Tucked away in the limestone pinnacles of Khammouane province, central Laos, the Xe Bang Fai River Cave is one of the world’s largest river caves and a dream for adventurous travelers. For those willing to venture off the beaten path, this natural wonder promises kayaking through enormous tunnels, encounters with unique wildlife, and a taste of true wilderness. Why Visit Xe Bang Fai River Cave? The cave stretches for four miles underground, with a ceiling that reaches 120 meters high and a width of up to 200 meters at its largest points. Its sheer size is awe-inspiring, making it perfect for photography, adventure, and nature appreciation. Inside, visitors can spot: The giant huntsman spider, discovered in 2001, with a leg span of nearly one foot. The world’s largest single rimstone basins—terraced pools formed by mineral deposits. Hexagonal cave pearls, lined up like a monster’s eggs near the “dragon’s hatchery” viewing gallery. These features make the cave not only a natural marvel but also a fascinating site for those interested in geology and biodiversity. How to Explore the Cave Kayaking is the most immersive way to experience Xe Bang Fai. Wooden kayaks are available locally, but to cover the full four-mile underground passage, including portaging over five rapids, it’s best to book a guided tour. Travel agencies provide inflatable kayaks and experienced guides who ensure a safe, memorable journey. Camping by the Cave After kayaking, consider camping next to the jade-colored pool at the cave entrance. It’s a serene spot to enjoy the quiet sounds of the river and reflect on the adventure. Nights here are peaceful, with minimal light pollution—perfect for stargazing. Tips for Travelers Timing: The dry season (November to April) is ideal; higher water levels in the wet season can make kayaking tricky. Gear: Wear quick-dry clothing and sturdy sandals. Don’t forget a waterproof camera or GoPro. Local Culture: Support community tourism by buying food or crafts in Nong Ping; your contribution helps preserve this off-the-beaten-path destination. Getting There Xe Bang Fai is still relatively undiscovered, so prepare for a long but scenic journey through rural Laos. The surrounding landscape is dotted with karst mountains, rice paddies, and small villages, offering a glimpse of authentic Lao life before you reach the cave. Exploring the Xe Bang Fai River Cave is more than an adventure—it’s a journey into one of the least-visited corners of Laos, where nature reveals some of its most extraordinary secrets. Whether kayaking through vast limestone chambers or camping by the jade pool, this hidden gem promises memories that will last a lifetime.

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Krabi, Thailand, is the perfect place to try kayaking, no matter what your skill, experience or fitness level might be. There are an abundance of waterways that are sheltered and calm to gently paddle your way down and there is no better way to take in the majestic scenery the Krabi region has to offer. Kayaking along the Srakaew river was indeed a real treat.   Klong Srakaew meanders 5km through the Khao Thong sub-district of Krabi and boasts the deepest freshwater pool in Asia. We headed out 28km from Krabi itself until we reached our destination – the base of our kayak tour operator, Long Klong Srakaew. Stepping out of our minivan, we were greeted in true Thai style by our guide for the day, who happily gave us a rundown on the history of the place whilst showing us a detailed map of the rivers, mountains and thick vegetation that the area harbours. We were then shown to our rides for the morning, the brightly coloured kayaks waiting at the river’s edge. We were equipped with lifejackets and paddles, before settling – albeit in a wobbly fashion – into our rides. We pushed off from the jetty and were soon gliding gracefully out into the middle of the river itself. The one great advantage of river kayaking over sea kayaking is that the river version is a lot gentler! This makes it a perfect activity for anyone able to get into a kayak – young or old. As we gently paddled along, we took in the incredible sights, sounds and smells of nature that enveloped us from all sides. We were dwarfed by the towering trees on either side of us, as well as the iconic limestone karsts that this area of Thailand is famous for. Bright explosions of flowers adorned the river’s edges and exotic looking birds swooped and chirped above our heads. This was amazing, and the colours were surreal! We felt like we were paddling down the Amazon River, 100 years back in time! As this is an untouched part of the world, we did have to keep our eyes peeled for the odd obstacle that included a few tree stumps and rocks that poked up out of the water. But they were easy to spot and our guide made extra sure that we gave them a wide berth in plenty of time. All too soon, we reached the end of our trail and were guided in towards the riverbank to disembark. Waiting for us were a couple of trucks to take us back to our starting point, where we would begin the second part of our day of exploration. After a delicious Thai lunch and some refreshing drinks, we set off up a dirt track to explore some of the lush jungle that surrounds the area. Heading towards the base of the mountains, we came across a small oasis of natural pools filled with cool, clear water. A perfect discovery on a hot and humid day like today! A few of us decided to make the most of them and jumped in to cool off, which was just what we needed. Our guide handed us some food for the little fish that were swimming around our bodies, and they hungrily gobbled it up. This brought squeals of delight from some members, and it was great to see so many happy faces of people enjoying the whole experience. We were enveloped by nature, and all around us we had birds singing in the trees, large butterflies dancing around our heads, crickets chirping and water gurgling. Taking a deep breath of the sweet air was invigorating to say the least! Our guide took us further until we reached the base of Sa Kongsi Mountain, where he showed us an incredible natural display of stalactites and stalagmites that have formed in the soft limestone over millennia. It’s easy to guess how this part of the world has become a favourite location for several Hollywood blockbuster movies, such as “Around the World in 80 Days” and “The Beach”, to name just a couple. I highly recommend a visit to the Srakaew cave area, where at least one hour should be dedicated. The colour of the pool of water is a weird blue, and the pool is 200 meters deep, the deepest pool in Asia! As we made our way back to the start to begin our homeward journey, we passed farms with locals working away at the rubber trees – one of the major industries in Krabi. Fascinating to see and smell, it was a lasting impression on top of everything else we had experienced that day. It was wonderfully relaxing, informative and downright fun day; kayaking along the Srakaew river is a must for anyone visiting Krabi. GETTING THERE There is hardly any reference of this area in the Krabi generic tourist maps, so I relied on the Internet to find out more. Drive from Krabi Town towards Phuket on the main road, the sign to Klong Srakaew is at about 20km out of Krabi. Turn left into that road and drive on for another 5km, then turn right on the tarmac road and follow it until you see the sign, to the right, to the kayaking area. If you are driving from Ao Nang, ask for directions to Tha Pom.

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When I embarked on a longtail boat tour of Bor Thor, drawn by the allure of ancient caves and the legend of the Big Headed Ghost, I anticipated shielding myself from the scorching Krabi sun. However, on the appointed day, the sun was the least of my concerns. Instead, I was greeted by a somber, overcast morning, with rain persisting so relentlessly that at the Bor Thor pier, nestled in the Ao Luk northern district of Krabi, Thailand, even the local vendors’ stalls were ensconced in muddy surroundings, rendering sampling their fare impossible. Boarding a traditional longtail boat, we navigated through canals flanked by islands cloaked entirely in mangrove swamps. Our guide enlightened us about this remarkable ecosystem, dominated by millions of mangrove tree roots protruding from the water due to insufficient air in the mud, and the intricate food chain within such forests. Mangroves not only furnish nutrients for resident animals and microorganisms but also act as a natural filter for the Marui River, trapping sediments from the upstream villages. The reverberating noise of our boat’s engine resonated amidst the labyrinth of mangrove tree trunks, while towering limestone formations surrounded us, their verdant hues juxtaposed only by the vibrant canoes and kayaks, manned by tourists clad in equally colourful raincoats. Fifteen minutes later, we disembarked in front of a staircase leading to the entrance of Tham Phi Hua To, a marine section of the Tharnboke Koranee National Park. Situated 3.5 meters above sea level, the cave comprises two expansive interconnected chambers. It is believed to have served as a burial or ceremonial site for a prehistoric cave-dwelling community, dating back 2,000 to 3,000 years, evidenced by the discovery of human skulls within. These ancient inhabitants subsisted primarily on natural resources for sustenance and shelter. Adorning the area just above the entrance, we encountered the impeccably preserved painting of the Big Headed Ghost—a slender, hunched figure with a disproportionately large head, two antennae, a beak, a mantel-like covering enveloping its form, and protrusions emerging from its pelvic region. Crafted with henna, this pictograph has spawned a legend, alleging that the Big Headed Ghost, once a terrorizing presence, still haunts the cave, guarding its enigma and essence. Embarking on our exploration, we traversed the first chamber, replete with millennia-old stalactites and stalagmites, while a musty fragrance hung in the air. Adorning the walls were over a hundred paintings, partially preserved despite the ravages of time and climate. These primitive depictions, some rudimentary in nature, were rendered using henna, clay, and other natural pigments, illustrating people, marine life, tools, and vignettes of daily existence. Notably, the paintings varied in elevation, a testament to the fluctuating water levels both inside and outside the cave, which would rise during high tides, compelling inhabitants to seek refuge on higher cave floors, where they crafted these artworks during periods of respite. The abundance of ancient pictographs adorning the upper grotto walls corroborates this hypothesis. Ascending to the north chamber, we were treated to a panoramic vista of mangroves, limestone formations, and the meandering waterways below. Upon returning to the longtail boat, we embarked on an exhilarating journey through Tahm Lod Tai, a cave nestled beneath a limestone hill, characterized by narrow passageways. Laden with awe-inspiring stalactites and stalagmites, this cave is navigable only during low tide. Our boat glided serenely through the cavern, affording us ample time to silently marvel at this marvel of nature. As we disembarked at the Bor Thor pier, the rain had abated, and though the air retained a crisp chill, shards of sunlight pierced through the overcast sky. Descending carefully from the boat, we made our way to a riverside floating raft adorned with a thatched roof, serving as a restaurant where our lunch awaited. I found immense pleasure in this meticulously organized and pleasantly adventurous tour, replete with delightful surprises at every turn.

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