Enhancing the experience further, children also enjoy complimentary breakfast when breakfast is included in the parents’ booked rate, ensuring a seamless and comfortable stay for every member of the family.

Participating Hotels

• Chatrium Grand Bangkok
• Chatrium Riverside Bangkok
• Chatrium Sathorn Bangkok
• Emporium Suites by Chatrium
• Maitria Hotel Rama 9 Bangkok – A Chatrium Collection
• Maitria Hotel Sukhumvit 18 – A Chatrium Collection
• Maitria Mode Sukhumvit 15 – A Chatrium Collection

• Chatrium Golf Resort Soi Dao Chanthaburi

Kids stay free Thailand Japan Myanmar

Khao Yai, Thailand

• Lacol Khaoyai – A Chatrium Collection

• Chatrium Hotel Royal Lake Yangon

• Chatrium Niseko Japan

The post Chatrium Hospitality “Kids Stay Free” Across Thailand, Japan and Myanmar appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Chatrium Hospitality invites travelers to end the year on a high note with its “11.11 End of Year Exclusive” campaign, a limited-time promotion offering exceptional savings and exclusive privileges across its collection of city hotels and resort destinations in Thailand, Myanmar, and Japan.

Guests booking from 6 to 16 November 2025 will enjoy exclusive stay offers valid from 6 November 2025 to 31 October 2026, making it the perfect opportunity to plan both spontaneous getaways and future holidays.

Exclusive Offers Include:

• City Hotels: Turn your getaway into something remarkable. Stay 4 nights and enjoy 25% off — it’s our way of giving you one night on us. Guests will also receive a complimentary upgrade to the next room category.
• Resort Hotels (Lacol Khaoyai – A Chatrium Collection and Chatrium Golf Resort Soi Dao Chanthaburi): Turn your getaway into something remarkable. Stay 3 nights and enjoy 33% off — it’s our way of giving you one night on us. Guests will also receive a complimentary upgrade to the next room category.

Beyond exceptional stays, Chatrium Hospitality invites guests to savor curated culinary experiences at its most celebrated restaurants. From elegant riverside dining to festive buffets and seasonal celebrations, enjoy Christmas and New Year feasts, afternoon teas, tapas nights, and special golf getaways, all available through the 11.11 promotion.

For the first time, guests can also purchase 11.11 accommodation and dining gift vouchers directly on Chatrium’s website, perfect for sharing as thoughtful New Year presents or memorable treats for loved ones.

Adding to the excitement, Chatrium Hospitality will host a special Facebook Live event on 10 November 2025 from 20:00 to 23:00 hrs on the Chatrium Hospitality Facebook Fan Page. Viewers will enjoy exclusive, limited-time deals, including the opportunity to purchase accommodation and dining vouchers during the live session, with a complimentary upgrade even for a one-night stay, available only while watching live. The broadcast will also feature interactive segments, live giveaways, and engaging highlights designed to inspire your next remarkable stay.

As the group’s most extensive end-of-year promotion, the campaign spans 11 properties across Chatrium and Maitria Hotels in Thailand, Myanmar, and Japan. Guests booking directly via www.chatrium.com or www.maitriahotels.com will enjoy exclusive savings, complimentary room upgrades, and the best available rates.

Participating Hotels

Bangkok, Thailand

• Chatrium Grand Bangkok
• Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok
• Chatrium Sathon Bangkok
• Emporium Suites by Chatrium
• Maitria Hotel Rama 9 Bangkok – A Chatrium Collection
• Maitria Hotel Sukhumvit 18 – A Chatrium Collection
• Maitria Mode Sukhumvit 15 – A Chatrium Collection

Chanthaburi, Thailand

• Chatrium Golf Resort Soi Dao Chanthaburi

Khao Yai, Thailand

• Lacol Khaoyai – A Chatrium Collection

Yangon, Myanmar

• Chatrium Hotel Royal Lake Yangon

Niseko, Japan

• Chatrium Niseko Japan

Whether planning your next getaway or a memorable evening with family and friends, Chatrium Hospitality’s 11.11 celebration promises exceptional value, indulgence, and moments to remember.

Book Now Link

For more information, please visit www.chatrium.com or contact info@chatrium.com.

Don’t miss out. Remarkable moments await.

……………………..

About Chatrium Hospitality: Chatrium Hospitality offers distinguished settings for weddings and engagements, combining modern luxury with the warm hospitality Thailand is known for. With venues in prime locations both within and outside of Bangkok, Chatrium ensures that each wedding is as unique and extraordinary as the couple celebrating their special day.

The post Chatrium Unveils the “11.11 End of Year Exclusive” Campaign
 appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

As Spain’s leading hotel group, Meliá Hotels International, continues to expand its presence throughout Asia the company is making sure to bring the passion and flair Spain is known for – especially when it comes to protecting the environment.

Earlier this year the group announced the achievement of the highest overall rating in the global hotel industry in the 2023 S&P Global Corporate Sustainability Assessment (CSA), an assessment of the performance in sustainability of over 7,800 companies around the world.

In Southeast Asia the penchant for environmental initiatives runs deep with a host of initiatives, partnerships, and hands-on programs at properties from Vietnam to Indonesia.

Below are a few highlights that showcase how the brand is ensuring future travellers can enjoy the beauty of these destinations for generations to come.

Indonesia

Coasters made out of recycled chopsticks at Melia Bali

While digitization is becoming more commonplace in the hospitality industry, Gran Meliá Jakarta is taking all things electronic one step further. In addition to introducing a Meliá app to cut down on paper collateral and streamline processes, and offering a QR code for menus, the luxury hotel, in the heart of the busy metropolis, has introduced electric car charging stations and switched all lighting to LED. INNSiDE Yogyakarta is also embracing the increase in digital demand by offering key information and menus via smartphone. Meliá Bali, the group’s first hotel in Asia, which opened in the ‘80s, makes use of the abundant natural surroundings with an organic vegetable garden, honey-producing beehives, and microgreens corner. The oceanfront resort has partnered with the Nusa Dua Reef Foundation for a coral restoration project, which guests can get involved in, ecollabo8 for repurposing plastic into usable items – including a table in their kids club, ChopValue Indonesia for repurposing chopsticks and satay sticks into coasters, and Soap for Hope, which offers a sanitary method of repurposing used soap. The property is now plastic-free with everything from bin liners to amenity wrappers being swapped out for biodegradable alternatives. Even the takeaway coffee cups are now compostable. Sol by Meliá Benoa Bali is mitigating food waste through Scholars of Sustenance, a program that helps feed the island’s most in need communities, and helping educate guests through their Cleaning Blitzes.

Earth Day Activities: For Earth Day Sol by Meliá Benoa Bali will host a beach Cleaning Blitz with guests having the opportunity to join. On Saturday there will be a host of activities around Earth Day. Craft activities for kids include bag painting with an Earth Day theme and adults can make torches using waste cooking oil.

Vietnam

Willow Garden at Melia Ho Tram

Meliá’s most expansive presence in Asia is within Vietnam with a myriad of hotels spread from north to south. Several properties have launched their own organic gardens, including Willow’s Garden in Meliá Ho Tram and the Balansa Organic Garden at Meliá Ba Vi Mountain Retreat. Many properties have partnered with Diversey, a global cleaning and hygiene products manufacturer, on programs such as PlasticShreds, which converts single-use plastic into plastic chips that are then combined with other materials to be upcycled into a variety of uses, from new roads to badminton courts; along with Linens For Life and Soap for Hope. Both initiatives involve transforming materials, such as leftover soap and old linen, into new (sterilized) soap bars and products for people in need, including all-purpose bags, sleeping bags, soft toys for children, and school uniforms. Plastic is being eliminated, whether it be bottles or amenity wrappings, and Sol by Meliá Phu Quoc has installed a 20-liter water tank in each room, along with two reusable glass bottles, so guests can keep topping up their own water supply without going through multiple bottles.

Earth Day Activities: At Meliá Ho Tram children and adults alike can take part in complimentary eco-themed activities including Earth Rock Painting at 11am and Recycled Paper Crafts at 3pm at the resort’s Elyxr Cafe. At Meliá Ba Vi guests can take part in tree planting activities on April 22nd.

Thailand

Meliá Chiang Mai 360-degree food program

With three properties in the country and one more opening this year Meliá is cementing its presence in the popular tourist destination while trying to keep a light footprint. All properties have gone paperless with necessary information and menus available via QR code. For hotel supplies that are printed novel approaches are used, such as recycled banana leaves in Meliá Phuket Mai Khao and wooden folders with fabric from a local village in Meliá Chiang Mai. The pineapples in Phuket are used for more than just delicious desserts. The cleaning team uses a natural detergent made from pineapple peel. While the pineapple tops, which will eventually grow into a new pineapple, are used as table decorations throughout the property. Meliá Chiang Mai and Meliá Koh Samui have organic vegetable gardens, with Meliá Chiang Mai implementing a 360-degree approach with its farm on the outskirts of town and Meliá Phuket Mai Khao recently expanding its organic vegetable patch. Meliá Chiang Mai also works with suppliers to ensure other vegetable deliveries come by basket and food waste that doesn’t got back to their organic farm as compost goes to a local pig farm. Meliá Phuket Mai Khao and Meliá Koh Samui have implemented wellness retreat programs, supporting mind, body and spirit, and also encouraging guests to interact with nature more. A prominent tree at Meliá Phuket Mai Khao features a “hug me” sign with a QR code giving hugging instructions to guests.

Myanmar

Melia Yangon Exterior

In Myanmar, Meliá Yangon has gone solar with the addition of roof solar panels to heat their hot water tanks. The city hotel isn’t letting the central location damper its farming ambitions and the hotel has its own organic vegetable garden located on the third floor. The Yangon team are actively involved in community programs such as Linen for Life, where they made 4,000 masks by upcycling old bed sheets and unusable uniforms into fabric, and through visiting local elderly homes and youth centres to provide support.

Malaysia

Meliá’s newest hotel in the region, INNSiDE by Meliá Kuala Lumpur Cheras, opened on March 25 with a host of eco-measures already in place, including wheat straw combs and toothbrushes, yoga mats made from cork, and solar-powered LED lighting.

Earth Day Activities: On April 22nd INNSiDE by Meliá Kuala Lumpur Cheras will begin planting a poolside vegetable garden with lemongrass, pandan leaves, chili, mint and tomatoes that will be watered by recycled rain water and will eventually supply the kitchen.

The post Meliá Hotels International Goes Green appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Keinnara Loikaw Deluxe Room

Keinnara Lodge Loikaw, an eco-lodge owned and operated by Myanmar tourism trailblazers Memories Group, has launched what it hopes will be a tasteful introduction to Western cuisine in the remote region of Kayah State. The resort’s new menu was unveiled on October 1, 2019 by Chef Thu Ra Aung, who previously worked for nine years as a chef de partie and sous chef at Yangon’s celebrated Strand Hotel.

Keinnara Lodge Loikaw’s new chef Thu Ra Aung previously worked at the celebrated Strand Hotel in Yangon

“Chef Thu Ra Aung brings a wealth of new culinary ideas and experience to this tranquil corner of Myanmar,” said Keinnara Lodge Loikaw’s general manager Ko Ko Lay. “Most people in Kayah State have never tried Australian beef, couscous, pan-fried salmon or European wines, so we hope these dishes appeal to their taste buds.”

Among the chef’s specialities, Thu Ra Aung said that he also intends to unveil a few “Kayah fusion” dishes starting with his very own Kayah Sausage Pizza. But, he said, he will stay faithful to the recipes of traditional local favorites such as hin htote, the ever-popular rice dumpling steamed in banana leaf.

Keinnara Loikaw pool

Loikaw is the state capital of Kayah, located in eastern Myanmar close to the Thai border. Among the numerous indigenous groups in the region is the Kayan, renowned for their “long-neck” women who wear brass coils around their necks and colorful traditional costumes.

As Myanmar continues to reach out to international tourists, Loikaw has become one of the newest destinations to become accessible. In addition to daily flights from Yangon to Loikaw on national carrier MNA, Air Kanbawza also operates a thrice-weekly service between Loikaw and Heho Airport, which links to Inle Lake and its famous floating gardens.

A traditional Kayan girl

At 884 meters above sea level, Loikaw offers a springtime climate with average high temperatures between 26 °C in December and 33 °C in April. Peppered by pagoda-topped hills and stunning rural scenery, the town is tipped as one of the country’s future tourism hotspots. In January this year, Balloons Over Bagan, also an arm of Memories Group, launched hot-air balloon flights in Kayah State. The service recommences in January 2020 under the name Balloon Safaris Loikaw.

Keinnara Loikaw amazing sunset

Keinnara Lodge Loikaw is part of The Memories Group, which owns and operates several resorts and activities in Myanmar , including sailing, yachting, 5-star hotels and rustic boutique lodges. For bookings or inquiries, contact Memories Group: info@memoriesgroup.com

The post Keinnara Lodge Launches First Western Menu in Loikaw appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Wellness rituals are sensorial journeys that showcase local heritage using native ingredients and traditional massage techniques perfected over centuries. With over 1,100 hotels and resorts in Asia Pacific, Accor offers a vast collection of rejuvenating spa treatments that are both calming and relaxing for discerning travellers. From Singapore, China, Myanmar, Thailand, the Maldives, India and Australia, these seven locally-inspired rituals advocate the goodness of natural healing therapies, while serving as an amazing window for travellers to experience a taste of the traditions of each destination.

“Our guests are increasingly looking for spa treatments that draw on the rituals and mythology of the destinations in which they are travelling,” said Spa Manager of award-winning luxury Swiss Spa, Pürovel Spa & Sport, Ms Elva Zhao. “It is as much about relaxing and rejuvenating the body as it is about learning new experiences and understanding cultures and traditions. Ancient customs and ingredients play a key role in soothing away the stresses of the modern traveller and allow our guests to take a step back from the tensions of today’s busy world.”

1. SINGAPORE MASSAGE AT SWISSÔTEL MERCHANT COURT, SINGAPORE

At Swissôtel Merchant Court, Singapore guests can enjoy a spectacular 90-minute spa treatment drawing on Singapore’s multi-cultural heritage. Specifically designed to expel fatigue, daily stresses and tensions, the Singapore Massage focuses on rebalancing energies for the mind and soul. Utilising Chinese, Malay and Indian massage techniques that represent the cultural mix of Singapore, this treatment culminates with the elimination of body heat, which is achieved by stimulating the foot’s reflex zones.

2. WHITE FLANNEL FLOWER SANCTUARY RITUAL AT FAIRMONT RESORT & SPA BLUE MOUNTAINS, MGALLERY BY SOFITEL, AUSTRALIA

Standing at the edge of the World Heritage-Listed Blue Mountains, Ubika Day Spa’s treatments are inspired by the seasons and the native wildlife of Australia. The spa menu is designed to hydrate, nourish, restore and regenerate for holistic wellbeing. The White Flannel Flower Sanctuary Ritual is a signature head-to-toe degustation experience that pays tribute to the beauty of the bush. The 105-minute full-body sensory journey includes an Organic Coconut & Jasmine Body Polish, Australian White Flannel Floral Hydrating Cocoon, Baobab & Neroli Facial Massage, Double Face Masque infusion, Peptide+ Multi-Action Serum, Full Body White Flannel Flower Soufflé, and Foot Restoration Massage to leave you feeling completely restored. 

3. TRADITIONAL BAMBOO TREATMENTS AT FAIRMONT PEACE HOTEL, SHANGHAI, CHINA

Commonly used by the ancient Chinese to clear negative energy and enhance energy flow, Bamboo has been lauded in traditional Chinese medicine for centuries. The Signature Bamboo Massage is exclusive to the Willow Stream Spa in Shanghai’s Fairmont Peace Hotel. Using five different Chinese herbs, the bamboo shoots are heated to allow heat from the plant to soothe sore, tight muscles while Chinese herbs are used to stimulate blood circulation and warm the body. Complemented by long relaxing strokes, this treatment will leave guests feeling completely rejuvenated.

4. SERENITY OF THE FIVE ELEMENTS AT SO SOFITEL BANGKOK, THAILAND

Serenity of the Five Elements is a 90-minute soothing spa ritual based on the five elements of Wood, Earth, Water, Fire and Metal as well as the renowned Thai folk wisdom treatment called “Tok Sen” to balance all five senses. Tok Sen is an ancient massage technique indigenous to the Lanna region of Northern Thailand and handed down over generations. This ‘tapping of the meridians’ helps to restore the body’s natural balance.

In this treatment, Ytsara aromatherapy oil, which represents the water element is applied all over the body and gently pressed with a warm herbal poultice. Heat from the poultice represents the fire element, while therapeutic herbs represent the earth. A small Tok Sen hammer, representing the wood element is used to tap all over the body to generate deep vibrations to release wind in the body. The treatment concludes with a body massage using metal balls, which represent metal, to create a soothing and calming effect on the body and mind.

5. THANAKA SPA TREATMENT AT SOFITEL INLE LAKE MYAT MIN, MYANMAR

Rejuvenate with the signature Thanaka Spa Treatment at Sofitel Inle Lake. Known as ‘white gold’ to the locals, Thanaka is widely used in wellness rituals. A creamy white paste made from finely ground bark of the Thanaka tree with water, the paste is popularly known for its extensive health benefits and healing properties. With a history dating back some 2,000 years, Thanaka make-up is widely used to help reduce acne scars and acts as a sunblock. The 50-minunte body scrub Thanaka & Rice Glow treatment helps to rejuvenate skin, remove dead skin cells and promote skin revitalization.

6. COCONUT EXPERIENCE AT FAIRMONT MALDIVES SIRRU FEN FUSHI

Inspired by its tropical Maldivian setting, Willow Stream Spa at Fairmont Maldives, Sirru Fen Fushi, is a sanctuary that draws natural healing properties of the five elements – Earth, Air, Fire, Water and Wood – to put guests in sync with nature. All treatments are energised by the mysterious waters of the Indian Ocean and fragrant herbs found in Maldivian gardens to help redefine the spa experience. Integral to the local island culture, carefully curated treatments are underlined by ancient Ayurveda aromatherapy from subtle energies and the Kerstin Florian spa range for a rejuvenating sensory journey.

A complete local Maldivian treat, Coconut Experience uses the fruit to soothe, calm and balance. The treatment starts with an invigorating full-body coconut exfoliation followed by a pampering back, neck and shoulder massage using coconut oil extracted from a local plantation and ends with the healing properties of the warm stones. To complete this head-to-toe ritual, nourish and relax inside a warm cocoon with a luxurious foot and pressure point scalp massage.

7. NIRMAL SNAN AT FAIRMONT JAIPUR, INDIA

Using traditional ingredients like Ubtan, gram flour, saffron, almond powder, raw turmeric as well as sandalwood powder, the Nirmal Snan treatment offers nourishing goodness to help soothe and calm the body and soul. Ubtan, better known as fuller’s earth, is a clay paste hugely popular in India for its healing and cleansing properties. Massaging Ubtan onto the skin relaxes the body and takes the mind off daily tensions. In addition, turmeric is an antioxidant that acts as a mild counter to depression and anxiety. During the treatment, live music will also be played to enhance the experience, making it fit for royalty.

For more information and bookings, please visit: www.accor.com

The post BEYOND A MASSAGE: SEVEN WELLNESS RITUALS appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Secret Cruise takes guests from Borneo and Indonesia to the fabled Mekong and Irrawaddy Rivers. Secret Retreats, a collection of nearly 100 independently owned boutique hotels, restaurants and cruises, offers unique opportunities to voyage Asian waters far from the usual cruising.

Secret Cruises curated collection of vessels combines the epitome of luxury travel with exclusive discovery encountering simple villages along timeless waterways, exploring deserted tropical islands and navigating lush rainforests teeming with wildlife.

Rahai’i Pangun

Jungle cruises in Borneo: voyage three different Kalimantan Rivers aboard a choice of vessels operated by WOW Borneo. By working with local Dayak people, the cruises offer an intimate encounter with Kalimantan’s forests, wildlife (including an orangutan rehabilitation sanctuary), black water lake systems and traditional villages.

A fleet of four vessels offers options for private charter or join-in cruises:

The Spirit of Kalimantan is a traditional Kalimantan barge with three cabins available for private charter.

Ruhui Rahayu

Ruhui Rahayu is a rustic 22-metre long boat with just one cabin.

Sekonyer, launched in August 2017, is a converted traditional local klotok vessel with three luxurious air conditioned cabins and a sublime upper viewing deck used for join-in cruises.

Rahai’s Pangun is a converted traditional river boat with six cabins also for group cruising.

Alila Purnama

For discovering fabled historic and spiritual sites like Wat Phou in Laos, Angkor Wat in Cambodia and Bagan in Myanmar, Secret Retreats offers a fleet of four vessels for voyages along both Asian Mighty Rivers the Mekong and the Irrawaddy:

·      Designed to reflect the British colonial spirit of India with its hand painted walls and Hindu motifs, The Jahan cruises between Saigon and Siem Reap, home to the world famous Angkor Wat. Featuring a sundeck with large Jacuzzi, spa, gym, observatory, elegant lounge, restaurant and outdoor bar, each of the 26 cabins has its own private balcony.

·

The Jahan

On a leisurely 3-day Mekong journey between Pakse and Champasak in Southern Laos, The Vat Phou bears witness to one of the region’s most remarkable treasures, the UNESCO-recognised Wat Phou Temple, considered the birthplace of Khmer architecture. Featuring 12 cabins, the river cruise passes through timeless landscapes, including the stunning “4,000 Islands” and Southeast Asia’s largest waterfalls at Pha Pheng.

·      Along the northern reaches of the Mekong, the custom built luxury river boat Luang Say cruises between Huay Xai and Luang Prabang on a two-day voyage with overnight accommodation in Laotian riverbank bungalows at Luang Say Lodge. The journey includes stops at villages to discover how local handicrafts and rice whiskey are made, as well as Pak Ou Caves, which contain thousands of Buddha images.

The Vat Phou boat

Cruising between the fabled plain of temples of Bagan and Mandalay, the elegant 23-cabin Anawrahta offers the finest onboard experience along Myanmar’s Irrawaddy. Built to resemble a British colonial paddle steamer, the vessel takes guests back in time to an era of bygone elegance, with gleaming white rails, polished lacquer and intricate woodwork.

Sailing through the Indonesian archipelago is a true adventurewith mostly private charters where itineraries can be tailored according to personal interests. Secret Cruises offers five options to explore Eastern Indonesia:

·         The 5-cabin Silolona and 3-cabin Si Datu Bua are converted traditional

Silolona

Indonesian phinisi boats, as sailed by the Bugis seafarers from south Sulawesi. Complete with exquisite culinary experiences and a well-equipped dive facility, they cruise East Indonesia from April to November, and up in the Andaman archipelago from December to March.

·         Alila Purnama is a luxurious 5-cabin phinisi providing modern and elegant accommodation for up to ten passengers for cruising around Komodo, Flores, Raja Ampat…

·         Blending authentic Indonesian tradition with contemporary allure designed by a French interior architect, the 7-cabin magnificent 32-metre yacht Nyaman Perjuangan was launched in May 2017, cruising around Komodo National Park. 

·         Salila Expeditions offer adventure seekers seafaring voyages through remote parts of Indonesia in the comfort of a luxury private 10-cabin yacht, from Flores in the Lesser Sunda Islands laden with beaches, to the aromatic ‘Spice Islands’ of the Moluccas, famous for their nutmeg, cloves and mace.

“Secret Cruises define a new way to explore Asia. With the complete privacy of chartered yachts, soft adventure experiences and exploration of remote areas, they offer unique experiences for guests far from the well-trodden tourist trails,” says Secret Retreats Managing Director Stéphane Junca.

Staff on the Pak Ou

Complete conditions and schedules for all cruises are available on https://www.secret-retreats.com/cruises

or through the Secret Retreats Concierge team: dream@secret-retreats.com.

 About Secret Retreats:

Secret Retreats is a collection of unique properties and experiences – including boutique hotels, villas, cruises, restaurants and exclusive itineraries – throughout Asia. It is a community built by independent owners and chefs to share resources and ideas. Together, we offer our guests authentic travel experiences that go beyond typical offerings to connect to the very heart of Asian culture and traditions. Secret Retreats Members are vibrant advocates of their surroundings and passionate about sharing special moments with travellers curious to discover the “essence of Asia”. All properties, experiences and journeys also emphasize supporting local communities, environments and sustainability efforts in which they are based to ensure continued opportunities for both locals and travellers for years to come. Learn more at www.secret-retreats.com.

The post Explore remote paradises with Secret Retreats appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

We wake up early and head to the Hsipaw market to have breakfast in a small shop that sells black tea and chapatis with curry. Hsipaw is not the semi-deserted village we had imagined, but a small town of 30,000 people! While we fill our bellies, we discuss on how to spend the day, finally deciding to dedicate it to nature with a trek to the waterfall we have been told about.

We start a steady walk towards the hills and approach Hsipaw train station where we cross tracks flooded with people, cows and children. We then walk through small Shan villages where people greets us showing polite and friendly manners; the path that leads us across the rice fields and towards the waterfall is getting smaller as the scenery gets more and more rural. It’s pretty obvious that Hsipaw is an important agricultural center: there are rice paddies, watermelons and papaya plantations, carrots and cauliflower fields. Nearby a tractor and a heap of corn, we make a break and socialize with a family of peasant that is resting under a wood and bamboo hut. The family men share a cheroots with us, and we manage to take pictures of their two kids that are watching us with curiosity, going crazy with joy when we show them their photos on the camera screen. Their alleged mother is having a shower dressed in a lungy sarong in the creek nearby, and laughs amused at the scene. The rest of the path is uphill until we reach an impressive waterfall with a pond below where we treat ourselves to a bath of cool, clear water that restores our strength after the two-hour walk under the sun. From there we have a beautiful view of the valleys below; at their edges, the houses of Hsipaw.

On the way back we get a lift from a farmer carrying corn in the tractor trailer; we sit on the hard yellow pile, our body stoically bearing the hits the trailer gets due to the road potholes. We get off at the train station, where they are expecting the regional 3pm train that travels from Mandalay to Lashio, a city 100 kilometers from the border with China. This train, as all trains coming from Pyin U Lwin, had to cross the Gokteik Viaduct, the most significant artifact of this rail line, as well as the highest bridge in Myanmar. Completed in 1900, it is said that it was built to last 100 years, and this means it is lasting longer than expected; in fact the trains run through it at a very limited speed in order to avoid causing structural damage. A good reason perhaps to get to Hsipaw by bus…

There are groups of all races waiting for the convoy, in addition to fruit, betel and tea merchants, and a pair of permanent stalls that sell biscuits, coffee and snacks, where I make the acquaintance of one of the owners. She’s a nice middle-aged lady with the face smeared with tanaka powder; while eating betel leaves, she tells me that she is a Catholic and she still remembers a little Italian from the nun’s boarding school! Her daughter (or granddaughter), a small girl of about three years old with shaven head, painted nails and toes, her face also stained by tanaka powder, is sitting on a step eating an ice cream with her fingers and looking at us with amusement. And as time passes and 3pm passes as well, I explore the station, entering a colonial office that reminds me of the Indian train stations built in the 1800’s by the East Indian Railway Company, with the walls of wooden planks varnished in a cream colour, the iron furniture rusty from the tropical climate, the spinning old and noisy fan, the timetables written in white chalk on blackboards hanging from uncertain nails, and a servant in white shirt, linen trousers and flip-flops who counts U.S. dollars and notes the amounts with a pen under the ‘revenue’ column of a faded brown paper register. If it were not for the dollars and the ball-point pen, it could really be a scene from more than a century ago. Amongst the boards on the walls, all written in Burmese language incomprehensible to me, and next to a wall clock that clearly marks 3,20pm, there is the only sign in English, and it states “we will always be on time”…

The walk back to town takes us along suburban narrow streets where artisans work wood and handbags, and manufacture cheroots cigarettes. We come across a noodle factory where young workers produce, by hand, sort of spaghetti that will be part of two of the most famous dishes in the area: Mohinga, a fish soup with noodles that is an essential part of the Myanmar cuisine and that is considered by many to be the national dish of Myanmar, and Shan noodles, a traditional dish of the Shan people! At the Hindu temple we contemplate a joyful and skilled pagodas maker in the middle of a new work, red brick over red brick. Mr Ashà, given our interest in his work, invites us to drink a cup of tea in the nearby shack where, seated at a table, he tells us the story of his life, from mischievous child in India to pagodas maker in Myanmar, proudly listing the names and locations of all the pagodas he has built during his career.

The main street is now overrun by locals with their rickety scooters; we pass besides 3 children monks in burgundy robes with replicas of automatic pistols and shotguns proudly showing on their shoulder, an  incongruous sight that puzzles us a bit. We look at them puzzled, and accompanied by the their distant smiles we continue walking towards a Buddhist temple where the ordination of a large group of nuns is taking place. Hundreds of them are sitting in the large temple hall, dressed in pink robes, their head shaved; they recite mantras or listen to the sermons of an important-looking priest. The religious chants are mixed with the noise of the outside traffic; the night is falling.

The Hollywood action movie we watch on a 13-inch TV hanging precariously from a TV wall mount in a shack that serves roti and beans, the only dish on the menu, reminds us that a couple of days in Hsipaw are more than enough for our tastes.

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We leave Mandalay reluctantly but with the desire to explore what here they branded ‘the way to China’. The bus is comfortable, it ventures into the hills and soon reaches the colonial town of Pyin Oo Lwin, where the British colonizers lived when Mandalay’s heat became too oppressive. We stop for a quick meal break and then set off again towards Hsipaw, described by the guide as “a peaceful stopover”. After about three hours of travelling we approach a series of uphill hairpin turns where a truck that has rolled over a few bends higher forces our minivan to join an endless column of trucks carrying boulders, logs, sand, scaffolding, bulldozers and bricks (it appears that the construction industry is in vogue in Myanmar), sometimes alternating with pick-ups full of passengers and merchandise, as well as some cars. The darkness comes early and it is pitch dark; the vehicles in column form a strip of lights that move at alternate gaps and only in one direction: the north. Sometimes we follow local passengers who get off curious, or to smoke a cigarette or take a needed break when the waiting gets too much; they talk animatedly about the incident, creating small groups with drivers and passengers of other vehicles, and then get on in a hurry when the tail seems to move and drivers call passengers out loud and set the vehicles in motion.

A series of checkpoints and less than 7 hours later, we are approaching Hsipaw, a Shan ethnic outpost. A large village with a ghost appearance: wooden houses, closed taverns and shops, a few Chinese-looking characters, dark-skinned, almond-shaped eyed. It’s definitely chilly out here. After wandering along a pair of long, dark and deserted streets that correspond to the village ‘center’, we settle into a wooden guest house modelled like a Swiss chalet, only slightly less luxurious … It is 10pm, we calm our hunger in the little place nearby where a family of Nepalis (gift of the British colonial era) serves tea and Indians chapati to a mixed clientele of Shan, Indians, Muslims and Burmese. We sit on ultra low wooden stools and we enjoy black tea and chapati while observing the comings and goings of people. It’s amazing how many different races and ethnicities live together in this dusty village. The cold intensifies, as well as the tiredness. The shower is cold but the bed is made ​​warm by a thick wool blanket.

The good morning is at 7am; it is still cold. We get out to explore the village and discover that it looks totally different than the night before: it is total chaos, with trucks that share the roads with bicycles, merchants, kiosks, mechanics, pedestrians and tourists. The sidewalks are broken off or uprooted, holes are frequent and large, the cobbled paths alternate with stretches of poorly cemented areas, making a simple walk an endeavour. A thick cloud of dust perennially rises from the potholed streets and makes the village look immersed in fog; a vaporous smoke comes out of the mouth while we breathe , but the sun is already dissipating moisture and warming the air. After breakfast we decide to head down to the river in search of something to do. We pass the market and reach a residential area of ​​small houses and cabins overlooking the river. We somehow socialize and communicate with those we meet, who try as hard as they can to understand exactly what we want and to help us, whatever the need. The Dokhtawady River is clean and its waters clear, but it is said that his currents are really dangerous; the locals tells of malicious nats (spirits) that attract swimmers towards certain death.

We are finally able to agree on a boat ride with the wife of a boatman, who does not seem to like the idea of ​​interrupting his meal, but who nevertheless accepts, changes and proudly lowers his 10-meter boat in the water. We navigate upriver for a few kilometers observing rural life, farmers, ruminating buffaloes pulling plows, paddy fields, kids running around or bathing in the calm waters. The boatman makes a stop after four kilometers and takes us to visit, on foot, a village built on the banks of the river: wooden houses made of stone or bamboo where women cook, wash clothes or clean the cobs and men build walls or artifacts made ​​of bamboo or thatch roofs. There is calm, order and cleanliness in the village dirt roads, and all the villagers greet us as we pass.

our boatman

Once back on the boat, we continue upriver up to kilometer 7, in the vicinity of an iron bridge, where our guide reverses the boat and starts the journey back. We get off three kilometers from Hsipaw in order to take a walk and enjoy the place in quietness. We say goodbye to the nice boatman and walk along a path that runs along the bank of the river. We make a couple of stops, one to eat a bowl of noodles artfully prepared by a woman who runs an improvised kiosk: the bamboo pagoda where we eat was built literally ‘on the river’, while the kitchen she uses is the one at home, just a bit higher on the hill behind. On the outskirts of Hsipaw, at about five o’clock , we walk past a temple that houses a school for monks where we witness the end of the classes; we join the ranks of children monks returning to their homes. The traffic becomes more intense as we enter the village, and the dust is the host . The day was hot yet it was cooled by a nice river breeze.

We spend the evening strolling along the central Namtu Road, where until the late hours of 9pm (!) Locals and tourists dine in the many restaurants of this street. We enjoy a plate of Shan noodles from Mr.Food, a bit for the name and a bit because it advertises draught Dagon beer. Mr.Food is just one of the many shops that follow Hsipaw Mr. craze. We are staying at Mr.Kid Guesthouse, we saw Mr.Charles Guesthouse, Mr.Book’s library, Mr.Shake fruit juices maker and other Mr. I can not remember the name. It seems that the inhabitants of Hsipaw think that we foreigners like these cute and unusual names they give to their businesses, and it also seems that their marketing strategy works…

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pagoda meeting

I sleep 11 hours in a row and I do not even hear the 5am litany. After a breakfast of homemade cookies and tea in a Chinese teahouse, we walk towards the temple of Prie Jé, a half hour walk from Namshan direction south, where they celebrate the last day of the Kahtain festival. We cross a lovely hilly area with wooden houses surrounded by flower gardens and well-cared for vegetable gardens. The locals greet us joyful, some children are playing with colorful kites that fill the sky in this brilliant day.

I entertain a conversation with a barber originating from Bangladesh who is inclined to talk politics; he tells me that Burmese people in general are still suspicious of the moves of the central government, which according to him has a hidden agenda despite the recent openings. The natural reserves are sold to China, which finances a harbor area in the Burmese coast, a gas pipeline and an oil pipeline that will reach Kumming in southern China, as well as a hydroelectric plant in the Burmese Himalayan regions where local people are organizing protests against exploitation.

He tells me how his family moved to Yangon during the war with the British in the 40s, then moved here in the state of Shan to open stores. He claims that he has never been granted nationality in Myanmar and eventually lost that of his country, so after the independence of Bangladesh in 1964, his family was not able to return home. He says he’s still stateless. While he is cutting the hair of a young Shan boy, the scissors opens in two and fall to the ground; we all laugh a lot. “See? China buys good resources and sell us cheap merchandise, like the scooters, which are often so poorly built that it is not worth repairing them” he comments, amused. He believes that China is doing a roaring trade in these parts, that the recent tendency of the government to open is only temporary and that things will go back to worse. I say goodbye and thank him for the chat.

Preparing decorations

We then continue our journey; the are a lot of people in procession towards the temple hill, amongst them are several elderlies with original faces, proud smiles and clothes for the occasion. Everyone smiles as we pass, and some groups of young people even attempt an approach with what little English they can show off. Upon our arrival at the temple, ceremonies have already started. There are traders who sell food and various amulets, as well as offerings for the monks; the elderlies wear costumes that recall the tribal people of the past, but they do so with such a simplicity that leads me to think that they are just their everyday clothes.

The Kahtain festival is celebrated once a year, and apart from the opportunity for locals to meet, dance and dress well, its aim is to make offerings to the monks and nuns of the various villages. Money, blankets and other items that the monks may need are offered by each participant in an humble way. We immediately meet Shandi, one of two ‘guides’ we got to know in Namhsan, and he invites us into a hut where a group of villagers are enjoying a meal of spicy-looking food sitting cross-legged on a carpet of colorful fabrics. We sit and are served plate to fill by drawing from common bowls in the middle of the carpet. The curries are delicious and they taste amazing. The villagers make us feel at ease, watching us but in a much less curious way than we do watch them. We drink tea, as usual, and Shandi tells us about some of the customs of the area and about the importance of today’s festival, insisting that we take pictures of everything we see.

We take leave and go out to snoop between the various activities of the temple. In different buildings, people pray, eat, chat, play. The environment is austere, this is certainly not wealthy people, but their authenticity and their apparent honesty conceals it all with a solemnity that seems to make up for the lack of material wealth. Some monks and nuns give their blessing to all those gathered, while others give public speeches focused on the happiness and prosperity that this event will bring to the peoples of the area. We are completely absorbed in these rituals; the path to reach Namhsan and yesterday’s mud and rain are light-years away.

village view

Shandi is about to leave and invites us to visit his village, a few minutes from the temple. We get there in 15 minutes of walking between stairs and descents, accompanied by leafy trees branches several meters long that shade us in part from the rays of a scorching sun. At the bottom of the hill there is an open space crowned by a forest of white pagodas: it is the village temple. There, on the upper floors of solid wood houses on stilts, old men are preparing giant burners with bamboo branches, pine twigs and incense, covering them with huge sheets of colored paper hand-produced there. These burners will burn for hours and hours during the evening closing ceremonies.

We then follow our friend down to a picturesque village of wooden houses on stilts distributed along a main road, like the rest of the villages surrounded by mountains and valleys. His house entrance leads to a large area room that serves as living room and kitchen; the floor is made of earth, the walls are covered with cheap made-in-China plastic sheets, and the wooden planks sofas provide us with some rest while Shandi sends the daughter ‘shopping’ . I get out from the house and follow her with my sight: she enters a couple of neighbours’ homes and comes out with a variety of vegetables, then she returns and engages in the creation, on a rusted stove and pots that have fed generations, of a Palaung curry with rice and fried vegetables, delicious to say the least . She looks at us for a bit while we eat at a wobbly table of rotten wood, and then sets off to watch Thai karaoke at high volume in the one and only electronic element of the whole house: a flat-screen TV that we did not notice before as it was covered by a thick wool curtain! We drink tea while outside a violent downpour has made its way into a sky that until shortly before was clear.

villagers at festival

Once the rain nearly stops, Shandi insists to find us a ride to Namhsan in a borrowed scooter, but he also informs us that soon a bus will pass so we decide to wait. The bus arrives after five minutes, and to say its conditions are poor is an understatement. Inside, the floor is literally covered with compact jute sacks full of dried tea that emit a pungent odor even though all the windows are open, broken or missing. Tea, tea and more tea, life in Namhsan hovers in every way around this drink. The seats of the bus have been unbolted and laid on top of the bags; on them, a group of guys who work in the tea factory are seated, jumping at each hole that the rundown bus hits thanks to nonexistent shock absorbers. We prefer to sit on the bags, which seem far more comfortable; the boys and the bus driver watch us amused while we suffer the inclement blows. The road winds through the hills and seems much longer than the path we walked on foot to get to the village; through the windows we can see two gas stations (we did not yet seen any and wondered how the locals got gasoline supplies), ironically situated alongside one another. We get off on the outskirts of Namhsan, right at a junction where a column of young soldiers is passing: they are ill-equipped with shorts and canvas green shoes, rifles and other heavy weapons and ammunition hanging on their shoulder or by their bodies. They march towards the country: government patrols in charge of hunting the woods for Shan liberation armies, they travel on foot for hundreds of miles across these inaccessible lands, and, on top of that, they are not at all welcomed by the local people who look at them with anger as they pass by. They are faces of different features and looks disconsolate. I pity them: imagine them while getting ambushed by a group of well-armed Shan soldiers accustomed to this climate and to these surroundings, and much more motivated than them.

The sun shines again but not for long. I stop to write my diary in the tea room where they have satellite TV; there, the usual frenetic zapping goes from football to music to documentaries, with the latter that seem to have the upper hand. When I get out the sun has already set and the road is lit by hundreds of candles; the kids have fun with their harmless firecrackers and the sky lights up with a myriad of prayer lanterns launched from various points of the village. At the monastery nearby our accommodation, children monks play around the beautiful stupa, lighting candles and making drawings with them: hearts, letters, animals; they chase each other happily. The full moon lights up the night, the locals pour into the streets, while fleecy clouds slowly run through the sky. It is a special evening in Namhsan, unfortunately the last one for us.

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tribal villagers

After leaving Mandalay in direction north-east, we had a pit-stop of a few days in Hsipaw, a small outpost town situated on the way to China and populated by people belonging to ethnic Shan. It is now time to leave for further traveling.

The alarm clock sets off early, we pack our backpacks and since it’s still early we decide to have breakfast at a place near the market, where they serve us watered-down coffee and oily but tasty pancakes. On the way back to the guesthouse, the pick-up van is waiting for us; we get on at the back of the vehicle, which is already full with people and sacks of wares, and undertake the journey to Namshan. The truck climbs on a road only half-asphalted. The journey becomes more and more interesting as we move away from Hsipaw: villages become scarce and people ethnicity changes. The asphalt at some point disappears completely, dust invades the cabin and we begin to see villages that are increasingly more primitive, inhabited by dark-skinned people with mainly Chinese features. We arrive at destination after a 7-hours ordeal (for merely 80 km…), after enduring hundreds of jumps and swings on roads that often turn into stone paths. The body hurts and is in urgent need of a shower and of a glass of water.

tribal villager

Despite this, I can assure you it the trip was worth it: mountains and mountains right in the heart of Myanmar, hills crowned with villages set in deep jungles, bamboo forests, tea plantations. At the bottom of the river, rice paddies of a ocher-yellow are in deep contrast with the heavy green of the surroundings and with the murky brown waters.

The sleeping village of Namshan, once the capital of the ancient Shan Kingdom of Tawngpeng, is perched on mountains at an elevation range of 1800-2000 meters above sea level, and therefore acts as a lookout into a series of peaks and hills that surround it. Some of these hills are covered with tea plantations, other with poppies plantations, these more discreetly hidden from view… The tea industry is the major resource in the area and provides employment for several of the inhabitants of Namshan and of the surrounding sleeping villages, friendly Shwe (Golden) Palaung people living in one- or two-floors wooden houses covered by rusty metal sheet roofs. The ‘Golden’ comes from the belts they used to wear. Other traditional belts worn by this ethnic group used to be made ​​of silver; today, aluminum belts has long taken their place. Namshan also has a minority of Kayin, Lisu and Shan ethnic and tribal groups, as well as people of Indian and Chinese origins. Namshan means ‘shaking water’, named so after its location on a marsh that was often flooded during the rainy season. The heydays of Namshan were in the 1920-1930 period, when it prospered thanks to its silver mines and its tea industry.

Girl with tanaka

At destination, we drop our backpacks in the only guesthouse in the area, located on the main road: a large two-story wooden Chinese-style mansion painted in green and run by government officials. We rent a room built entirely of wood, small in size and with outside bathroom, and with a window overlooking the rear of the property; we satisfy our basic needs and get out to explore the surroundings. It is 3pm, and the sun is already setting behind the mountain peaks. Namshan is basically a wide main road on the crest of a mountain; down on its sides one can see green valleys and views of the villages below. It is certainly larger and more picturesque than what we had imagined. Locals look at us with a hint of curiosity, giving us a mengalaba (hallo) when we cross them.

We are soon approached by two local ‘guides’ who invite us to drink tea in one of the traditional teahouses of the village. This seems to be one of the favorite activities of the villagers. You sit in low stools by a plank-wood table, you are served a plastic thermos flask plugged by a cork that keeps the warmth and freshness of the dark beverage it contains:  Le Peyé. The teahouse is dark; teapots, dishes, plates, walls and the counter are covered by a soot formed by the wood-fire that burns at all times in order to heat the water that will fill the jugs of tea. The flat screen television (!) is under the control of one of the patrons who practices the international habit of zapping, passing from news to documentaries, to sports and soap operas, in a never-ending change of channels at 5 minutes intervals which leaves no time to become interested enough to one of the programs.

We then follow our new friends for a short walk to a lookout point at the top of a hill, where we watch a great sunset. We socialize with them, asking curious questions while our cameras immortalize the magic colors of a spectacular sky.

Shan Woman

From the conversations we discover that Namshan is in fact a conflictive area and that the village marks the end of where travel is allowed to foreigners. For years, the warriors of the Shan Liberation Front have been fighting a more psychological than real battle with central government soldiers. These reprisals provoke tensions which often result in bans to visit this region, with the government applying the off-limit to the trekking routes for obvious risks of retaliation towards foreigners. Despite this, our two new friends are more than inclined to chat, and to help us in our search for areas to discover. The main reason that pushed us this far is that Namshan is a great starting point for trekking in the area, and also because it is fairly unbeaten by tourists due to the terrible conditions of the roads that reach it. The streets are problematic especially during tea harvesting, taking place between April and August, when the route to Namshan is often blocked by trucks overloaded and so heavy that they get stuck in the wet earth.

One of the two ‘guides’ has to leave us; we invite the other, affable Samir, to eat dinner at a restaurant run by Chinese people, where he recommends a delicious bowl of spicy-hot Shan Noodles, the traditional dish of the area. We later stroll up to his house, not far away, where his wife prepares us for a cup of tea (for a change) and he pulls out a guitar that we play in turn, singing songs and chatting about everything and nothing. After an hour or so we take leave; the main street is dark and almost deserted, the temperature is pleasant, with a fresh breeze that comes from the mountains. An aura of mystery surrounds Namshan at this time of night; it’s only 8pm but the place is already silent, shops and restaurants have shut their doors, and so have tearooms. Here people go to bed early.

We are tired but satisfied. Tomorrow we will start exploring the mountains. Namshan was just the place we were looking for; here all attempts of contacting the outside world are futile. We comment the day while the temperature drops, we cover with the heavy blankets provided and doze off.

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Inle lin kin boy buffalo

Today I wish to rely mainly on fate and chance, as I often do when I travel. I fill the daily backpack with snacks and fruit from the market and I walk towards the distant village of Inthein, in the south-western side of the lake. I want to be positive and hope to reach it, but I am not so sure since the roads marked on my map are not very clear. After only a 10-minute walk on a peaceful country road, I raise my hand to hitchhike and stop a young man on a moped that has seen better times; he accepts to give me a ride without much fuss and takes me all the way to the hot springs where I was yesterday. From here I start walking again, with the lake and the countryside to my left, and the mountains topped with white clouds to my right.

After a 5-minute walk during which I absorb the surrounding beauty, another young man on a motorbike stops without even the need of raising my thumb. He is well-dressed; his English is poor, but we somehow understand each other and he invites me to get on his new vehicle; he looks so proud of it! He continues to turn towards me and talk while driving; the scooter lifts a tremendous amount of dust that enters in my throat, plus I do not understand anything of what he says. When he realizes that that my intention is to reach Inthein, he stops the bike and bursts out in a non-offensive laughter. He tries to explain that there are at least another 15 miles of dusty road and no public transport to get there. I tell him it does not matter, not to worry, and I motion him to continue the drive. We pass the village of Kaung Daing and finally arrive at the entrance of his village, Kin Lin. He stops at the junction with the main road, where I get off the bike and thank him. He gives me a bewildered look, he tells me he is so sorry that I do not follow him to his village where I could meet his family, and that I do not take his advice not to continue on my quest. He looks at me getting far without moving from the point where he stopped, until I lose sight of him.

I arrive in the proximity of a hotel where I notice a van that is downloading merchandise for the restaurant. I walk in and try to explain myself to the driver and to the owner. It turns out that the truck goes precisely to Inthein to deliver food and drinks! They whisper to each other and shake their heads a little. On the one hand they would like to help, but from what I understand, the young man does not want to take the responsibility to take a foreigner with him. In addition, the owner of the restaurant explains in an English barely understandable that the sky threatens serious rain, and if it does rain, this road would become so muddy that it would be impossible for the boy to get back with his heavy vehicle. I would then be stuck with him, something that does not sit well with the young guy. I completely understand the situation and I do not want to embarrass them any more than I already have. I go out to observe the sky: big, menacing blacks clouds are approaching from all directions. I decide against my will, also given the time of the day, to abandon the mission, and I backtrack.

Inle lin kin monk

Back in Lin Kin, I sit in a teahouse to relax and drink tea Le Peyé (name that locals give to black tea) while I socialize with the owners, their entire family watching me curiously. On the road, a boy riding a buffalo that sports big horns and an enormous dangling penis passes in front of my table. The little boy is about 10 years old and already has the air of an adolescent peasant, with his flip-flops, a hat bigger than his head and a traditional Burmese pouch strapped to his shoulder. We do not know which one of us looks at each other with more curiosity. All around me, glimpses of rural life: cultivated fields, hills planted with fruit trees, nice shacks made ​​of bamboo and roofed with iron sheets. In front of the teahouse I catch a glimpse of the arched entrance of a Buddhist temple. I pay the tea, say goodbye to the friendly family and cross the street.

In the temple courtyard I entertain families of a tribe wearing detailed and colorful clothes and headgears; I take pictures of the kids, which I show them in the small screen of my Canon: they are appalled. Too bad I do not have with me a Polaroid camera that can print pictures on the spot. Further on, a group of young monks in orange robes plays animatedly by rotating rudimentary spinning tops carved out of wood with the help of a rope. Upon my attempt to take a picture of the playground, they drop everything and vanish in a hurry, with worried looks; some, in particular the little ones, have scared expressions and hide inside the temple building, refusing to come out again. The ones on their teens back out from behind the huge trunk of a giant tree where they had taken refuge, look at me with little trust and set back to play, but as soon as I motion to bring the Canon to my eye to shoot a picture, off they vanish again. No pictures – mutters one of them in English. I respect their wish and head to the inside of the temple, where there are people eating, praying and drinking tea. I make friends with those most likely to socialize, I snap some photos of a few young monks and I head back to the main road. I really want to avoid the downpour that is on the way.

I love hitchhiking. Another youngster with nonexistent English takes me to the intersection for Nyaungshwe, and after a few minutes an overweight man on a rickety bike stops to assist. I’m not very confident with this ride, but the clouds are getting closer and closer and I know that it will rain soon, it is just a matter of time. I get on and he leaves; my legs are dangling as there are no passenger footrests, and this is a difficult task along a route where the fat man averages 10 chilometers per hour and seems to want to hit all of the existing holes. Nonetheless, he sports a blissful smile, like a huge contemporary Buddha. We arrive in Nyaungshwe safe and sound, and as the protocol wants, I thank him and he looks so pleased to have been able to help me.

Inle monks and flip flops 2

It was a cheerful trip that gave me the opportunity to mingle with the locals, and I found out that most speak little or no English, that they go out of their ways to help you, and that in them you often notice the desire to confront with foreigners. It is mid-afternoon. I stop at a little restaurant located in a side street, where I eat a mango salad accompanied by a substantial banana lassi drink, as I observe the sky downloading a tropical downpour that in just 15 minutes soaks the village dusty roads.

At the port, the comings and goings of wooden boats that sail the channel is as intense as usual. The sun gains space between the black clouds and hits the west slopes of the mountains. The Inle lake is proving to be a really nice place, a must-visit in a trip to Myanmar. Too bad it will soon be time for me to leave.

READ ALSO PART 1 http://asianitinerary.com/inle-lake-trip-part-1/

READ ALSO PART 2 http://asianitinerary.com/inle-lake-by-bicycle-around-the-lake-part-2/

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Inle phaung daw oo paya

Despite being a tourist town, Nyaungshwe is still the main trading hub for the local villages, as well as the departure point for craft and produce that from the lake get delivered to the rest of the country. Motorized long boats take visitors to tribal villages made of stilt houses, farms and floating gardens, pagodas and floating silk and craft workshops. Most of the buildings on the lake shores are built with stilts on water, and activities are carried out in small rowing boats or long boats that skitter along the canals, carrying people and goods.

The wish to live these situations from near motivates us to rent bicycles from the guesthouse. We ride them with the ardor of kids who have been given a new gift, heading south in search of situations. As soon as we leave the village and cross the bridge over the canal, the chaos of the riverfront disappears, giving way to the peaceful countryside: rice fields, huge ponds populated by lush lotus plants in bloom, buffaloes taking a bath heedless of human presence, farmers who work the land and smile at our slow passage. Not far away, the mountains begin to be lit by a weak morning sun that is becoming more and more intense.

Tractors and motorbikes that transit on the dirt road carelessly raise huge clouds of dust. After about an hour ride we reach Hu Pin Hot Springs in the Intha village of Kaung Daing, known for the production of tofu from yellow beans instead of green. There, we allow ourselves a series of hot and relaxing baths. The hot water comes from a natural source upstream that is diverted into three different tanks downstream, where it is mixed with cold water. The water in the first tank is 70 degrees centigrade – unbearable -, it then becomes quite hot, 50 degrees, in the second tank, only to get to an acceptable 40 degrees in the third tank. It is early and we are the first to enter the hot springs compound; we enjoy the morning stillness and restore bones and muscles tired from cycling. We eat a satisfying meal of lake fish at the hot springs’ restaurant on stilts, and we then start looking for a boat pier on the west side of the lake, direction south.

After a number of negotiations, some characterized by heated discussions on price and destination first with a couple of farmers, then with a group of young people who are loading the boat with huge burlap sacks full of oranges, and finally, a boatman who was leaving empty grant us a ride to the Phaung Dew Oo Paya temple. Between us and the bikes, in a flash we fill the boat. The boatman tells us that it is late and that his is a one-way trip. We do not worry that much and we enjoy the scenic boat journey.

The ride is interesting to say the least; we pass and overcome boats packed with families and large groups of people from the surrounding villages heading to the temple for the annual festival. Today is a special day for Phaung Dew Oo Paya, which is the most important sacred place in the state of South Shan. Inside its multi-roofed pagoda, this colorful temple houses four ancient Buddha images, to which the faithful apply thin gold leaves that over the years have turned these images into amorphous golden masses. Once a year these images, which are normally kept on display in a pavilion inside the pagoda, are taken by a decorated barge on an around-the-lake ceremony.

Upon arrival, under many curious eyes we unload the bikes, lock them to an electricity post in the temple square and begin to enjoy the moment. We missed the main ceremony, but we can still experience part of the festival. There are several local families, some come from nearby villages, others from the surrounding hills. They feature flamboyant clothes and costumes, stones necklaces, amulets, and they bring offerings of food, beverages and golden leaves for the Buddhas. Groups of cheerful youngsters wear traditional peasants clothes and dance and sing, promoting recycling, environmental protection and the importance of education to young people. Improvised stalls sell local food like fried rice, roti, curry and various sweets, as well as balloons and kites for children, and various miniature replicas of relics and of the main pagoda for visitors who wish to take home a souvenir.

We visit the surrounding area and the pagoda interior, where the gilded blobs have been returned after the boat ride around the lake. A walk leads us to the next village where local merchants sell souvenirs of all kinds. On the way back to the pagoda, it is getting dark fast; the sellers withdraw their goods, the pagoda is locked and there is a confusion of people who take boats to go back home. It is immediately evident that it will be hard to find a ride: our bicycles are bulky and they cannot be loaded on boats crammed with people. Moreover, most of those we talk to, articulating as well as we can the name of our destination, Nyaungshwe, try to tell us that they are directed towards other areas. Apparently, the locals do not like to navigate in the dark, and Nyaungshwe is an hour by boat from here. We split to have more chances and in the end, when we are about to give up the search and find a place to sleep in the area, we manage to snatch a yes from a boatman who would take us across the lake, to a village on the east side called Thale -U. I look at my map: there are at least 10 kilometers from Thale -U to Nyaungshwe, something doable if it were not for the pitch darkness and for the fact that we do not know what kind of road we will find. No one in the area speaks English so we rely on fate; we accept the risk and embrace the adventure.

The trip on the lake is mesmerizing: we sail in a silence broken only by the engine of our boat, while the sky is now a huge dark expanse that blends in with the water’s edge of the lake, also black . A few dim lights warn us of villages along the water on the east coast. The boatman drives his primitive vessel and watches us with suspicion. We arrive at a dilapidated bamboo and wood dock on stilts, surrounded and almost entirely invaded by aquatic plants and grasses; we struggle to unload the bicycles on the boardwalk, then pay the ride and thank the boatman, who reverses the boat and leaves us in a movie-like situation. A few stars in the sky, a dog barking in the distance and nothing else. The trail is in front of us, but we do not see it. We proceed cautiously for a few meters, trying to avoid frequent potholes and ruts in the road; how long will we be able to hold at this pace? Perhaps it was not a brilliant idea, it would have been better to spend the night back at the village.

We refuse to get discouraged and after about ten minutes at a steady but slow pace, we come across a house that also functions as a groceries and necessities shop. I make my way in under the shocked look of the owners, a family of farmers very surprised to see a stranger in a bicycle at that time on that path. I purchase a torch, one of those used by speleologists with a rubber band to wear it around the head, along with a blister of batteries. It turns out to be our salvation! We pedal what seems to be a long time in the pitch dark, the only dim light of the made-in-China torch to illuminate our way. The path is uneven, at times made ​​of ups and downs heavy for our legs that have to push old-fashioned bikes with flawed gears.

Along the way, we meet some sporadic scooters and some people who walk in the vicinity of hamlets that comprise a few houses made of wood, bamboo and straw; they all look at us appalled. Not a car, not a bike. The path occasionally becomes a paved road that widens until it ends and returns to be a path, in a succession that seems endless. After more than an hour we pass a couple of luxury hotels built on the banks of the river. We take the opportunity to ask passers-by if the road is the right one, an awkward question as there cannot be other roads. It is more to feel good, to sense that we are moving on in this venture: at first we thought it hard to accomplish, but we are now certain to succeed.

An unexpected enemy comes in the form of a cold air that becomes more and more unbearable. We do not wear suitable clothes, and even though we warm up by cycling, fatigue often causes us to slow down the ride. We reach a shack that serves as a bar-restaurant and we allow for a break, a hot tea and a traditional cigarillo cheroots while we rest legs and bones. Alas we do not know that we still have an hour of pedaling before we reach the destination. We finally arrive late in the evening, exhausted but happy to have lived this adventure. We treat ourselves to dinner at a Nepalese restaurant, where we arrive 10 minutes before closing time, and we comfort ourselves with good memories of the day and with a hot and spicy Masala Tea. It’s cool on the streets of Nyaungshwe, we will sleep well tonight…

Check out info on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hpaung_Daw_U_Pagoda

Read Part 1: http://asianitinerary.asia/inle-lake-trip-part-1/ – and Part 3: http://asianitinerary.asia/inle-lake-hitchhiking-part-3/

The post INLE LAKE – BY BICYCLE AROUND THE LAKE PART 2 appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Inle Lake, located strategically in the heart of Myanmar’s Shan State, is a shore-less expanse of water and marshes 20km long and 10km wide, sitting like a gigantic puddle on a carpet of greenery with reed and hyacinth beds that get denser as they are nearer the shore.

PART 1

Inle house on stilts reflection

The bus from Mandalay gets me to my destination quite early on a cool morning. At 2.30 I am left at the intersection to Nyaungshwe, still far from the lake. I reach the village with a moto-rickshaw, sharing the cold 10km ride with a family of locals and a group of monks that only wear the monk’s outfit: flip flop and orange robe; they look not bothered as a cold wind hits their face and their bare feet, while I try to cover my neck and head with jumper, scarf and bonnet. Entering the Inle Lake area costs to tourists a 5$ government fee, which I pay to a sleepy government official at the entrance of Nyaungshwe. The moto-rickshaw drops me in the center of the village; it is pitch-dark, and there is not a single soul around.

Once a sleeping village, home until the 1960s of the last Shan shy lord, Nyaungshwe, located at the north end of the lake and next to the main canal leading to the lake, is now a bustling center for travelers, with guest houses, restaurants and tour agencies. I take a walk along the grid of roads only to find entrances of guest houses with the sign FULL hanging from locked gates. Finally I find an open house where three friends are watching a European football match live. They are so nice and let me park my rucksacks in the house and lend me a bicycle with which I start the search for a place to sleep.

Inle standing boatman

During the exploration ride I cover at least half of the village, but the result does not change: guest houses and hotels closed and showing a FULL sign. It is with a bit of luck that I address a man that watering the plants in the garden of a guest house on the banks of the canal, whom assures me that at 9 am one of the room gets vacated and that he is willing to give it to us. It’s only 5 am, and the kind manager offers us to sleep on an old mattress under the stairs in the reception basement. We drop our rucksacks there, but the desire to see the place is so strong that as soon as I see the first light of the day, I leave for a photographic walk. On the banks of the canal, early-risers boat drivers equip long and colorful boats that will take locals to the villages surrounding the lake, and tourists to panoramic tours and cultural activities.

The sun has not yet appeared from behind the mountains, but its morning light gives a magical atmosphere to the place. I proceed towards the center of the village, where some residents are already on their ways through the semi-paved roads. Sleepy rickshaw drivers, old men who sweep the dusty roads with brooms made of wood and branches, women who light fires to prepare tasty batter for pancakes and stuffed samosas to be distributed to the market and to tearooms, and numerous people going to the market by walking and cycling. By 6 am the place is already swarming, and I start looking for monasteries; I sneak through the open door of a derelict building from which comes a lullaby, and I’m lucky to find about fifty young nun girls in pink robes singing mantras and eating breakfast. They look at me astonished and embarrassed while I shoot some photos discreetly. Across the street there is a canteen where a hundred cross-legged children monks in brown robes eat on the floor and joke.

Inle selling fish in market

I eventually reach the market, located in the northern part of the village, and I delve into its chaotic streets where a cacophony of sounds fills the air: people haggle, men unload heavy boxes of fruit and vegetables from horse-drawn carts, women in colored clothes and hats sell various types of flowers, a matron with a cigar in her mouth discusses sales price of freshly caught fish from the lake tied to thick lines, while outside the walls of the immense market, dozens of rickshaws and motorcycle rickshaws wait for customers with carrier bags overflowing with groceries, and numerous dogs and chickens forage the dusty streets waiting for food scraps unsold, in a procession that is repeated day after day. I drink Indian tea and eat coconut samosas in an austere corner tea-house from where I observe the comings and goings of people and I write travel notes.

At 7:30, I return to the canal where, as I observe the local boats loading with goods and with tourists, I make the acquaintance of a group of three Chinese photographers who are looking for passengers to split the cost of a boat ride. I run the guest house, I pay the room and reassure the owner that I shall return in the afternoon; I pick up my camera and day backpack and embark for the trip, tired but full of an energy that comes from the great desire to see new places. I thank often in life this traveler spirit that I have; it is the reason of the greatest satisfaction of my existence.

Inle morning market

We leave at 8 am for a long trip that takes us, after 20 minutes of navigation along the canal and then through the lake, to the following stopovers:

–        Firstly, we visit a village of houses made of wood and bamboo on stilts where the family of our young boatman lives; some of these houses have two floors and large terraces where people drink tea and spend part of the day. The people of these water villages move around on wooden boats or motor boats. The family of our boatman offer us tea, cigarettes, cheroots, snacks and a good chat, aided by the translations of their kids whose English is acceptable. We try to use the little Burmese learned from the travel guide. The inclination of locals to make friends is strong, we notice, and we spend in their home longer than expected.

–        We then stop in a village on the shore where there is a market managed by ethnic Pa-O people in traditional costumes who sell handicrafts and fresh vegetables. The market has a dining area where elderly with carved and intriguing faces drink tea and eat spicy curries that release strong odors in the air; some look at us with curiosity and a smile. Tribal ethnic Intha, Shan, Pa-O, Taung Yo, Danu, Kayah and Danaw people populate the villages around the lake shore, and local markets where they congregate are open in turn five days a week.

–        We stop in several locations to watch Intha fishermen get around the waters using a traditional and unique flat-bottom skiff propelled by a single wooden paddle rowed in snake-like motions by a leg wrapped around the paddle. This technique has become the ultimate photo opportunity of the Inle Lake.

–        We make several stops in workshops on stilts and surrounded by floating gardens, where handicrafts such as silk and cotton, woven on antique looms, cigarillos cheroots, herbs and spices, silver and semi-precious stones mounted on rings, necklaces and jewelry are produced. As in the houses earlier on, in each of these workshops we are offered tea, cigarillos cheroots and various snacks, and this is part of the hospitality that characterizes the people in these parts.

–        We visit the Nga Phe Kyaung, a wooden monastery built on stilts in the middle of the lake, famous for its cats trained by monks to jump through small rings.

The sun is blazing hot and we take shelter wearing hats. All around, an infinite number of motor boats transiting in passageways between water hyacinth and floating gardens, through endless rows of houseboats with floating gardens that form real neighborhoods with closed streets and intersections. Burmese and foreign tourists by the thousands visit the wonders of this way of life on water.

We arrive back at 4 pm sufficiently tired after missing a night’s sleep, but full of information and photos and lasting memories. I lie down to rest, but I fall into a deep sleep…

READ ALSO PART 2 http://asianitinerary.com/inle-lake-by-bicycle-around-the-lake-part-2/

READ ALSO PART 3 http://asianitinerary.com/inle-lake-hitchhiking-part-3/

The post INLE LAKE TRIP – Part 1 appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Inle Lake, located strategically in the heart of Myanmar’s Shan State, is a shore-less expanse of water and marshes 20km long and 10km wide, sitting like a gigantic puddle on a carpet of greenery with reed and hyacinth beds that get denser as they are nearer the shore.

Once a sleeping village, home until the 1960s of the last Shan shy lord, Nyaungshwe, located at the north end of the lake and next to the main channel leading to the lake, is now a bustling center for travelers with guest houses, restaurants and tour agencies. Entering the Inle Lake area costs to tourists a 5$ government fee, which we pay at the entrance of Nyaungshwe.

Despite being a tourist town, Nyaungshwe is still the main trading hub for the local villages, and the departure point of crafts and produce from the lake towards the rest of the country. Motorized long boats transport visitors to tribal stilt-house villages, floating farms and gardens, pagodas, and floating silk and craft workshops. In fact, most buildings on the lake are built with stilts on water, and activities are carried out in small rowing boats and long boats that skitter along channels carrying people and goods.

Tribal people Intha, Shan, Pa-O, Taung Yo, Danu, Kayah and Danaw populate the villages around the lake shore, and local markets where they congregate are open in turn five days a week. There is a nice atmosphere in town, with tourists mixing effortlessly with locals.

Intha fishermen get around the waters using a traditional and unique flat-bottom skiff propelled by a single wooden paddle rowed in snake-like motions by a leg wrapped around the paddle. This technique has become the ultimate photo opportunity of the Inle Lake.

Other attractions in the area include the numerous temples that host young monks both boys and girls – most famous and visited of them all the Phang Dew Oo Paya Temple -, hot springs reached by a nice bicycle ride along dust roads flanked by water beds, buffaloes grazing and peaceful locals working the land, and a colourful local market selling food and crafts.

Inle Lake is indeed a must-see destination of your trip to Myanmar!

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The post INLE LAKE – The land of the Intha tribe appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

DAY 2

I had set the alarm clock early in order to take a photo shooting of the local morning market, a few blocks away. There, barely at dawn, you can get a glimpse of ordinary Burmese social life. I covered the distance on foot, witnessing Buddhist worshippers partaking in early morning rituals at local temples, and the timeless processions of barefoot monks of different ages in red and orange robes, collecting offering from the locals inside their alms bowls.

The market area, covering several noisy and smelly blocks to the south of the palace, buzzed with energy and activities as hundreds of stallholders exposed their locally grown produce spread out on both sides of roads: meats, fish, flowers, fruits, veggies, rice and noodle meals, and other items, some never seen before, such as sweets, dried meat and fish, and exotic fruits and spices. Shoppers arriving by rickshaw, on motorbike or on foot negotiated prices and carried their colourful shopping in plastic bags. Monks walked through the market to collect alms or to purchase items needed in their monastery. I stopped at one of the several coffee houses and tucked into a bowl of Shan noodles, a chappati and a dark coffee, rubbing shoulders with the locals.

At 7:30 the sun was rising fast and the traffic on 4 wheels was intensifying: tractors full of vegetables, old trucks carrying iron, wood and people, rusted buses so full with locals returning to nearby villages that some passengers hanged precariously out of their doors, with ticket sellers and drivers shouting names of destinations. Dozens of bicycle rickshaws invaded the streets, waiting for passengers loaded with plastic bags full of food. It was like being at a theatre, and I enjoyed the convulsed sight while sipping another tea in an open-air tea-house, munching on a vegetable samosa, until the sellers started to pack up.

I was on my way again; I wandered aimlessly towards the east, block after block until, along a side road, a young chap in longyi, bare-chested, bold-headed except for a thin and long hair pigtail at the back of the skull, tattooed with Chinese motives and sporting a few short hair growing right in the middle of his right cheek, spotted me and approached to offer me, in an undistinguishable language, a bite of betel, skillfully prepared by his young wife at their derelict roadside stall. I admit I knew very little about betel nut (called kun-ya in Myanmar) apart that it made your teeth red, that it was an appetite suppressant, and that it could get you intoxicated. Oh, I forgot, and that while chewing it, lots of red saliva forms in the mouth and needs to be expelled from time to time. No wonder streets in Mandalay are stained with millions of red blotches.

The guy’s wife held up a vine leaf, laid it on a wooded board and started working on it. She first spread a little lime paste on the leaf, then added cloves, aniseed, cardamom, tobacco marinated in alcohol and some crushed betel nuts. She skillfully wrapped the leaf and handed it to her husband, whom handed it to me, a complacent smile in his face. I put the leaf in my mouth and started chewing on it, and an enormous amount of saliva immediately filled my mouth. I approached the side of the road and spitted the red liquid, with my new friends laughing approvingly. They packed two more pieces for me to take away, and did not want to get paid at all, not even a little tip, bless them. I finished chewing the lot and spit out the remains – after so much spitting it was not fun anymore in the end -, washed the mouth with water, and started walking again. I experienced a slight tipsy feeling and I guessed it was the effect of the betel nut. Not the best amongst legal intoxicants, I though. I later read that chewing betel nut regularly causes oral cancer, a growing problem in Myanmar…

Early that afternoon, I kept on walking the streets of Mandalay in search for the mystic Mustache Brothers. This is the art name of 3 comedian brothers that have been performing political satiric puppet shows for over 30 years. Their shows have often infuriated the totalitarian regime to the point that they have a collection of arrests, years of jail and forced labour (seriously!), and a total ban on performing in public. As a compromise the 3 brothers, now freed, have accepted to perform only in English and just from their home in Mandalay.

I met with Lu Maw, the only English-speaker of the three, whom has hence become the spokesperson for the group. He was spending a quiet afternoon with his wife and nephews and accepted to have an informal chat. We sat on modest chairs and I was offered tea by his wife; I observed the house walls covered with puppets of different size and clothes, political propaganda and framed articles of foreign newspapers and magazines featuring the comedians.

Lu Maw proved to be an affable man, but understandably he did not want to go too much into details about his incarceration and hardship over several years of his life. After a few jokes about the military junta and their intelligence, whom he calls KGB, he suggested I bought a 10$ ticket to his evening show, and kindly saw me to the door. I had heard his shows were very popular amongst tourists, with audiences of between 10 and 50 people each night, all crammed into his small living room.

Sunset approached, and I felt worn out but satisfied of what achieved and seen in the 2 intense days spent in Mandalay, where I met lovely people whose source of happiness seemed to be based on their ability of being contented at all times despite the odds.

It was worth experiencing the magic of Mandalay before the hordes of tourists descend to the town. With new airline connections to the city, and that includes low budget Air Asia with popular flights from KL and Bangkok, and Air Mandalay proposing new regular routes to CM and beyond via Yangoon, the city is certainly on the way to an explosive success as a great travel destination.

THE END

The post The ‘new’ road to Mandalay – Part 3 appeared first on Asian Itinerary.