Phuket has been recounted mostly as the Andaman pearl paradise, but less so for its Sino-Colonial style architectures that deserves a chapter of its own. Considering that behind any building there are people and their personal tales, what would be Taj Mahal without the love tales of Shah Jahan and Noor, or the Roman Coloseum without the bloody tales of the gladiators? Phuketians are a melting pot of Siamese, Chinese, Malay, Indian, Eurasian and the sea-gypsy ethnicities, mainly due to the island’s tin-mining past. From the early unions between Hokkien – an ethnic/cultural group originating from the province of Fujian, also called Hoklo in Taiwan – tin-miners and Siamese women a unique community was formed in Phuket with its own way of life, language, dress and food: the ‘Baba’ or Peranakan. It is thanks to this distinctive Baba heritage that today we can admire the Sino-Colonial architecture of old Phuket. From the 1820s onwards, mining in Phuket was in the hands of Hokkien Chinese immigrants from the British Straits settlements, particularly Penang. Around 1850, this settlement formed the historic core of old Phuket town, Tongkah, which was linked by few roads and a network of canals and waterways leading to TongkahBay. Coastal vessels transported tin from Phuket to Penang, and returned with foodstuff and hardware. In the past, workers flocked to the town to sell their ore, to stock up on provisions, and to remit money. In order to forget their hardship and homesickness, they indulged in the four pleasures – wine, women, opium and gambling. Thalang Road was the main street where the big traders had their shops and Soi Romanee was the red light district. Nowadays Thalang Road and Soi Romanee concentrate a real architectural  delight: a 2km easy to walk Sino-colonial trail that makes the core of old Phuket Town. But how this architectural heritage made its appearance in the town? In the early 20th century, a measure of civilization was brought by Phraya Rassada Nupradit (Khaw Sim Bee na Ranong) during his term as High Commissioner of greater Phuket (1900-1913). He gave a large concession to an Australian-European mining company, Tongkah Harbour Dredging, in return for funds to develop the public infrastructure. Roads were built, canals were de-silted, and a number of public buildings were put up. With Phuket becoming safer, more traders and mineworkers and their families, especially those from Penang, settled down in Phuket. With greater prosperity, more schools, temples, mansions, shop-houses and official buildings were endowed blending largely Chinese and European architectural styles, with some  elements from Indian and Islamic culture all borrowed from the Penang colonial influence, which lent a unique and distinctive brand of architecture. A shining example of this historical heritage are the shop-houses that were the dwellings of Chinese owner-traders who literally lived where they worked; shop in the front, courtyard and garden behind and residence above. With their growing prosperity, thanks to a thriving trade with Penang, these multistoryed brick-wood building moved from their simple beginnings to a more elaborate decorative style with glazed tiles, stucco relief and intricate wooden tracery. Later, western influence made their way to what is also referred as ‘Sino-Colonial style’ composed of the classic Renaissance and neo-European elements such as arches and elegant stucco edged pillars, door and windows. Visitors can now admire this legacy thanks to the fact that the descendants of these old buildings realize their importance and are trying to preserve their historical patrimony.

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Penang Island – and Georgetown – is one of those travel experiences where sights, smells, sounds and tastes blend together in an eclectic bazaar which brings great memories. Penang’s colourful history can be traced in its outstanding architectural heritage that dates back to 1786 when Sir Francis Light persuaded the Sultan of Kedah to cede Pulau Penang (or Betel Nut Island) to the British East India Company. The first settlement that soon grew was named Georgetown after King George III. Today Georgetown is Penang’s main cultural and religious melting pot and political Capital. Malays, Chinese, Indians and various other communities co-exist in full harmony. Sanctuaries and sacred places dot the capital to an extent that most of them are found few meters away from each other. During the time spent in Georgetown I mingled with flocks of Muslim, Hindu, Buddhist and Christian devotees. By walking along Lebuh Cannon, I was able to visit St. George’s Church, Goddess of Mercy Temple, Sri Mariamman Temple, Yap Knongsi Temple and Kapitan Keling Mosque. A simple turning on Lebuh Acheh and I stumbled upon the Malay Mosque. But if you think that is too much, think again as Georgetown’s historical trail displays in addition, to the ones already mentioned, The King Street Temples, Teochew Temple, Islamic Museum, Cathedral of Assumption, Hainan Temple, Benggali Temple, Christian Cemetery, Cheah Kongsi Temple and Saint Francis Xavier Church. Multiracial population also means multi-culinary options. In Little India (in Lebuh Pasar) I indulged in Indian dishes such as Nasai Kandar, a dish of Indian Muslim origin, as well as other sub-continental favourite specialities such as Tosai, Idiapom, chicken tandoori, dhal curry and chicken tikka with either chappati or naan bread. These feasts enjoyed in Georgetown brought back memories of Mystical India. For Chinese enthusiasts, the freshly steamed pork ribs, pao of char siew with sweet paste fillings, har gao, and dumplings make for a delicious experience. The other main dining escapade was at the Gurney Drive, famous for hawker food-stalls offering Penang specialities such as nasi goreng, rojak, asam laksa, hokkien mee and pasembor. When I felt a need to bask in nature, I found myself strolling in verdant parks or along sun-drenched beaches. Classical escapes from Georgetown’s concrete heritage are Penang Hill; you can make your way up by trekking or you can use the public funicular train – this was my choice. Once at the summit you will enjoy the refreshing climate and fantastic views. From there I hiked down to the other classic getaway, The Botanical Garden, a real oasis of peace and tranquillity and a haven for botanical lovers. One early morning I boarded the public bus and in a matter of an hour I was hiking in the Penang National Park, rated in the Guinness book as the smallest park in the world. Early that same afternoon I was lunching at one of the beachfront restaurants in the small fishing village of Teluk Bahang. Later that afternoon I was strolling along the golden Batu-Ferringhi beach – famous playground boasting international deluxe resorts. A host of water sport facilities such as sailing, windsurfing, water skiing, parasailing and speedboat rides are offered. Other recreational activities on the beach include horse-riding and volleyball. Penang is also a shopping and entertainment delight with hundreds of watering holes, theatres, shopping malls and bazaars located around the city. My choice for shopping was Gurney Plaza and for cultural performance the Eden Seafood Village. Had it not been for my credit card limit, I would most probably be still mending my debts. Georgetown as seat of the administration and commercial hub of the British colonial era grew by combining the best of the East and West. The merging of these two cultures makes Penang a unique place for visitors and denizens alike. As a final note, in recent surveys the island has been ranked in the top most livable cities in Asia.

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