On our recent car journey around Bali, my 6-year-old son, Leonardo, and I spent time exploring the tranquil Pemuteran area. We were lucky to be based at the remarkable Sumberkima Hill Retreat, which offered more than just a breathtaking place to stay; it introduced us to a cause that deeply resonated with us: Metamorfosa. Metamorfosa is a local NGO with a focus on environmental restoration and community empowerment. Founded to address the damaging impact of illegal logging and deforestation, the organisation works on afforestation, reef restoration, and mangrove rehabilitation around the Sumberkima Bay area. They also aim to engage and support local communities by providing sustainable job opportunities that protect, rather than exploit, Bali’s natural resources. Their reef restoration projects are particularly fascinating; they use innovative, eco-friendly techniques to encourage coral growth, helping rebuild the local marine ecosystem. You can read more about their mission and efforts here. Sumberkima Hill collaborated with Metamorfosa to arrange a short kayaking tour for us through the bay, offering a chance to see their impact firsthand. Leonardo and I jumped at the opportunity, and our guide—a true expert—led us through a peaceful yet adventurous exploration of the area. We started our journey at low tide, gliding over the shallow sea in Sumberkima Bay, where the clear water allowed us to see the sandy seabed and glimpses of sea life: huge starfish, kelp forests, corals and sea urchins. Our first destination was a small tropical island in the bay, Gili Putih , and though the paddling required some effort, the reward was well worth it. Along the way, we stopped at a floating fish farm, where Leonardo was thrilled to walk on the platforms and observe the fish swimming in the nets. Once we arrived at the island, we took a break on the quiet, sandy shores, surrounded by clear, warm water and lush greenery. Leonardo had a chance to explore, gathering shells and small rocks as keepsakes from our adventure. After resting, we made our way back, soaking up the views and the sun. As we paddled, we passed thick mangrove forests, their roots dipping into the water and forming a natural barrier against erosion and storm surges. Our guide explained how the mangroves play a crucial role in maintaining the ecosystem, providing habitats for fish and absorbing carbon dioxide. The day was as much an educational journey as an adventure, leaving both of us inspired by Metamorfosa’s work and the pristine beauty of the natural environment. Leonardo and I returned to Sumberkima Hill feeling grateful for the experience and eager to support the organisation’s conservation efforts in any way we can. For families visiting Bali who are keen to learn about local ecology and support sustainable tourism, this experience in Sumberkima Bay is a must!

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Our stay at Sumberkima Hill Retreat in the northwestern part of Bali, part of our driving tour of the island, was an unforgettable experience filled with nature, relaxation, and exploration. This tranquil escape, perched on a hill overlooking the Bali Sea in the Pemuteran area, provided breathtaking views of the volcanoes of Java and the rolling mountains of North West Bali, with every villa offering a unique perspective. It was the perfect place for my son Leonardo and me to unwind and enjoy the northern side of Bali. The first thing that caught Leonardo‘s attention was the infinity pool just outside our spacious three-floor villa. The villa itself was a marvel—constructed with abundant wood, airy, and boasting a fantastic view. Leonardo took full advantage of the pool, swimming at every opportunity and revelling in the freedom and serenity of the space. His excitement each day showed how kid-friendly the retreat was, blending luxury with comfort and fun for younger visitors. While the villa was a personal highlight, Sumberkima Hill Retreat’s two restaurants, Suma, specialising in Indonesian and Balinese cuisine, and Senja, offering a blend of Western and Asian dishes, were equally memorable. Both restaurants are within walking distance from the reception and offer sweeping views. One overlooks the majestic Java volcanoes, and the other offers vistas of Sumberkima Bay. These dining experiences felt intimate and well-crafted, with delicious food enhanced by the backdrop of nature. The retreat is known for its focus on organic farming, providing fresh, natural ingredients in their dishes. Every bite was a taste of the land, with vegetables, fruits, and herbs grown in the retreat’s own garden, following a farm-to-table philosophy. As we explored the retreat, we appreciated the dedication the owners have towards sustainability and community collaboration. They have worked alongside local villagers on initiatives like reef restoration projects, reforestation, and developing a local economy that thrives together with the retreat. This holistic approach, which integrates tourism with environmental and social sustainability, is inspiring. Leonardo, being a curious and lively boy, enjoyed talking with the staff, who were exceptionally friendly and attentive. Their warmth added a familial touch to our stay, making it easy for him to feel comfortable and at home. The staff’s ability to engage with children and make them feel special is an attribute that truly sets Sumberkima Hill Retreat apart as a family-friendly destination. Besides the villa and the food, there are plenty of activities to engage in, particularly for nature lovers. The retreat is situated near Menjangan Island and Bali Barat National Park, providing easy access to hiking, bird watching, and snorkeling. There are also trails in the nearby hills, offering panoramic views and an opportunity to experience untouched villages and Balinese culture. The retreat’s unique approach to villa design adds to its charm. From traditional joglo-style homes to minimalist box villas, each has been crafted to blend with the natural environment. This thoughtful integration with nature, coupled with their passion for organic living, from making their own kombucha and ginger beer to baking fresh sourdough bread, contributes to the peaceful, wholesome ambiance of Sumberkima Hill Retreat. Our stay was an immersive experience—one where we enjoyed luxury and comfort while feeling deeply connected to the nature and culture around us. If you’re looking for a place in Bali that offers stunning views, serenity, and sustainability, Sumberkima Hill Retreat is a must-visit, especially for families. Sumberkima Hill Retreat Email: sumberkimahill@gmail.com Location: https://maps.app.goo.gl/NKnNM4vapdGuxcf1A FB: https://www.facebook.com/sumberkimahill/ Echo Bali Car Rental AsianItinerary drove around the island of Bali with a reliable car provided by Echo Bali Car Rental in Jalan Pantai Sentosa No 4,Canggu, Seminyak, Bali – You can contact Mr. Wayan Suyadnya – Tel: +62 87860131999  /  +62 85100151909 – FACEBOOK https://www.facebook.com/echobalicarrental – MAP: https://maps.app.goo.gl/m5fEDoZx8BSGfF3q7 – EMAIL: info@echobalicarrental.com

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The drive downhill was a steep and nice affair of winding roads through local farming villages, until housing got denser and denser and I finally reached the town of Singaraja, the ancient capital of Bali in Dutch colonial times. The weather was hot and sticky, what a change from the freshness of the Bali mountains. From there, it was only a 15 minutes drive towards the tourist area of Lovina, where I checked in at the Lata Lama – a magnificent boutique resort located in the middle of the rice fields, a collection of 3 Java joglo houses with pool with 1, 2 and 3 bedrooms respectively, hidden away from the hustle and bustle of Lovina tourist scene and the traffic of the main road. I must say I really enjoyed my time there, I felt like a colonial attache’ relaxing and contemplating life in the tropics. For this reason I decided to just take it easy, put some order to my notes, do some writing and enjoy a couple of days at leisure. In the evening, after a great meal at Lovina’s vegetarian restaurant Akar Cafe’ vegetarian & vegan food – Jalan Pantai Binaria, 081936644190 – I booked one of the most popular activities in Lovina: a boat trip to watch dolphins. The morning alarm clock rung at 4am, and it was quite hard to get out of my comfortable bed, but dolphins awaited so I made my way to the beach, where our pick up boat was scheduled to arrive at 5. What a magnificent trip that was, read all about it HERE ! In the afternoon I took a drive along several of the small roads that take to the Singaraja hills and mountains, I visited Banjar Hot Springs and took a detour to a Buddhist Temple not far from the springs. On the way back, I had a great meal at one of the colourful and picturesque road stalls that dot Seririt town main street each evening. Needless to say, the menu is meat meat meat, with goat being one of the favourite food served. The morning after, I struggled through a big and earthy breakfast of muesli granola and natural yogurt, croissants butter and jam, boiled eggs and fruit, after which I said goodbye to my host Seger and his lovely staff at Lata Lama and drove west towards Bali Barat National Park. I passed the tourist coastal village of Pemuteran, with its restaurants and diving shops, and reached Labuan Lalang Pier, the starting points for the boat trips to Menjangan Island – about 30-40 US$ for a boat for 10-12 people, or about 8-10 US$ if you come alone and wait for a boat to fill up, guide is included. There I parked the car, refilled with a Bali coffee at one of the local joints, and joined one of the few boats that take the cruise to and around Menjangan, the island of deers. Back from the boat trip, I drove back east and made a quick stop at the Pura Pabean temple, in time to enjoy the sunset and also deal with insolent monkeys that came out to meet and greet me. I then continued to a fantastic peninsular area called Ume Anyar, where I spent the night at a Mayo Resort, a great resort with good character, and right on the beach. The pizza at their signature Bora Bora Restaurant was nice and crispy, the way Italians like it! TO BE CONTINUED… STAY TUNED ! A drive around Bali – Part 1 – the south A drive around Bali – Part 2 – Ubud, hills and mountains A drive around Bali – Part 3 – Bedugul lake and valley A drive around Bali – Part 4 – scenic Munduk A drive around Bali – Part 6 – the West coast The Toyota Agya was kindly supplied by Echo Bali Car Rental

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Indonesia is filled with temples that are magical and have mind-blowing architectures. Heading west along the main road to Pemuteran, in the north of Bali, a trio of very interesting temples dating back to the 16th Century is nestled between the mountains and the sea. The temples are located in the Pulaki area and are named Pura Pabean, Pula Pulaki and Pura Melanting. The one I want to tell you about today is called Pura Pabean, also known as Geriya Konco Dewi. Pura Pabean is located on hilly grounds bordering the ocean and it overlooks the picturesque coast towards Pemuteran. We were on the way back from a day trip to Bali Barat National Park and I saw the temple seaside parking-lot by chance. I parked the car by some welcoming umbrellas and ceremonial flags, and we started climbing the few steps that led to the temple entrance. The short climb was worth its while for the view over the vast ocean below. Stunning. Halfway through, the first monkeys came to watch us. They stood still on the iron railing, peeping at us without much interest. At the top, a whole troop of primates played on the ground they looked non-threatening, still we had become quite wary of these animals, which can nick anything not securely attached to you. I advise to leave sunglasses or drink bottles behind. Sunglasses were not needed, as several menacing clouds were covering the sky, leaving no chance for the sun rays to carve through them. We were apparently the only visitors at the time; inside the temple grounds, we silently marveled at the unusual blend of Balinese and Chinese decorations, with Hinduism and Taoism symbols such as the poisitive Hindu deity Shiva, Confucius, as well as one complex dedicated to Kuan Yin and the Buddha; a great marriage of different cultures often exhibited in Bali temples. There are impressive buildings complete with symmetric structures, art sculptures and unique bas-reliefs. The lush mountains behind, crowned by dark-grey clouds, served as the perfect backdrop. Lotus ponds hosting fish and lotus plants completed the picture. Oh, and the ever-present monkeys of course, escorting us with a hint of curiosity. A beautifully carved arch welcomed us to a descending stairs that leads down to the beach at the bottom. This is a great way to gain a privileged location from where to take pictures. Down at the beach at the bottom, the vast expanse of the open sea seemed to challenge us. There are large sacred stones arbitrarily piled and huge trees in bloom. Looking up at the temple from this vintage point gave us a good view of the compound. A later chat with a Balinese local friend provided us with a more complete perspective of Pura Pabean. First of all, my friend stressed how crucial it is to understand the significance and meaning of Balinese temples: most are built either high up on the mountains (symbolizing the good – where sympathetic gods live) or down by the sea (symbolizing the evil – where the demons live). There are two theories about the utility of the temple. Ones suggests that Pura Pabean  served as an entrance check point to Bali for Chinese seafarer merchants carrying a wide range of merchandise to be sold on the island several centuries ago. This has not been historically confirmed and seems to have been brought about by the fact that ‘Pabean’ translated into English means ‘customs’. The other theory states the temple was dedicated to sailors and fishermen departing from Bali, who would come here for their final prayer and to ask for a safe journey. Pura Pabean is easy to find. It is opposite Pura Pulaki, on the major Singaraja-Gilimanuk road, about 50km from Lovina. A notice at the bottom of the beach steps advises a sarong and a sash are required; we did not need these, yet if you are planning to visit Bali temples, I advise always to carry these items with you. Find location and coordinates on http://wikimapia.org/27501661/Pura-Pabean

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