A baruk is the main section of a traditional Malaysian Bidayuh longhouse. In the several local districts, baruk used to be called with different names by the Bidayuh ethnic groups, according to their different dialects. For instance, in Padawan a baruk was called ‘Panggah’ while at Serian it is known as ‘Baluh’ or ‘Balui’. All and all, we can state that baruk is a great synonym of the Bidayuh ethnic people in Sarawak. History tells that during the old days, baruk was a place of congregation for Bidayuh warriors. The baruk’s interior is usually filled with weapons, gongs, wooden masks and other personal effects. On the inside of a Baruk roof usually hang human skulls belonging to the ancient enemies of this community killed by the Bidayuh warriors. This is why the baruk was sometimes known as the head-house. It is believed that when the Bidayuh people were atheist and pagan, the baruk functioned as a venue for cultural ceremonies, a place to practice Adat Oma, a spiritual religion quite similar to the one the Red Indians practiced, with homage paid to land, including the mountains, the forests, rivers and things connected with nature and their spirits. It was at the baruk that the Bidayuh people also danced. It is for me still amazing to believe that such small communities of primal people managed to build such spectacular buildings with no technology at all. Their creativity is what makes me really attracted to the baruk architectural design. But let me enlighten you with something amazing: the Bidayuh communities never used iron nails to build their houses, and the same goes for the baruk. These sturdy and long-lasting buildings are tight together with ropes made out of tree bark and rattan. This is supported by most of the elders in my own community. When I met Kampung Opar headman, he told me that baruk architecture use a system of joints to hold in place building materials. He added that the Bidayuh are very concerned about ventilation and thanks to that, they capitalized on air convection to keep the baruk structure cool on the inside. Of course, the building of a baruk follows a well-established procedure. A baruk is round and built off the ground. Hardwood is used for the posts, with bamboo and/or wood as floor, while the roof is thatched. The baruk has only one door which is reached by climbing a flight of steps. The window of a baruk is the roof, part of which can be opened or closed according to the need for ventilation; an impressive system I would say. The inside of a baruk usually includes a traditional stove and a fireplace, mainly used for cooking purposes during certain events like Gawai Dayak festival or during rituals. A baruk is normally positioned right in the middle of a Bidayuh village so it is easy for the villagers to gather there. The baruk is indeed a very important element to any tribe, a piece of heritage that should be retained for future generations to admire, as it is a significant item of the Bidayuh people, displaying their cultural heritage and identity. I totally agreed with local minister Dato Sri Micheal Manyin when he said that today the baruk is quite appropriate to serve the modern needs of the Bidayuh community and should not be regarded only as a mere head-house. Words are not enough to describe the great icon that is the baruk, so I invite you to visit one in person in order to experience and witness its appealing design. You can found authentic baruk in a few places: at the Sarawak Cultural Village, at Kampung Opar in Bau and at Kampung Benuk in Padawan. Happy baruk!

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Since I was on a 3 days tour to Annah Rais longhouse recently, I took the opportunity to visit nearby Annah Rais Hot Springs. I awoke rested after my second night at Karum Bidayuh Homestay in Annah Rais. I breakfasted with the usual dose of double-egg omelet and rice and I enjoyed an energizing serving of Sarawak coffee, all kindly prepared by our host Miss Karum whom, while we had our food, she got ready for the drive to the Annah Rais Hot Springs. I was so glad I had decided to wake up early and make my way to the hot springs: 8 am is such a great time to arrive there. The place was totally empty, the only person there was a gardener, busy trimming the grass and pruning plants in the well taken-care of gardens that run on both sides along the 5 minutes walk from the entrance to the springs. I have heard you can have the place all to yourself during weekdays when there are no locals at the springs. By the ticket counter, unattended yet, there was a coffee shop that looked like it had not been opened for some time. Down at the site, on a hill platform beside a small river below, there are basic showers and changing rooms, though they look quite unattended and a bit run down, so I would go for the open showers outside the stalls when you need a rinse. The river was very clean with clear crystal water. A cement staircase takes down to the stream where visitors have to wade across cold waters to reach the main pool. This wade can be tricky since the currents can be quite fast and you need to be sure-footed in order to not give in to the waters and to the slippery stones. I crossed the knee-deep cold water carefully and reached a man-made pool on the opposite side, complete with a wooden platform that serves as a sunbathing area. The weather was fantastic and I changed into my swimming gear, observing worryingly as, from a few points in the depth of the pool water, small springs released boiling bubbles. I sank into the hot invigorating water, which I reckoned to be about 40degrees, and after a few minutes my body mellowed and I felt like being in another world. I closed my eyes and concentrated deeply in order to bear the light discomfort given by the very hot water. The nature around me was quiet, and only a few sounds could be heard: crickets and the water slowly gurgling down from the small stream below. I relaxed and felt the spring water invigorating and refreshing tired leg muscles. I opened my eyes again and a huge butterfly, showing off her black velvety wings with bright-green features, was flying in circles around my head. She left only to give way to a couple of red dragonflies that stopped and stalled right in front of my face, still and motionless apart from their fast-beating wings. The area is so beautiful and natural that I really felt at one with nature. Ten minutes into my dip, I got out and entered the cold river below; my body welcomed this initiative, and I felt so healthy and refreshed, revitalized. After two more of these hot/cold water switches, I stood on top of the wooden decking and did a few rounds of sun-salutation. Yoga was such a pleasure in that peaceful environment. As more visitors made their way to the pool, we went to check out the small hot spring further downriver, which was right in the middle of the river. The water there was fairly hot, not hot enough to boil or cook an egg, but hot enough to probably burn you a bit. We gave it a pass and went back to the waiting area. Back there, there were lots of people soaking in the pool, and this confirmed the early bird visit was a good idea! FACTS It is interesting to know that the pools were built by the local community and are at the service of visitors. You must bring your own food for picnics near the river and meals; do come prepared as the nearest food outlet is a long way off. The ticket attendant at the entrance sells soft drinks. At the Annah Rais Hot Springs there is no info on water temperature, advised bathing times and benefits of the hot waters. There is instead a board telling you that you swim at your own risk. Be advised that you need to check the water temperature before dipping in, and that you should keep the dipping sessions to a maximum of 10 minutes each, alternating them with a shorter dip into the cool water river below or a cold shower. Before you leave Annah Rais Hot Springs, please keep the place clean by throwing your rubbish into the rubbish bins provided. Located the Padawan District, Annah Rais Hot Springs are a 1-hour scenic drive from Kuching city along the way to Borneo Highlands Resort, and just 3 km from Annah Rais village, which makes them easily reachable on foot or by bicycle. Entrance ticket is 5 Rm each. Asian Itinerary stayed at the Karum Bidayuh Homestay. For information and bookings, contact Miss Karum or Jenny at Karum Bidayuh Homestay, tel. (+60) 0168981675, email yeominghua@yahoo.com or t_weiyu86@hotmail.com,  or check their website at www.longhouseinborneo.com

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Have you ever been to a longhouse? Would you like to stay in a longhouse? Are you curious about how the people in a longhouse go by their daily life?Here in Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo, the land of the hornbills, there are lots of longhouses that offer that chance. The one I went to and I suggest is called Annah Rais Longhouse. I got curious straight away when I first met 44 years old Jenny Dudu, the woman who was responsible to make me feel at home during this trip, and enquired about the name of the village. Apparently, the original name was Annah Raih, which means a ‘village in a valley’. Villagers later proposed to call the village Kampung Senah Negeri, which practically means the same thing. However, the Government refused to approve it as Negeri can also means ‘state’. The misspelled name of Annah Rais was finally granted. Would you believe me if I told you that this village history goes back 280 years? Located 63 kilometer from Kuching City, a 1 hour and 45 minutes drive away, Annah Rais is a village surrounded by beautiful mountains, rivers and trees. It has more than 600 residents within 137 households. When you take the trouble to come here, you will be rewarded not only by feeling the nature under your feet and around you, but also by meeting the warm people from the village. Try to say “Ani agah nga” or how are you? For sure they will reply back! Thomas and I arrived at this unique and fabulous place on a late afternoon last June, and we were immediately welcomed by Jenny, who brought us to Karum Bidayuh Homestay, a homestay situated at the far side of the village. I can honestly tell you that my first impression of the village upon arrival was just normal. However, I discovered how amazing it is from the moment I started walking. I noticed that the roofed longhouse had a small garden at the corner with different types of vegetable: pumpkin, tapioca, corn and more. Besides that, a long platform covered entirely by suspended bamboo, and in the houses, friendly villagers. Even though they were busy doing their craft work, they still turned to say hi, and smiled. I found this to be good and unique, don’t you agree? After a few more meters of walking, we met the homestay owner, Miss Karum.  Her homestay is so beautiful, made of wood and with a tin roof.  The wall was painted green and I could not believe my eyes that her homestay was so clean. There is a sofa set along with a television and some traditional local art hanging on the wall. Karum is a nice woman who welcomed us with all of her heart. She showed us around the house, took us to the small and tidy kitchen, to the toilet, and lastly to our rooms on the upper floor. The rooms are simple but really comfortable and from my window, I could see the beautiful longhouse area. Since that night it was raining, I can’t really tell you about the sky, but the air was really fresh. Take advantage if you go there: breathe easy and a lot, expelling all the toxins you store in your body. That evening, Karum cooked for us a very delicious traditional food. We can assure you she is really good at cooking, I am sure you would enjoy her food too. The dinner consisted of a chicken soup with pumpkin, some local vegetable called ‘tepuk’, tapioca leaves and white plant. Once we finished with dinner, Karum shared her local rice wine with us, made by herself! I can tell you it is the nicest rice wine I have ever had, really smooth and a bit sweet. If you give it a go, I advise you not to over drink it as rice wine can make you drunk without you realizing it. Karum told me she sells the rice wine at an affordable 10 RM per bottle, so don’t hesitate to buy a bottle or two for back home. Apart from rice wine, Karum also makes a traditional tea known as ‘Bakah Baras’ in Bidayuh Biatah language. She told me that this tea was originally made from a special tree that can only be found in the forest. To make that into a tea, first the trunk needs to be dried in the hot sun, and later cut and split into small bits. After that, she cooks one or two pieces of it together with pandan leaves to make it into a tea. Bakah Baras is good for health, especially for diabetes, cholesterol and blood flow. Since it can only be found in Annah Rais, people in the city call it the ‘Annah Rais Tea’, a drink inherited from generation to generation. If you interested about this tea, I suggest you contact Karum, and no worries, its cheap at only 5 RM per plastic bag. Full with energy from the dinner and excited about our trip to the waterfall the next day, Thomas and I slept really well with our windows opened: no need for air-con there! For information and bookings, contact Miss Karum or Jenny at Karum Bidayuh Homestay – tel. (+60) 0168981675 – emailyeominghua@yahoo.com or t_weiyu86@hotmail.com or check their website at www.longhouseinborneo.com Furthermore, to know about what happened the day after, read Thomas account on the jungle trekking to the waterfall at http://asianitinerary.com/annah-rais-trek-to-the-waterfall/

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Villagers are slowly appearing behind open doors of wooden houses. Roosters sing repeating songs and cats roam around, occasionally showing a fight or an act of love. This is Annah Rais village, so near town, so easily reached by road, yet so much a world apart. Staff looks like a really nice, quiet guy; he tights his knife holder around his waist, lights a cigarette and prompts us to start the walk. We leave the village small lanes and enter a muddy terrain, climbing steps made up of bamboo branches. The ascent is steep. The undergrowth around us is so full of humus, with vast forests of amazingly tall and thick bamboo and the occasional ferns and palms. Sweat runs copiously from my head and from every pore of my body, and we are forced to make several stops in order to rehydrate. Staff uses his machete skilfully to make walking sticks out of bamboo for us to aide our walk, and we surely appreciate it! As the vegetation gets denser and the humidity higher, we slowly start to realize the challenge of walking along these leech-infested paths. It is advisable to wear long trousers and proper socks in order to avoid the bloodsuckers banqueting with your vital juice. Also, remember to carry plenty of water supply even if your guide carries some for you. You will use it! Staff occasionally clears the path with his sharp machete, moving falling bamboo branches, logs and overhanging vegetation. He tells us these paths are used only by local farmers to reach their cultivations of tapioca, banana and various other vegetables. We cross craftily-made bamboo bridges over suspended small streams, and occasionally stop to observe and take a picture of colourful wild flowers, orchids, pitcher plants and unique mushrooms, with only the sound of nature accompanying us. We keep on walking for about two hours; the last section of the track is so wet from the night rain that our boots sink in the muddy terrain, making us loose balance. The reward is indeed worth the effort: the three-tiered waterfall has jumps of at least 30 meters each, the last two discharging water in natural ponds that call for a dip! Staff makes camp, lights a fire and cuts huge chunks of hollow bamboo branches in which he places the chicken he has carried from home together with stems of various ferns and palms picked up during the walk, closing the top with fresh leaves and placing the natural container right inside the fire. Meanwhile I climb to the upper tier, take off my soaking wet clothes, place them to dry on a sun-hit stone and free my ankles from small sucking leeches clinging to my skin and hiding inside my shoes. Job done, I enjoy a dip in the cold, refreshing pond. I then decide to daringly sit on a wet stone right below the waterfall and linger a while under the powerful wall of water hitting my back. The impact is so violent that I cannot bear more than a few minutes in that position. Happy and refreshed, I sit on a moss-covered stone to dry myself under the scorching sun, disturbed only by the sudden call from Staff: lunch is served. We sit on a bench made of bamboo and eat generous servings of rice in banana leaves, chicken and palm hearts cooked in bamboo and boiled tapioca leaves. Delicious! The walk back is a bit of a photocopy of the walk there, only we walk faster with a fewer stops. By the time we reach back Annah Rais, where Miss Karum receives us with a smile and a couple of ice cold beers, 7 hours have passed! We are exhausted but so happy to have achieved a wonderful adventure in the foot of the ancient Borneo mountains: a trek to the waterfall! Special thanks go to Karum Bidayuh Homestay and to Staff (a few shots of rice wine that evening made him more than happy!). We highly recommend this tour; yet, if you are about to embark on this adventure, please remember that a few people walk half of the way and decide to walk back… The hike lasts 2 hours each way and it is de-man-ding. The weather is hot and humid and the copious sweating can take its toll, especially on a hot day. The ascents/descents are steep. If you are concerned, you are not physically fit enough, you are not used to trekking in the jungle or have a medical condition, ask Miss Karum to arrange a car to cover at least half of the trek and leave you to a nearer starting point, or opt to nearby hot springs, still a nice experience but not so hard.     For information and bookings, contact Miss Karum or Jenny at Karum Bidayuh Homestay tel. (+60) 0168981675 email yeominghua@yahoo.com or t_weiyu86@hotmail.com or check their website at www.longhouseinborneo.com

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