Per la versione in ITALIANO sui tatuaggi tribali  ENTRARE NELL’ARTICOLO.

Photos by Guglielmo Zanchi (Pluto)

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Baruk at the Sarawak Cultural Village, SCV

Il baruk è la sezione principale di una longhouse tradizionale Bidayuh, nel Borneo malese. Nei vari distretti locali, il baruk veniva chiamato con termini differenti dai diversi gruppi Bidayuh, secondo il loro dialetto. Per esempio, nel Padawan il baruk era chiamato ‘Panggah’, mentre a Serian è conosciuto come ‘baluh’ o ‘balui’. Si può in ogni caso affermare che il baruk è importante simbolo delle persone di etnia Bidayuh nel Sarawak.

La storia narra che nel passato il baruk era un luogo di congregazione per i guerrieri Bidayuh. L’interno di un baruk è di solito pieno di armi, gong, maschere di legno e altri effetti personali. Sul soffitto di un Baruk vi si appendevano crani umani appartenenti agli antichi nemici della comunità in questione, uccisi dai guerrieri Bidayuh. Questo è il motivo per cui un baruk era a volte conosciuto come casa-incontro.

Skulls, pottery and more in the storage area of the baruk

Si ritiene che quando il popolo Bidayuh era ateo e pagano, il baruk serviva come luogo per cerimonie culturali, o per praticare Adat Oma, una religione spirituale del tutto simile a quella che gli indiani americani praticavano, omaggiando alla terra, le montagne, le foreste, i fiumi e tutto ciò che era legato alla natura ed agli spiriti. Era nel baruk dove il popolo Bidayuh ballava.

Trovo incredibile e sorprendente che piccole comunità di persone così primitive sono riuscite a costruire edifici tanto spettacolari senza nessun tipo di tecnologia. È questa loro creatività che tanto mi rende attratta al disegno architettonico del baruk.

Detail of walls

Ma lasciate che vi sveli qualcosa di sorprendente: le comunità Bidayuh  non hanno mai usato chiodi di ferro per costruire le loro case, e lo stesso vale per il baruk. Questi edifici robusti e duraturi sono tenuti insieme con corde fatte di corteccia di albero e di rattan.

Questo mi è stato ribadito dalla maggior parte degli anziani della mia comunità. Quando ho incontrato il capo villaggio di Kampung Opar, mi ha confermato che l’architettura di un baruk utilizza un sistema di giunti per tenere assieme i materiali usati per la sua costruzione. Ha pure aggiunto che i Bidayuh si preoccupano molto per la ventilazione, ed utilizzano un sistema di convezione termica per mantenere la struttura del baruk fresca all’interno.

Fireplace inside the baruk

Ovviamente, la costruzione di un baruk segue una procedura ben consolidata. Il baruk è rotondo e costruito sollevato da terra. Le colonne sono di legno massiccio, il pavimento di bambù o di legno, mentre il tetto è di paglia. Un baruk ha una sola porta, che si raggiunge salendo una scalinata. La finestra di un baruk è il suo tetto, parte del quale può essere aperto o chiuso a seconda delle necessità di ventilazione; un sistema rimarchevole direi. L’interno di un baruk di solito comprende una stufa tradizionale ed un camino, utilizzato principalmente come cucina durante determinati eventi come il festival Gawai Dayak, o durante i rituali. Il baruk è solitamente posizionato proprio nel bel mezzo di un villaggio Bidayuh per renderlo di facile accesso alla popolazione del villaggio.

baruk on stilts

Il Baruk è infatti un elemento molto importante per ogni tribù, un patrimonio che deve essere conservato perché le generazioni future lo possano ammirare, in quanto è un elemento significativo del popolo Bidayuh, già che simboleggia la loro identità. Mi trovo totalmente d’accordo con il ministro locale Dato Sri Micheal Manyin quando dice che oggigiorno il baruk è qualcosa del tutto appropriata per soddisfare le moderne esigenze della comunità Bidayuh e non deve essere considerato solo come una casa-incontro.

Le parole non bastano per descrivere la grande icona che è un baruk, quindi vi invito a visitarne uno di persona al fine di vivere il suo accattivante design. Sono pochi i posti dove potete trovare un autentico baruk: al Sarawak Cultural Village, a Kampung Opar nel municipio di Bau, ed a Kampung Benuk a Padawan. Buon baruk!

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Il Museo del Sarawak si erge orgoglioso su una collina non lontano da Merdeka Palace Hotel, ed è il più antico museo mai creat in Borneo, costruito nel 1891 e ampliato alla sua forma attuale nel 1911.

Alfred Russel Wallace

Fu un famoso naturalista britannico, Alfred Russel Wallace, a consigliare ed incoraggiarne l’apertura al secondo Rajah del Sarawak, Charles Vyner Brooke. In quel momento, Wallace si trovava in Sarawak per raccogliere dei campioni. Inizialmente, l’edificio fu costruito principalmente come una casa permanente per esporre arti locali autoctone e tecniche di mestieri artigianali, così come collezioni di animali locali.

Sarwawak Museum in the past

Il Museo del Sarawak è stato costruito in uno stile elegante e semplice che ricorda un epoca vittoriana dal tocco prettamente inglese: la sua architettura è stata infatti ispirata dalla regina Anna, che regnò tra il 1702 ed il 1714. Fin dalla sua istituzione, l’edificio ha subito diverse ristrutturazioni e modifiche, con un design che può essere collegato ad Europa, Australia e America.

Sarawak Museum main building

Il Museo del Sarawak è diviso in due piani. L’ala est del piano terra presenta una collezione di esemplari naturali della fauna del Sarawak: rettili, mammiferi, uccelli e altro ancora. L’ala ovest ospita invece una mostra sullo sviluppo dell’industria petrolifera in Sarawak. Il primo piano ha reperti etnografici del popolo del Sarawak, e pone enfasi sulle tribù indigene come gli Iban, i Bidayuh, i Melanau, gli Orang Ulu, i Malay e così via. In mostra ci sono diversi tipi di creazioni indigene; da notare una longhouse, alcuni strumenti musicali, artigianato e barche. Gli interni della galleria sono illuminati da abbaini piazzati sul soffitto del museo, che consentono una grande area espositiva sulle pareti.

Indication boards

Mentre fu in gran parte gestito dai colonialisti britannici, durante l’occupazione giapponese della Malesia, il Museo del Sarawak fu posto sotto la direzione di un comprensivo ufficiale giapponese, ed è per questo che il museo ha subito solo lievi danni durante quel periodo. Oggigiorno, il Museo del Sarawak ospita inoltre il Museo di Etologia ed è sotto la direzione del signor Ipoi Datan.

Trovarsi all’interno del Museo del Sarawak per me significa molto, perché mi dà un’ottimo background della storia del mio stato. La modernizzazione del Sarawak proviene dal suo passato e questo passato deve essere conservato perché lo possano vedere anche le generazioni future. Questo museo rappresenta l’inizio di Sarawak, per cui i suoi visitatori possono indirettamente conoscere questo straordinario stato.

Per avere maggiori informazioni sul Museo del Sarawak è possibile accedere al loro sito web www.museum.sarawak.gov.my oppure contattare + 60 82244232 / + 60 82244261 o via e-mail a lipoid@sarawak.gov.my

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Situated in the foot of the mountains, less than 2 hours drive from Kuching City, Bengoh Resettlement Scheme – or BRS – was the location chosen for the Padawan International 4X4 Off Roaders Extreme Challenge 2015.

A cloudy day

The Bengoh Resettlement Scheme was at first set up in order to relocate villages hailing from four village affected by the Bengoh Dam Project, namely Kampung Taba Sait, Pain Bojong, Rejoi and Semban.

For more information about some of these villagers, read my previous article on the Bidayuh Bangle’s user: http://asianitinerary.com/a-journey-in-search-of-the-bidayuh-bangles-users/

The Bengoh Resettlement Scheme has a lovely and perfectly preserved nature and a great challenging terrain, an ideal place for extreme sports such as four wheel-drive.

Padawan International 4X4 Off Roaders Extreme Challenge 2015 was organized by the Padawan Municipal Council, creating interest in the area on those who made it to the event.

44 years old Agnes Timot from Kampung Sirak said the scheme area was amazing: “The scenery here is suited to hold activities. The atmosphere is quite beautiful”.

Car toppling over while climbing the hill

According to event participant Dayang Majalifah Awang Mustafa, from Sarawak’s Ironlady team, the event achieves a good exposure both for people and for the state: “For me, this is the best place to promote tourism. They get see the wonderful area with such an original black earth like they have here; I am a local and I had never seen this in Borneo, this is apparently the only place in Borneo to have this”.

Meanwhile, participant Atiqah Abdullah from the Brunei Team said: “The place itself is quite okay; looking at the terrain, it is so different in terms, so soft”.

36 years old Mario Vicardo from the Team Asia Perkasa, West Kalimantan, Indonesia, asserted that Padawan should be developed more towards this sport as it is beautiful, and also because he was fully satisfied with the challenging terrain.

Stuck in the mud

State Assemblyman Datuk Dr. Jerip Susil intervened to say that the sport will be a platform to promote the scheme towards tourism from outside and within the country. He added that Chief Minister Datuk Patinggi Tan Sri Adenan Satem also supports the efforts made by the various parties in the international class sports organization. This is because the sport can indirectly entertain and enlighten people in the scheme; the state government will assist them in turn, organizing a variety of activities that will also benefit the local population.

“These resettlement schemes are part of the government program to promote the area, and it aims to make resettled people understand that there can be lots of things that can be installed for them”, stressed out Datuk Dr. Jerip Susil.

Organizer Wilfred Yap told us that due to the competition being at a national level, the recognition is important so that participants who follow the sport can be recognized as well. “I mean, in the past only four wheel drivers to a club level could join the competition. Now, all participants have the chance to get a recognition “.

Hot Indonesia driver trying to reverse his car

The game includes 3 main categories: Category A – very rugged or hardcore, totally modified vehicles. Category B – rugged and semi-modified vehicles. Category C – medium-rugged vehicle that has never been modified.

“We have 13 special stages and participants have to go through 13 challenges. One of the challenge is hill climbing the hill” said Wilfred Yap. He also added that this will be one of the annual events as it is part of Padawan Municipal Council goal. Therefore, he hopes, more participants will join next year.

Participants and the public also welcomed the idea to make this into an annual event. Mario Vicardo told us that “off-road events like this are excellent and professionally managed: marshals, medics, master track, they all work really well”.

Regulatory aspects need to be improved, according to participants, so let’s hope this can be achieved in next year event. The Sabah team has often been the winner of these events at various places like the Rainforest Challenge 2014 in Negeri Sembilan. They firmly believe that Padawan is an excellent place that can be expanded towards this sport.

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Canada hill gardens

Canada Hill. It sounds like a country to me, surprisingly enough, Canada Hill is not a country or an area in Canada, it is an area of Miri, Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo. It is believed Canada Hill got its name from a Canadian who used to live in the area. The original local name of the area is Bukit Telaga Minyak, as Canada Hill is indeed Sarawak’s and Malaysia’s birthplace of the petroleum industry, the place where the first oil well was drilled.

The Grand Old Lady

One of Canada Hill’s famous attractions the Old Grand Lady, which is not a frail old woman: it is Miri Well N.1, the iconic derrick structure of Miri where the first well in the country first struck oil on December 1910, milking for several decades to turn a poor country to a developed nation. This 30-meters-high landmark was built by Shell Company and was indeed the beginning of Miri City modernization. Back in the 1800s, Miri was just a fishing village, known as the second city in Sarawak.

Petroleum Museum entrance

Next to the Old Grand Lady is the Petroleum Museum. Built and designed to share the history and technological development of oil and gas in the country, the Petroleum Museum hosts an exhibition with plenty of information about the process involved from the extraction of crude oil to the final product, showcasing petroleum’s uses, sources and its impact on our daily lives, and taking visitors to a journey through millions of years of history of the Permian Basin, where the museum is located. There is also a scale model of an oil platform complete with written description of its function to the industry.

The time capsule

On the outdoors there is a historical Time Capsule with commemorative photographs, books, local newspaper and printed documents as well as the events of the day. There is a display of oil drilling equipment and a garden hosting the model of the Nodding Donkey, used sometimes by the industry to pump crude oil as it is more economical then using the oil rig. Next to the model, there are various commemorating and informative murals and plates.

The Miri Petroleum Museum opens daily 9am to 4,30pm except Mondays and public holidays, and is currently undergoing a $18 million renovation with some galleries closed and discounted admission offered.

Way to Kampung Haji Wahed

Back to Canada Hill, you can take an interesting visit to Kampung Haji Wahed, a local village inhabited by Kedayan people. To reach it, turn left at the intersection at the top of the hill and follow the road. The kampung itself is quite unique, with old traditional wooden houses mixing with modern structures. There is a small shop and a green lawn there for you to take a rest for a while.

View from Canada hill

Canada Hill is one of the best elevated places from where to admire the entire area of Miri City as well as the South China Sea. The parking lot at the rear of the museum serves as a vantage point overlooking the town, the Miri-Brunei border, the offshore oil rigs and the refineries in nearby Lutong town. Last but not least, at Canada Hill you can even jog on the well-designed path, or, if you are adventurous, use the trekking trails that take you up the hill through a 2 kilometers, 30 minutes walk.

To reach Canada Hill, hail a taxi from Jalan Setia Raja. Enjoy your day out in Miri.

Photos credits: Mardhati Yahya 

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According to a tribal Bidayuh belief Kuih Dam traditional cookies (or Deram in the local language) were prepared in ancient Sarawak to be served for ancestral spirits of those who had passed away. During those times, the Bidayuh people were mainly animists, believing in subtle beings. Today, in line with the passing of time, with the several technological advances as well as with the fact that most Bidayuh people have been converted to Christianity, the tradition has changed. Kuih Dam cookies are now served outdoors right before Gawai Dayak Celebration, which falls yearly right after the harvesting season, between the months of May and June, as well as as an afternoon tea-time snack.

Miah Aheng

So let me share a little more about this savoury delicacy that can only be found in Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo, the land of beauty and wonders. It was during last year while serving in my reporter’s position that I managed to track and interview a cookies maker known as Miah Aheng. Miah is nearly 60 years old, and she has been making Kuih Dam since she was young.

Miah stated that for her, Kuih Dam cookies is synonym with the Bidayuh people as they are made of rice flour, Bidayuh’s staples food. In the old days there were no cakes, biscuits and cookies around, so Bidayuh’s ancestors used rice – the most ready ingredient they had from the paddies, and whatever other available ingredients they could find in nature to make the cookies.

“In the past, people’s lives were hard, there was poverty and there was no such a thing as a store in most villages. My ancestors kept trying to make cookies with what they had, until one day they mastered the practice” – said Miah Aheng.

Some of the ingredients

Apart from a good skills, making Kuih Dam cookies is not an easy process, which requires a keen interest, determination, patience and lots of practice. Miah still remembers her first attempts: “Oh my god! At first it did not work. After two or three attempts I was so fed, and the cookies could not cook let alone be eaten, that I got angry and threw all the flour on the floor. Once I had made 3 kg of dough that did not want to cook at all, and each time I put the cookies in the hot frying pan, they crushed in the oil. I tried again and again, same result. It took me several attempts and years to master the practice, only reaching perfection last year”!

Miah during the preparation process

When I asked Miah what drives her to making cookies, she told me she did it for the love of her beloved father, who really enjoyed eating the cookies. “Ever since my mother had passed away, father kept on mentioning about these cookies. Yet, nobody in my family knew how to make them”. So it was thanks to the love for her father that she learned how to make Kuih Dam. Miah has come up with a special recipe for the cookies, and she now wishes to cook them not only for her family, but also to sell them for those keen on trying.

I believe not many young Bidayuh people know about these traditional cookies. Miah’s efforts in making Kuih Dam should be followed by the young generation in order to keep the tradition away from extinction.

Kuih Dam after fried in the pan

RECIPE

For those interested in making Kuih Dam, this is the way:

INGREDIENTS

2 kilograms rice flour,

2 kilograms palm sugar – gula apong or gula merah

1 cup of flour,

Vegetable oil.

First of all, soak the rice in water for at least 8 hours. Then drain it and pound the rice in a wooden pestle and mortar – locally called as Aruh in Bidayuh language – until it is very fine.

Miah showing the ready cookies

The rice should then be sifted together with the flour. Add in palm sugar or gula apong in the bowl and blend all together. Let the dough to rest in the bowl for a few minutes. Once ready, take a bit of it and make a circle; then knead it, making three holes in the uncooked cookies. Get your pan to a sizzling hot temperature and fry the cookies until your Kuih Dam are ready. Remember your hands should be oily while mixing the ingredients, so that the dough does not come out sticky. Happy cooking!

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Kuching International Bike Week banner

Last Saturday, 5th September, I had the opportunity to be face to face with world famous professional motorcycle stunt rider Aaron Twite at the Kuching International Bike Week (KIBW) City Parade 2015.

Motorcycle stunt riding is often described as a motorcycle sport that involves a professional rider using the motorcycle to do some sort of acrobatic stuff. Usually, the stunt-riding includes wheelies, stoppies and burnouts. Motorcycle stunt riding performances started somewhere in the 70’’s and became more popular in the 80s, reaching a must-see level today. Riders who perform stunt shows use sport and super bikes that are light and powerful as this makes wheelies style easier to achieve.

Cato with Aaron

Back to Aaron Twite, as a first impression I found this 34 years old guy with a warm and welcoming smile to be hot and sexy. It was totally odd to me to chat with such a famous person, especially as he was preparing himself for the best show ever. Yet, I managed to grab his hand, literally, and dragged him for a short interview for the pleasure of Asian Itinerary readers.

But before I share my interview with this spectacular sportsman, I see it best to briefly talk about his background. Aaron Twite is from Atlanta, Georgia, south United State of America. He has been involved in motorcycle stunt riding for 11 years now, and it shows: his performances are great and his skill have made him one of the internationally leading street-bike freestyle riders. Not to mentioned that he has won multiple XDL Championship Series and he has participated in multiple global competitions and motorcycle shows. And yes, he is still a bachelor…

Aaron with his bike

Back to my interview, I found the approach easy since he is such a humble and amicable person.

Aaron told me he started his stunt career as a hobby. At first, he used to ride a motorcycle with his friend, doing motorcycle tricks for fun. As his passion deepened, he progressed and participated in several competitions until stunt riding became his main occupation.

When I asked him whether he ever felt giving up on this passion during the 11 years period, he answered me: “I have never thought of giving up riding motorcycles; perhaps in the future I could possibly move on to another chapter, a career, but right now I’m very happy with travelling and riding”.

He added up that those who want to succeed in this sport should never give up, and also try to do it as safely as possible. “My advice to people who want to start start riding is to go for it. It doesn’t matter what kind of motorcycle you have, or your background. Anybody can do this, and that’s the beauty of it. Just don’t do it in the street and make sure you wear your safety gear”.

Kuching International Bike Week 2015

I then asked him how he felt about being in Kuching, Sarawak, he said he felt very honoured to be on the other side of the world to perform in Sarawak. For him it felt like a fantastic experience and he was truly grateful for it, since it was his first time in Kuching. “This is my first time in Kuching, and as far as I know this is the first International Bike Week Kuching has had, and it looks great so far. Kuching is a really great place, a big city with a relaxed attitude, and it feels the perfect venue for this kind of event. There is so much going on here, and so many different cultures and languages and food. The traveling is indeed one of the best part of my job, since it takes me to see different parts of the world”.

Aaron had a great performance at Kuching International Bike Week, creating a great shows. If I was to grade him, I would likely give him a 10 out of 10. He was so mesmerizing and everybody in Majlis Bandaraya Kuching Selatan (MBKS) ground, the venue of the show, was stunned at his show. His talent was astonishing to say the least, and I encourage you to watch him in Youtube if you are curious about what his stunts are all about: https://www.google.it/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Aaron+Twite+youtube

Professional stunter Aaron Twite

As for the event itself, Kuching International Bike Week is a biennial event organized by Iron Tiger Bikers Club Kuching – Lot 9738, 2nd Floor, Jalan Mendu,93200 Kuching, Malaysia, gathering all the big bikers fans from many places in the world and convoying them together to witness and experience the beauty of Kuching.

This year the event attracted over one thousand big bikers from different countries amongst which the USA, the United Kingdom, Saudi Arabia, Brunei and Australia.

Datin Elly Zalilah Haji Md Yusof, the organizing Chairman, revealed that she has many more activities in plan for biker fans, and that they are targeting over two thousand big bikers for the 2017 edition. Follow them on www.kibw.com.my/ and be ready for some great stunts in 2017!

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Most Malaysian citizens treat hot springs as a place to spend leisure time with families and friends at the weekend. Yet, despite the beauty of an hot springs environment, many do not know that hot springs are believed to cure various ailments. Panchor hot springs in Serian, Sarawak, is one well-known place that can help cure a variety of diseases.

The Panchor Hotsprings

Located 90 kilometers from Kuching City, this hot springs have been operating for more than 5 years and is one of the most famous destination in the city. Panchor hot springs are visited by locals from Kuching and by people from all over the world, especially from Korea and Japan.

According to headman of the area Mr. Sirau Lungkis, during early times people were afraid to walk to the spring as it is located deep in the middle of a forest. But then a Chinese Tycoon discovered the place and started taking sick and impaired people there. Some of these people are since known to have recovered from their illnesses. After getting to know about these potential benefits, Mr. Sirau then discussed the issue with the villagers and they finally agreed to develop the area to the way you see it today.

Headman of the area Mr Sirau Lungkis

Japanese women reckon that clay and mud from these hot springs are good for the skin, especially to do facials. It is believed that women has used mud from hot springs for beauty purposes and for treating skin problems including acne and sensitive skin for centuries. This is thanks to the fact that mud contains a complex mixture of natural minerals, sulfur and salt, which can draw toxins out of the body and boost the immune system and the skin tone. In addition, apart from the benefits of mud, the hot spring water itself is also believed to cure various ailments including stress, nerve pain and blood circulation. Mr. Sirau agrees with these beliefs, adding that the water at the pools is extremely good for people with blood circulation, diabetes and body pain problems”

Local visitor Mr Bong Yew Foh

“My advice is, if you suffer from chronic diseases like I mentioned earlier, you can come to this hot spring. I cant promise anything, but I have tried it and for me it works.

Two gentleman who were having their bath in the hot spring also agree with Mr. Sirau:

“At first, I did not know about the advantages to be had when you come to the hot spring, but I had heard about it from my friend. So many acquaintances who have had a stroke in their life, they recover after coming to this curative place day after day” said local visitor Mr Bong Yew Foh. “There have been many cases” he added; “ and I am witness to that. They come with chronic sicknesses, and stroke patients come here to recover. I know one of them from Matang Jaya whom already had two strokes, He decided to come here everyday and recovered fully after a few months of treatment”.

People enjoying Panchor hot springs

Thanks to these news, a teacher from SMK Siburan, Sarawak, also started visiting this place at least 3 times a week during the school season and every day during the holiday season. At 51 years of age, he is confident the water from this hot spring is the best healing power for individuals who suffer from health problems but also for people who suffer from sleep problems. He has been coming regularly for 5 years and from that day, he stopped having health problems.

Meanwhile a 68 years old Korean tourist, Mr. Chung Koo Hyuk, thought that visiting the hot springs not only gives you good health, but it can also help find friends:

The Bidayuh ladies promoting Panchor Hotsprings

“I come here not only for taking baths, this place has lots of people and here I can build friendships”.

If you are in the Kuching area, do not miss the opportunity to visit Panchor hot springs, for leisure and for proving the public allegations about the curative benefits of spring water.

Panchor hot springs are open daily 7.00 am to 10.00 pm for a nominal fee of 4 Ringgit for adult and 1 Ringgit for children under 12 years of age.

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Sarawak Cultural Village Main Entrance

The Sarawak Cultural Village (SCV), also known locally as Kampung Budaya Sarawak in Bahasa Malaysia, is amongst some of the most popular destinations and attractions in Kuching, Sarawak. Located at the foothill of Mount Santubong, 35 kilometer away from Kuching City, there the indigenous people of Sarawak, the land of the hornbills, are just a 45 minutes drive away, as Sarawak Cultural Village is like a living museum inhabited by many tribes namely Malays, Chinese, Iban, Bidayuh, Orang Ulu, Melanau and Penan.

Let’s talk about Sarawak Cultural Village history. First of all, its owners are the Sarawak Economic Development Corporation, or SEDC. The village formation was inspired by the tourism industry in 1960s. The idea came naturally due to the uniqueness of the house architecture in Sarawak by the indigenous people, as well as thanks to the area’s beautiful, green and fresh natural scenery. A 17 acres area was put aside to build the village. It is believed that the cultural performances in the village garden in the 1970s were the driving engine to the opening of the Sarawak Cultural Village in 1989.

A Malay weaving Songket – a silk fabric

One of the interesting items at the village is the many traditional wood houses with original architecture, one style for each tribe. This list is not extensive: Bidayuh Longhouse, Iban Longhouse, Penan Hut, Orang Ulu Longhouse, Melanau Tall House, Malay House and Chinese Farm House. At those houses you are able to experience the unique lifestyle of these tribes: Malays weaving Songket (a silk or cotton fabric belonging to the brocade family of textiles of Malaysia), Iban cooking Kuih Jala (a traditional bite-sized snack from Sarawak), and the Orang Ulu making their Sape (a traditional lute). Other than this, you also get a chance to see these tribes making their special handicraft, like the Terendak (a conical hat made of Melanau palm-leaf) and the Tambuk basket from the Bidayuh.

Cultural performances

In the Dewan Lagenda, you can attend an authentic cultural performance which lasts about 45 minutes and includes songs, dances and entertainment that revolves around the history of Sarawak. Come early in order not to miss this spectacular show. It usually takes place on mornings at 11.30 am and afternoons at 4 pm, two shows per day.

Bidayuh bamboo bridge

Another attraction at the Sarawak Cultural Village is the amazing Bidayuh bamboo bridge. You do not need to worry about safety, and you will enjoy the journey from start to end. I am the living proof: I am Bidayuh, and used this kind of bridge to cross big rivers. Yet here I am, still alive!

And apart from traditional wooden houses, cultural performances and bamboo bridges, the Sarawak Cultural Village also organizes exciting activities and big yearly events like the Rainforest World Music Festival and the World Harvest Festival. I have attended both of these exciting events, and I guarantee you that they are well worth it!

Nowadays, many of the traditional tribes of Sarawak leave the forest and migrate to the city due to civilization and modernization. This is why I believe the Sarawak Cultural Village is a great project to keep up the culture and the traditional practices, keeping these tribes from extinction. If Kuching is on your traveling plans, don’t miss a chance to visit this village, where you can see Sarawak in one day. I’m pretty sure you will enjoy your visit.

SCV

If you go to Sarawak Cultural Village, do visit the surrounding area too. Sarawak Cultural Village is neighbouring places like a golf club, hotels and a lovely beach, and near there you can engage in activities like jungle trekking, a walk to a waterfall and a superb meal in a seafood restaurant.

Entrance fee to the Sarawak Cultural Village is 60 Malaysian Ringgit for adults and 30 Malaysian Ringgit for kids 6 to 12 years old. Kids below 6 enters for free. To reach Sarawak Cultural Village from Kuching, you can hop on the City to Damai Shuttle, hire a taxi or enquire in a local tour agent.

For more info: http://www.scv.com.my

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Back during my high school time, sometime in 2005, I was told that Mongolians sing perfectly with loud, strong and great voices, and that they can sing with their throat… Everybody urged me never to miss a show if I had the chance to see a Mongolian throat singing performance, whether here or if I was to travel to Mongolia. When I asked why, I was told Mongolian tribes are amazing, unique and different. I then asked why would they sing so good, and this fellow informed me that Mongolians have great voices thanks to the environment of their unique country, covered in mountains and nature.

Epi and his fiddle

With that kind of distinctness, Mongolians sing from the top of mountains and their sounds reach their cattle, mainly composed of lambs or camels. Ever since, I have been curious about this story, about these tribes and their singing. I wanted to know how far this story was true; or was it just a myth? With this in mind, I started to develop a wish to, one day, travel and visit these tribes in their homeland, Mongolia.

Imagine the great surprise when I learned that a Mongolian was going to perform at the Rainforest World Music Festival this year, showcasing this traditional art of Mongolian throat singing. It was to be a great opportunity for me to go and see the performer, as well as a chance and an honour to ask about that little story I had been told.

Epi friendly face

It was on the first day at the festival, after the artists’ press conference where he had been a guest too, that I met Mr. Enkh Jargal Dandarvaanchig, also known as Epi. He was so friendly and talkative, with a constant smile on his face, that I had the impression he was younger than his actual 47 years of age. I felt privileged to be able to talk to him, and his exceptional presence stimulated me to ask about that old story and also about his traditional music. So I did, and the answer was, “the story is only 25% true”…

“In Mongolia, people have lots of animals, so most of the time it is hard for the owner to know which animal belong to him. By singing to them, the animals recognize the owner’s voice”. Epi explained that Mongolian herders sing to their animals since they are puppies, and the animals always relate to the particular songs they hear all the time.

Epi with his fiddle

“Also, Mongolia is a land with lots of mountains and valleys, so Mongolian people sing or talk as loud as they can in order to communicate. Their voices are so loud that can be heard at a 10 to 20 kilometers distance. If you are in Mongolia, do not be surprised to hear people singing in the streets. This is a practice we inherited from generation to generation: in the local language we call the throat singing khoomii”.

So, that was the big secret behind the throat singing; my curiosity was satisfied, but that was not all. Epi shared the story of his life with me. He started singing at the age of 12, when he sang along with his parent and siblings. As he later found out that Mongolian traditional songs were so different from others, he went further and deeper into singing.

This passion prompted him also to playing traditional Mongolian music instruments like the Mongolian Horse Dead Violin, or Fiddle, also known as morin khoor. Epi told me he firmly believes in the importance of learning the traditional music of his country, which he finds fantastic, unique and deeply rooted in nature. This is one of the reasons Epi decided to perform at the Rainforest World Music Festival: for the spirit of the music played throughout the festival, and for the festival relation to nature! In the end of the interview, he wanted to give a message to all the people attending the festival: “Please respect nature, the natural resources, the animals and the Earth”.

Epi’s performance

But let me tell you about Epi’s performance: it was amazing, the theatre was packed with people all patiently waiting for his songs, waiting to hear his magic voice. He is a solo performer, and the moment he started playing his violin and singing, the audience was all of a sudden silent, like kidnapped. I personally watched dazzled, his passion was unbelievable and the performance spectacular.

He is alone on stage, yet if feels like more people are singing: he can sing in different voices, all sounding perfect, and his violin can imitate a horse’s cry. I never expected it to be that good. By the end of the concert, everyone stood up and gave him several rounds of applause. His show really satisfied my initial curiosity. I may not be able to travel to Mongolia to see a great performance, but by covering the Rainforest Water Music Festival, I achieved what I wanted.

I must say thanks to Rainforest Water Music Festival for making me discover Epi. I am aware I cannot really travel to Mongolia this time in my life, yet I had the chance to see an amazing traditional music performance nonetheless. Don’t miss the chance to discover world and tribal music: attend the Rainforest Water Music Festival next year. You can learn about music but also culture and environment. What do you say?

BIO

Epi shows Catohrinner the Mongolian throat singing

Epi was born 1968 in Ulaanbaatar (Mongolia). He grew up in a little village near the russian border. He studied at Music-Conservatorium of Ulaanbaatar from 1990 to 1992 and his teacher was the most known and best Moorin Hoor (Horsefiddle) player in Mongolia.

During his studies, Epi already played in a Moorin Hoor quintet also in the Mongolian television to keep traditional Mongolian music traditions alive. Because of his familiar background, Epi is deeply rooted into the traditional and nomadic way of life that his people live in Mongolia (Epi’s father went into the steppe to raise horses, where Epi also lost his heart). In 1993 Epi went to Germany for the first time. He went there with Altain Orgil. During this first visit Epi and Rüdiger Oppermann met for the first time. Together with Rüdiger Oppermann, Epi played not only in Germany but also in a lot of other European countries and the USA. The last huge concerts brought Epi to the Expo 2002 in madrid, Gran Canaria and Paris… and a lot more…

Besides, Epi is a beloved guest musician and/or singer in different music projects: together with Peter Gantzmann he celebrates the Mongolian Hip-Hop, in a Duo Rainer Granzin he enjoys showing his jazzy side. That way he was able to prove his ability to improvise in a world of modern music.  His interpretation of the Mongolian folk music lets him step between two worlds and wherefore his solo CD is named “Hoirr Öngö” (between two worlds). Epi was a guest musician on different CD studio recordings. Epi the miracle voice from Mongolia is a wanderer between cultures.

Epi talking at the Press Conference

With his play on the Moorin Hoor and the perfection of his Choomie singing, Epis loves to melt his traditional roots with the modern and western cultured music in a brilliant improvisation.

After some tacts and tones Epi offers the smell and the beauty of the Mongolian steppe to the ears and the eyes of the audience. Epi lives in Karlsruhe (Germany) and is travelling a lot to share his passion (music) with the audience of Europe and the whole world.

Anyone who knows the funny, lovely, cheerful way Epi is, knows that he regards also the small things in life and those obviously small things can take great effects on happy living.

Check out his video at http://asianitinerary.com/epi-at-the-rainforest-world-music-festival-2015/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/enkhjargal.dandarvaanchig

Epi bio: http://rwmf.net/performer/enkh-jargal-dandarvaanchig-epi/

Rainforest World Music Festival: http://asianitinerary.com/the-18th-rainforest-world-music-festival-2/

More about Mongolilan traditional groups: http://asianitinerary.com/sedaa-mongolian-funk/

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Atiqah team, the Brunei-team

Extreme sports are usually regarded as dangerous and carry a high-risk which can lead to accident or even death. All over the world, extreme sports are usually dominated by males. This year, at Padawan International 4X4 Off Roaders Extreme Challenge, held in Bengoh Resettlement Scheme (BRS) in Padawan, Sarawak, two women joined the games, making the difference and creating a precedent.

The two extraordinary women present were Dayangku Majalifah Awang Mustafa, a Sarawakian, and Atiqah Abdullah from Brunei Darussalam; these two ‘heroes’ managed to indirectly breaking old traditions and mindset.

Driver Dayang Majalifah started participating in the games 5 years ago; with the security of her golden age of 52, she openly thinks that gender should not be an issue at all: “Don’t always think this is for man only, we ladies can do too”, she stated.

Next woman in extreme sports. lol.

Through my conversation with her, I found out she is an amazing and extreme lady, who cannot be separated from extreme sports, to the point that she has created her own trademark name: Ironlady.

Dayangku, the youngest among three siblings, has ‘conquered’ Borneo by traveling solo across the island from Sarawak to Brunei, Sabah and West Kalimantan. She told me that her most vivid memory is of when she went to Long Lelang in Miri, a place considered as a dead end for the local people.

“We traveled along a dead road that nobody dares to travel through, the trip to reach the camp site lasted from 6.45 am to 11.45pm. It was very tough” said Dayangku.

This active lady, who is also a grandmother, believes that people, especially women, should never underestimate their skills and capabilities. Stating so, she is ready to give her full support to the cause and hopes the gender matter in extreme sports won’t be questioned in the future.

Having a wet time…

Meanwhile, 28 years old Atiqah from Brunei Darussalam says that it was an active influence by friend and a deep interest towards Land Rovers that shaped her life of today. She has been involved in this kind of games since 2008:

“Initially, I started this as a hobby as I like Land Rovers. Then this hobby became more serious, the feeling got deeper, and eventually I got into all kind of competitions, which get more extreme year after year. And here I am!”

It is her great passion in these sports that makes her willingly sacrifice her money and travel miles and miles away from her home to participate in international events. The trip to Kuching alone was a one-day one-night journey!

Atiqah admits this year’s games were tougher than previous editions, as the soil was very wet and slippery. “The target for these kinds of events is to play the games in a fair way, emphasizing on safety. Rules must be observed closely in order to avoid being penalized”.

Atiqah at the wheel

Last December, Atiqah became the champion at the Rainforest Challenge in Negeri Sembilan, Malaysia. It is unbelievable that someone of such a small size like Atiqah can win such tough and extreme games that need extreme preparation and concentration. You won’t believe me if I told you that she drives like a man…

At Padawan International 4X4 Off Roaders Extreme Challenge I learned a lot about females involved in extreme sports. These ladies surely have a strong spirit and their energy incite all daring women. The message is: Don’t be scared to participate in such games if you feel like it, or if you have an interest in the discipline.

Local team of Dayangku

Dayangku and Atiqah have some advice for women out there: Go and grab your dream, crash any obstacle in front of you before you go ahead, prepare your body and your budget. Physical preparation is important but financial planning too, since these games will definitely cost you thousands.

Padawan International 4×4 Off-Roaders Extreme Challenge

May 22, 2015 – May 24, 2015

Sixty teams including those from Indonesia, Singapore, Thailand, Philippines, Sabah, Peninsular Malaysia and the Royal Brunei 4X4 team participated in the Padawan International 4X4 Off-Roaders Extreme Challenge 2015.

The event was held at a temporary track at the Bengoh Resettlement Scheme (BRS), Borneo Highlands Road, about 45 kilometres from Kuching.

Some of the activities included river wading, winching, hill climbing, mud slide driving, downhill maneuvering and rock climbing as well as testing the true skills of driving. See more on http://sarawaktourism.com/event/padawan-international-4×4-off-roaders-extreme-challenge/

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The Sape (in Kenyah dialect means ‘scratching’) is a traditional plucked lute chordophone family of  instruments used by many of the Orang Ulu (Kayan, Kenyah, Kelabit), or ‘upriver people’, who live in the longhouses that line the rivers of Central Borneo and Kalimantan. Sape originated from the Long Nawang, Kabupaten Bulungan at the border of Sarawak, Malaysia, and East Kalimantan, Indonesia.

Ancient use of Sape

The story wants the idea of the Sape to come through a dream of a farmer who fell asleep in the hut of his paddy field after returning from seeking a witch-doctor to cure his wife’s sickness. In his dream, the farmer was directed to look for Adau wood, from the trees that the Hill Myna birds used to perch. The shape of Sape appeared in his dream and whenever the Sape was played, he dreamt the spirit would come and cure his wife’s sickness.

Sapes are carved from a single bole of selected fine grain wood, with many modern instruments reaching over a metre in length. Initially, the Sape was a fairly limited instrument with no design. It had two strings and only three frets (the three frets only appearing around the second decade of the 19th Century). Its use was restricted to a form of ritualistic music to induce trance. Still today, the Orang Ulu people believe that when there is any death in the longhouse, the Sape should not be played since it would cause the musician to become deaf, a condition only possible to cure with the sound of gongs called Tawak.

Lan E Tuyang and his Sape

In the last century, as time passed the Sape gradually became a social instrument to accompany dances or as a form of entertainment. Today, three, four or five-string instruments are used, with a range of more than three octaves. Most of them are still hand-made.

Technically, the Sape is a relatively simple instrument, with one string carrying the melody and the accompanying strings as rhythmic drones. In practice, the music is quite complex, with many ornamentations and thematic variations. There are two common modes, one for the men’s longhouse dance and the other for the woman’s longhouse dance. There also is a third rarely used mode. Sape music is usually inspired by dreams and there are over 35 traditional pieces with many variations. The overall repertoire is slowly increasing.

TYPES OF SAPE

There are two types of Sape:

The Sape Bali is used to cure sickness by the witch-doctor (Bali Dayong); during the ceremony, the player sits on the floor and later stands up to drive away the evil spirits (Udo).

Modern electric Sape

The Sape Kanjet is used to accompany dances and it is double the size of the Sape Bali. These were first produced when the British first came to Sarawak and brought along the telephone cables, which were the first to be used as modern Sape’s strings.

Sapes are still being made in Borneo, and modern innovations like electric Sapes are common.

Lan E Tuyang is the head of traditional ethnic group Orang Ulu-Kenyah (the Orang Ulu) trio band performing exotic native Kenyah tunes, comprising two Sapes, a percussionist and a warrior dancer. To read more about them, go to http://asianitinerary.com/lan-e-tuyang-orang-ulu-music-from-borneo/

To enjoy the sape played live, do not miss the yearly Rainforest World Music Festival in Kuching, Borneo (www.rwmf.net)

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Often, when we speak about Ironman the first thing that comes to our mind is the well-known blockbuster movie starring Robert Downey Junior. But listen carefully: the Ironman that I wants to celebrate here has nothing to do with Robert Downey or any cartoons character. It is the Sarawak Ironman!

The event banner

First introduced in 2006, Sarawak Ironman is one of the highlight events of the World Harvest Festival, or WHF, together with Beauty Peagant Contest and Miss Cultural Harvest Festival. Ironman Sarawak is a competition held to test skills, strength and agility as well as mental and physical endurance, a contest generally open to men aged 18 and above.

According to the Sarawak Ironman’s Chief Coordinator, Ibrahim Abdullah, the main purpose of the competition is to promote local culture to outsiders. Apart from being a physical competition, the contest is perceived as unique thanks to activities that are towards traditional lifestyle.

Running while carrying a weight

“The Ironman competition idea came about while we organized the World Harvest Festival; most of the festival activities are gardening, cutting and rafting” – stated Ibrahim, adding that the ideas behind traditional activities were turned into categories of the Ironman Competition: jungle trekking, lifting and carrying rice sacks weighing of 50 kilograms, blowpipe, tire flipping, chopping wood, coconut peeling and rafting.

Two of the earliest participants to the competition since its inception said they became interested in Ironman because it is challenging and also because they like to mingle and learn different techniques with other participants. “Because it is one of the most challenging events”, said 43 years old Khairuddin Amir Hamzah. “This competition is a good event for us to mingle around, plus we have the chance to test our strength. We even can learn other technique from each other”, admitted 45 years old Amirhanafi Ali.

One of the disciplines at Sarawak Ironman

Aminzani Zainudin, one of the active participants in Ironman, stated that “usually, preparation is the most important agenda of any game”. He normally starts training 2 month before the competition. Ricky Poh, a policeman at his first attempt in the competition, said that the event feels challenging and tough to him. He advised new participants to get ready to a 2 to 3 months intensive training, and to get any possible advise from senior participants with previous experience.

After winning Sarawak Ironman three times and failing to get any place last year, 41 years old Jury Amrullah Ibrahim was crowned the winner of this year competition. “I am confident that consistent training is the secret of my success. The more you train, the better result in the end.”

The podium

This competition is indeed very significant to society and should be continued and maintained for the sake of future generations. A Malay proverb says “tak basah dek hujan, tak lekang dek panas”, meaning “cultural heritage needs to be preserved in order to remain relevant and remembered by the public”.Do you feel up to the task? Don’t miss the opportunity to test your stamina in next year’s Sarawak Ironman’s.

The World Harvest Festival usually falls in the month of May and consists of a wide range activities like Ethnic Kitchen Master Chef. Also, you will also get the chance to see the biggest live museum in Borneo.

For more info, click on http://www.whf.com.my/new/iron_man_2013.php

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Packaged Kek Lapis

While I am normally not a sweet/dessert type of guy, preferring the savoury section of food instead, I have always been intrigued by the traditional Kek Lapis Sarawak – or Sarawak Layer Cake. I first discovered Sarawakian Layer Cakes during a tour of Kuching town, when our guide suggested a stop at one of the various factory/retail shop existing in town, Dayang Salhah. I immediately thought, here we go, the obligatory tourist trap. But I had to redeem myself; inside the store, we were greeted by friendly staff who showed us all the different Sarawak layer cakes that they made. There were several chillers where vividly colourful layer cakes were stacked up and ready to go. They then invited us to try strips and pieces of these delicacies, and with one bite I could tell that these were no ordinary cakes: they were tasty, moist and buttery and with just the right amount of sweetness, plus you could tell they had added spices to give special aroma to each of the cakes.

tasting the delicacies

I was informed that Dayang Salhah began its operations in 1997 as a small family business, and that today it has evolved into the most famous and established manufacturer of Kek Lapis Sarawak. Check them out on http://keklapisdayangsalhah.net , you can even buy online if you live in Malaysia. I was deeply taken by Kek Lapis, and promised myself to get to know more about these traditional handcrafted cakes.

My research started with a bit of history of Kek Lapis, which seems to have been originally baked in the neighbouring Indonesia, and introduced to the people of Sarawak later, though there is also a theory that modern Sarawakian layered cakes were introduced to the people of Sarawak from innovation inspired by Western cake-making in early 1980s, using different ingredients and baking methods and giving the Sarawak version a totally unique look, crafted intricate designs and original flavours. This new generation of eye-catchingly bright layers cake is called Kek Lapis Qalas Qalas and they can be divided into two categories: ordinary layered cakes and cakes with patterns, motifs and shapes. As a rule, all Kek Lapis must have at least two colours!

yellow layers

Kek Lapis are usually baked for religious or cultural celebrations and special occasions, with Malaysian people serving them during open houses on festival days: Aidilfitri, Hari Raya, Lunar New Year, Chinese New Year, Christmas, Deepavali, birthdays and weddings.

During my following few more days in Kuching, I had the chance to see layers cakes everywhere: inside shopping malls, at bakery and pop-up stalls, at Kek Lapis specialized cute little shops and even from vendors along the riverside galleried area, an infinite choice of flavoured and rainbow-coloured delicacies from different producers and brands, there to tease your taste buds. Kek Lapis prices varies from RM10 to RM30 depending on ingredients and size of the cakes; a good deal for a local delicacy, I thought.

Packaged Kek Lapis

My curiosity took me even further, and at Maria Kek Lapis, a cute shop in one of the Kuching alleys, at 4 Jalan Bishop Gate, I asked to tell me the ‘secret’ behind these delicacies. No secret, said Maria, and prompted me to follow her into the hot and tiny kitchen where it all happens.

The recipe calls for butter, eggs, sugar, flour, milk and colouring and flavouring ingredients like pandan, chocolate, peppermint, strawberry, mango or orange, as well as products like Horlicks and Milo. Making Kek Lapis is indeed an extremely tedious job, one that can only be rewarded by the beauty of the final creation.

A layer cake usually has between 10 and 20 parallel layers of cakes, with Sarawak version using 5 layers at the bottom, a fancy design in the middle and another 5 layers at the top. This middle fancy section is achieved by creating strips of different colours cut into square or triangular shapes using a utility knife: a very skilled job!

A small amount of batter is then evenly spread in between each layer, and a 5 minutes baking time is given to the tray after each layer has been composed. Once this is done, the cake is tamped down flat with a special tool before the baker creates the next layer, and so on. Considering the number of layers at 5 minutes baking time per layer plus preparation time, you can easily work out that it takes between an hour work and two to make one single cake happen!

Kek Lapis tastings

Kek Lapis use no leavening agent and must be cooked from the top – like if you were grilling each layer; if you baked a layers cake in a conventional oven way you would end up with a dry and overcooked cake. To give Kek Lapis the high and firm texture, the layers are ‘glued’ together using jam or condensed milk, the latter usually making the cake hold longer. Special, more detailed cakes require special moulds. After baking the last layer, the cake must be cooled at room temperature before being exposed in the chiller.

Well, chapeau to the Kek Lapis makers; such a laborious and time-consuming process fully deserved my investment into different cakes! And they are not just cakes, they are pieces of art. It is still hard for me to grasp that something that takes so long to prepare and bake can be devoured in such a small amount of time!

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The resort grounds

Borneo Highlands is a resort located in Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo, in the foothills of the Kuching province; it lays 60 km from town, an easy one hour drive. Since Kuching is a very simple province, full of multicultural ethnics and historical buildings, you will hear lots of dialects and languages on the way to this little heaven, as well as enjoying beautiful panoramas.

Borneo Highlands is the perfect hideaway for those seeking tranquility and peace from work and from the hustle and bustle of urban life. The resort is a kind of retreat destination as it offers more than just amusing scenery.

National Border

Among the attractions are a golf area, a jungle spa, nature, local food, herbal teas, an orchid’s garden, and freshwater from the waterfall. Yet, the most amazing place in Borneo Highlands is at the border between Malaysia and Kalimantan, Indonesia, nestled between the oldest and world’s second-largest tropical rainforest.

As Borneo Highlands Resort was created with emphasis to blend with nature, it naturally offers boundless outdoors activities all year round. One of these activities is the Padawan Nature Challenge which is jointly organized by Padawan Municipal Council and Borneo Highlands Resort.  It is a cycling and trekking adventure with competition amateurs categories, a challenge that gives the opportunity for adventurous nature lovers to be close to Mother Nature while experiencing the environmental and adventure tourism aspects of Padawan and of Borneo Highlands Resort.

Our writer Cato with a friend

Well, as for me, a day trip to Borneo Highlands is so exciting and meaningful that I always leave with a craving for more adventure there. On that one day trip, I managed to experience the real nature, to feel the fresh air, to taste botanical tea and delicious vegetarian food, as well as to visit Malaysia’s national borders.

So, if it is back to nature, it is back to Borneo Highlands Resort.

For information and bookings, visit Borneo Highlands Resort website at http://www.borneohighlands.com.my

BOOK A ROOM NOW AT BORNEO HIGHLANDS THROUGH THIS LINK !

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All’entrata dell sorgenti calde di Annah Rais con la mia cicerona Miss Karum

Trovandomi recentemente in un tour della longhouse di Annah Rais, colsi l’occasione per visitare le vicine sorgenti calde di Annah Rais. Mi svegliai riposato dopo la mia seconda notte all’homestay di Karum Bidayuh. La colazione mi aspettava a tavola, la solita dose di frittata di due uova e riso, ed un’energizzante tazza di caffè del Sarawak, il tutto gentilmente preparato dal nostro anfitrione Miss Karum la quale, mentre noi ci cibavamo, si preparava per accompagnarci alle sorgenti calde.

Il posto era completamente vuoto quando arrivammo all’entrata, alle 8 del mattino, l’orario perfetto per arrivarci. Mi sentii compiaciuto della decisione presa il giorno prima di svegliarmi presto e partire altrettanto presto. Gente del posto mi aveva accennato che si può avere il posto tutto per sé durante la settimana quando ben pocha gente visita le sorgenti, ma pur essendo domenica, a quell’ora potevo considerarmi l’unico visitatore. Il posto era completamente vuoto, la caffetteria situata al lato della biglietteria era ancora chiusa (anche se sembrava non attiva da tempo) e l’unica persona presente era un giardiniere impegnato a tagliare l’erba e a potare le numerose piante dei curati giardini ai due lati del sentiero che in 5 minuti porta dall’ingresso alle sorgenti. a quell’ora, sembrava non fosse stata attiva da tempo.

la piattaforma al lato della sorgente principale

Arrivati all’altipiano che sovrasta il fiume sottostante, constatammo che l’acqua ce scorreva lenta era molto pulita e cristallina. Una scala di cemento porta giù al torrente, e i visitatori devono guadare le sue fresche acque per raggiungere la sorgente calda situata sull’altra sponda, azione che può risultare difficile dal momento che le correnti a volte sono veloci. È necessario avere un passo sicuro al fine di non cedere alle acque ed alle pietre scivolose. Le doccie e spogliatoi al coperto sono praticamente incustoditi e un po’ malandati; consiglio di utilizzare le docce situate all’aperto quando avete bisogno di una sciaquata.

Attraversai con attenzione l’acqua fredda che mi arrivava al ginocchio e raggiunsi una piscina artificiale sul lato opposto, completa di una piattaforma di legno che funge da zona prendisole. Il tempo era stupendo, mi misi il costume da bagno mentre osservavo preoccupato dove, da un paio di punti nella profondità delle acque della sorgente, piccoli fori rilasciavano bolle d’aria bollente.

Ammollo nell’acqua bollente

Finalmente mi decisi ad immergermi nella tonificante acqua calda, che calcolai essere a circa 40 gradi, e dopo pochi minuti il mio corpo si rilassò: mi sentivo come in un altro mondo. Chiusi gli occhi e mi concentrai a fondo per sopportare il leggero disagio provocato dall’acqua calda. La natura intorno a me era quieta e si sentivano solo i grilli e l’acqua del fiume che lentamente gorgogliava. Mi rilassai ulteriormente, apprezzando la tonificante acqua di sorgente che mi rinfrescava gli stanchi muscoli delle gambe. Aprii gli occhi di nuovo: un’enorme farfalla volava in cerchio attorno alla mia testa, mostrandomi le sue ali nere e vellutate completate da verdi fantasie. Se ne andò solo per lasciare spazio ad una coppia di libellule rosse che si fermarono in fase di stallo proprio davanti alla mia faccia, immobili a parte il battere veloce delle loro ali. I dintorni erano così belli e verdi che mi sono sentito veramente a contatto con la natura.

Questa era troppo calda per immergersi

Dopo dieci minuti d’immersione, uscii dalla sorgente calda per entrare nelle fresche acque del fiume sottostante; il mio corpo accolse con piacere questa iniziativa: mi sentivo sano e rinfrescato, rivitalizzato. Dopo altri due di questi cambi acqua calda/acqua fredda, mi portai alla piattaforma di legno per fare qualche round di saluto al sole. Lo yoga è un piacere in un ambiente così tranquillo.

Alla vista di nuovi visitatori che arrivavano al sito, decisi di dirigermi verso la piccola sorgete più a valle, situata proprio nel bel mezzo del fiume e delimitata da pietre. L’acqua non era calda abbastanza per bollire un uovo, ma di certo abbastanza calda per bruciare la pelle, cosi abbiamo deciso di tornare alla zona spogliatoi. Laggiù c’erano già un sacco di persone ammollo nella sorgente, e questo confermò che arrivare presto è stata una buona idea!

FATTI

cartello con avvertenze

Le piscine attorno alle sorgenti sono state costruite dalla comunità locale e sono al servizio dei visitatori. Se si vuole fare un pic-nic nei dintroni bisogna portarsi il cibo da casa visto che il piú vicino negozio di alimentari è abbastanza lontano. L’addetto alla biglietteria all’ingresso vende bibite.

Alle sorgenti calde di Annah Rais non forniscono nessuna informazione sulla temperatura dell’acqua, sui tempi di balneazione consigliati e sui benefici delle acque calde. Vi è invece una scheda che ti dice che si puo nuotare ma a proprio rischio e pericolo. È perciò necessario verificare la temperatura dell’acqua prima di immergercisi, e sapere che le sessioni di immersione possono durare un massimo di 10 minuti ciascuna, alternandole con un breve tuffo nelle acque fresche del fiume, o con una doccia fredda. Prima di andarsene dalle sorgenti calde di Annah Rais, si prega di tenere il posto pulito gettando i rifiuti nei cassonetti forniti.

Situate nel distretto di Padawan, le sorgenti calde di Annah Rais sono ad un 1 ora di macchina dalla città di Kuching lungo la strada panoramica per il Borneo Highlands Resort, e a soli 3 km dal villaggio di Annah Rais, che le rende facilmente raggiungibili a piedi o in bicicletta. Il biglietto d’ingresso è di RM 5 a persona.

Asian Itinerary ha soggiornato al Karum Bidayuh Homestay. Per informazioni e prenotazioni, contattare la signorina Karum o Jenny a Karum Bidayuh Homestay, tel. (+60) 0168981675, e-mail yeominghua@yahoo.com o t_weiyu86@hotmail.com, o consultare il loro sito web www.longhouseinborneo.com

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