It was during one of my wanderings around the small town of Abadeh in Iran that I discovered an unexpected gem. The Abbas Gholi Khan Historical House is one of the ancient buildings in Abadeh: it dates back to the period of the Qajars, a Turcoman dynasty of Persia who were originally a tribe settled in the Iranian Caucasus who ruled Persia from 1794 to 1925. Their kingdom, called the Sublime State of Persia, was founded by Muḥammad Khān Qājār after defeating and killing the last Zand ruler precisely in 1794. But let’s go back to the Abbas Gholi Khan: the front boundary walls in earthen bricks and at least 5 meters high, and a massive wooden door surmounted by a splendid and colourful mosaic with Arabic writing clearly indicated that there was something special in there, so I entered. Wonders of wonders, inside I found myself in a courtyard adorned by a rectangular fountain in the center, and all around local craft shops as well as small rooms that house a sort of museum. While old amphorae, water pumps from other times and antique wooden furniture have been placed in the courtyard, inside the rooms there is a real exhibition, with antique beds and sofas, colourful mosaics, copper kitchen utensils, dishes and amphorae, a mixture of paraphernalia and miscellaneous objects, as well as a collection of hundreds of matchboxes. This is one of the most interesting features of Abbas Gholi Khan Historical House, thanks to which I experienced the feeling of traveling into the past and returning not only to the Qajar era, but to other more recent periods as well. The architecture of the Abbas Gholi Khan is a perfect example of a central courtyard house with unique stucco and wooden decorations. I read that the southern part of the building, including a well from which the drinking water supply came, the water tank, the entrance and the kitchen were demolished in the seventies to make room for the widening of the road. A pity they have not managed to preserve this incredible time-machine as it should. This too is a bit like a caravanserai, similar to the Timche Sarafian but much more beautiful and well-kept. Here I found some similarities with the Havelis of Rajasthan, in India. In the upper floor, balconies overlooking the square host tables and chairs, an invitation to climb the stairs that I didn’t miss. Above, apart from the spacious terraces and the lovely balconies from which to admire the courtyard below, I found a cafeteria which includes various rooms, also furnished like a small museum: a mixture of arabesque and European styles of the early twentieth century, with vintage objects on racks and shelves, chairs and tables in classic wood and various 70s objects such as old radios and televisions. I approached the girl behind the counter, and while I initially intended to order a coffee, intrigued by the shiny and modern coffee machine on display, I casually eyed a shelf where a series of glass jars containing various types of teas and herbal teas were displayed , which immediately won me over. I ordered a rose tea and sat down. I was the only customer, but that didn’t last for long. Towards dusk the place filled up with young locals. They come here to have a coffee or a smoothie and chat, play backgammon or simply spend some time between boys and girls (without a veil) away from the eyes of the ‘right-thinking’. The day in Abadeh was warm but the sunset already heralds a chilli evening. The mountains surrounding the city are still covered in snow, although winter is near to reaching its epilogue. I enjoy the delicious rose tea served in a pretty cup with floral motifs, sweetened with traditional sticks covered with yellow caramelised sugar, and I rest, thinking about how nice it is to wander and meet magical places like Abbas Gholi Khan Historical House. For a full display of my PHOTOS click HERE

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