The Silk Road is not just an ancient trade route—it’s a tapestry of history, legend, and timeless landscapes. Nearly eight centuries after Marco Polo’s adventures, the allure of this fabled path remains irresistible. Stretching across deserts, mountains, and vibrant cities, the Silk Road is both a journey into the past and an invitation to explore cultures that continue to thrive today.

Hamadan, Iran – The Capital of Carpets

Hamadan Province, Iran

Known in antiquity as Ecbatana, Hamadan is one of Iran’s oldest cities and an essential stop along the Persian branch of the Silk Road. Often celebrated as the global capital of carpets, Hamadan blends craftsmanship with history. The bustling bazaars still showcase intricate Persian rugs that tell stories woven in silk and wool. Yet Hamadan is more than commerce—it is also the final resting place of Avicenna, the great medieval philosopher and physician whose work bridged the gap between Aristotle and modern science.

Samarkand, Uzbekistan – Jewel of Central Asia

Samarkand, Uzbekistan

Few cities capture the imagination like Samarkand. Marco Polo described it as a “noble city,” and UNESCO’s recognition proves its cultural weight. Walking through its Registan Square, framed by dazzling madrassas covered in turquoise mosaics, feels like stepping into a living museum. Beyond its beauty, Samarkand was a meeting point of religions, ideas, and merchants. Unlike the haunting ballads that speak of destiny here, modern travelers can wander freely and soak in its magic.

Almaty, Kazakhstan – The Land of Apples

Almaty, Kazakhstan, Silk Road travel

East of Samarkand, the journey continues to Almaty, whose name translates as “the place of apples.” Once a Soviet republic city, Almaty still carries strong Russian influences, evident in the colorful Ascension Cathedral. Travelers will find an intriguing mix of Central Asian traditions and Slavic charm. For Silk Road merchants, this fertile valley was a welcome stop after endless days in the steppe—today, visitors can sample the region’s famed apples, believed to be the ancestors of those we eat worldwide.

Taklamakan Desert, China – The Sea of Death

Dune on Taklamakan Desert in China

If there was ever a true test along the Silk Road, it was the Taklamakan Desert. Known in Uyghur as the “place of no return,” this vast desert in Xinjiang remains one of the harshest environments on Earth. Ancient caravans often skirted its edges, choosing the relative safety of oasis towns like Kashgar or Hotan. For modern travelers, it’s a place of awe rather than dread, a golden sea of sand whispering stories of lost caravans and buried secrets.

Mogao Caves, Gansu Province, China

Mogao Caves, Dunhuang, China

Beyond the desert lies one of the Silk Road’s greatest cultural treasures: the Mogao Caves near Dunhuang. Carved into cliffs beginning in the 4th century AD, these 492 grottoes house breathtaking murals and Buddhist statues. While some artifacts were removed to Western museums, the caves remain a powerful testament to cross-cultural exchange. Standing here, travelers can sense the spiritual devotion that drove artists and monks to preserve faith through color and stone.

The Yellow River – Lifeline of China

The Yellow River crossing Lanzhou

The Yellow River, often called the “Mother River of China,” was both an obstacle and a lifeline for Silk Road traders. Its fertile loess-rich soil gave rise to agriculture and the flourishing of Han culture. Crossing it near Lanzhou, merchants once encountered a vibrant city of markets and temples. Today, Lanzhou is a modern metropolis, but the river still flows as the heartbeat of Chinese civilization.

Xi’an – The Eternal Capital

Xi’an, China, Terracotta Warriors

No Silk Road journey is complete without Xi’an, the ancient capital of 11 dynasties and the official starting point of the route. Xi’an is home to the Terracotta Army, one of the most astonishing archaeological finds of the 20th century. Yet the city’s magic goes beyond its underground warriors. Its Great Mosque blends Islamic and Chinese architecture, a living reminder of how cultures intertwined along the Silk Road.

Khanbaliq and Marco Polo’s Meeting with Kublai Khan

Khanbaliq

The journey culminates in Khanbaliq, the city where Marco Polo met the legendary Kublai Khan. Known today as Beijing, it embodies centuries of transformation yet remains central to China’s identity. Reading Calvino’s Invisible Cities gives poetic meaning to Polo’s travels, but walking Beijing’s bustling streets reminds us that the Silk Road’s legacy continues—alive in every exchange, every flavor, and every story.

Travel Tip

Exploring the Silk Road today means balancing legendary sites with modern realities. Some routes can be navigated by train, while others demand patience through border crossings. A good starting point is UNESCO’s Silk Roads Programme, which highlights key cultural sites and offers resources for planning your journey.

The Silk Road was never just about trade—it was about human connection. And as you follow its path, you’ll discover that this ancient network still invites us to cross boundaries, share stories, and find meaning between myth and reality.

The post Following the Silk Road: A Journey Through History and Legend appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Ali working in his shop

Persian handicrafts have a long history, as Iranians have always excelled in art and culture. One of the articraft to be found in Abadeh, and specifically in Timche Sarafian caravanserai, is the Giveh traditional Iranian shoes.

I became acquainted with these kind of shoes thanks to a chat with a young artisan, Ali, who has a small shop inside Timche Sarafian. Ali tells me that in the golden age, a thousand craftsmen in the Timche area produced Giveh shoes. Now Ali is one of the few artisans left; he learned the trade from his grandfather, and they have been artisan shoemakers for four generations. Ali started learning his skills at the age of 16 and is now 25.

WHY THEY ARE SO POPULAR

One of the parts of the sole

Giveh shoes, also know as Kalash in other areas of Iran where they are also produced, like Marivan in the Iranian Kurdistan, are a durable kind of traditional slippers made by the villagers, and used to be very popular all over Iran in the past thanks to their suitability for long marches. But this is not the only feature of these amazing shoes.

One of the great characteristics of Giveh shoes is that they keep your feet cool thanks to the specific and natural materials used to make them, as well as the presence of pores in the fabric of the shoe top that allows ventilation inside the shoes, thus preventing any unpleasant odour. This is a real godsend if you think of the extreme heat in the Iranian summertime. Giveh shoes adapt perfectly to the the shape and morphology of the feet, from their top to their soles, the more you walk in them. They are also known to relieve fatigue and pain in the legs while walking. These features make Giveh shoes still very popular in spite of the huge number of modern shoes manufactured by shoe factories in the market.

GIVEH PRODUCTION

Women producing the upper part of the sole

These are shoes that last a lifetime, and they have a lot of work behind them. All stages of the production of Giveh shoes are manual. Their top is generally made of two types of silk thread and cotton thread, and it can be washed innumerable times. Their sole has 3 layers, one of cotton, one of cowhide and one of leather (or rubber). Giveh shoes top is made mostly by women, always and religiously by hand, and on average a woman takes about 20 to 40 days to weave a pair of shoes, depending on the number of twists in the cotton and silk thread. Their soles and the final assembling is a men’s job. If you wander an Iranian market you can often see artisans making Giveh shoes inside small shops or make-shift stalls.

Interestingly enough Giveh shoes have no right or left pair. Each of these handmade shoes can be worn either by the right or the left foot. Also, Giveh shoes have no variety of colours and are only made in plain white.

GIVEH USAGE

A section of the sole

Give shoes were intended for and are typically worn by males. Initially they had a bow tie that was tangled to tight them to the feet, and they were heavily tipped, as men wore them while working.
They traditionally have no female version; however, in some regions, Giveh shoes are also welcomed by women in the hot summertime. Hence, some producers have come up with designs intended for women, beautiful and attractive designs with colourful bows and cottons and even some decorations that make Giveh shoes suitable for pairing with all kinds of fashionable clothes.
Before starting to use Giveh shoes, they need to be rubbed on the grass so that any holes left in the soles are filled by it; this way, Giveh shoes will be naturally waterproof.

EXPENSIVE BUT GREEN

Giveh in the making

The price of Giveh shoes is high by the local standards, costing from 2 million to 6 million tomans (40 to 120 euros). The price mainly depends on the type of sole and on the weaves in the cotton and silk thread with which the shoe covers are made.
Giveh shoes is definitely an investment from the point of view of the environment: as they are made only by natural materials, they do not cause any environmental pollution during their production. And even after many years, as their materials are completely natural and decompose in less than a year, returning to their natural elements.
I take leave of Ali, but not before ordering my tailor-made Giveh shoes. Not only do I buy an excellent product that will remind me of this amazing country each time I wear it, but I will also sponsor a young and enthusiastic artisan that keeps alive this incredible Iran art.

The post Giveh: handmade Iranian shoes appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

External display of antique furniture

It was during one of my wanderings around the small town of Abadeh in Iran that I discovered an unexpected gem. The Abbas Gholi Khan Historical House is one of the ancient buildings in Abadeh: it dates back to the period of the Qajars, a Turcoman dynasty of Persia who were originally a tribe settled in the Iranian Caucasus who ruled Persia from 1794 to 1925. Their kingdom, called the Sublime State of Persia, was founded by Muḥammad Khān Qājār after defeating and killing the last Zand ruler precisely in 1794.

But let’s go back to the Abbas Gholi Khan: the front boundary walls in earthen bricks and at least 5 meters high, and a massive wooden door surmounted by a splendid and colourful mosaic with Arabic writing clearly indicated that there was something special in there, so I entered.

Amphorae, carpets and various objects from the Qajar era

Wonders of wonders, inside I found myself in a courtyard adorned by a rectangular fountain in the center, and all around local craft shops as well as small rooms that house a sort of museum.

While old amphorae, water pumps from other times and antique wooden furniture have been placed in the courtyard, inside the rooms there is a real exhibition, with antique beds and sofas, colourful mosaics, copper kitchen utensils, dishes and amphorae, a mixture of paraphernalia and miscellaneous objects, as well as a collection of hundreds of matchboxes. This is one of the most interesting features of Abbas Gholi Khan Historical House, thanks to which I experienced the feeling of traveling into the past and returning not only to the Qajar era, but to other more recent periods as well.

Sofa bed of past times

The architecture of the Abbas Gholi Khan is a perfect example of a central courtyard house with unique stucco and wooden decorations. I read that the southern part of the building, including a well from which the drinking water supply came, the water tank, the entrance and the kitchen were demolished in the seventies to make room for the widening of the road. A pity they have not managed to preserve this incredible time-machine as it should.

This too is a bit like a caravanserai, similar to the Timche Sarafian but much more beautiful and well-kept. Here I found some similarities with the Havelis of Rajasthan, in India. In the upper floor, balconies overlooking the square host tables and chairs, an invitation to climb the stairs that I didn’t miss. Above, apart from the spacious terraces and the lovely balconies from which to admire the courtyard below, I found a cafeteria which includes various rooms, also furnished like a small museum: a mixture of arabesque and European styles of the early twentieth century, with vintage objects on racks and shelves, chairs and tables in classic wood and various 70s objects such as old radios and televisions.

My rose tea served with traditional caramelized candy canes

I approached the girl behind the counter, and while I initially intended to order a coffee, intrigued by the shiny and modern coffee machine on display, I casually eyed a shelf where a series of glass jars containing various types of teas and herbal teas were displayed , which immediately won me over. I ordered a rose tea and sat down. I was the only customer, but that didn’t last for long. Towards dusk the place filled up with young locals. They come here to have a coffee or a smoothie and chat, play backgammon or simply spend some time between boys and girls (without a veil) away from the eyes of the ‘right-thinking’.

The day in Abadeh was warm but the sunset already heralds a chilli evening. The mountains surrounding the city are still covered in snow, although winter is near to reaching its epilogue. I enjoy the delicious rose tea served in a pretty cup with floral motifs, sweetened with traditional sticks covered with yellow caramelised sugar, and I rest, thinking about how nice it is to wander and meet magical places like Abbas Gholi Khan Historical House.

For a full display of my PHOTOS click HERE

The post The Abbas Gholi Khan Historical House appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

The history

This spectacular mosque is located on the southern side of the large Naqsh-e Jaham square in Isfahan, Iran, and was commissioned in the Safavid era by Abbas the Great, who ordered the start of works in 1611. The Shah by that time was already 52 years old; to allow him to see his work completed, the technique of pre-painted tiles then assembled according to the pre-established models was introduced for the first time in Iran. The traditional techniques available were complex mosaics made with millions of individual tiles, or by directly painting the decorations on the walls, which took a very long time. This choice was decisive and allowed the completion of the structure already in 1629, 18 years after the beginning of the works. The builders of the Imam mosque had been chosen among the best architects, engineers, designers and artists of the Safavid era.

Until 1979 the Imam mosque was called Shah’s Mosque (or Royal Mosque); after the Islamic revolution it became the Imam’s Mosque but you can call it either way. It is a masterpiece of Persian and Islamic architecture that has witnessed some historical events and has a kind of royal harmony. Together with the monumental Naqsh-e Jaham square on which it overlooks, it has been registered by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

The architecture

The asymmetrical plan of the mosque is due to a double alignment: the facade is oriented towards the square in the opposite direction to the entrance door of the Grand Bazaar of Isfahan, while the mosque is instead facing towards the Mecca. Perhaps the most fascinating aspect of the mosque are the splendid mosaic decorations with tiles of seven different colours.

One could spend days walking through the courtyards and in the buildings of the complex, simply following the geometric or floral patterns found on the walls, but remembering once in a while to look up as well, as some of the more elaborate mosaics decorate the domes.

The portal of the building, decorated with mosaics depicting geometric, floral and calligraphic motifs, is 30 meters high and is flanked by two 42-metre minarets. All the walls of the building are decorated with mosaic tiles of seven colours which allow a remarkable optical effect.

In the internal courtyard the arcades have refined blue and yellow mosaics, and in the center there is a tub for ablutions. The southern side leads to the main sanctuary with a large dome. In this space the echo effect reproduced by the structure is famous. According to scientists, there are 49 echo tones produced, even though the human ear perceives only 12.

Ultimately the Imam mosque, with its magnificent minarets and its various architectural marvels, is undoubtedly among the unrivalled masterpieces of Isfahan. A mosque which in its time was among the marvels of the age, and indeed, for the beauty of its design, the grandeur, the solemn dimensions and the magnificence of its majolica, is the shining star of the art of the Safavid period.

Photo Gallery by Thomas Gennaro 2022

The post The Imam mosque in Isfahan appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

The Grand Bazaar (in Persian language Bazar Bozorg, بازار بزرگ) is is one of Iran’s most historic and marvellous bazaars market and it is located in Isfahan, Iran. It is also known as the Qeysarriyeh Bazaar or Soltani bazaar. The bazaar is one of the oldest and largest bazaars in the Middle East and is the longest roofed market in the world. The main commercial activities in the Grand Bazaar are carpet and kilim – a word of Turkish origin, denotes a rug of many uses produced by one of several flat-weaving techniques that have a common or closely related heritage and are practiced in the geographical area-selling. 

History

The Grand Bazaar was one of the greatest and luxurious trading center in the Safavid era, and it connects the Naqsh-e Jahan Square, the most highlight isfahan tourist attraction registered as UNESCO World Heritage Site, to the Kohneh Square and Seljukid part of Isfahan. In the Middle-East, bazaars were typically situated in close proximity to the mosque and the Isfahan bazaar is no exception. It was originally constructed during the 11th century, in 1620 on the northern side of Nasqh-e-Jahan Square, though various arcades and rooms were later added to it.

In the past, this bazaar was the centre of the city and it was also a meeting point for the locals. The site has been destroyed several times and the contemporary bazaar dates to the 17th century, when it was used as one the greatest and luxurious trading center. It was rebuilt as one of the ambitious expansion plans. The bazaar is a vaulted two-kilometre street linking the old city with the new.

Experience the bazaar

Before entering the Grand Bazaar visitors can see views of the square, which is one of the biggest squares in the entire world. This bazaar has almost 5 kilometres of shopping streets with many arches and corridors. All around the square are shops full of Persian handicrafts. It is a a maze of of madresahs, caravanserais, lanes and centres of trade such as handicraft and carpet vendors. 

You can easily spend half of a day by visiting the Grand Bazaar and enjoy experiencing the lanes, smell the spices and dried dates, having some tea and, if you find the time, a local restaurant for lunch. Isfahan bazaar offers a peaceful space to see the shops and the displays inside.

The Grand Bazaar, one of the most seen sights in Isfahan, is located in downtown old Isfahan.

Photo Gallery by Thomas Gennaro 2022

The post Grand Bazaar, Isfahan appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Landscape that looks like a big sandy island

I cannot recall how many times, during my various plane journeys from Europe to Asia and back, I looked down from the small airplane window and marveled about the vast and never-ending deserts that cover most of the Middle East. These huge amounts of sand bear no trace of civilization. I have often wondered about the feeling of being on an endless stretch of dry, sandy land. When this year I had the opportunity to visit Iran, I immediately included in my itinerary interesting cities and archeological sites like Persepolis, but you can bet one of my main goals was to go to an area of desert, hopefully one not touched by mass tourism. And to have a real Iran outback experience.

Kerman rail station

You must know that when I travel abroad, especially in a country or area I have not visited before, I enjoy nature, I try local food, but most of all I love to meet local people and get to know about  their culture. I am so eager to learn about their life experiences but also to hear their point of view about the world and how they see the civilized world that seems so far from there, especially in a remote area of a country whose citizens have a hard time to be allowed to travel.

After a few days inside Iran, I found myself in Yazd, one of the most ancient cities situated in the heart of the country. I was exploring my phone map on satellite mode, looking for an interesting desert to visit or a mountain to hike, when my attention was drawn to a specific point in the map, pretty far from cities, very close to high mountains and surrounded by desert and desolated land. I couldn’t believe it when, in the middle of nothing, a pin was indicating Hamid Rahmani Tours and Homestay. I searched this name on Google and the information I got – https://hamidrahmanitours.wordpress.com – indicated exactly the kind of experience I was looking for. After a quick phone exchange of information with Hamid, we fixed the pick-up time and location for the following day!

Vaste espanse of the Iran desert

We left Yazd at 3pm, shortly after Hamid picked me up from my hostel. The plan was to travel by car for about 350km south-east and get to his homestay, situated in a small village in the Kerman province, at 2000 meters above sea level. During the journey, Hamid stopped at one of the several Iranian natural beauties: the Bafq Desert. The Bafq desert is a sandy desert 120km south east of Yazd; it is impressive how nature created this enormous mass of sand that contrasts with the landscape, making it look like a big sandy island in the middle of rocky mountains. Hamid gave me free time to wander while he took a nap, so I took the opportunity and climbed to the top of the biggest mountain, enjoying the sound of the wind while observing a magic sunset that stained the whole area with colorful lights. Moments like these make me aware how small human being is if compared with this great planet.

Hamid Homestay roof view

I then spent the night at Hamid Home Stay, and the morning after I climbed on the roof of his traditional house to admire the neighborhood around me: rows of houses traditionally built, some of them dating up to 500 years ago. The village is a mix of ancient houses and renovated dwellings, but in the end, all are built respecting the traditional architecture. What an explosion of energy I got from this morning view.

Local people at a remote village

The fresh and clean air made me hungry, or maybe it was the wonderful reviews I had read about the delicious food Hamid’s wife prepares for the guest. My expectation was fully satisfied, and during the following two days I had the pleasure to taste her local fresh food, each meals a different dish cooked with love and care.

Hamid offered me several tours during my stay. I was to discover the real life of a village so far from ‘civilization’, I met local people, I was introduced to Islam religion inside a 200 years old mosque, I slept in an old but nicely renovated traditional house, I climbed rocky mountains reaching stunning views 3000 mt above sea level and I learned about how global warming is changing and devastating entire communities in this part of the globe that year by year sees its water disappear. 

My Honda devil on the riding day

But the nicest experience I had in Iran was riding a motorbike in the desert along desolated lands and mountains through roads created somehow centuries ago. Maybe it’s because I am a motorbike lover, or perhaps because my heart expands in front of so much unlimited nature. During the way, I inhaled the smell of herbs that only grow at this altitude, and the dust I left behind me gave me that feeling that I was looking for. 

The hiking experience put a smile on my face

I am going to miss Hamid family and I treasure so much the experience I gained during this tour. I am so glad I had the chance to experience a real Iran outback experience!

The post Iran outback experience appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

If you ever pass by Shiraz, in Iran, make sure you don’t miss Persepolis. Persepolis is a palace for peace, a place where visitors from all walks of life, by looking at its splendid and glorious architecture, can imagine the world as it was long before Jesus Christ. 

The sacred site and the mountains as a background

The area of Persepolis – a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979, comprehends one of the biggest and most important archeological site in the whole world. It is impressive how a civilization could design and realize a complex like Persepolis more than 2500 years ago. This ancient village was provided with an efficient system of drainage, piped waterways and flood outlets. Each structure had a function: audience halls, private residences, guards rooms, treasure houses, with a series of fortifications higher than ten meters protecting the area. 

Concept and Location

Persepolis is located near Marvdasht village, 50 km northeast of Shiraz. The palace, located on a promontory projecting into the plain from a rocky hill at the foot of the northwest corner of the Mountain of Mercy, a holy mountain at that time, presents what may be the most awesome ruins of the ancient world. According to the testimony of Achaemenid documents (the Achaemenid Empire, also called the First Persian Empire, was based in Western Asia and founded by Cyrus the Great in 550 BC), the original name of the then new Achaemenid capital was Parseh. This was also the name of the nearby settlement and of the people inhabiting it. 

mightly heritage of and ancient civilizations

The name Persepolis is a Greek word meaning “City of the Persians”, and this is the appellation widely known and accepted in the West. However, in Iran the site is known as Takht-e Jamshid (the Throne of Jamshid), after king Jamshid, whose behests were carried out by demons. The name possibly derived from the popular belief in the supernatural origin of the structures.

Construction and Functions

By the time Darius the Great – the fourth king of the Persian Achaemenid Empire- undertook the construction of Persepolis in around 518 BC, the Persepolis palace was one of the Achaemenian buildings used for official ceremonies associated with the greatest national, royal, and religious Iranian festival of Nouruz, a symbol of the empire’s sovereignty over its far-flung dominions. Persepolis was conceived as a magnificent showcase of Achaemenid achievements, a fabulous repository of the most spectacular architectural and artistic achievements anywhere in the ancient world. 

Darius in Persepolis

With the power and wealth which had been accumulated in the country by that time, it should not surprise us that these ambitious goals were fully achieved. Persepolis was a great center of terrestrial power, providing an effective setting for invocation and worship. The city glorified the divinely-sanctioned dynasty, and was pervaded with the peculiar virtue of royal authority believed to be conferred by the power of Ahura Mazda (the name for the God of Zoroastrianism, the old Iranian religion), located at the very birthplace of the empire. Persepolis was its holy center, as are Mecca, Jerusalem, and the Vatican of their respective religious system today. 

Architecture and Art

the great art of Persepolis times

The architecture and art of Persepolis reveals an eclectic synthesis of forms gathered from all parts the Achamenid empire. However, it is astonishing that the resulting blend of so many styles and influences was original and coherent despite its eclecticism. From the intermingling of ideas and fashions, and under the supervision and planning of Persian masters, there emerged the so-called Achaemenid style, highly cosmopolitan and diverse on the one hand, and harmonious and concordant on the other. Mud-bricks supplied by Babylonians, cedar roof beams from Lebanon, precious materials from India and Egypt, gold from Sardis, and stone quarried nearby but carved by Lydians and Ionians, all united in a single passionate endeavor to create the magnificent complex of structures that was Persepolis.

Conclusion

the ancient glory of Persepolis

Back in my school times I, like many, had the chance to study the origin of our cultures and the history of the Persian and Achaemenid empires. It has been my long-time dream to visit and see with my own eyes, at least once in my lifetime, the sculptures and buildings that nowadays can only be found in Persepolis. Being in person at a site that I had often seen in pictures has allowed me to better understand the heritage of a huge ancient civilization, and to feel the great vibrations behind it. 

To see a video of persepolis click HERE 

To read about my visit to the Vakil Mosque in Shiraz, click HERE.

I hope this article of mine has drawn the readers’ interest, and that it will motivate people to plan a trip to Iran and a visit to such a gorgeous and unbelievable city of arts: Persepolis.

The post Persepolis, the glory of Persia appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

My guide Shima

The Vakil Mosque is one of the most significant mosque in Shiraz, Iran. The 48 monolithic pillars join one another on top through vaulted brickworks, and the pillar shafts are carved in a spiral way and decorated in form of acanthus leaves at their capitals. The marble stone for these columns was brought from Azerbaijan and Yazd. The entire construction is made in a way that it achieves a linear acoustic that spreads all around the mosque surface. A master piece of sound technology, architectural beauty and stunning decoration.

I started my visit at Vakil Mosque after I luckily met a local guide at the entrance of the compound. Shima is a professional, passionate and and certificated Iranian guide, and a Shiraz guide specialist: thanks to her deep insight, I could understand the magic history behind this great mosque. Should you need her services, you can contact Shima by email: tourist.city.shiraz@gmail.com

Architecture and Art

The Vakil Mosque occupies an area of 8,660 square meter, it is entered from the north through a recessed entrance, the upper vault of which is adorned with tiled moqarnas (a form of ornamented vaulting in Islamic architecture, the geometric subdivision of a cupola into a large number of miniature squinches, producing a sort of cellular structure, sometimes also called a honeycomb).

the magneficent columns of the Vakil Mosque

The portal also features lavish tile-work, cable-shaped stone friezes, and fine calligraphy. Its 8 meter wings wooden gate is a copy of the original door from the Zand age broken by a cannon ball during the Qajar Dynasty (second part of 1700 ac). A vestibule behind the entrance has two passages which lead into the courtyard. The lower parts of the porches and arcades are faced with marble slabs, carved in relief, with splendid floral motifs. The mihrab (a semicircular niche in the wall of a mosque that indicates the direction that Muslims should face when praying) is flanked by deep, tiled niches, carved at various elevations on either side.

column details

What attracted my interest most was the minbar (a pulpit in a mosque where the imam – prayer leader – stands to deliver sermons) on the right side. It is climbed by way of fourteen steps cut out of a single great block of marble. History book state that Karim Khan Zand (the founder of the Zand Dynasty and the Shah of Iran, ruling from 1751 to 1779) is reported to have joked that this minbar cost him more than if it had been made of pure gold. The lavish use of stone is an atypical feature for the Iranian mosque prior to the Zand period. Stones were used sparingly, and mainly for decorative purposes.

This mosque is an historical religious monument that is extremely special for the Iranian people. If you travel to Shiraz, don’t miss this beautiful mosque. It is not an exaggeration to state that when you enter the Vakil Mosque, its architecture and art push you to release yourself from the material world and to think about the greatness of your soul.

History of Vakil Mosque

inside Vakil mosque

Vakil Mosque in one of the most beautiful that Karim Khan Zand created in Shiraz. It is significant not only as a major religious building of the Zand period, but also as the only important building of its kind to be built in late 18^th century. The mosque you can see today is the result of several stages of construction and restoration. It was  originally started late in Karim Khan’s reign during the high Victorian style developed under this monarch.

Details of the mihrab at the Vakil Mosque

The Vakil Mosque represents in plan and artistic style a perfect Zand edifice. All the  features distinguish the Mosque from the preceding and subsequent architectural styles. It is remarkable for its generous spatial area and for the elegant proportions of its architectural units. The decorative treatments of the Zand religious buildings are also less conventional and more secular in type than that of the earlier mosques, bunches of flowers and bright colors being largely employed in the pottery works.

The mosque area

The Vakil Mosque is, unsurprisingly, a popular tourist destination for foreign both and Iranian people. The area around offers much more for the visitors to enjoy. If you like visiting cathedrals and mosques for their wealth of history and unbelievable beauty that can await you at every turn, then the Vakil Mosque should be high on the list of things you intend to see. The area around this historic center have so much to discover. All around the mosque, an intricate group of small roads create one of the most original markets of Iran, the Vakil Bazar.

A group of Iranian tourists

The Vakil Bazar is a group of many small and traditional shop selling a huge collection of different crafts and hand made manufactures and excellent gastronomy. Shima my guide invited me to test a few of those speciality, including the typical Shirazy ice cream.

Conclusion

Overall, my visit to the Vakil Mosque was enriching at a cultural level, and enlightening at the same time. Vakil Mosque is a very popular destination in a very nice and famous area of Iran. Shiraz is a must-see also for the nearby archeological area of Persepoli  – CLICK HERE to know more about Persepoli.

CLICK HERE To read about my trip to Iran.

For a 360 degrees visit inside the Vakil Mosque, check https://www.360cities.net/image/iran-shiraz-vakil-mosque

The post The Vakil Mosque appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

It was during my first evening at the Damai Beach Resort that I had the chance to meet with Mohsen Sharifian and his troupe. Mohser and his extensive band were in the hotel hall at midnight, chatting and laughing in an

Mohsen Sharifian’s performance at RWMF 2013 in Kuching

undistinguished language. Their spokesperson was looking for the WiFi codes to connect their phones, and we started a very interested conversation. He told us of their country, Iran, of their millenary culture and their instruments, of the happy people from their province, of their wish to play music and dance, mimicking the gestures of farmers and fishermen in their dances. And of their goal: to preserve and promote the folklore music of their region inside and outside of Iran. We were so taken by their passion that we looked forward to joining in at their workshops and concert in the days to come. And we did!

MOSHER

Mohsen Sharifian’s workshop at RWMF 2013 in Kuching

Hailing from the southern Iranian province of Bushehr, Mohsen Sharifian is Iran’s most prestigious folklore musician and composer and heads the troupe Mohsen Sharifian and The Lian Band.

BUSHEHR

Bushehr is a southern city in Iran, capital city and administrative centre of the Bushehr province, that lies in a vast plain running along the coastal region on the Persian Gulf, 400km south of Tehran. Bushehr has a population of approximately 170,000 people and used to be the main seaport of the country. Its ancient history and culture are deep, and this reflects on the music played there, one of the most prominent music types that owes to the mix of various cultures and religious melodies that passed through the province during the years. Bushehr former name, Lian, is 3000 years old and it is the name chosen by Mohser for his band. It means ‘shining sun.’

CAREER

Born in Boushehr in 1976, Mohser holds a Bachelor’s degree in Social and Political Sciences in the field of research. Mohser started playing Bushehri folklore music with bagpipes in 1992 and founded the musical group Lian in 1993, which marked the beginning of his professional research in the field of Iranian southern music. He has published several books and articles in newspapers and magazines over the years, with some of his work decorated and awarded prices. Mohser has spent the last 20 years immersing in and researching the musical traditions of his region, composing works inspired by his musical researches and collection of songs and dance-tunes. He is a virtuoso performer on the two ancient, emblematic instruments of the Persian Gulf, the Ney-Anban – a bagpipe – and the Ney-Jufti – a double-pipe reed flute. Mohser has received seven awards for solo performances of Ney-Anban. Mohsen Sharifian and The Lian Band perform in international music festivals and give musical workshops around the world.

INSTRUMENTS

Music is a hereditary thing in Mohser family, passed from generation to generation. He started playing seriously the Ney-Anban and the Ney-Jufti at the age of 14 and added more unusual instruments to his music with the  establishment of The Lian Band ensemble.

A suggestive image of Mohsen Sharifian playing his instrument in Kuching

The Nay-Anban is a type of bagpipe popular in Bushehr. Nay-Anban literally means ‘bag-pipe’, and can refer to a type of drone-less double-chantered bagpipes played in Southern Iran similar to the Bahrain Jirba played by ethnic Iranians in the Persian Gulf Islands.

The Nay-Jofti  is an Iranian double-pipe reed flute that figures prominently in Middel Eastern music. It has been played continuously for 4,500–5,000 years, making it one of the oldest musical instruments still in use. The Nay-Jofti consists of a piece of hollow cane or reef with five or six finger holes and one thumb hole, and its pitch varies depending on the region and the finger arrangement.

MUSIC

Boushehri music is the amalgamation of centuries of social, cultural and religious influences, a combination of forces of a footprint of African, Indian and Arab music and songs. It is a music that is present in the daily lives of Bushehr people, influenced by cultures and family life, and representing the life of people from fishing villages.

Most of The Lian Band folk and world fusion music songs are composed by Mohsen, who during these years has performed looking for interaction and dialogue with different music cultures. In various attempts to explore opportunities to collaborate with other breedings, bagpipes and a range of percussions are interspersed between cheerful hip-swaying dancers in traditional costumes, and mixed with flamenco, Indian and modern international music, absorbing other influences and resulting in a colourful musical journey that highlights The Lian Band ensemble role as representatives for their traditional music.

THE BAND

Mohsen Sharifian’s performance at RWMF 2013 in Kuching

Since forming in 1993 during their student years and starting their activities under the supervision of Mohsen Sharifian, members of The Lian Band have been producing folk Bushehri music and have released nine albums. The group is currently regarded as one of Iran’s most prestigious folklore musical bands and, along with performances in different parts of Iran, they have played Boushehr music in various parts of the world such as Womex in Greece, Sweden, Belarus, Malaysia, Bulgaria, at the Olympics in Beijings, Russia, at the World Cup in Germany, Singapore, Turkey, Bahrein, Kuwait, Jordan, Qatar, Turkmenistan, Oman, United Arab Emirates, Shanghai, and in a few states of the USA.

The Lian Band line up of artists is: Hadi Manoochehri (dancer), Hamid Akbari (tempo, kakhen), Hossein Sangsar (dammam), Mahmoud Bardaknia (dammam, dayere), Mohsen Sharifian (ney-anban, ney-jofti), Morteza Palizdan (zarb, timpo), Roohollah Safavi (vocals).

AT THE FESTIVAL

The Lian Band dynamic performance at the Rainforest World Music Festival final night drew loud rounds of applauses. They played an incredible array of instruments, driving rhythms that were enhanced by chanting vocals, dances and Mohsen Sharifian’s impressive centre-stage solos on his bagpipes and flutes. Mohsen was an intense force of nature, squeezing traditional melodies and complex tunes with amazing energy that urged the audience to clap and dance.

CHALLENGES

Mohsen Sharifian’s performance at RWMF 2013 in Kuching

We need to remember that for groups in Iran, playing traditional music and bagpipes is still facing a degree of opposition. Performing in public and the use of women musicians are not allowed in the country as they are regarded as humiliating by many in their highly religious society. This has been slightly improving in recent years, and Mohsen performances are now regarded as honorable by some, hence allowing The Lian Band to perform their music and art, and to spread a message of joy and peace to the world through their international concerts.

IN THE MEDIA

The Lian Band official website was nominated in the 5th Iranian Web Festival in three categories (best main page, best visual design and best personal website), winning the best main page. Visit http://www.lianmusic.com

Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pikVGgRAp24

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/m.sharifian.lm

At the Womex: http://www.womex.com/virtual/mohsen_sharifian_lian_band%20/mohsen_sharifian_the

The post Mohsen Sharifian and The Lian Band appeared first on Asian Itinerary.