Brunei is not a country that reveals itself at once. You understand this as you cross the long Sultan Haji Omar Ali Saifuddien Bridge — a ribbon of asphalt suspended between mangroves and sky — linking the nation’s main territory to the Temburong enclave, isolated within Malaysian land.
It’s an hour’s ride in a silent, almost ritual minivan. Outside the window, the jungle drifts by like a dense, impenetrable wall. Inside, Margelyn — known as Margy — speaks softly, her Filipino accent and gentle smile radiating the calm of someone at peace with herself. She knows the road well. Next to her, the driver steers carefully. They seem like family — and perhaps they are. For years, they’ve been guiding small groups of visitors into the heart of Ulu Temburong National Park, one of Southeast Asia’s most pristine corners.

Ulu Temburong is often called the green lung of Borneo. It covers about 40 percent of the Temburong area and has been protected since the 1990s. The Bruneian government has preserved it with remarkable discipline: no paved roads, no industrial development, no extraction. Only scientific research, controlled tourism, and respect.
Over 150 species of mammals, 300 species of birds, and thousands of plants — some still unclassified — live here. But you don’t need to know all that to feel small. You only need to step into the rainforest.

This commitment to preservation is not just national but part of a wider regional effort. In 2007, Brunei, Malaysia, and Indonesia signed a historic agreement known as the Heart of Borneo initiative, also supported by organizations such as WWF. Its goal is to protect one of the largest remaining tropical rainforests on Earth — more than 220,000 square kilometers — through cross-border cooperation in protected area management, combating illegal logging, and fostering sustainable practices among local communities.
Ulu Temburong is a cornerstone of this project: a tangible example of how a small nation can play a major role in safeguarding the planet’s natural heritage. Here, the jungle is not just a place to visit, but a living system — one that breathes thanks to a deliberate political choice: to place nature at the center, not at the margins.

Our starting point is a small jetty on the Tutong River. A wooden boat with an outboard engine awaits us. Onboard is Mira, barely nineteen, a local guide with a light step and steady gaze, her patience glowing in her calm demeanor. It’s clear this is not her first time leading tourists. The ease with which she moves, her spontaneous smile, and her graceful gestures all reveal how much she loves her work. Her enthusiasm has the freshness of youth but the confidence of someone who already knows exactly what to do.

The boat takes us to a base camp, a simple structure with open-air tables and a covered kitchen. This is Sumbiling Eco Village, a small settlement run in harmony with the forest, where thatched and wooden huts blend seamlessly into the landscape. It’s not a resort — more a functional resting place designed to welcome visitors respectfully within the natural environment.
Meals are served outdoors, sitting on wooden benches while the sound of the river hums in the background. The atmosphere is sober, authentic, and stripped of excess — a return to essentials, where every detail invites you to live in tune with nature.

We eat something quick, without asking much. The important thing is to continue. Soon we set off again, gliding upriver through a narrower stretch, between protruding stones and small rapids that our boatman navigates with skill.
The boat slows and slides toward the riverbank. It touches the muddy ground, and we prepare to disembark, one at a time, with that subtle hesitation born of unsteady footing. With the river behind us and the forest ahead, we face an uneven stone staircase — an entrance of sorts, inviting us to begin our trek.

DCIM100GOPROGOPR7613.JPG

The first obstacle is a suspension bridge, made of wooden planks and ropes. It sways slightly — a challenge for anyone afraid of heights, like me. But we cross it slowly, one step at a time. On the other side, the forest reclaims its dominion. The trees soar — some over sixty meters high. Vines hang like curtains, broad leaves cast shade even at noon. The air is humid and dense, but pure. There is no scent of decay — only wet earth, resin, life.

Mira tells us the names of the plants: dahan, used for building canoes; nipah, the palm with broad leaves used for roofing; rattan, a strong vine prized for handicrafts. She speaks of animals — the colugo, a flying mammal akin to a bat; the Bornean red-headed parrot; the gibbon, whose cries echo at dawn. But today we see none.
The jungle knows how to keep its secrets.

I decide to stop at a wooden shelter — a rest spot with two stone benches, where peace is broken only by the hum of insects and a faint whisper of wind in the leaves. Alice and Mira continue ahead until they reach a sturdy metal tower, climbing up to the canopy walkway — a bridge suspended thirty meters above the ground, threading between treetops. Later, they’ll tell me that from up there, the forest looks like an endless green sea.
I remain below, content to listen to the forest’s music, to breathe in that scent of damp leaves, and to feel — thanks to my fear of heights — part of something ancient.

On the way back, the boat stops by a muddy bank along the Tutong River, where a small stream winds its way into the forest. We wade in with our feet submerged, brushing past roots, stepping over stones, and feeling the wide leaves graze our shoulders. The air cools. The main river’s murmur fades, replaced by the gurgle of water running between rocks.
After a few minutes, we reach a small waterfall, hidden among the dense vegetation. As it falls, it forms a circular pool surrounded by smooth stones and moss — an intimate, almost secret place.
This is what they call the jungle spa: tiny fish, drawn to the dead cells of our skin, swim toward our feet immersed in the cool water. The tickling is intense — almost unbearable — but it makes us laugh. It’s a light, playful moment that might seem at odds with the forest’s solemnity. Yet it belongs to the same balance — nature that nourishes, heals, and connects.

We return to base camp, sip a coffee, and board the boat back to our starting point. Margy is waiting with the minivan. No one speaks much. We’re tired, but satisfied. We’ve walked little more than three hours — but crossed worlds.
Ulu Temburong is not an extreme adventure. It’s an immersion — a place where time slows down, where the noise of the world fades, and where you can feel the heartbeat of the earth beneath the trees. It doesn’t need to shout its beauty. It simply exists. And that, in an age of excess, is already a miracle.

As the Sultan Haji Omar Ali Saifuddien Bridge flashes beneath us once more — this time in reverse — the driver, perhaps to break the quiet of the journey, turns to me and asks,
“Mr. Zanchi, what do you think of Brunei?”
“Brunei reminds me of Cinderella,” I reply…
But that is a story for another chapter.

Photos by Guglielmo Zanchi (Pluto)

For more eco-travel inspiration in Brunei, visit https://www.bruneitourism.com/ 

Watch FantasiaAsia video here: https://youtu.be/VVQYIPWxky4?si=Zu696BGGZhvztIEP

The post Ulu Temburong Forest: the Green Heart of Brunei appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Welcome to Fantasia Asia Channel! Today, we embark on an awe-inspiring adventure deep into the heart of nature at TharnBoke Khoranee National Park. Nestled in the province of Krabi, Thailand, this hidden gem promises a tapestry of stunning landscapes, from cascading waterfalls to mysterious caves. Join US as we explore the enchanting beauty and discover the secrets that make TharnBoke Khoranee National Park a true natural wonder. Don’t forget to hit that like button, and subscribe for more travel content. And now, let’s dive into this visual feast together!

Read Asian Itinerary article on  TharnBoke Khoranee National Park HERE: https://asianitinerary.com/tharnboke-koranee-a-high-quality-trip-for-real-nature-lovers/ 

The post THARNBOKE KORANEE’s Waterfalls and Caves appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

After 3 days of glorious sun, today thick low clouds dominate the sky, threatening rain. I am off to visit some of the attractions to be found in the not so much visited Ao Luk district. Our Thai guide Khun Ying is a smiley and enthusiastic young lady who speaks fluent English. The minibus driver sets off to pick up our fellow travelers, and soon we are on the way for what is branded “a high quality trip for real nature lovers”. Tharnboke Koranee National Park is an hour drive away from Krabi or Ao Nang. During the journey, the heavens open and the rain falls thick; this will not prevent us from enjoying our day out. From the wet windows we observe how the van passes mountains entirely covered by lush vegetation and surmounted by limestone rock formations, the Krabi ‘karsts’.

The lotus-shaped lake after which the park is named

Located between Krabi and Phang Nga regions, Tharnboke Koranee, established as a National Park in 1998 by the then Prime Minister, also borders the Andaman Sea and covers a total area of 104 square kilometers, of which only 40 are in the terrestrial zone. Once at teh park, we start our walk along a concrete narrow path, crossing some wooden bridges or short trails that take to the most incredible spots.

The park is home to an outstanding flora, with trees of impressive heights that grow alongside limestone rock walls modeled by time and erosion that practically surround the whole area. It is a relatively small national park, yet it impresses with its lush tropical foliage, the endless number of waterfalls and streams through which emerald-green water flow fast and copiously, and some small natural pools ideal for a swim – perhaps not today, we all agree. Most of the small pools come from a large lotus-shaped lake after which the park is named: the Sa Than Bok Khoranee, which flows through a wind passage in the tall cliff. Swimming can be dangerous in most of the pools as the water swirls in the strong currents and can easily take you down. Several notice boards reminds you constantly about this.

Buddha footprint at Tharnboke Koranee National Park

Our guide continuously engages in conversations to keep us entertained. It is a perfect day to visit the park: in the shade, the palette of a dozen variations of greens and browns is unforgettable. The placid noise of the water accompanies us at all time, and my eyes are a hungry camera capturing images at every spot: here a gigantic butterfly the colors of autumn, there a big spider with yellow and red spots all over its body – its web flexes but does not break under the pressure of my fingers. Small water spiders glide and jump carelessly in the few pools where the water is calm. I urge to walk every path, climb every rock, and I am often left behind but quickly regain my way. It is impossible to get lost; every path directs you to the way out in a circular system with several variations. There is a well-shaded camping ground where Thai students can spend the weekend and learn about the natural features of the park.

Now a warm breeze contrasts the few drops of cool rain falling on us, while the guide talks about the park, the flora, and the fact that the Royal Family plays an important part in the conservation of the Krabi’s endemic Lady’s Slipper Orchid. All trees have botanical names, both in Thai and English; species include the Wild Gardenia, the Asoka and the Apocynaceae. Along the main path, we stop to visit San Tho Chong–Tho Yuan, a colorful and sacred Chinese shrine inside a wooden pagoda, complete with several flags and flowers wrapped around porcelain tigers, copper candle holders and a central wide incense holder in which some sticks are burning. According to the guide, being at such close contact with reproducing nature, this temple has the power of giving fertility to people and it is visited by women who wish to get pregnant: they offer food, chicken, fruit and various fizzy drinks to the Tho Chong–Tho Yuan entity, making their wish.

Flower garlands offerings for the sacred Hermit

Further down the path, a cemented staircase takes us to Tam Roi Phraphuthabaht Chamrong, where we find a one-meter long 40cm wide footprint of the Buddha beautifully crafted out of copper; all around it are floral offers and candle holders. Inside a crack in the rock, a narrow passageway 50cm wide and takes to a well-concealed Buddha stone statue. Above us, the crack extends to a height of around 15 meters; rays of light penetrate from the ceiling to strike the statue and reveal its beauty.

We finally make our way back to the visitors center. A strong wind now howls through the gigantic rocks, hitting the trees and swaying their huge leaves. Roots of the most eerie shapes emerge from everywhere; some have managed to crack the cement of the path and stand there, victoriously. Tharnboke Koranee National Park is definitely the perfect place for real nature lovers.

Watch Fantasia Asia video on Tharnboke Koranee National Park HERE!

The post Tharnboke Koranee: a high quality trip for real nature lovers appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Huay To Waterfall

Huay To waterfall, with its five-tiered cascades and pools, is by far Khao Phanom Bencha national park’s most visited site, especially by Thais on weekends and public holiday when it may be difficult to find a place to sit. Located only 25 km due north out of Krabi Town, the waterfall is also attracting significant numbers of foreign tourists. The 200 bath park entrance fee has not deterred the hundreds of foreigners who arrive here each day of the high season, half on organized tours and half by rented motorbikes.

Huay To Waterfall has been the location for a number of Hollywood movies filmed in Krabi over the past decade, most of which were commercial failures, through no fault of the location. It is a short walk to the cataracts from the parking area near the park entrance gate, but it is a lovely walk. Huge emergent trees tower 40 meters above the lush cool green of the surrounding forest. Together with the soothing sounds of songbirds and cicadas, the trail comes as a welcome respite from having traveled through the monotony of so much oil and rubber plantation to get there. A footbridge crosses the creek just before reaching the first of five tiers of plunging water and it provides the first good vantage point to see the falls. It is possible to sunbathe on a little sandy beach at the base of crystal clear pools and watch butterflies rise on the updrafts. The sand here is the same color and texture as that surrounding the Krabi River mouth, for this is the very headwaters of that river system.

The waterfall

There are two other waterfalls of note in the park, both of which are truly beautiful to behold in the rainy season when they are at full force. Huay Sakae waterfall is close to the park headquarters, accessed along a little used trail. This is also the best trail for anyone seriously wanting to climb to Khao Phanom Bencha’s 1,350 meter summit – an endeavor that is not for the casual hiker or faint-hearted. Only about 20 people per year traverse the park by climbing to the summit and descending down the other side. A national park guide (at the nominal fee of 500 baht per day) is required to accompany parties (which can not exceed seven people) for this two to three day trek. For a true nature lover it is well worth the effort, however, as one observes the transition from dry evergreen forest to cloud forest, and sees ground orchids unique in the world, ample wildlife signs and vistas of Krabi province which cannot be surpassed. The other bonus of traversing the park is to descend the mountain past the third significant waterfall, Yod Maphrao. There is, of course, a much easier way to reach this falls from the village of Baan Ton Haa, but finding one’s way to the back side of the mountain by unmarked dirt roads, and finding the trail to the falls, will likely require a Thai guide.

The post Huay To Waterfall – Krabi appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

I looked into Suma’s eyes, searching for a sign of recognition. Could this large and limber orangutan and I share a history? Are we somehow related? I had to know.

In September 2011, Michael Ingram and I flew from Pekanbaru to Medan, North Sumatra. Our mission was to entertain ourselves while our wives did important work on improving the education of expat children of the Human species. Michael and I were on our way to the Gunung Leuser National Park to spend some time with the Sumatran Orangutan.

The park is almost completely within the borders of North Sumatra, but it extends into Aceh province in the north and touches into West Sumatra province in the south. The rough landing at the Polonia International Airport in Medan made me wonder about the advances in technology that can send humans into space. Why is it we still cannot bring an aircraft to a ‘jet smooth’ landing? The luggage collection room at Medan could be described as frantic chaos. Somehow we struggled through the crowd to grab our bags off the carousel. As we emerged through the airport exit gate we were met by Pak Effendi, who would be our tour guide. Effendi’s job was to entertain and inform us on the three-hour drive from Medan to Bukit Lawang, a village that borders the national park.

Mr. Norm, the author

Effendi gave us a little history of the orangutans. I had not realized that there are only two orangutan species in the world – the Bornean Orangutan (Pongo Pygmaeus), and the Sumatran Orangutan (Pongo Abelii). In fact, the English word ‘orangutan’ is really a Bahasa Indonesia contraction of ‘orang’ and ‘hutan’, meaning ‘people of the forest’. The Orangutan is one of the Great Apes, a member of the Hominidae Family. This family also includes three African apes, the Gorilla, the Common Chimpanzee, and the Pygmy Chimpanzee or Bonobo. They tell us that we humans are also proud members of this family.

Effendi also took advantage of the controversial research that asserts that the genetic make-up of the greater apes is 98% identical to that of humans. He informed us that orangutans are capable of speech, but choose not to speak. He smiled and said: “They know that if they ever speak, the government will put them to work”. The Sumatran Orangutan is a highly endangered species. In 1973 two Swiss zoologists, Regina Frey and Monica Boerner, established a Rehabilitation Center at Bukit Lawang to save the Sumatran Orangutan. The program was designed to return captive orangutans to the rain forest.

When we reached Bukit Lawang, we walked across a suspension bridge, over the Bohorok River, to the Echo Lodge. The lodge is rustic and the grounds are beautifully gardened. It is an idyllic setting with the calming sound of the rushing waters of the Bohorok River. We checked into our rooms and met with Silo who would be our trail guide the next morning.

Setting off at 8 am, we were surprised that Effendi was joining us on the hike. Effendi smokes like a palm oil plantation, and has a bad leg from a motorcycle accident. But he was game. Silo, Effendi, Michael and I passed through a small rubber tree plantation that separated the lodge from the national park. Our first wildlife encounter was with a Thomas Leaf monkey. Silo stuck pieces of banana on a tree branch and the Thomas Leaf came over to help himself, eating one at a time as he climbed up the branch. We continued on the trail for another half hour before Silo spotted Suma, a female orangutan, who was lounging in a nest that she built in the branches of a tree. She was a fair distance from us and was pretty relaxed in the nest. Silo called to her and waved a banana. He even called her by name. But Suma did not move until Silo lifted a banana bunch over his head to lure her in.

I was surprised that Silo was feeding these primates in the forest, especially since Suma had been a captive orangutan that was reintroduced to the forest through the rehabilitation program. Since the Indonesian government took over the Bohorok Rehabilitation Center in 1980, the focus has changed from serving the orangutan, to serving tourism. No new orangutans have been admitted to the center since 1996. Despite this unfortunate turn of events, the current work at Bukit Lawang does educate tourists and locals about the plight of the orangutan, and it does give us an opportunity to have a magical moment with this magnificent primate in her natural environment.

As Suma slowly raised herself from her comfortable position in her nest, we could see a baby orangutan hanging onto her. Suma was 15 months old, Silo told us. Suma, with baby hanging on, moved up into the canopy of the forest and, out of our sight, swung through the trees until she was above us on the opposite side of the trail. Slowly she descended, gripping the tree trunks, the branches and the vines with all four hands. Silo says that orangutans have no feet, only four hands. Nearer ground level, but still above us, Suma realized the bananas were on the other side of the trail.

It was interesting to watch her problem solving. She grabbed a loose vine with one hand, steadying herself with her other hands on stronger branches, and began to swing her body across the gap above the trail. Her goal was to reach a thin tree trunk on the other side. That accomplished, she easily moved through the trees to her banana bunch prize. She shared the bananas with her baby and hung around to entertain us for some time after that. We stayed with Suma for about half an hour. Other tourists came along and enjoyed watching Suma allow the baby to climb on her own, never far from mother’s watchful eye.

When we left Suma, Silo began a long descent on a trail less traveled. I should mention that Michael has 20 inches of titanium from mid-shin to mid-thigh of his left leg. The result of high school baseball injury, this restricts the range of motion in this leg such that climbing stairs is a challenge. I reminded Michael that we were the paying customers and encouraged him to opt for the ‘Chicken Trail’. Effendi had told us that there are three choices of trails in the forest, the chicken trail, the family trail and the rigorous hike. We had made it quite clear to Effendi that the chicken trail sounded just fine. When we reached the creek bed at the bottom of the trail, I looked across at the impending ascent. Turning to Silo I said with incredulity: “You know Michael has a bad leg, right?”  Silo calmly responded: “Yes, it’s all right. We’ll go slowly”. Knowing there was no real option at this point, I shook my head and trudged on. At the top of the ascent we stopped for a welcome rest and a fruit snack – oranges, rambutan and, of course, bananas.

After our break we continued on the trail, and came upon a group of Long-tailed Macaque monkeys. As we stopped to enjoy the macaques, Silo spotted the second mother orangutan. This was Pesek – the name meaning flat nose in Bahasa Indonesia. Pesek’s baby was three years old. In contrast to Suma, Pesek allowed her baby a wide range of independence. She was no longer carrying the baby, but training him or her to survive in the forest. It was the baby that responded to Silo’s invitation to have a banana. A cheeky macaque challenged Pesek junior, but the young orangutan grabbed the banana prize and backed off quickly. This encounter included a bit of verbal aggression between the competing primates. Pesek moved quickly within range to protect her baby if necessary. Pesek and her baby were not so interested in hanging around and entertaining the tourists. When they drifted back into the forest we moved on and descended on another trail down to the Bohorok River. We passed the rehabilitation feeding station on the trail just before noon. The feeding times are early morning and late afternoon. Silo informed us that Suma and Pesek may choose to show up for a feeding if they happen to be in the area, but they are not dependent on the feedings.

When we got to the river, I stripped down to prepare for the white water rafting back to the lodge. As I took off my wool socks, a long skinny leech was dancing on my ankle. I didn’t need my salt to pluck it off and toss him into the bush. I waded into the river, but the flow was too fast to swim. So I just sat in shallow water for a cool down. Michael also came into the chilly mountain stream and we sat on warm rocks with our feet in the water to enjoy Silo’s offering of nasi goreng – fried rice. One of the best meals ever, Michael and I agreed! Strange what a rigorous four-hour hike does for your appetite.

The raft man from the village arrived with four large inner tubes. While we ate, he tied them together to make on long raft for the five of us. The rapids were fairly intense but at no point were we in danger of overturning. Nevertheless, the spray of the river water was chilling! It was a great way to finish our adventure. It is comforting to know that at this time, the rain forest in Gunung Leuser National Park has a large number of Sumatran Orangutans. They estimate that there are 9,000 orangutans in the rain forests of Sumatra. Tourism causes the trail guides to indulge in some unnatural behaviors that seem contradictory to reintroducing the apes to the wild. Still it is a thrill to see semi-wild and, if you are lucky, even wild orangutans in their native habitat. It was a very special adventure.

To know more, check http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gunung_Leuser_National_Park  or http://www.orangutans-sos.org/visit_sumatra

The post Hanging Out with the Orangutans in Medan appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Doi Luang Chiang Dao is the third highest mountain in Thailand after Doi Inthanon and Doi Pa Hom Pok. It is well-known amongst Thai and foreign tourists who travel there yearly to challenge its peak, an exercise to cultivate one’s body and mind.

November is the beginning of the misty winter season in Northern Thailand, when the magic of its colorfully dense jungle attracts travelers from all corners of the country, and the world. The mountain areas of Thailand are home to ancient people and legends and can be visited during different months of the year for the purpose of ‘winning the mountains’, a traditional challenge for the Lanna People.

Doi Luang Chiang Dao, located in the Chiang Dao District of Chiang Mai, is a 2.225 meters high limestone mountain and comes under the Wild Animals Protection Area. It is one of Thailand‘s many wonders, a complex ensemble of mountain peaks that are an important water source to the local people and home to rare and endemic flora and fauna. Thanks to the area’s fertile forest, Doi Luang Chiang Dao has more than 1.700 different species of fauna, including 160 varieties of mammals, 78 kinds of  reptiles, 105 kinds of butterflies, 203 kinds of birds and 36 kinds of fish. 50 million years ago this area was covered by the sea. Sediments started to deposit on the sea floor; they piled up and compressed to eventually emerge from the sea as mountains.

Local Lanna people who live in the Doi Luang Chiang Dao area inherit their customs and beliefs from their ancestors, passed on from generation to the other; these beliefs form the core values of their life today. Lanna people believe that Doi Luang Chiang Dao is the sanctuary of Gods that protects them, and a ceremony is held every year as a mark of respect to the mountain divinities.

Rules for visitors to the Doi Luang Chiang Dao Wild Animals Protection Area are strict. The first requirement is registration, where you will be asked to list all items you take into the park (including potential garbage such as water bottles and carrier bags) and pay a deposit which will be returned once you exit the park and have brought back all that you took in with you. You leave only your lightest footprints in this delicate ecosystem.

Lighting fires or singing songs might disturb the local fauna and are forbidden activities inside the park. Only a maximum of 200 visitors are allowed in a day. You can take advantage of the 3 camping areas in Doi Luang Chiang Dao for longer stays in the park.

For those of you who love challenges and support ecotourism, tackling Doi Luang Chiang Dao Mountain will reward you with spectacular flora and the rare animals you will encounter. Allow Doi Luang Chiang Dao to regale you with some unforgettable travel memories, the Lanna way.

HOW TO GET THERE

To reach Doi Luang Chiang Dao from Chiang Mai, take highway 107 to Chiang Dao District, turn left at km 76, and go straight for 5 km to the Chiang Dao Cave. From there, a minibus will take you to the Ranger Station. Distance from Chiang Mai is 77 km. The hike to Doi Luang Chiang Dao summit should take about 5 hours.

The post Doi Luang Chiang Dao appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Amazing miracles of nature

For travelers wishing to explore the wonders of nature in Southern Thailand, National Parks provide the best resources to achieve this goal. High-end, middle-range or a budget holiday, Koh Lanta embraces all kinds of travelers, at any time, any season. If you are in Koh Lanta, paradise is where you are now.

Blessed with an amazing wealth of flora, fauna, reefs and pristine beaches, the Krabi region makes appreciation of its natural beauty easy via the showcasing of its National Parks. These designated national parks offer the perfect opportunity to see nature as it was intended; they were established to conserve natural resources for future generationKoh Lanta National Parks and for educational and recreational purposes. After World War II, the population of Thailand increased rapidly and this boom led to an increase in the demand for natural resources. The purpose of Thailand’s National parks is to preserve natural resources for the education and recreation of the public. National Parks are a living showcase of natural treasures, and managing a National Park is a balancing act between conservation and the economy. Put simply, it is eco tourism.

A cliff within Mu Koh Lanta National Park

At the southern part of Koh Lanta Yai sits Mu Koh Lanta National Park, Thailand’s 62^nd National Park. Established in 1990, according to the order of Mr. Chuan Leekpai, Prime Minister and supporter of the Wild Animal and Plant Foundation of Thailand (www.warthai.org), it covers an area of 134 square kilometres, or 83,750 Rais. Unprecedented views, white sandy beaches and boat trips are three main reasons to drop by Mu Koh Lanta National Park. It is great destination for trekking and animal spotting, for a picnic, day-trip swimming, a one-hour jungle trek, or just to sit and chill out. Maybe even just to breathe.

The route to the National Park is a tad dusty and bumpy to say the least. A normal city-car will have a hard time climbing up and down the mountainous dirt passage, but more recently the last three kilometres have been paved. Many still choose to visit on motorbike, but it does take a little experience, especially in the wetter months. With an immense variety of tropical evergreen to mixed deciduous forests, the trip is enhanced by a richness of flowering trees and plants all providing endless botanical discoveries. Arriving at the designated parking area you are greeted by an imposing rock formation that is guarded by its overseeing lighthouse. The headquarters of the National Park are located here. This lighthouse itself overlooks two small bays, with the southernmost one Ta Nod Beach, being one of Lanta’s prettiest gems.

Mu Koh Lanta National Park beach

Ta Nod Beach is said to be the last piece of paradise on Koh Lanta Yai, and is actually a cape. Thais call it ‘Laem Tanod’ – ‘laem’ being cape in Thai. This wonderful beach is delightful and tranquil, protected as it was on our day there from the nor-westerly winds, by the lighthouse cape. Ta Nod Beach is usually un-crowded as not many people have the time or the enthusiasm to come to this place and when they do, they don’t stay all day. As picturesque as Ta Nod beach is, you should take some time to climb up to the Lighthouse via the designated track, to see the views from the top that can prove to be far more striking, exquisite and dramatic. From the high cliffs you will see turquoise water from a birds-eye view, the neighbouring Koh Ngai, Koh Rok Nok and Koh Rok Nai. Once up, you’ll get a better panoramic view of the park. Here you will realize that Koh Lanta offers the best of both worlds with exotic beaches and tropical forest.

The spacious open parkland comes complete with an array of shaded picnic tables, large Thai salas and some of the cleanest toilets you will ever find in Thailand. It is of a triangular shape, with one tip protruding into the sea and has prominent sugar palms on it, while the other side has high cliffs covered with the monsoon forest. The contrast to the beach at your left and right is also evident, with many rocky tidal pools on the northern side for observing numerous marine-lives at low tide. For the more energetic bush walking trails also criss-cross the park.

For our group it was a day of fun and relaxation and one that is highly recommended for inclusion in your discovery of the island of Koh Lanta, one of Thailand’s best-kept secrets. Whether it is chilling out at a quiet retreat or full-throttle action that visitors are looking for, Koh Lanta has something for everyone.

FACT-FILE

Activities: Beach, Camping, Nature trail study. Bungalow accommodation is available. Camping in the Mu Koh Lanta National Park is allowed but you must notify the park in advance at N. 5, Tambon Koh Lanta Yai, Amphoe Koh Lanta, Krabi, 81150, Tel. 075 629018-9. Alternatively, contact the Department of National Parks, Wildlife and Flora, Tel. 02 5620760 or visit www.dnp.go.th

The page on Koh Lanta is the following: www.dnp.go.th/parkreserve/forprint.asp?npid=49&lg=2

The post Mu Koh Lanta National Park appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

CLIMATE

Tajor Waterfall

Bako National Park enjoys sunny weather much of the year. Temperature is constant throughout the year, ranging in the lowland from a cool 23C in the evening and early morning to 33C under the shade during the day. Fom late November to late January, the monsoon rain may spoil your outing. The hottest months are from June to late August, when the tribal farmers do their slash-and-burn land clearing before planting the rice.

GETTING THERE

Reaching the National Park along the river

Bako National Park is reachable by a 30 minutes drive from Kuching combined with a 20-minute longboat ride from Kampung Bako. You can take the Red public bus number 1, originating from the Kuching fresh market, leaving to/from Bako about once every hour starting from about 7AM from Kuching and finishing about 6PM from Bako, but the schedule is not firm.

The other travel option is by minivan, departing from the same spot as the above bus throughout the day. Minivans depart when full or when waiting passengers offer the driver enough money; they seat 5 to 7 people, are twice as fast as the bus and can be chartered for around RM30.

Bako National Park Registration Building

When you arrive at the Bako Village, register at the visitor center near the main jetty, purchase your National Park entrance ticket, and buy your boat ticket (approx RM100 round trip per boat, max. 5 passengers). Depending on tides, you may either be deposited at a small jetty on the northern end of the headquarters’ beach or on the beach opposite them – take your shoes off and prepare to wade if this is the case.

Tell your boatman when you plan to return and he’ll wait for you at the dock. Note that the boatmen are a small, close-knit community and so other boatmen are likely to refuse to take your group if you are waiting for a previously agreed pickup, even if he is late. Departure times might depend on the tides – boats do get stuck at low tide – and the weather, as the small speedboats are ill-suited to stormy conditions.

ACCOMMODATION

Bako Sea Stack

A stay of a night or two is highly recommended to experience the full diversity of Bako National Park. The park can accommodate people in wooden chalet and bungalows for rent at the park headquarters.  You need to book early as they are limited and quite popular. There are no cooking facilities within the lodges, but the canteen there is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

There is a designated campsite behind the park headquarters that rents spaces for RM5 per person; bring your own equipment. Tough the area is walled up, beware of macaque monkeys, though, as they have been known to rip into tents to take food and belongings.

Accommodation at the Bako National Park includes Hostel Dormitories at RM15.90 per bed or RM 42.40 per room; 2-rooms Lodges, each room 2 single beds, at RM53.00 per room or RM 79.50 per lodge; 2-rooms Chalets, each room 3 single beds, at RM106 per room or RM159.00 per chalet. Contact Bako National Park at +60 (0)82248088, or

ENTRANCE FEE

Foreigners pay entrance RM20fees, RM7kids and senior citizens.

TREKKING ROUTES

Trekking trails covered in white sand

There are 16 well-marked all the way, color-coded jungle treks divided into two choices of trekking: the wildlife watch and the longer treks leading to rugged jungle-covered hilltops and secluded beaches and providing access

Proboscis monkey on a poster in the NP office

to the habitats of the wide range of animal, bird and plant life in the park.. Walks start from the HQ and offer a variety of difficulties. Some of the hikes are over some pretty rugged terrain, with tree roots and vegetation sometimes blocking trails that are less frequented. Ask the park rangers before venturing there.

Visitors are advised to stick to the marked trails, and visitors attempting the longer trails are required to register their arrival and itinerary at park headquarters and to read the estimated times the park suggests you allow for each trail and ensure that you allow enough time to return to park headquarters

There are no hiking facilities for people suffering from limited mobility, and some of the trails are negotiable only by wooden ladders and rickety bridges and boardwarks.

Night-time sightseeing hikes are sometimes led by park staff. For maps and full details of the trails in Bako National Park, browse http://www.trekkingsarawak.com

To get more information on Bako National Park, browse   http://www.sarawakforestry.com/htm/snp-np-bako.html

NOTES

The green forest

Visitors to the park should ensure they carry large quantities of water with them; trekking in subtropical rainforest is thirsty work.

The small island of Pulau Lakei has a superb white sand beach. The National Parks Department has a small guard house located on the island. Trips to the island can be arranged with your boatman. There are some mysterious rock paintings just a short walk from the beach.

READ ASIAN ITINERARY JUNGLE TREKKING TO BAKO AT http://asianitinerary.com/jungle-trekking-at-bako-national-park/

READ ASIAN ITINERARY TOUR TO BAKO AT http://asianitinerary.com/bako-national-park/ 

The post BAKO NATIONAL PARK FACTSHEET appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Tour kindly provided by CPH Travel, located at 70 Padungan Road, ground floor, 93714 Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Tel +6 082414921 – 243708 – email cphtrvl@po.jaring.my – cphtrvl@streamyx.com 

Bako National Park, the oldest national park in Sarawak, was established shortly before Malaysia achieved full independence in 1954, and is today an ideal day trip for nature lovers and eco-minded adventurers. We headed there expecting to discover its extraordinary variety of natural scenery, habitats, plant life, and of course for its wildlife and especially for catching a sight of the bizarre, obscene-nosed Proboscis Monkey.

THE TRIP

Bako National Park jetty

The minivan drive from Kuching Town to Kampung Bako (Bako Village) lasted about 30 minutes. At the park visitors center we registered while the guide arranged our boat ride. At the jetty we got acquainted with the main danger of this amazing environment: the saltwater crocodiles that may be found near river mouths and in mangrove swamps. I got a spooky feeling as I read the warning signs and looked at the murky waters infested with crocs, and I thought about the often-told story of the 14years old local boy who went fishing for crabs and turned into breakfast for one of the giant lizards.

Opposite the jetty, on the other side of the river, a picturesque fishermen village showed off colourful shacks on stilts where a Muslim community of fishermen lives, and nearby pontoons where fishing boats were moored. We learned that the local Government plans to add this river mouth area and its mangroves as part of Bako National Park for an easier environmental control.

Bako National Park signboards

The old boatman, dark-skinned, wide-eared and a sporting a huge smile, maneuvered the engine and pushed the small canvas-roofed wooden boat away from the shore for the 20-minute ride to Bako National Park headquarters situated on a peninsula. The boat ride was exhilarating in itself, and it is indeed part of Bako experience as you pass through stunning scenery. We splashed away towards the South China Sea along a coastline flanked by fully grown mangroves, no bridges crossing the river, and we passed by long poles sticking out of the sea in ordered groups. These are Nibong Palm trunks, a multi-thorn, multipurpose plant used in flooring and wall coverings, and here by fishermen to attach fishing nets that catch anchovies and shrimps when the tides grow or recede.

A majestic rock on the way to Bako

As we approached the river mouth, to our left Mount Santubong peaked majestically, its natural reserve where the Rainforest World Music Festival was held a few days before as a backdrop. Constant erosion over millions of years turned Bako into a picturesque coastline of steep cliffs, sea stacks, rocky headlands, and many stretches of sandy bays. To our right, jungle-covered hills towering over unique geological features like multilayer granitic rocks with iron patterns, iron skin formations, iron ridges, all so spectacular and artistic and shared by a flock of seagulls that circled above us.

Bako Sea Stack-in between two stones-The view from the boat

The boat finally reached the small jetty on the northern end of Bako headquarter’s beach. We walked the boardwalks on stilts to reach the Bako National Park HQ where the registration center and the canteen are based. The interior of the park can only be traversed on foot, and there is a board listing and mapping 16 color-coded jungle trails. At the HQ, we were immediately eyed by a group of naughty macaque monkeys who scatter rubbish and disturb visitors. We also sighted a huge bearded wild boar peacefully sunbathing on the lawn and another roaming freely, eating grass and rolling over stinky mud to repel insects and control body temperature; when the guide reassured us these mammals indigenous to Borneo are not dangerous to humans, we replied that being Italians, ‘Tagliatelle with wild boar sauce’ immediately came to our mind; after all, we may be the dangerous species for them and not the other way around…

Registration and formalities took 5 minutes and are to ensure visitors do not get lost in the park and be unaccounted for. Nearby is the lodging area where covered sheds and lodging  are built, as well as the camping ground.

THE PROBOSCIS MONKEYS

Bako National Park’s dense rainforests are home to a wide range of animals, birds and plant life, including Bako’s most famous residents, the bizarre Proboscis Monkeys. About 150 of this highly endangered species live around the small park, and catching a sight of them is guaranteed as they are often close enough to the HQ area, foraging in the exposed Mangrove tree swamps or jumping from tree-top to tree-top. We started walking behind our guide Wayne and in less than a minute we heard noises from above: a group of Proboscis Monkeys were jumping around, their funny-looking nose pounding up and down, and we got an immediate chance to look at them really close up. It was a good start.

Peaceful water scene at Bako

Tourists of all nationalities come to see the Proboscis Monkeys, with Bako National Park’s number of visitors peaking in recent years. Wayne told us some of the Proboscis Monkeys’ characteristics: they are endemic in the Bako area and are divided into two groups, the young bachelors and the dominant male. Young bachelors and females weight up to 25kg, dominant males up to 50kg; they feed on mangrove leaves and fruits and veggies, have two separate stomachs and sugar consumption provokes their death. The dominant male’s nose is bigger and darker, and his group comprises a male and 9 to 25 females with him that he uses to breed siblings. The groups of bachelors are composed of mainly males; they play most of the time, and at times one detaches to fight a dominant male and get control of his group, consequently taking over all females of that group, killing all the existing babies and starting a dynasty of his own.

Proboscis monkey at Bako National Park

He needs of course to abandon the bachelors group and from that moment has to defend the harem from his ex-friends. Becoming a dominant male can have its advantages, but eventually takes its toll on the male that now has to defend the harem, copulate often and bear with a huge amount of stress (perhaps the reason why his nose turns darker). Proboscis Monkeys can live 15-20 years on wet land.

WILDLIFE

We continued our walk under the canopy of trees accompanied by a distinctive stench: Proboscis Monkeys’ urine. Bako National Park is also home to various types of animals that are commonly spotted, like silvered langurs, flying squirrels, flying lizards and monitor lizards as well as hundreds of different bird species, but we had no much luck apart from seeing a fleeting squirrel, and a big green pit viper hanging motionless on a branch and, by the look of its belly, digesting lunch.

Amazing looking stones

Green pit viper tend to eat and then stay motionless in the same place for over two days to digest the prey, and this allowed us for great close up pictures. Wildlife is most active just before dusk, which means those staying in Bako National Park overnight have better chances to see more of it.

NATURE

Bako National Park is one of the best places in Sarawak to see wildlife in a natural setting, as it contains almost every type of vegetation to be found in Sarawak, including highly distinctive carnivorous plants, or pitcher plants.

Bako National Park welcomes you

There are 7 distinct types of ecosystem in Sarawak, with 7 types of different vegetation – beach vegetation, cliff vegetation, heath forest, mangrove forest, mixed dipterocarp forest, grasslands vegetation and peat swamp forest – giving the region a remarkable diversity of animal and plant life. There are lots of easy walks on duckboards, and I was thrilled at the fascinating wide range of vegetation I saw close up, including lots of wild orchids.

OUR GUIDE

Wayne is a local mix-breed between a Chinese and a tribal family. Tattoed with local motives and possessing a great wealth of information on the Bako National Park and its nature, and everything else really. Most of the info in this article was supplied by him during conversations! He explained that would-be guides need to spend a month in each National Park they intend to take visitors to, in order to learn notions and get their license. Guide licenses are renewable yearly and carry compulsory day refreshment courses every 3 months on each national park. ABC course is also compulsory to become a guide.

Bako Boat Service counter

Wayne works with CPH Travel, the company that supplied all our tours, and we would not hesitate to recommend them for your needs when in Sarawak. All guides are nice and professional and speak languages, the company has won several government quality and green awards, their programs are comprehensive and flexible and their minivans and buses are new and comfortable. Their main office is in Kuching Town, on the ground floor at n.70 of Padungan Road, not far from Kuching’s cat statue, and they have a branch in Damai at the Damai Puri Resort. Contact them on +6 082414921 or via http://www.cphtravel.com.my/

We returned in the mid-afternoon to our hotel with plenty of tales and a huge amount of pictures, our expectations fully fulfilled. Visit Bako National Park if you are in the area, you will not be disappointed.

READ ASIAN ITINERARY JUNGLE TREKKING TO BAKO AT http://asianitinerary.com/jungle-trekking-at-bako-national-park/

READ BAKO FACTSHEET AT http://asianitinerary.com/bako-national-park-factsheet/

The post Bako National Park tour appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Rafly and his band actively campaign to preserve the environment through music since 2000.  He and his band were made homeless by 2004 tsunami, and they lost all their musical equipment, yet they raised again, holding concerts at victims’ camps, entertaining and giving a spiritual and moral message to them.

In 2004 Aceh tsunami-affected, the disaster has killed up to 250,000 people. Rafly tsunami made homeless and all musical equipment, but Rafly tried to get up and work to hold concerts in every place of refuge for victims of the tsunami in Aceh, entertaining and giving spirit and moral messages to each refugee. Rafly concern for the social, for nature, religion and the community as gained him a place as an ambassador for peace in Aceh through musical performances often sponsored by international agencies and foundations.

Rafly formed his jazz band, Rafly Wa Saja, in 2010 and has long been the voice of struggle and hope for the Acehnese, teaming up with several Indonesian musicians in the jazz sector. The unique vocal character of Rafly’s voice has been an inspiration and an advocate of peace in his homeland of Aceh, and he has been featured in several jazz and music festivals.

At the 16^th Rainforest World Music Festival, Rafly and his band made a plea to policy makers and the public to use their local wisdom within to avoid the destruction of world’s nature.

Rafly’s performance at Rainforest World Music Festival. Kuching 29 June 2013

They did it through music, enlivening the festival, conveying messages through lyrics, and conquering the crowd with their heart-touching performance.

Rafly composes and sings a lot of the songs and the lyrics in his native Aceh language, and his songs carry within them infinite spiritual nuances and love for the nature and for the Islamic faith. He uses a special improvisational scat technique that is traditional in Aceh, and commands an audience to listen to the rapai’ drum and to his reflective voice. No wonder Rafly has already sold millions in his home province of Aceh.

Members of the band include Saat Syah who plays a Kalimantan flute, virtuostic guitarist Agam Hamzah, funky bassist Adi Darmawan and percussionist Jalu, an they are supported by Bali-based composer Franki Raden (http://www.ubudconcertseries.org/).

Follow Rafly on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Dukungan-Rakyat-Aceh-Untuk-Rafly-Kande-ke-DPD-RI/256933754437713?fref=ts

This is his Rafly website: http://raflyaceh.name/

The post RAFLY WA SAYA, A PROPELLING GROOVE appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

The Rafflesia, the world’s largest flower, is a parasitic plant found only in Southeast Asia, and then only in sub-mountainous hilly forests at elevations between 400-1,300 metres.

Rafflesia gigantic flower

Sir Stamford Raffles and Dr Joseph Arnold were the first Europeans to discover the Rafflesia. In 1818, whilst on a field trip near the town of Bencoolen (Bengkulu) in Sumatra, they came across a huge specimen that measured 97 cm in diameter. This species was later named the Rafflesia Arnoldi. When news of the discovery reached the botanical community in 1820 it caused quite a sensation with murmurings of disbelief.

There are thought to be 17 species of Rafflesia, some of which may already be extinct. Three species are found in Sarawak – the Rafflesia Pricei, Rafflesia Arnoldi and Rafflesia Tuan-Mudae, which is actually a type of Arnoldi. Only one species, Rafflesia Tuan-Mudae, is found at Gunung Gading.

Rafflesia in the first few days

The Rafflesia is as unusual as it is spectacular. Much of the flower’s biology remains a mystery to this day. It has no specific flowering season and it has no roots, leaves or stem. The Rafflesia depends on a host vine – the tetrastigma, a member of the grape family. Scientists are still unsure why the Rafflesia associates itself with the tetrastigma vine or how the seeds of a Rafflesia germinate and grow. What is known is that threads of tissue spread out within the vine and absorb nutrients. After 18 months a small dark brown bud appears.

Such a long period of growth means that there is a high risk of damage; even when a bud forms there is no guarantee that it will mature into a Rafflesia flower. A bud takes nine months to mature, when it may measure up to 16 cm in diameter, and studies have shown that a high percentage of buds do not survive, as they are susceptible to both drought and heavy rain.

Raflesia flower

After nine months the brown ‘leaves’ of the cabbage-like bud open, revealing the underside of the petal-like lobes. It takes several hours for a flower to open fully. There are usually five thick and fleshy red-coloured petals, covered in lighter coloured spots, warts and blotches. The Rafflesia only blooms for 3-5 days, before it starts to blacken and rot. Although it is quite common for a number of buds to occur in a cluster at the same site, it is rare for two plants of the same cluster to bloom at the same time.

Rafflesia flowers are either male or female, and therefore cannot self-pollinate. For pollination to take place, a male and a female flower must bloom at the same time and pollen must be transported over considerable distances. In the Rafflesia’s case pollination is carried out by carrion flies, so whilst in full bloom the Rafflesia gives off a foul smell of decaying flesh to attract them. Seeds are thought to be dispersed by rodents and other small mammals which eat the flowers. Scientists remain baffled, however, as to how the tiny seeds infest the roots and stems of the host vine.

Rafflesia about to open

Loss of habitat is the greatest threat to the survival of the Rafflesia. Its reliance on the tetrastigma vine does not help matters. With other endangered species it is possible to implement a range of conservation measures such as trans-location and the establishment of nurseries. However, these measures are not possible with the Rafflesia due to its very high degree of specialization. The establishment of totally protected conservation zones is the only way to preserve this unique plant.

Gunung Gading National Park in Southwest Sarawak is such a conservation zone. Gazetted in 1983, the park covers an area of 4,106 hectares and forms a safe and secure habitat for the protection of the Rafflesia.

The Rafflesia is a rare flower with a short flowering period. Therefore a certain amount of luck is required if your visit to Sarawak is to coincide with a Rafflesia in full bloom. The park staff monitor the progress of the Rafflesia buds very closely, and usually know when a flower is about to bloom, so visitors can check with the park headquarters (Tel: 082-735714) or the National Parks Booking Office in Kuching (Tel: 082-248088).

A plank walk is situated near the park headquarters in an area where Rafflesia are often found. Park wardens also take visitors on guided walks to flowers that are blooming deeper in the forest. Visitors should take notice of the warden’s instructions and tread carefully, to avoid damaging any buds on the forest floor.

Rafflesia has no set flowering season, but blooms are more common at Gunung Gading during the wetter months (November to February). They are also more common on the lower slopes of the park’s mountain peaks.

Sourced from: www.sarawakforestry.com

The post THE RAFFLESIA appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

The name Borneo conjures up the idea of mystery, fascination and tropical uncontaminated nature. This is exactly what we had in mind when we planned a visit to one of Sarawak’s National Parks.

Gunung Gading National Park, in the Malaysian Borneo, is a beautiful expanse of mountainous primary rainforest located at the western tip of the state of Sarawak, only two hours’ drive from Kuching. Located near the pleasant little town of Lundu, the park started as a conservation zone for the spectacular Rafflesia, the largest flower in the world that can grow up to one metre in diameter, and ended up being designated as a National Park in 1994. The jungle-clad rugged mountains within the park sprawl across four peaks and provide a scenic backdrop to the whole area and to the clean and well-organized park quarters.

We were on a day trip to the park kindly sponsored by Sarawak Tourism Board (www.sarawaktourism.com) and were assigned helpful Wain as a guide during our minivan journey, and Antonia, one of the park’s knowledgeable tour guides, for the Rafflesia trek. Antonia is a very knowledgeable and informative tour guide, with perfect English and Chinese, some Thai, and “notions in a few more languages” as she modestly boasts.

We began our walk along a plank trail criss-crossed by clear streams that flow through huge rounded boulders that belong to the geological era of Miocene, dated at about 20 million years ago. Humidity was high but the canopy of trees shaded the trail from the scorching sun; Antonia made a few stops to give us useful notions on the park and on the Rafflesia flowers.

We had previously called the park to check whether there was any Rafflesia in bloom, and were confirmed there were a few at that time. Much of the flower’s biology remains a mystery to this day. It has no specific flowering season and it has no roots, leaves or stem. Rafflesia flowers are hard to see; they bloom after 9 months and only 20% of the buds on average manage to do so as they are susceptible to both drought and heavy rains, and then quickly blacken and rot after 5 days.

It is very unlikely you spot Rafflesia without a guide. Antonia took us off the plank walk into the forest, where we first saw the rotten aftermath of these flowers as well as the younger buds, before spotting a fully bloomed one-day-old Rafflesia that was 53cm in diameter. We were lucky to see the full life cycle of the flowering in its various stages of development, and our photographer went to great length to climb down the rocky slope that took us to look closely at a magnificent Rafflesia two days old and an impressive 75cm long from one tip of the petal to the tip of the opposite one. Mind you, both flowers were well off the beaten track and we would not have seen it without our guide. National Parks Department watches closely Gunung Gading to ensure that visitors get the best opportunities to view the flowering Rafflesia without causing any damage to the young buds and to other flora in the surrounding area. Our guide Wein reminded us that damaging a Rafflesia flower carries a fine of up to 7.000 US$ and up to 2 years in jail. Indeed not something we planned to do!

During the trek back, we contemplated the great job that the Sarawak local government is doing in order to preserve this corner of geological history that is the park; this has only been possible thanks to the fact that the local inhabitants, who have a background as extended families all living under one roof in traditional long-houses, have a communal interest to preserve the environment and the local resources. In the case of the Rafflesia flower, the government has taken locals by the hand and taught them a way to generate income through tourism, achievable only by protecting what tourists come to visit, and by training locals to take proper care of visitors. We hear that local guides are not only trained properly and extensively, but that they also given compulsory refreshment courses, four per year, in order to keep them up to the standard expected by visitors.

Overall the park is a good place for trekking, with a variety of trails of low to medium difficulty; don’t expect to encounter many wild animals though, except from a few squirrels and the elusive wild cats. The jungle trails, sided by thick lianas dropping from amazing heights and by trees’ gigantic roots embracing boulders in order to grow high and still be able to withstand the power of winds from any direction, lead to streams, cascading waterfalls and the mountains, with one path taking trekkers to the summit of Gunung Gading – 906m above sea level – a trek that should give visitors more chance to see wildlife.

Back to the park quarters, we visited the Interpretation Center hosted in a traditional wooden roundhouse on stilts, where there is a wealth of information on the park flora and fauna. The quietness of the natural surrounding makes Gunung Gading National Park a perfect place for a day’s trip or for a tranquil week-end with family or friends. The park is well-maintained, with different types of accommodation to suit all budgets, including wooden chalets, camping and lodging facilities; there are also a budget hotel and a lodging house in nearby Lundu.

It was only a short visit but well worth it, and we left seriously hoping that this well-organized National Park that today gets visited by relatively few people, can sustain its fragile ecosystem once the number of visitors grow.

HOW TO CONTACT

National Parks Booking Office – Visitors Information Center

Jalan Tun Abang Haji Openg – 93000 Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia

Tel. (+6)082 248088 – www.sarawakforestry.com

The post KUCHING – GUNUNG GADING NATIONAL PARK appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Khao Sok National Park

One interesting tourist spot in Surat Thani province, known for its rain forest and nicknamed the Guilin of Thailand, is Khao Sok National Park. The park hosts the largest and most important tropical rainforest in the southern part of Thailand thanks to its high biological diversity which includes many rare species of plants some of which are endemic to the area, such as Bua-Pood – or Rafflesia, the largest flower in Thailand with 70-90 centimeters in diameter.

Amazing limestone mountains stand above the water near the Ratchaprapa Dam, a multi-purpose dam that was built over the Pra-sang canal. The dam is 65 kilometers from Khao Sok National Park and is opened all year round. However, the recommended travelling period is during dry season, December to April. Within the dam area there are hundreds of limestone islets that created the beautiful scenery which earned it its nickname.

The whole park area provides accommodation for tourists who want to be surrounded by mountains and water. Rafting houses are owned by both private owners and the Khao Sok National Park. Each of them has its own unique environment, with some situated among the best scenery. Some quite isolated and very quiet suitable for those who love peace and tranquillity. To reach the rafting houses, we took a ride on a longtail boat from the deck at Ratchaprapa Dam. The price varies depending on the travelling distance. Traveling times are on average less than 40 mins.

The lake at Khao Sok

One of the interesting spots in the Ratchaprapa Dam area is the view point. To get there we hired a boat and a guide and reached the beginning of a walking trail 40 minutes from our accommodation. We then walked another 45-60 minutes along a fairly easy trail. The limestone rocks along the last 50 meters of the trail are sharp, so visitors should at least wear hiking shoes and possibly hiking gloves if they plan to visit the view point. The effort is well worth it as the view of the limestone scenery and the small island in the lake are breathtaking from there.

The second place I recommend is Pakarang Cave (meaning coral in Thai) which is located to the west of Khao Sok. After a short walk and a boat ride we boarded a raft to cross the river and reach the entrance to the cave. The cave in itself is not large but its stalagmites have shapes of corals, hence the cave name.

Not far from there, there is a tourist spot where three giant limestone cliffs and the Na-Yak Mountain form the valley in which the lake sits. If you clap or yell at that point, you will hear an echo.

Navigating Khao Sok with a traditional longtail boat

We had heard from our travelling friends that the Rafflesia plants were blooming. This plant of the Raffiesiacoae family survives using water from other plants, and has flowers that grow from the ground during the rainy season when humidity is high (from May to December). To see Rafflesia one should consider a steep 45 minute walk. We did, and were lucky to find a Rafflesia with a diameter of 50 centimeters although a fully grown flower can reach 70–80 centimeters in diameter. Apart from specific local plants, Khao Sok National Park has a variety of wild animals that can be spotted; hornbills, monkeys, langurs, and even bulls.

If you have the opportunity to visit Surat Thani province, a stop in Khao Sok National Park or Ratchaprapa Dam would make an excellent side trip. I guarantee maximum enjoyment with various activities such as hiking, canoeing, swimming or simply enjoying the beauty of nature.

Getting there:

There are 2 ways to reach Khao Sok National Park; one is taking off from Amphur Muang in Surat Thani province or Amphur Takua-Pa in Phang-Nga province on highway number 401 (Suratthani-Takhupa) and turn off to enter the park at 109^km marker. Follow the road for another 1.5 kilometers to reach the office of Khao Sok National Park.

To get to Ratchaprapa Dam:

Use the junction to the National Park Division, Protected Area Regional Office 2 between 57^th and 58^th kilometer markers and continue for another 12 kilometers to reach Ratchaprapa dam. Visitors can continue on boat to another 3 Protected Area Regional Offices located in the dam.

The post Khao Sok – the Guilin of Thailand appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Speed boats by company Phi Phi Tour

Koh Phi Phi: one of the best known destinations in Thailand. The name alone conjures up images of pristine beaches, coral reefs, paradise spots, you name it.
The aim of the speedboat trip was to see for myself the natural beauties this Krabi archipelago reserves. I was in the professional hands of one of the best tour operators in the area: Phi Phi Tour, a company that has gained popularity in the past few years and now stands out from rest. At eight in the morning we met the tour supervisor in their office. The tour guide was a friendly Thai man fluent in English. He gave instructions to his staff, and at 8.30 the anchor was drawn, the engine started; we were on our way to the magic of Phi Phi.

It was an exceptionally clear day; the sea was calm, the sun was warming the air. Koh Phi Phi’s mountainous shape could be clearly seen in the distance. The boat jumped on the gentle waves of the open sea while the shape of Phi Phi Don, the largest of the Phi Phi archipelago, approached. We passed Phi Phi Don’s Laem Tong cape and navigated along the westward side of the archipelago; the captain sailed near the island to give us a perfect view of the magnificent colors of the cliffs entirely covered by thick tropical vegetation. On the Phi Phi Don bay, sailboats and longtail boats were anchored and swimmers enjoyed the clear waters; a line of palm trees dotted the coast and dominated the horizon, providing shade and a natural hiding cover to the hotels present on the island.

Our first stop of the day, an hour from Ao Nang, was in Maya Bay, in Phi Phi Ley, the location of the filming of “The Beach”. We were well ahead of the crowds and were left on a marvelous sandy beach where we sunbathed, swam and explored the bay. The scenery was stunning. A couple of paths take to the inside of the island, where thick and lush vegetation soon blocks the way to the hills. We stood on the sand, looking at the cliffs’ vegetation that was reflected in the water and created a varied palette of greens and aquamarine blues. A look at the sky above rewarded us with the sight of a big eagle regally flying in circles before disappearing behind the top of a mountain.

We left when the bay started to get overcrowded with numerous speedboats and huge tourist boats; we passed the southern tip of the archipelago and stopped for snorkeling near Ao Loh Samah bay. We were provided with quality masks and snorkels, lifejackets for those who needed them, and we were given a generous 30 minutes to swim around the area while the boat crew fed the fish with loaves of bread. The water was warm and transparent, 10 to 20 meters deep; fish abounded in quantity and variety and the time allowed to us passed in an instant. We saw lionfish, orange and white clown anemone fish, parrotfish the colors of the rainbow, lovely moon-shaped black and yellow striped banner fish, and many different species of giant clams that hided inside their huge shells as soon as we approached them.
Those were just a few of the more than 500 species of fish that are strongly dependent on coral reefs in the Andaman Sea, notably using the corals as physical habitat and shelter sites, and also by taking both corals and coral reef associated food resources.

The following stop, a few minutes away, was in Ao Phi Ley lagoon, a bay enclosed on its near entirety by the high limestone walls of the island’s cliffs that make it appear to be an inland lake. We did some snorkeling there too; before leaving the driver circumnavigated the inside of the bay, getting near the thin and high fissures on the surrounding rock, their walls covered by impenetrable jungle. On some tree branches, giant bats rested hanging upside down, their black shapes barely visible amongst the millions of dark green leaves.

Sightseeing outside Viking Cave, in the northeast side of Koh Phi Phi Ley, is limited as tourists are not allowed to disembark there. This large cave is considered sacred by locals who collect swallow birds’ nests climbing tall bamboo ladders that find their way up the high entrails of the cave. Inside Viking Cave are ancient pictorials of elephants and various types of boats originating from other parts of the world. These are believed to be the work of sea merchants or pirates as the area might have been a stopover in the ancient sea routes for boats seeking shelter from storms.

The next activity was another snorkeling stop in Ladin bay, where the shallow waters allow a clear view of an exceptional variety of corals. Coral reefs are made up of different types of corals that are made of calcium and are produced by a small organism that can only survive in tropical waters. There we could observe cauliflower corals, brown or yellow staghorn corals, mushroom corals, bush corals, brain corals, table corals, entire expanses of sea anemones and a huge colony of sea urchins, their single orange eye observing us from below, their thorns threatening anyone who accidentally placed a bare foot onto them.

It was midday and all the physical activity had opened up our bellies. The speedboat docked in the Loh Dalam Bay of Phi Phi Don. The set menu was a treat for all of us and a distinction from other tour companies that usually feed customers in more commercial establishments.

Dolphins playing near the boat: not an unusual show going to Phi Phi Island

The Phi Phi Tour crew returned on board to get everything organized while we drank our coffee in the restaurant. It was soon time for our speedboat to depart again towards the last snorkeling stop. Hin Klang is a location so full of corals and fish that in a way crowned the whole marine sightseeing of the day. After snorkeling we were rewarded with an excellent surprise: a group of dolphins was swimming around our boat, their fins emerging form the water from time to time. The driver did not waste time and quickly put into practice his skills, pushing the speedboat in motions at medium speed following rotation patterns and loops. The dolphins, attracted by the waves the boat was creating, followed them, jumping out of the sea in their entirety. Their massive body flipped in the air like feathers, pushed by their enormous strength. We continued this game for a few minutes, with other dolphins joining the initial group, until we could clearly see the huge shapes of many of them underwater, swimming very near to our boat and even under it. It was an exciting experience that left all of us speechless while our cameras tried to get some good shots of the special event.
It was with this good memory in mind that we disembarked in the last stop of the day, Koh Phai, or Bamboo Island. Koh Phai, not far from neighboring Koh Yung, has marvelous sandy beaches and an impressive bank of coral reefs that stretches from the north to the south of the island, the perfect place for relaxing, walking along white crystalline sand and taking the last swim of the tour. Koh Phai is considered by many to be the most beautiful and perfect island of Krabi.

The day was still glorious and our tour was heading to an end. The cruising to Ao Nang was smooth and pleasant; in the proximity of Chicken Island we could spot dark clouds forming inland from the coast. During the last minutes of our journey the speedboat had to negotiate some strong waves that were gradually growing in size; the sun disappeared, the gentle breeze became a strong and cold wind. The very moment we descended from the boat in Ao Nang beach the heavens opened and thick rain started to hit the ground. We thanked the ever so helpful guide and the crew and made our way home.

You might argue that, with 18 kilometers of coral reefs surrounding the Phi Phi archipelago, and the amazing spots that allow wonderful snorkeling in shallow and deep waters, with snorkeling allegedly being better than scuba diving for fish viewing, having fun on a day boat trip to Phi Phi should be guaranteed on any tour. While this can be truth, I must spend a word to congratulate Phi Phi Tour and their staff for guaranteeing everything was well organized and ran by the book. The dedication of the crew ensured we had a pleasant and worry-free day at sea, as we felt in the hands of professionals and could really enjoy this experience.
All Phi Phi Tour boat tours include round trip transfer from/to your hotel, drinking water, seasonal fruit and a local cake, life jacket, mask and snorkel. Last point to note is that both the guide and the crew confirmed that the dolphins were just part of our luck. It had never happened before on one of their tours to Koh Phi Phi; it was an unusual event, so don’t expect it on your tour, but you might be lucky enough…

http://www.phiphitours.com/

[wptabs style=”wpui-light” mode=”horizontal”]

[wptabtitle] Map[/wptabtitle] [wptabcontent][map id=”1219″][/wptabcontent]

[wptabtitle] Itinerary[/wptabtitle] [wptabcontent]

Only 45 minute boat trip is needed to reach the archipelago of Phi Phi Island. We will stop on Bamboo Island and on Maya Bay where the world famous Di Caprio movie was shot. Lunch served at a restaurant. Mask and snorkel are available.

07:45 to 08:00 Departure from your hotel by minibus and transfer to the embarkation point. The exact time depends on the area your hotel is located and will be communicated at the time of booking.
08:30 Departure by speedboat towards Phi Phi Island.
• Stop at Bamboo Island. Free time on the beach, where you can bathe and will have the chance to do some snorkeling.
• Stop at Hin Klang, a rock in the open sea where you can do snorkeling directly from the boat.
• Step at Pi Leh Bay to admire this beautiful fjord.
• Stop at the Lohsamah Bay where you can do snorkeling directly from the boat.
• Stop at world-famous Maya Bay, where the movie “The Beach” was filmed.
• Stop at Monkey Beach to relax on the sand and to play with the monkeys that regularly come down from the rocks above.
• Stop for lunch at a restaurant on the beach.

The package includes:
Transfer to and from your hotel, mask and snorkel, life jacket, water, fruit and dessert on board, lunch at a restaurant, English speaking guide, entrance fees in National Parks.
What to bring:
Sunscreen, swimsuit, beach shoes, beach towel, camera
Notes:
• tips are not included
• the program may change due to weather conditions

[/wptabcontent]

[wptabtitle] Booking[/wptabtitle] [wptabcontent]For more inquiries or for booking, contact asianitinerary.com through the “contact us” page [/wptabcontent]

[/wptabs]

The post By speedboat to the jewels of the Andaman Sea: Koh Phi Phi appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

A tree palm welcome at tonsay bay

Mu Koh Phi Phi has been part of the Noppharat Thara National Park since 1983 and is about 40 kilometers from Krabi, covering an area of around 35 square kilometers. It is made up of six islands with features such as incredible beaches and unique coral reefs. Sheer limestone cliffs and rocks, characteristic of this area, emerge from the Andaman Sea.

The name Phi Phi only refers to the two biggest islands in the archipelago: Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Leh. The rest are named, in order of size, Koh Phai, Koh Yung, Koh Bida Nok and Koh Bida Nai.

The worldwide exposure these natural treasures gained from their location of the filming of the Hollywood movie “The Beach” added popularity to this already famous group of holiday islands. The latest publicity for this archipelago was unfortunately due to the notorious 2004 tsunami, whose gigantic waves submerged most of the bay where the resorts and development were situated. Ao Ton Sai on Phi Phi Don claimed many victims. It has taken some time to clear up the area and for visitors to return, but Phi Phi is back on its feet and even better than before.

Maya Bay, the most known place in the Andaman Sea

The Chao Leh or sea gypsies, who began living on Phi Phi generations ago, were allowed to own settlements on the islands. Unscrupulous developers were previously able to find a loophole in the law, building on these settlements and in other prohibited areas. The tsunami disaster gave the Government the opportunity to rethink the situation, pass new protection laws and only allow sensible and “green” developments. It remains to be seen how long these new ideas will continue.

http://www.tourismthailand.org/Where-to-Go/Koh-Phi-Phi

http://asianitinerary.com/by-speedboat-to-the-jewels-of-the-andaman-sea-phi-phi-island/

The post Phi Phi Island: a short introduction appeared first on Asian Itinerary.