This is the account of a journey that Percorsi di Viaggio has recently made. Let me tell you that this has been a highly exciting and very photogenic journey, a journey mid-way between natural and ethnic, one that led us to visit an unknown number of local villages inhabited by tribes almost all originating from China. All this in a fascinating and varied setting made of hills of different aspect: some covered by luxuriant woods and inhabited by various species of wild animals including bears, deers and tigers; others stripped of vegetation due to the fires started by farmers to re-fertilize the fields, but not for this less suggestive.

The authors on board ready to leave – photo by Issara Adisorn

We visited Northern Laos in a journey that took us from the border with Thailand, near the province of Chiang Rai, up to Vientiane. Part of the journey was along what for years was considered the main communication route of this country, the Mekong River, which crosses Laos almost along its entire length, marking the border with Thailand for many kilometres, until it flows inside Cambodia. From there, it will continue its journey up to its mouth, in part along winding roads, sometimes dirt tracks and often roads full of holes, roads that climb and then descend on the sides of the country’s highest hills.

Breathtaking landscapes, at times even dramatic routes whose end was almost impossible to imagine, with hairpin bends, some uphill and some downhill, constantly traveled by trucks that, trudging along, move goods to and from China, to and from Vietnam. Along these, we saw poor but dignified villages spring up from time to time, rich in their own history, culture and traditions. Villages where, accompanied by Phonsi, our skilled guide, we were allowed to visit houses, villages where water is a common good and everyone has to go and get it from the fountains that arise in one or more parts of the village.

Local fishing boats – photo by Guglielmo Zanchi

A life where inhabitants are forced to steal inches from the land for their crops which, sometimes, do not develop on terraces but vertically. Other ‘suspended people’ who nevertheless do not hesitate to welcome you with a sincere smile that fills your heart, but also makes you realise how privileged we are.

It all started at dawn on that first day of travel when we crossed the border to embark on a traditional boat that would take us over the course of a day to our first stop: Pakbeng.

A comfortable and spacious boat, a dozen traveling companions, a guide, Deng, also very helpful, and below us the Mekong, a vast, yellow, muddy liquid which flowed in our same direction, at times placid, at times more impetuous, at times agitated by the rapids.

A herd of water buffaloes in the wild – photo by Guglielmo Zanchi

During the first stretch, the river marks the border between Laos and Thailand representing, if not really a land, a ‘nobody’s water’, which is really a water for everyone, where fishing boats move casually from one to the other side as if a border didn’t exist at all. Laos and Thailand are countries linked by a solid friendship, and military garrisons to protect the border along both banks of the river are not perceived as needed here.

With my eyes I follow the route of our boat, which, based on emerging and non-emerging rocks and on the depth of the river, sails alternating one bank of the river and the other in a sort of ping pong match. It is as if, in spite of ourselves, on the one hand we did not want to distance ourselves from where we came from, and on the other hand Laos wants to appear unreachable. And perhaps, metaphorically speaking, it is a little unreachable.

Children of the Khamu tribe – Photo by Guglielmo Zanchi

It is with a touch of melancholy that I think about my friend Corrado, who loved crossing borders on foot to stay, for a few seconds, with one foot already in one country and one foot still in the other.  I realise that I am experiencing a similar situation, perhaps less solid and a little more liquid. He also loved the Mekong, Corrado, to the point of mentioning it in the title of his first novel: ‘Father Mekong’.

With its approximately 4880 kilometres, the Mekong is the seventh longest river in the world and the fourth longest in Asia. It has its source in China and its mouth in the South China Sea, the large and grandiose Mekong Delta in Vietnam, and its waters touch Burma, Laos, Thailand and Cambodia.

The view of the river from my room – photo by Guglielmo Zanchi

In Laos, the Mekong is particularly important and cannot be considered only as a waterway, as it represents the lifeblood of the country’s economy and of the people who live along its banks. It provides a source of food, water and transportation, it represents an important source of hydroelectric energy, as well as an ecosystem that supports a diverse range of plants and animal species. It is therefore obvious that many cities and villages depend on this river.

This is the case, for example, of the village of Karg Lare, our only stop along the way, which stands on the left bank of the Mekong and it is inhabited by members of the Khamu ethnic group. It is a relatively recent settlement created by government-sponsored migration from mountainous areas, where inhabitants were more exposed to disease, where the level of hygiene was very poor and, for logistic reasons, access to education was minimal. In their original settlement, the inhabitants dedicated themselves to hunting and smoking opium; in the new village, as well as having greater access to water resources, they have spaces used as schools and can enjoy the support of shipping companies on the Mekong which in turn bring visitors.

Portrait of a girl from the Khamu ethnic group – photo by Guglielmo Zanchi

The village can be reached from the river bank by climbing an improbable stairway. It is located high enough not to be reached by the floods during rainy season, and it is made up of wooden or bamboo houses built on stilts. While crossing it, you meet many children, some of whom take care of others even smaller than them; there are poultry, piglets and adult inhabitants, some of whom, now accustomed to foreigners, socialise with them thanks also to the help of the guide, while others look at you with such a curious gaze that you almost wonder if you are the attraction for them and not the other way around. Then the faces light up with that disarming smile that restores the right roles and brings you back to normal.

We reach Pakbeng after about 8 hours on a cruise interspersed with a visit to the village and with lunch on board, a very simple buffet of Lao food.

The rest of the time passes between rock formations which break up the monotony of the river landscape, herds of water buffaloes in the wild who drink along the banks of the river, fishermen who cast their nets from the shore or from above boats so small that I fail to understand how they manage to keep themselves in balance. Time also flows among the inevitable children who dive into the river, fully dressed or completely naked, but still carefree; kids who do not  let a single boat pass without shouting their greetings.  And to complete the scenery of this humanity that lives along the river, the gold seekers appear completely unexpected: men and women who lean into the water with a sieve in their hands, seeking their fortune in the form of precious yellow stones.

Emerging rocks that break up the monotony of the landscape – photo by Guglielmo Zanchi

And finally we arrive in sight of Pakbeng. Defining it a village is as simplistic as it is excessive to define it a town. But beyond the size, this place that has seen its growth precisely as a function of the cruises on the Mekong gives you a sense of peace from the moment of disembarkation that will be accentuated with the silences before the evening, and those of the night. Silences that not even the peaceful flow of the Mekong seems to want to disturb, much less a dawn where the sun, appearing in the back side of our room (which is windowless), seems to want to enter our lives discreetly. Tiptoeing.

Only the trumpeting of the elephants, if you’re lucky, could interrupt the quietness, bringing you back to a reality which, although not the usual one, wants to remind you that the rest of the world is around you.

A glimpse of life on the Mekong – by Guglielmo Zanchi

In front of the resort, on the other bank of the great river, there is an elephant sanctuary dedicated to the care of these pachyderms which used to be ‘a million’; their population is today reduced to about 800 throughout the country. The Mekong Elephant Park is home to just under a dozen of them, including a recently born cub, and has set itself the goal of raising public awareness of the situation of elephants in Laos, whose survival is seriously threatened with extinction. The other main purpose is to provide support to recovered animals, protecting them from the abuses of the logging and tourism industry, and returning them to a life as elephants, letting them live in peace as such.

With a little luck, at dawn, the elephants come down to the river bank to quench their thirst. The best way to start our day is to admire them from the comfort of our terrace, without causing them the slightest disturbance, before getting back in the car for another stretch of our journey in Laos.

COME ON TOUR WITH US

Discover the magic of our latest trip! An experience that will take you to enchanting places, blending culture and adventures with our travel branch FANTASIA ASIA – click on the following programs to know more:

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Watch here for our VIDEO on Laos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shuI9Aa_-pQ&t=35s

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Map pf Sarawak

Lun Bawang Festival is a tradition of the Lun Bawang, one of the ethnic groups that can be found in the central-northern region of Sarawak called Lawas. Lun Bawang are categorized in Sarawak as Orang Ulu; apart from Sarawak, this ethnic groups can be found in other locations of Borneo such as Brunei, Sabah and West Kalimantan, Indonesia. It is for this reason they tend to get different names: Lun Dayeh or Lun Daye, Lun Lod, Lun Baa’ or Lun Tana Luun.

During ancient times, this ethnic group practices traditional agriculture, and their animal husbandry includes rearing poultry, pigs and buffaloes. Lun Bawang people are also well respected hunters and fisherman.

Dancing celebrations

This ethnic group is connected to the Lun Bawang Festival, also known as ‘Irau Aco Lun Bawang’, a festival that was traditionally a celebration of rice harvesting. Modern times have nevertheless modified the festival, and nowadays celebrations include a showcase of a variety of Lun Bawang culture and events.

Irau Aco Lun Bawang is held at Buduk Nur, Ba Kelalan, Lawas. According to Ipoi Datan, President of Sarawak Lun Bawang Association, the festival is an annual event celebrated by the Lun Bawang and conducted to gather family members and relatives. Ipoi Datan, who is also the Director of the Sarawak Museum, said the festival is held to introduce the Lun Bawang culture to the local community as well as abroad.

Celebrations during Lun Bawang

This event used to be held at Lawas Town; however, this year Ba Kelalan has been chosen to host such event as the place offers a rich culture and beautifully preserved flora and fauna, a special place for those who love adventure. Ba Kelalan is known for the production of green apples, rice, for its salt processing and cold weather. It is 180 kilometers from Lawas Town and can only be reached via air transportation, MasWing light planes or four wheels cars.

The 21 home-stays present at Buduk Nur cost around 70 Ringgit per night. Those adventurous enough to sleep in a tent can take advantage of the camping grounds, though you have to bring your own tent as well as sleeping bags since temperature in Ba Kelalan can drop considerably at night.

Official gathering at the start of the activities

During the three days of the event there will be various activities including ‘Ruran Ulung’, or beauty pageant contest, ‘Nguip Suling’ or bamboo musical instrument band, handicraft exhibitions, a traditional food festivals, cultural nights, tours and sports. Several Lun Bawang from Brunei, Sabah and also Kalimantan are expected to join the festival.

Villager in Sabah during Lun Bawang

Reading this article is a good start but it is not enough to be close to the Lun Bawang community, so please visit if you can. Pack your warm clothes and come to Lun Bawang land, where you can really feel the locals’ lifestyle.  I highly guarantee that you will enjoy the trip and the tour.

GETTING THERE

To get there by land, first you have to get to Kota Kinabalu, in Sabah (Malaysian Borneo). After that, take the Kota Kinabalu to Lawas Town bus, which should get you there in about 3 hours. Once in Lawas Town, contract a four wheels car (the ride should cost you around 70 Ringgit per way). For those who prefer flying, MasWing airline (www.maswings.com.my/en) has regular flights there from Miri. For more information on transportation, you can call Miss Evelyn and Mr. Daud at (+60) 85262019. For more information on Lun Bawang people, browse http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lun_Bawang

Read Asian Itinerary news on the Lun Bawan annual beauty pageant and warrior contest on http://asianitinerary.com/lun-bawang-beauty-queen-and-headhunter-warrior/

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A boat captain

The people of Krabi represent a mix of different races from different regions. It is often said that each group of people represent a different page in the history of Krabi. The Chao Ley or “Sea Gypsy” people reside on several of the islands in Krabi’s Andaman waters, and traditionally made their living from nomadic fishing and diving. Their small communities are in danger of overexposure to tourism, and inevitable assimilation, however some of their traditional ways are presented in the yearly sea gypsy sailing ritual held in May on Koh Lanta and Koh Jam. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Southern Chinese people flocked to Thailand in search of work and many made their way to the south of the country to work in the local mining industry. Despite the assimilation of Chinese people and their descendants with local people over time, many retain vestiges of their Chinese heritage. Many still speak Chinese, have Chinese (and Thai) names, and observe Chinese rituals and religious beliefs. Krabi Town has a very dominating Chinese population who loudly brings in the new Chinese year. Most gold shops are run by persons of more pure Chinese heritage. Being in close proximity to Malaysia, southern Thailand is also home to many Muslim communities, and Krabi itself has a strong Muslim presence.

A Muslim batik painter

There is a bit of segregation in place, the Muslim community have their own restaurants, schools, and now even banks. Muslims are about a 3rd of the population in Krabi Town, but they are the majority in all of Krabi smaller villages, including Ao Nang and the Koh Phi Phi island. Krabi Muslims have been acquiring enormous wealth due to the sky rocketing prices of seaside lands. Ironic you would say, given that they occupy the seaside because it was once considered inferior property due to the low fertility of the soils.

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Bidayuh is the second largest ethnic group in Sarawak after the Iban. The number of Bidayuh population in Sarawak is around 200000 people. Bidayuh people can be usually found in Sarawak and in West Kalimantan. Yet, like any other ethnic groups in Malhttps://asianitinerary.com/category/malaysia/aysia, the Bidayuh people also have their own culture. If an Iban popular feature is the tattoo, Bidayuh are well known for the use of bangles.

Back in 2009, during my first semester at the University Malaysia Sarawak (UNIMAS), my friend and I decided to do a research on the Bidayuh people and on their unique culture. In September that year, we planned a three-days trip to Kampung Semban, the last Bidayuh village where folk cultural habits are still observed to some extent.

Kampong Semban is located in the Padawan area, 3000 feet above sea level. Our journey began by car from my house, and proceeded towards the foot of the hills. The only way to reach Kampong Semban is still on foot (helicopter is an option too). Our walk started at 9am; there where three of us: my friend, I and our guide, a missionary named Ps. Noit. During the hike, we passed by several hamlets where we met local villagers.

The road was rough and the walk tough, especially challenging for those who are not used to hiking, and for those like us who carry lots of food supply. Along the first part of the journey, we faced rain, treacherously high hills and even had to cross an unstable bamboo bridge. After an hour of walking, we reached the village of Kampong Taba Said, where we stopped to take a rest and eat.

We then continued our journey, aware that to reach our destination we would have to pass two more villages, namely Kampong Bejong and Kampong Rejoi. It was only after over six and half hour of walking that we reached the top of the mountain, where Kampong Semban village is situated.

Kampong Semban is an extremely beautiful village, the only one situated in this mountainous area. Clouds are everywhere, especially after it has rained. The air was fresh, and the water at the waterfall was incredibly clean. From the village, the clear 360 degrees views of the whole area were amazing. Our bed for the night was provided by one of the villagers, who was Ps. Noit’s friend. We were so tired from the effort that we fell asleep right after food.

The following day we started our research on the symbolic use of bangles amongst the Bidayuh people. We managed to meet two local women who still wore bangles: 84 years old Anu Anak Gaek, and Peluk Anak Abeh. According to Anu, she had been wearing bangles in her arm and legs since she was 10 years old. Peluk said she was 5 years old when she started using them. They explained about the practice of wearing bangles amongst the Bidayuh community, a custom passed from generation to generation.

The bangles are made from copper and worn only by the Bidayuh women; they can usually be found for sale in Kuching town stores. The bangles they used in their arms and forearms are called Luyang while those in the legs are called Lasung.

It was so much interesting and mesmerizing, hearing about the symbolic and practical use of bangles by the Bidayuh community: they were believed to protect people in times of war with other ethnic groups; they were used as a body accessory during ancient times; they are worn during harvest festivals like Gawai Dayak, where women dance showing off colourful bangles that give off a nice sound when shaken by movement.

Learning that the custom of wearing bangles was disappearing amongst the Bidayuh people at Kampong Semban was disappointing. Anu admitted that modern times and technology drive away the younger generations, who moreover are reluctant to use bangles as they find them uncomfortable and painful, especially at the beginning. She also said that as the use of bangles is of animistic origins, this custom is now being banned by the Catholic Church.

We left the village the following day, contemplating the results of our short research, which were not so promising. We learned that due to the construction of the Bengoh Dam, villagers would have to move to a new location. We also found out that at the time there were only 5 people left in the village who still used bangles, all aged 50 or above. Definitely not good signs for the future of bangles, apparently a dying tradition.

Despite these findings, we returned fully excited from the trip, and with plenty of unforgettable memories from the trek and from Kampong Semban village and villagers. I fully recommend the place, especially to hikers and nature lovers.

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