Located a few km from Krabi Town center, the karst outcrops belonging to the Khao Phanom Bencha mountain range are home to one of the most sacred sites in the South of Thailand. The spectacular Tiger Cave Temple, or

The amazing vegetation surrounding the temple karst

Wat Tham Seua, is so-called because a tiger once lived in the cave that is today the monastery’s main hall.

Although most of the buildings are in a natural forest park accessible by any vehicle, the most stunning construction is at the end of a rather large stairway taking you upwards 1260 steps, so to fully enjoy the marvels of the Wat Tham Seua surroundings, one must be willing to embark in an extra challenge: a climbing journey to the top of its mountain. And this is exactly what Fantasia Asia team and I did on a warm winter morning.

Upon our arrival at the Wat Tham Seua parking lot, at 6 am in the morning, we quickly explored the main temple at ground level before embarking on our trek. 

A red replica of the Emerald Buddha

The steps are 1260, and this is reminded to you right away by banners and post at the bottom of the karst hill. We started our ascent with boosted energy and motivation, and since I have done this trek a number of times, let me warn you straight away about a few important details:

– There is a tendency to climb the first hundreds of steps too fast; you risk overtiring yourself and to find the rest of the climb strenuous

– There are 1260 steps, doubling to over 2500 for the round trip. None of them of the same height or width, so do not assume you have mastered your pace and do not forget about watching out your steps; should you slip or misplace your foot, the fall can have tragic consequences. 

The massive Buddha statue sitting cross-legged and receiving a gentle breeze at Wat Tham Seua

– At every landing, a column is marked with the number of steps climbed so far. Checking on them regularly can be a mistake: they will surely give you a boost of energy at the beginning when the numbers roll fast, but they can turn a bit depressing later on when you seem to be near the top and this number is so painfully slow to increase.

– Families of hungry monkeys populate the starting section of the climb (and the ending), and they are known to be great thieves: they will either try to grab a snack or a water bottle from your hands or rucksack (and they can fight for it) or they may turn naughty and try to steal your camera, your hat or your phone. Do carry a stick and do not show food. Do protect your belonging.

– Trekkers on this track will sweat, and their skin will attract mosquitoes. Either keep on the move or accept a few bites every time you stop for a break. 

Buddha statues waiting for the sun to appear

We tackled this trek with fitness and nature in mind, and we tried to fully admire the marvelous landscape that kept changing around us as we climbed: deep gorges covered by diverse vegetation that changes with the altitude and various species of birds that freely fly in the sky observing us from high above. Having to climb those steps sounds like a very daunting task, but the trick is to take your time to walk and stop along the climb up and admire the view. It is definitely not a race, and the average time needed to reach the top is about 1 hour to 1.5 hours with stops along the way, and about half that time to walk back down.

Reaching the top and seeing the stupa for the first time gives quite a sense of rewarding. We washed our faces in the fountain right at the entrance, took off our shoes in sign of respect for a sacred area, and climbed the few steps to the higher floor, where we admired stunning 360 degrees views of the surrounding countryside, of Krabi Town and of the Andaman Sea.

First sections were average, the hardship came later

We took a stroll around the small area and enjoyed the presence of a massive Buddha statue sitting cross-legged and receiving the gentle breeze that usually blows in the summit. To the West, the town and the coastal area of Krabi province were at our feet. Further, we saw mangrove forests surrounding rivers that mix with the sea, the Saitai Massif of karst mountains, expanses of pineapple fields, and the different greens of palm plantations. 

Walking North, we came across what is known as a ‘Buddha footprint’ embedded in the rock, and past that, a few steps up, a sacred sala, or gazebo, from where we had a clear view of the Khao Phanom Bencha mountain and its range. Time flew as we marveled at all those beauties, and soon it started to feel quite hot, and our bellies claimed some food. It was time to make our way down. 

Statue of hermit Rusee

This is perhaps the worst of the trek. Do not underestimate your way back, which depends on your knees and calves, strained under the weight of your body for 1.260 steps! It is essential to pay attention to where you place your feet, keep your knees flexible, do not go too fast and concentrate on the steps, and all will go well. We did not make too many stops and, with the right time and attention, made it down safely. This trek was indeed a healthful start of the day, and we drove towards a deserved breakfast. 

The enjoyment of this trek will depend on you physical shape, and even if you are in good shape, the heat and humidity may make it a difficult hike. Having said that, I believe everyone should attempt it, kids, adults and aged persons too; this trip is definitely worth the effort and you will experience the many positive emotions this climb has made us feel.

TIPS

I am kissed by the first rays of the sun

Do not attempt the climb without a stock of water bottles. The air is humid, the climb hard and long, and dehydration will soon appear if you do not keep up the drinking. Filtered water is available at the top for drinking and refilling your bottle. 

Every landing is equipped by a rubbish bin geared up with anti-monkeys net: use them!

Leave early in the morning and do the trek up before the heat rises.

Consider a pre-dawn climb to watch the sunrise or a sunset ascent (especially on a full moon), which are becoming popular.

prayers bells

At Wat Tham Seua the feeling is casual but the site is holy and should be respected: dress appropriately. 

HOW TO REACH: take a taxi or motor-taxi from Krabi Town; if self-driving, take the way to the airport and turn left at the Wat Tham Seua traffic light, a few hundred meters before Big C complex. 

To watch our video on the trek, click on this Youtube link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KniCVYaGvW8 

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Indonesia is filled with temples that are magical and have mind-blowing architectures. Heading west along the main road to Pemuteran, in the north of Bali, a trio of very interesting temples dating back to the 16th Century is nestled between the mountains and the sea. The temples are located in the Pulaki area and are named Pura Pabean, Pula Pulaki and Pura Melanting. The one I want to tell you about today is called Pura Pabean, also known as Geriya Konco Dewi.

the road sign for Pura Pabean

Pura Pabean is located on hilly grounds bordering the ocean and it overlooks the picturesque coast towards Pemuteran. We were on the way back from a day trip to Bali Barat National Park and I saw the temple seaside parking-lot by chance. I parked the car by some welcoming umbrellas and ceremonial flags, and we started climbing the few steps that led to the temple entrance. The short climb was worth its while for the view over the vast ocean below. Stunning.

Halfway through, the first monkeys came to watch us. They stood still on the iron railing, peeping at us without much interest.

monkey by the steps

At the top, a whole troop of primates played on the ground they looked non-threatening, still we had become quite wary of these animals, which can nick anything not securely attached to you. I advise to leave sunglasses or drink bottles behind.

Sunglasses were not needed, as several menacing clouds were covering the sky, leaving no chance for the sun rays to carve through them. We were apparently the only visitors at the time; inside the temple grounds, we silently marveled at the unusual blend of Balinese and Chinese decorations, with Hinduism and Taoism symbols such as the poisitive Hindu deity Shiva, Confucius, as well as one complex dedicated to Kuan Yin and the Buddha; a great marriage of different cultures often exhibited in Bali temples.

temple compound

There are impressive buildings complete with symmetric structures, art sculptures and unique bas-reliefs. The lush mountains behind, crowned by dark-grey clouds, served as the perfect backdrop. Lotus ponds hosting fish and lotus plants completed the picture. Oh, and the ever-present monkeys of course, escorting us with a hint of curiosity.

A beautifully carved arch welcomed us to a descending stairs that leads down to the beach at the bottom.

carving arch inviting to descend the steps

This is a great way to gain a privileged location from where to take pictures. Down at the beach at the bottom, the vast expanse of the open sea seemed to challenge us. There are large sacred stones arbitrarily piled and huge trees in bloom. Looking up at the temple from this vintage point gave us a good view of the compound.

A later chat with a Balinese local friend provided us with a more complete perspective of Pura Pabean. First of all, my friend stressed how crucial it is to understand the significance and meaning of Balinese temples: most are built either high up on the mountains (symbolizing the good – where sympathetic gods live) or down by the sea (symbolizing the evil – where the demons live).

the view over the west from Pura Pabean

There are two theories about the utility of the temple. Ones suggests that Pura Pabean  served as an entrance check point to Bali for Chinese seafarer merchants carrying a wide range of merchandise to be sold on the island several centuries ago. This has not been historically confirmed and seems to have been brought about by the fact that ‘Pabean’ translated into English means ‘customs’. The other theory states the temple was dedicated to sailors and fishermen departing from Bali, who would come here for their final prayer and to ask for a safe journey.

Pura Pabean is easy to find. It is opposite Pura Pulaki, on the major Singaraja-Gilimanuk road, about 50km from Lovina. A notice at the bottom of the beach steps advises a sarong and a sash are required; we did not need these, yet if you are planning to visit Bali temples, I advise always to carry these items with you. Find location and coordinates on http://wikimapia.org/27501661/Pura-Pabean

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