasty until the demise of their dynasty, and it is said to house the ashes of several of its members (definitely those of its founders). It was then abandoned and fell into a state of dilapidation during World War 2, and it has recently received a facelift that beautifully restored it to its former glory. VIHARN The first building to your right as you enter the temple complex from the Chiang Mai walls ring-road, is the large meeting hall (Viharn). Though not particularly old, the Viharn boasts a fairly classic design and it was tastefully designed. The plain wooden interior is made of dark wood and is nothing like the usually highly decorated Thai wats. This low key building hosts a beautiful Buddha image, and it is decorated not with the usual gaudy murals, but in some interesting mosaics and reliefs, that adorn the hall’s walls and show the different Buddha positions of the week. Wat Lok Molee is elegant and serene at the same time. Viharn is the Sanskrit and Pali term for Buddhist monastery. Its meaning is “a secluded place in which to walk”, and represented the refuges used by wandering monks during the rainy season. One other uniqueness of Wat Lok Molee is that it is aligned along a north-south axis, while most Buddhist temples are orientated towards the rising sun, towards East. To be noted that the Viharn has seen a a major overhaul in recent times, which contributed to its current beauty. CHEDI Wat Lok Molee is notable for its massive and impressive 490-year-old stupa (chedi), totally built in red bricks and without any cement, is still standing after all this time. The stupa is located at the back of the Viharn, and it enshrines a number of sacred objects. Its bare brickwork is in net contrast to the stuccoed stupas of other temples in Chiang Mai . STATUES The eclectic range of subsidiary statues, images and carving present in various corners of the garden are intriguing to say the least. Wat Lok Molee entry path is flanked by amazing elephant sculptures, as well as by trees with fluttering metal leaves hanging on them: a silver leaved tree inset with gold coins and a gold leaved tree inset with silver coins. There are Chinese-style ceramic lions, a carved-out wood mural where roots from an old tree  wind about hypnotically, and finely sculptured Naga snakes. But the most intriguing of all is the presence of prominent sculptures of a few Hindu Gods: a Ganesha shrine in one corner, a Brahma that manages to combine aspects of Shiva, and the multi-armed (this particular representation has twenty four arms, and hands bearing objects which symbolize the attaining of merit) mother of all deities Maha-Chundi, wearing an ornate crown with an image of the Buddha. ODDITIES A visit to a Thai temple is not complete if one doesn’t spend time poking around in corners, peeking behind things. It is there you usually find interesting items. At the rear of the main hall, a small building houses a small massage area and an aluminium workshop, where craftsmen painstakingly hammer away at slabs of metal, creating a new door to the main Viharn. Their massive relief pieces are so precise, no wonder some may take up to a whole year to complete. Besides the main office are parked two gorgeous antique Mercedes cars which are there to be shown, for some reason I am still not aware of. EPILOGUE I often see visitors whizzing into the parking area with a bike or a car, take a quick detour, a peep at the Buddha, shoot a few pictures and leave. Wat Lok Molee deserves more than that, and it is well worth a decent visit, considering it is an old site of significant importance, and that it is not the same as other temples in the area, On top of that, its surroundings are serene, the main hall is a nice refuge from the sometimes very hot sun, and is is not clogged with tourists. Best pictures are taken in the morning or early afternoon, when the light is the best for photos. Visitors should not be shy to make conversation with the temple monks. I found them of extremely good manner, they are open to assist you in any way they can, and appreciate the English conversation which help them improve their language skills. GETTING THERE Wat Lok Molee is easy to access as it is...

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