Fort Margherita

The enchanting tale behind Fort Margherita in Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo, unveils a story of love and protection, often overshadowed by the grandeur of more famous landmarks like the Taj Mahal. While many are familiar with the romantic narrative of the Taj Mahal‘s creation, Fort Margherita’s origin story remains relatively obscure, nestled within the annals of Sarawak‘s rich history.

Constructed in 1879 by Sir Charles Brooke, the second Rajah of Sarawak, Fort Margherita stands as a testament to a love as enduring as its sturdy walls. Sir Charles built this fortress for his beloved wife, Margherita Alice Lili de Windt, a French noblewoman, as a symbol of his deep affection.

Designed in the likeness of an English castle, the fort’s primary purpose was to safeguard the city of Kuching from marauding pirates, although it never had to engage in battle. Over time, Fort Margherita underwent several transformations, serving as a police museum from 1971 before eventually being entrusted to the Sarawak Government as a tourist attraction.

The architecture of Fort Margherita is reminiscent of the majestic castles of old, featuring a three-story layout constructed from plastered stone and adorned with wooden floors and spiral staircases. Iron mastheads grace each corner, adding to its imposing silhouette.

Throughout its storied past, Fort Margherita has played various roles, from a base for Sarawak Rangers to a strategic outpost for the Japanese army during World War II. Recognising its historical significance, the National Heritage Department embarked on a conservation project to preserve this architectural gem, investing 2.3 million Malaysian Ringgit over two years.

Today, Fort Margherita, now known as the Brooke Gallery, stands as a testament to the legacy of the Brooke Dynasty, housing artifacts and relics that chronicle the reign of the White Rajahs and their impact on Sarawak. The fortress has witnessed the changing tides of history, its flagpole proudly bearing the flags of Sarawak, Japan and Britain over the years.

Perched atop a hill near the State Legislative Assembly Complex and overlooking the Sarawak River, Fort Margherita remains a steadfast reminder of Sarawak‘s colonial past. Visitors to Kuching are urged not to miss the opportunity to traverse the passageways of this historic landmark, which offers a glimpse into a bygone era.

Accessible by road or a leisurely river cruise, Fort Margherita beckons travellers to explore its corridors and immerse themselves in the rich tapestry of Sarawak‘s history. Whether admiring its architectural splendour or marvelling at its panoramic views, a visit to Fort Margherita promises an unforgettable journey through time.

For those planning a trip to Kuching, a visit to Fort Margherita is a must, offering not only a glimpse into the region’s past but also an opportunity to experience its enduring charm firsthand. As you wander through its halls, you’ll discover a love story etched in stone and a legacy that continues to captivate hearts around the world.

Opening Hours:

Monday – Friday: 9am–4.45pm

Saturday, Sunday and Public Holidays: 10am-4pm

Admission:

Malaysian: RM 10

Non-Malaysian: RM 20

Children (under 7): Free

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One of my housemates, whom I rented with last year, mentioned that he did his internship at the Ranee Museum in Kuching, Sarawak, Borneo Malaysia. His statement prompted me to inquire further, though my knowledge was limited; to my understanding, the Old Court House presently comprises only two remarkable restaurants and a bistro. However, he merely chuckled, indicating that there’s more to it than meets the eye.

So here I am, embarking on the journey of exploring another heritage site in Sarawak. Yet, despite his revelation, I didn’t take any action. I continued to ponder over it until my office informed me about a Brooke Tour they had organised for us. Being part of the tourism industry, I thought, “Okay, let’s do it.” I believed it would be more enjoyable to go as a group rather than venturing alone.

As scheduled, we convened at the Old Court House – Ranee Museum right after lunch. An evening tour seemed ideal as we could all return home afterward, creating a more relaxed and laid-back atmosphere.

Charles Brooke, Second Rajah of Sarawak

Similar to the Brooke Gallery, the Ranee Museum is affiliated with the Brooke Trust. If you plan to visit the Brooke Gallery, make sure to stop by the Ranee Museum first. Why? Because you wouldn’t want to miss witnessing the sunset at The Fort Margherita; it’s truly captivating and worth your time.

Now, what about the Ranee Museum? As the name suggests, the museum commemorates the life of Ranee herself, Margaret Alice Lili De Windt, the wife of the Second Rajah of Sarawak, Charles Brooke. Despite being born in France and raised in the UK during a much more modern era, she possessed a fervent desire to learn about and explore different cultures and places. At the tender age of 19, she embarked on a journey across the ocean to begin her married life.

A guide with visitors at The Ranee Museum

During her time in Sarawak, she immersed herself in the local community, learning about various customs, cultures, and beliefs. As a result, she was admired for her grace, humility, and friendliness towards the locals. The museum showcases a photograph of her alongside prominent Sarawakian women such as Dayang Lehut, Dayang Sahada, Mrs. Maxwell, and other attendants.

According to the museum curator, she greatly valued local customs, evident in her collection, which includes exquisite ‘Songket and Keringkam’ embroidery by the Sarawak Malay community.

‘Songket and Keringkam’ embroidery

Songket is a traditional woven fabric, while Keringkam is a type of Malay embroidery featuring gold or silver threads, typically worn as a headscarf by women. It’s said that she cherished this attire and continued to wear it long after leaving Sarawak. This sentiment is echoed in the personal possessions exhibited at the museum, including heritage textiles, paintings, crafts, and literature spanning 140 years.

Words alone cannot fully encapsulate her profound love for this nation. Therefore, I highly recommend a visit to the Ranee Museum to delve deeper into her remarkable journey. Similar to The Fort, there’s an admission fee, but if you opt for the full tour (both Brooke Gallery and Ranee Museum), you’ll enjoy a discounted price.

Opening Hours:

Monday – Sunday & Public Holidays: 9:00 am – 4:45 pm

WWW: https://sarawaktourism.com/attraction/ranee-museum

Admission Fee

Malaysian:

• Adult – RM10
• Child (7-12 yrs) – RM5

Non – Malaysian:

• Adult – RM20
• Child (7-12) -RM10

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Personally, I appreciate traditions in an almost exaggerated way. The phrases, the actions, the events; in one word, a culture that characterises the roots of a people and which, in oral or written form, is handed down from generation to generation. I think it is important to know where we come from and to whom or to what we owe for being who we are today.

Asian Itinerary author with Batuan Ethnic Fusion

Sure enough, the world is shrinking, peoples are mingling with each other generating new cultures. These new cultures are the natural result of a mix of original cultures, and we are rapidly moving towards a world in which the new password is globalisation. This is a nice word, an end in itself, were it not for the fact that the meaning attributed to it almost universally does not appear as exclusive. On the contrary, it tends to exclude individual cultures to the advantage of a “non-culture” that must include everyone but that does not represent anyone.

We can clearly see this in the controversies surrounding the definition of World Music. This term was coined by the American ethnomusicologist Robert Edward “Bob” Brown to describe music influenced by traditional cultures. World Music has nowadays taken on an almost derogatory meaning for the use of it by the music industry and record labels of the Western world in the 1980s to describe non-English recordings. Multi-instrumentalist and music producer Brian Clark believes that this term classifies “most non-Western music into an outcast group destined to the fringes of music festivals and lonely corner music shops”.

Sape Workshop

Asia is the cradle of ancient civilisations, and in the specific case here in Sarawak, progress in its various forms cannot ignore the past. Today the Dayak people are called Iban, and though they have obviously modernised, they still adopt the principles of a past to which they have always been related. This can be seen in those Iban who still live by choice in the Longhouses, a kind of wooden one-storey “condominiums” often built on stilts. These longhouses give shelter to several families and were originally created with the aim of keeping groups united so to defend oneself from the frequent incursions of other tribes. It can also be seen in those original tattoos that almost every local has, and that reflect symbols of bygone times. Last but not least, it can definitely be seen in the evolution of local music which, while moving forward, always maintains a certain attention to what is produced by its fathers.

This is something we noticed straight away at the Rainforest World Music Festival, right from the usual meetings with the artists, where on more than one occasion the thin and not so invisible thread that inextricably binds various generations was remarked.

Pinanak Sentah

Pinanak Sentah are six kids with clean faces and reading glasses, something that denounces a lot of time spent on books. They are Malaysians, from Siburan, less than 50km from Kuching, and they are somehow making their musical dream come true. They are a family: brothers and cousins accompanied by their father/uncle, who is also a musician, but who is not active part of the group. Well, not physically at least. But in terms of idea, he is the inspirer model for his children and grandchildren that range from the 15 years of drummer Emmanuel to the 26 years of guitarist Akinson and keyboardist Rick. They play a mix of tribal and modern music accompanied by both traditional and modern instruments. They are able to switch, with the ease of consummate musicians, from a Sape to a bass and an electric guitar, and from wooden xylophones to drums.

We chatted with them off the stage, where they sported a certain confidence. The smile that lit up on their faces was not ostentatious or flaunted; it was genuine, spontaneous and typical of that age in which one looks at the world with confidence, aware that the world is in their hands.

Pinanak Sentah drummer

Then you see them on stage and, assuming there is still room for a transformation, this  transformation takes place there. Emmanuel skilfully strikes his instrument by sliding his sticks on the drums with the exuberance of his 15 years of age; Natalina, 17, who seemed almost intimidated by our questions during the press meeting, replaces her top-of-the-class student glasses with colourful beaded hair clips, immerses herself in a private world of her own, and produces harmonic sounds from her jatung utang, a kind of wooden xylophone, focusing seriously only on her instrument. She smiles little on stage: perhaps the large audience that listens in religious silence intimidates her. In the end, she is still little more than a child; nevertheless, she does not show it and she manages to deliver a feeling of mastery for each instrument that she plays. And only when at the end of each piece the silence is interrupted by thunderous applause, she lets herself go to a satisfied, not so imperceptible smile. What a beauty.

Natalina in a workshop

Then there is 20 years old Ethania, a little secluded in the background. She plays the bass with delicacy, elegance and confidence. In front of her stand the two front-men, who together represent the ideological synthesis of the group: Ethaniel, 22 years old, a neat haircut, traditional clothing and a Sape in his arms, instrument that he masters without hesitation; and the aforementioned Akinson on the electric guitar: a red ribbon in his hair and an attitude that is somewhat reminiscent of Jimi Hendrix. Pinanak Sentah are there, on stage, with their father/uncle who, after passing the baton of tradition to them, observes from behind the scenes this Malaysian musical fable that continues its path towards a future that does not give space to amnesia on the past.

These are second generations: groups that grew up with the tribal music of their fathers in the ears, together with rock, jazz and pop.

Batuan Ethnic Fusion

Wayan Balawan is a Balinese musician on the threshold of his fifties, and he is considered one of the fastest guitarists in World Music, to the point of being nicknamed the “guitarist with the magic finger” in Indonesian musical circles. Balawan grew up listening to rock music, and he talks to me about his passion for the Beatles and the Deep Purple, something we share. He also tells me how he went from gamelan – a kind of traditional Indonesian orchestra – through rock to jazz, which he studied at the Australian Institute of Music in Sidney. Balawan has always maintained a connection with the music of his fathers through the instruments his band employ.

At the Rainforest World Music Festival, Balawan played with the line-up he founded on his return from Australia, the Batuan Ethnic Fusion, which combine the Balinese style of gamelan with a form of fusion jazz. On stage, they gave life to a brilliant and exciting show.

Sape Workshop

These are just two of several examples of generational transitions that we witnessed during the festival. The mentality and the firm will of not wanting to see the extinction of the ancient arts of the folk people starts to spread also on an educational level in Sarawak. Persatuan Anak Seni Sape Kuching is an NGO that caters to children, teaching them how to play the Sape, the most traditional of traditional instruments, and after less than a year of activity they have already reached thirty registrations. This clearly suggests that tribal music will have its own continuity and future. And the best support we can give them is to attend to World Music festivals! Thanks again to Rainforest World Music Festival for the amazing experience. Not to be missed.

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Bukit Batu Selabat is mostly famous for its hill and for its waterfall. Giant boulders are scattered all around the hills. Up there you can enjoy views of the whole city: Kuching. This is an amazing sight to witness at night when the city is covered in lights. The best recommendation is to hike and spend a night there camping. 

Remember to take with you all your camping gear and gadgets as well as good buddies if you need companions. Hiking in the evening ensures you will be witness of a majestic sunset. After setting up your tent, have a drink, sit on a rock, and take a couple of pictures as a memoir. Trust me, you will be happy to have a memory for your future storytelling. 

Do it at night!

Before nightfall, make sure you get food prepared for the night, as the skylights there will definitely wow you. Let’s pray for dry weather, of course, and remember to bring plenty of water with you as there are no water reserves at the top. In the morning, you should wake up early if you wish to experience a great sunrise.

And if you do not fancy camping out, do not worry, most people only come for a day trip. You can chose to hike in the morning, afternoon or even in the evening. A part from fit junkies, Bukit Batu Selabat is one of the favourite of those who want to challenge themselves to slim down.

The waterfall

Bukit Batu Selabat Arong Serait Waterfall

Arong Serait Waterfall is nature at its best, greatly organised and created by Mother Earth. You will feel you are in a unique place, one that is beyond your imagination. The flow of water is so nice, and the stones are arranged in a way that it seems like planned by an architect. Vegetation around the waterfall is so lush, which makes it the perfect place for kids too. 

If you chose to go there in the night and you decide to soak yourself at the waterfall, you won’t regret it. Having cold water in nature is absolutely best for mental and physical clearance.

There are actually two tiered waterfall in the area, both are amazing and at both of them you can spend the night camping. Since the area is near a source of fresh water, you don’t have to worry about water supplies. All you have to do is set your tent, make a campfire and do proper camping cooking with all the gear you carry with you.

I hiked in the day and spent my time at the waterfall, but all options are ok and worth your trip. My only advice is to bring enough supplies for the night and also some mosquito repellent. Good news for nature lovers: you will encounter pitcher plants, unique mushrooms, and frogs, as well as abundant flora and fauna.

Hiking and camping

It takes about 1-hour hiking from the checkpoint to reach both Bukit Batu Selabat and Arong Serait Waterfall – it’s a 2.5-kilometres trail. Hiking time depends pretty much on individual stamina. Look at this video for inspiration. The checkpoint itself is located at Kampung Selabat, Muara Tebas, not far from the Malaysia Maritime Enforcement Agency, APNM, and it is about 17 kilometres from Kuching city. The hike between the waterfall and the top of the hill should last 30 to 60 minutes. As for the fee, you have to pay RM10 for either hill or waterfall, and if you visit both the ticket is then RM15. Parking there costs RM5 per car.

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The Rainforest World Music Festival (often abbreviated as RWMF) is an annual three-day music festival celebrating the diversity of world music, held in Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia, with daytime music workshops, cultural displays, craft displays, food stalls, and main-stage evening concerts.

The Rainforest World Music Festival (RWMF) is back and promises to be better than ever. Rainforest World Music Festival celebrates its 25th anniversary this year and there is no better way to celebrate the momentous occasion by hosting a hybrid event for the first time since the beginning of the music festival in 1998. This year’s festival – themed “Legendary Rainforest Celebration” – will be held from 17-19 June 2022. The physical concert is set to take place at the Sarawak Cultural Village while viewers can also livestream it from their homes via an online viewing platform.

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The 20th edition of the Rainforest World Music Festival 2017 will feature a Wellness Programme in the form of workshop sessions during the three-day weekend festival.

Capoeira

The programme features activities like the “Capoeira” a Brazilian martial arts-dance, traditional yoga as well as unique meditation techniques. With a full schedule covering every base of wellness, the programme is expected to be a sensational crowd puller. Capoeira is a 16th century martial arts was created by West African slaves in Brazil. Local practitioner, Malcom Wu, the founder of Movimento Simples de Capoeira, Sarawak (MSDCS) will showcase this traditional art during the festival.

“It’s not just about combat or self-defence but also the training of physical and mental attributes such as body balance, coordination, strength, flexibility, agility, concentration, rhythm, timing and even self-confidence, respect, consideration for others, teamwork and discipline. “All these traits can be incorporated into everyday life usage for self-improvement,” expressed Malcom in one of the interviews.

Capoeira is just one of the martial arts-based wellness session, including a BODYCOMBAT™ session by Level Up Fitness which adopts moves from Karate, Taekwondo, Boxing, Muay Thai and Kung Fu and creates a non-contact workout regimen with enthusiastic and stress-relieving punches and kicks.

Taichi at Rainforest World Music Festival 2018

Sarawak Shenlong TAI-CHI CHUAN Society’s instructor, Lai Cho Sin, will also hold a Tai Chi session that features the use of ancient Chinese martial art, with its flowing water like movements, to let go of worries and reduce stress. In a more traditional twist, the Rumpun Silat Sarawak will be holding a Silat Moves session, teaching the widely popular and internationally recognised Malay art of self-defence, so well-known it was featured on the National Geographic channel’s Fight Masters series.

In a mix of martial arts and Yoga, the Yoga Warrior session teaches Budokon Yoga, a hybrid exercise that produces fluid movements which encourages flexibility and strength by focusing on the transition from posture to posture rather than the holding of postures. The Yoga Warrior session will be led by Daniel Geller from the Budokon University of Mixed Movement Arts.

Yoga at Rainforest World Music Festival 2018

Alvin Heng, a teacher and practitioner of Vinyasa Yoga for a decade, will also  be holding a session that teach participants to synchronize breathing with a continuous movement of postures, a practice that increases overall balance, flexibility and strength. Unlike Budokon Yoga, Vinyasa teaches a variety of Yoga with far less martial art influence.

Another practitioner, Alice Chieng will introduce two distinct yoga sessions called Hatha Yoga and Yin Yoga, which uses the physical balance between masculine and feminine movements to stabilize the internal masculine and feminine energy in participants, encouraging physical and mental steadiness.

Wong Ah Shui, a practitioner of Vipassana meditation and a Dharma worker at the Kuching Buddhist Society (KBS), will present a Vipassana session. Wong practiced under decades of tutelage from his master, Ven. Sujivo, the foremost Malaysian monk teaching the Mahasi method of Vipassana meditation. The art of meditation is as old as time and is proven to improve mental and emotional health, with additional benefits to cardiovascular health as well as improving other physical conditions that are affected by stress.

Zumba at Rainforest World Music Festival 2018

Dr. Lennie Soo, the Vice President of the Federation of Complementary and Natural Medical Associations, Malaysia with a background in clinical hypnotherapy, will also feature two sessions on unique, but no less traditional, meditation techniques. Dr. Soo’s Vibration Meditation session uses gong hypnotic healing techniques, with calming vibrations that calm the mind, reduce stress and improve concentration. Using a traditional Indian meditation technique, Homa Therapy, Dr. Soo will also be using flames to remove toxic conditions in the atmosphere for cleansing of the body and the mind.

Rainforest World Music Festival 2017 available tickets

In the true Festival mood, the Zumba® Fitness, Shake It! Studio and Exhilarate Fitness Studio will  hold the Zumba Fitness Party session, a total-body cardio workout innocuously disguised as a dance party.

The Festival will be held at the Sarawak Cultural Village on July 14 to 16 and will feature some 20 international bands over the three days stage shows. Among the various activities lined up for this year’s 20th anniversary celebration include the Festival’s mini sessions, cultural talks, arts & crafts for children as well as traditional food and crafts bazaars.

Rainforest World Music Festival 2017 tickets

Rainforest World Music Festival is organized by Sarawak Tourism, endorsed by Tourism Malaysia and is jointly supported by the Ministry of Tourism, Arts, Culture, Youth and Sports Sarawak and partnering with Malaysia Airlines as the presenting sponsor.

For further information on festival activities, logistics or tickets, please log on to www.rwmf.net  

For previous years festival posts, check http://asianitinerary.com/?s=rainforest+world+music+festival 

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Kuala Terengganu – The winds and sunny skies in the East Coast greeted the hot air balloon team with much excitement. Or so it seemed.

Tour locations

Pilots Izzati and Atiqah Khairudin as well as their crews made their way to Sekolah Menengah Sains Kuala Terengganu for a balloon workshop. A group of 60 students gathered at the school field to set their sights on 9M-AKA. While the weather was sunny and clear, it was definitely too windy for the balloon to be up too long.

“It’s not a let down, to be honest. In fact, it is a good way to demonstrate the nature of the balloon so that they can understand that in some circumstances, too much wind is not ideal for this aircraft, especially when it is tethered to the ground.” explains Izzati.

Lifeonair team with local hero

Life On Air, an initiative from AKA Balloon Sdn Bhd, aims to educate and expose the people to hot air balloons in their natural environment. While many have seen these gentle giants being displayed at the Putrajaya and Penang Fiestas, not many has had the opportunity to see how they really fly in the ‘real world’.

Atiqah, who takes turns to pilot the balloon with her sister had this to say, “When we fly, we are very dependent on a lot of things. We need help from our ground crews, input from the Department of Civil Aviation, the locals, especially when we fly somewhere unfamiliar. Balloons are also submissive towards the weather, so safety is always number one. Eventually you will realise that you don’t just make it on your own. It’s about teamwork and cooperation.”

The sisters above the clouds

Heavy rain in the early hours of Tuesday did not dampened the spirit of the team as they made their way to a field in Bukit Payong for their free-flying attempt. Setting up their balloon while the rain drizzles on, it eventually came to a halt just before the balloon was fully inflated.

‘Local Hero’ from Marang, Abdul Aziz Yusof who works with the Fishery Department, was selected to fly together with the sisters.

An enthusiastic man who spent his whole life working with the sea, now tries his best to attract tourists and surfers to head over to Terengganu during the monsoon season with his passion for photography. He is well known in the local surfer community and a firm believer that conservation of nature happens when people start to appreciate it.

“The best waves comes when the coral reefs break the waves,” he explained. “When people who start surfing realise this, they take the extra mile to make sure not to harm those reefs so that they can enjoy good waves when they surf. ” It is not easy to get people to share the same values when they do not see what is “in it” for them.

Up in the air with local hero Abdul Aziz

For now, it is safe to say that you can find many sports to enjoy in any kind of weather. Come rain or shine!

This expedition is made possible in association with AKA Balloon Sdn Bhd, Ford Motor Company and local distributor, Sime Darby Auto Connexion (SDAC) as Official Vehicle, iM4U.fm as Official Radio and Ultron as Official Apparel.

To find out more information on the expedition, visit www.lifeonair.asia and #LifeOnAirMY on Facebook and Twitter. Live feed is available on Youtube and Snapchat, @LifeOnAir.

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT HOT AIR BALLOON ON ASIANITINERARY.COM – CLICK HERE!

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Packaged Kek Lapis

While I am normally not a sweet/dessert type of guy, preferring the savoury section of food instead, I have always been intrigued by the traditional Kek Lapis Sarawak – or Sarawak Layer Cake. I first discovered Sarawakian Layer Cakes during a tour of Kuching town, when our guide suggested a stop at one of the various factory/retail shop existing in town, Dayang Salhah. I immediately thought, here we go, the obligatory tourist trap. But I had to redeem myself; inside the store, we were greeted by friendly staff who showed us all the different Sarawak layer cakes that they made. There were several chillers where vividly colourful layer cakes were stacked up and ready to go. They then invited us to try strips and pieces of these delicacies, and with one bite I could tell that these were no ordinary cakes: they were tasty, moist and buttery and with just the right amount of sweetness, plus you could tell they had added spices to give special aroma to each of the cakes.

tasting the delicacies

I was informed that Dayang Salhah began its operations in 1997 as a small family business, and that today it has evolved into the most famous and established manufacturer of Kek Lapis Sarawak. Check them out on http://keklapisdayangsalhah.net , you can even buy online if you live in Malaysia. I was deeply taken by Kek Lapis, and promised myself to get to know more about these traditional handcrafted cakes.

My research started with a bit of history of Kek Lapis, which seems to have been originally baked in the neighbouring Indonesia, and introduced to the people of Sarawak later, though there is also a theory that modern Sarawakian layered cakes were introduced to the people of Sarawak from innovation inspired by Western cake-making in early 1980s, using different ingredients and baking methods and giving the Sarawak version a totally unique look, crafted intricate designs and original flavours. This new generation of eye-catchingly bright layers cake is called Kek Lapis Qalas Qalas and they can be divided into two categories: ordinary layered cakes and cakes with patterns, motifs and shapes. As a rule, all Kek Lapis must have at least two colours!

yellow layers

Kek Lapis are usually baked for religious or cultural celebrations and special occasions, with Malaysian people serving them during open houses on festival days: Aidilfitri, Hari Raya, Lunar New Year, Chinese New Year, Christmas, Deepavali, birthdays and weddings.

During my following few more days in Kuching, I had the chance to see layers cakes everywhere: inside shopping malls, at bakery and pop-up stalls, at Kek Lapis specialized cute little shops and even from vendors along the riverside galleried area, an infinite choice of flavoured and rainbow-coloured delicacies from different producers and brands, there to tease your taste buds. Kek Lapis prices varies from RM10 to RM30 depending on ingredients and size of the cakes; a good deal for a local delicacy, I thought.

Packaged Kek Lapis

My curiosity took me even further, and at Maria Kek Lapis, a cute shop in one of the Kuching alleys, at 4 Jalan Bishop Gate, I asked to tell me the ‘secret’ behind these delicacies. No secret, said Maria, and prompted me to follow her into the hot and tiny kitchen where it all happens.

The recipe calls for butter, eggs, sugar, flour, milk and colouring and flavouring ingredients like pandan, chocolate, peppermint, strawberry, mango or orange, as well as products like Horlicks and Milo. Making Kek Lapis is indeed an extremely tedious job, one that can only be rewarded by the beauty of the final creation.

A layer cake usually has between 10 and 20 parallel layers of cakes, with Sarawak version using 5 layers at the bottom, a fancy design in the middle and another 5 layers at the top. This middle fancy section is achieved by creating strips of different colours cut into square or triangular shapes using a utility knife: a very skilled job!

A small amount of batter is then evenly spread in between each layer, and a 5 minutes baking time is given to the tray after each layer has been composed. Once this is done, the cake is tamped down flat with a special tool before the baker creates the next layer, and so on. Considering the number of layers at 5 minutes baking time per layer plus preparation time, you can easily work out that it takes between an hour work and two to make one single cake happen!

Kek Lapis tastings

Kek Lapis use no leavening agent and must be cooked from the top – like if you were grilling each layer; if you baked a layers cake in a conventional oven way you would end up with a dry and overcooked cake. To give Kek Lapis the high and firm texture, the layers are ‘glued’ together using jam or condensed milk, the latter usually making the cake hold longer. Special, more detailed cakes require special moulds. After baking the last layer, the cake must be cooled at room temperature before being exposed in the chiller.

Well, chapeau to the Kek Lapis makers; such a laborious and time-consuming process fully deserved my investment into different cakes! And they are not just cakes, they are pieces of art. It is still hard for me to grasp that something that takes so long to prepare and bake can be devoured in such a small amount of time!

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In my previous article, I wrote about the legend of Santubong Mountain, once a princess transformed into a mountain by her father’s curse. See http://asianitinerary.com/the-legend-behind-mount-santubong-2/ . Thus, in this article I would like to share with you a range of Santubong activities and attractions. Santubong is a great place for outing and it has become one of the mushrooming tourist attractions in Sarawak due to ongoing activities all year round. Hence, Santubong area nowadays is home to famous hotels and resorts, namely Damai Beach Resort, Damai Puri, Permai Resort and One Santubong Hotel. Besides that, Santubong is also surrounded by a few traditional villages like Kampung Buntal and Kampung Santubong, popular with its seafood and sea products like dried fish and shrimp paste.

The magnificent beach at Santubong

But now lets talk about the activities. First of all, Santubong is well known for its beautiful nature: the hills are suitable for jungle trekking, and the waterfalls areas for swimming and camping. The area is also located right next to the sea, and thanks to its amazing beach, Santubong offers plenty of beach activities: fishing, kayaking, swimming, as well as partying, picnic and gathering. It is such a peaceful place that adapts itself to family gatherings or even class gathering and religion gathering. Santubong is the best retreat for those who want to find a place for relaxing and sightseeing as well as for some thrilling adventure.

I can still remember when back in 2009, when I was at university doing my bachelor program, my friend and I used to come here for picnic. We would usually choose Damai Beach Resort and found the area to be the best escape from our studying lives. When there, I would grab the opportunity to go for one of my favorite activities: kayaking. From out at sea, I had the chance to see the beach scenery from a different perspective, and I can assure you it is a totally different feeling! I also loved messing with the sand, playing volleyball and finally, swimming in the blue sea, always bewaring of the jellyfish of course.

BBQ by the beach

Apart from the various activities, Santubong has several attractions. When talking about Santubong, those who have been there always remember the Sarawak Cultural Village, or SCV, a place where to meet and learn about Sarawak, the land of hornbill, of culture, of traditional architecture, of food, dance and lifestyle from various ethnic groups. A place that tourists should not miss, and a must visit if you wish to know about the Sarawak people.

Finally, after offering a great deal of nature and culture, Santubong is also popular with the world-famous music festival known as the Rainforest World Music Festival, running yearly since 1998. This event is held precisely inside the Sarawak Cultural Village, right at the foot of Mount Santubong. If you love world music, don’t miss this great event. Check it out on www.rwmf.net

That’s all can I share for now. I hope you enjoy your trip to Sarawak, and the numerous Santubong activities and attractions!

Check out on our recent trek to Santubong Waterfall HERE !

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Mount Santubong is one of the most famous tourist attraction places in Sarawak. Located 35 kilometer from Kuching City, and reachable in a 45 minutes drive, facing the South China Sea and with its height of 2,658 feet above sea level Mount Santubong is a great deal for those who love hiking and jungle trekking. According to history, Mount Santubong was discovered by British naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace in 1855 while he was collecting specimen in Sarawak. Mount Santubong has been gazetted as one of Sarawak’s National Parks, and its nearby beach is recognized as one of the biggest wetland areas in the whole of Borneo. I find it worth telling you of the legend behind Mount Santubong.

Mount Santubong crowned by clouds

When people pass by Mount Santubong, they usually comment that it has the shape of a woman’s profile; whether this is true or not we leave to you to discover. What we can do is relate the legend behind it. Once upon a time, two beautiful sister princesses from heaven came down to earth to bring peace to a dispute between two local villages. Santubong and Sejinjang were their names, and they were both very talented: Santubong had amazing weaving skills while her sister Sejinjang was known for her talent in pounding rice. These two princess had many admires but would accept nobody’s charm for some time until one day they met Prince Serapi.

Great sandy beach at Damai

Prince Serapi fell in love with both of them and wanted both to become his wives. Santubong and Sejinjang in turn both loved Prince Serapi, and a frightful fight ensued since each of them wished to become Prince Serapi’s only wife. The quarrel turned increasing violent, with Sejinjang hitting Santubong in the cheek with her rice pounder and Santubong fighting back and hitting Sejinjang with her belidak, a tool used to weave cloths.

When their father the King realized what was happening, he was extremely angry and came down to earth to curse the three of them. Both sisters were transformed into mountains, namely Mount Santubong and Mount Sejinjang, while the broken pieces of Sejinjang’s head scattered into the sea and became islands: Pulau Kerak, Pulau Satang, Pulau Talang-Talang, Pulau Lakir and many more.

Myth and history mix in the traditional folkloric tales of the legend behind Mount Santubong. If you plan to visit Santubong, don’t miss a visit to the surrounding attractions such as Sarawak Cultural Village (SCV), Damai beach, Kampung Buntal and the waterfalls.

Check out on our trek to Santubong Waterfall HERE !

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Have you ever heard anything about Trance music? For so many decades, people have been creating music either for dancing, having fun or representing their ethnic cultures. Music has been  around as long as man, and throughout the ages people have reveled in the joy of creating music, singing songs and dancing along to the sounds. Music makes people move, it plays with your heartstrings, and it transcends place and time: it has that spiritual significance that connects people. And so I wonder: can you even imagine how many genres of music there are in the world altogether? Of course if we consider that different countries and places offer different versions of each genre, a full number is hard to be achieved. We can though state that there are approximately around 22 types of music genres in the world, to name a few: pop, opera, alternative, electronic, reggae, rock, R&B, jazz, indie pop, hip hop, country, blues. Most of these will sound familiar to you.

The venue at Santubong

In this article I would like to tell you more about Trance music, starting with a brief introduction. Trance is a contemporary kind of music that was establish in the 1990s in the Netherlands and Germany. Also called Electronic Dance Music (EDM), Trance is well known, and although it is undeniable that Trance is a combination of other electronic music styles including techno, house, pop, chill-out and classical, it is nowadays considered a genre on its own. Trance music repeats melodic phrases and plays at between 125 to mid-160 beats per minute. Instruments used for this type of music are synthesizers, keyboards, drums, machines, sequencers, samplers, rhythm composer drum machines and digital audio workstations.

December 2014 marked an historical date for Kuching, Borneo, as the “ALOT – A Land of Trance” energetic music festival was organized in order to shake the city of cats with Trance music. ALOT Project Manager Isaac is a young man who has dedicated his life to music and has been involved in such kinds of events since 2-years ago. He is only 24 but he is proud to have handled, amongst other events,  Elements of sound and Armada Night.

Isaac at the interview

Talking to Isaac, I found out that Kuching was chosen to held this prestigious event in order to educate Borneo people, not really familiar with Trance music, that this genre exist. Isaac, a Trance music lover, refers Trance as a state of hypnotism and heightened consciousness where music mixes with many layers and rhythms. He certainly sees Sarawak as a new market for Trance music, and for this he envisage this event happening in Sarawak for the next 5 years, starting with 2 ALOT events for March and August 2015 when the festival will be extended from a two-day t a three-day event. “I am confident that this first event, which has combined the support of female leading vocalists to achieve the unique sub-genre ‘vocal trance’, has surely helped us to market the next events, where we expect the show to be much more alive with a much bigger audience”, he finally expressed.

Meanwhile, 26 years old Ben Gold, one of the Dj performers from London, stated that the best word to describe trance music is ‘universal’. Ben has been spinning since the age of 16, when he   first showed interest in Trance thanks to his passion for music:

“It did not necessary have to be Trance, but this genre got me connected as soon as I heard it; I am a Dj and realized that while performing it was not that easy to put to work, but when I got it right, I saw the positive reaction on thousands of people. Of course, studio works helps as it is there that I get the ideas for my Dj sets, ideas that have to get both producers and the audience in total emulsion, but in the end my base inspiration come live, when I see the crowd dancing!”.

A DJs on stage

Ben’s inspirations are Djs Armin Van Buuren, Chris Schweizer and Harry Koster. He has been performing Dj music in many countries around the world, especially in USA, Australia and Indonesia, and has recently signed a contract with Armada Music and with Garuda. Asked about the future of Trance music, Ben commented that the genre is looking very healthy and evolving, and that he is really excited to look into the future. His advice for those who want to become a Dj is to work hard, be genuine, create your own music and identity, be different and don’t be lazy. For him, the 10 years involvement in Trance music has made him realize that to stay in Trance, all he has to do is stay relevant, while also retaining and keeping his original sound through his creativity.

In the end I only had a short time to connect to 30 years old Trance vocalist Susana Bookings from Holland, also making who her appearance in Kuching. She started her connection with Trance music with a song called Shivers. According to Susanna, being a trance vocalist is all about emotions and music combined in a form of art, and her inspiration mainly comes from the music itself.

That’s all I can share about Trance music for now. I hope this has been an inspiration to you all. If you want to know more about Trance music and to what it sounds like, log onto ALOT websiste https://www.alandoftrance.com

Electronic dance music is rapidly gathering popularity all through the entire world! Get to know more here: https://www.musicinstrumentscenter.com/edm-revolution-in-music-era/ 

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BEN GOLD

Looking for great performances? A Land of Trance 2014 is going to be the biggest trance event/music festival in Borneo this year, and the spectacular Dj’s from all over the world guarantee plenty of dancing!

This prestigiouns event, organized by the Mysterious Asia, will be held at the Damai Central in Santubong, Kuching, Friday and Saturday 12-13 December, and it is going to rock the natural environment.

This two days event consists of robust performances from the biggest Dj’s names to date: Orjan Nilsen, Alex M.O.R.P.H, Marlo, Lisa Lashes-smashing dancer, Sneijder, Bryan Kearney, Ben Gold, Bjorn Akesson, Alexander Popov, Antillas, Betsy Larkin, Susana and Alexandra Badoi. Besides that, the stage will also shake under performances from homegrown talents from Malaysia including Herbert Lye and Azlie Azurael, IMX Projext, Neoteric Nova and G-Nerate.

A Land of Trance 2014 was organized with the aim to bring togetherness amongst local talents and international acts, as well as revelers around South East Asia and promoters from around the world.

Mysterious Asia is well aware that recognizing that electronic dance music will be part of our musical future, and it is therefore determined to deliver the best festival production to ensure maximum satisfaction and safety to the supporters.

Tickets to A Land of Trance 2014 festival are available both online and through official agents, and are reasonably priced  Pre-sale price for normal entry is RM 88.00 and VIP Selling is at RM 158.00. Door sale price will be RM 108.00 for normal entry and RM 188.00 for VIP.

If you are DJ music lovers, what are you waiting for? Make sure you don’t miss A Land of Trance 2014 great and crazy show! For further details on the event and for ticket purchase, package stays and other, visit www.alandoftrance.com.

LISA LASHES

DOS:

• come early
• get hidrated
• bring cash
• bring your party friends
• bring your valid ID
• rain or shine, keep dancing
• take lots of pics
• wear proper party attire

DONTS:

• take drugs
• bring food or drinks from outside
• bring explosives or weapons

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The resort grounds

Borneo Highlands is a resort located in Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo, in the foothills of the Kuching province; it lays 60 km from town, an easy one hour drive. Since Kuching is a very simple province, full of multicultural ethnics and historical buildings, you will hear lots of dialects and languages on the way to this little heaven, as well as enjoying beautiful panoramas.

Borneo Highlands is the perfect hideaway for those seeking tranquility and peace from work and from the hustle and bustle of urban life. The resort is a kind of retreat destination as it offers more than just amusing scenery.

National Border

Among the attractions are a golf area, a jungle spa, nature, local food, herbal teas, an orchid’s garden, and freshwater from the waterfall. Yet, the most amazing place in Borneo Highlands is at the border between Malaysia and Kalimantan, Indonesia, nestled between the oldest and world’s second-largest tropical rainforest.

As Borneo Highlands Resort was created with emphasis to blend with nature, it naturally offers boundless outdoors activities all year round. One of these activities is the Padawan Nature Challenge which is jointly organized by Padawan Municipal Council and Borneo Highlands Resort.  It is a cycling and trekking adventure with competition amateurs categories, a challenge that gives the opportunity for adventurous nature lovers to be close to Mother Nature while experiencing the environmental and adventure tourism aspects of Padawan and of Borneo Highlands Resort.

Our writer Cato with a friend

Well, as for me, a day trip to Borneo Highlands is so exciting and meaningful that I always leave with a craving for more adventure there. On that one day trip, I managed to experience the real nature, to feel the fresh air, to taste botanical tea and delicious vegetarian food, as well as to visit Malaysia’s national borders.

So, if it is back to nature, it is back to Borneo Highlands Resort.

For information and bookings, visit Borneo Highlands Resort website at http://www.borneohighlands.com.my

BOOK A ROOM NOW AT BORNEO HIGHLANDS THROUGH THIS LINK !

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At Annah Rais Hot Springs entrance with Miss Karum my host

Since I was on a 3 days tour to Annah Rais longhouse recently, I took the opportunity to visit nearby Annah Rais Hot Springs. I awoke rested after my second night at Karum Bidayuh Homestay in Annah Rais. I breakfasted with the usual dose of double-egg omelet and rice and I enjoyed an energizing serving of Sarawak coffee, all kindly prepared by our host Miss Karum whom, while we had our food, she got ready for the drive to the Annah Rais Hot Springs.

I was so glad I had decided to wake up early and make my way to the hot springs: 8 am is such a great time to arrive there. The place was totally empty, the only person there was a gardener, busy trimming the grass and pruning plants in the well taken-care of gardens that run on both sides along the 5 minutes walk from the entrance to the springs. I have heard you can have the place all to yourself during weekdays when there are no locals at the springs. By the ticket counter, unattended yet, there was a coffee shop that looked like it had not been opened for some time.

Down at the site, on a hill platform beside a small river below, there are basic showers and changing rooms, though they look quite unattended and a bit run down, so I would go for the open showers outside the stalls when you need a rinse. The river was very clean with clear crystal water. A cement staircase takes down to the stream where visitors have to wade across cold waters to reach the main pool. This wade can be tricky since the currents can be quite fast and you need to be sure-footed in order to not give in to the waters and to the slippery stones.

Wading the river at Annah Rais Hot Springs

I crossed the knee-deep cold water carefully and reached a man-made pool on the opposite side, complete with a wooden platform that serves as a sunbathing area. The weather was fantastic and I changed into my swimming gear, observing worryingly as, from a few points in the depth of the pool water, small springs released boiling bubbles.

I sank into the hot invigorating water, which I reckoned to be about 40degrees, and after a few minutes my body mellowed and I felt like being in another world. I closed my eyes and concentrated deeply in order to bear the light discomfort given by the very hot water. The nature around me was quiet, and only a few sounds could be heard: crickets and the water slowly gurgling down from the small stream below. I relaxed and felt the spring water invigorating and refreshing tired leg muscles. I opened my eyes again and a huge butterfly, showing off her black velvety wings with bright-green features, was flying in circles around my head.

Hot bubbles from the smaller spring

She left only to give way to a couple of red dragonflies that stopped and stalled right in front of my face, still and motionless apart from their fast-beating wings. The area is so beautiful and natural that I really felt at one with nature.

Ten minutes into my dip, I got out and entered the cold river below; my body welcomed this initiative, and I felt so healthy and refreshed, revitalized. After two more of these hot/cold water switches, I stood on top of the wooden decking and did a few rounds of sun-salutation. Yoga was such a pleasure in that peaceful environment.

As more visitors made their way to the pool, we went to check out the small hot spring further downriver, which was right in the middle of the river. The water there was fairly hot, not hot enough to boil or cook an egg, but hot enough to probably burn you a bit. We gave it a pass and went back to the waiting area. Back there, there were lots of people soaking in the pool, and this confirmed the early bird visit was a good idea!

FACTS

It is interesting to know that the pools were built by the local community and are at the service of visitors. You must bring your own food for picnics near the river and meals; do come prepared as the nearest food outlet is a long way off. The ticket attendant at the entrance sells soft drinks.

Notice board at Annah Rais Hot Springs

At the Annah Rais Hot Springs there is no info on water temperature, advised bathing times and benefits of the hot waters. There is instead a board telling you that you swim at your own risk. Be advised that you need to check the water temperature before dipping in, and that you should keep the dipping sessions to a maximum of 10 minutes each, alternating them with a shorter dip into the cool water river below or a cold shower. Before you leave Annah Rais Hot Springs, please keep the place clean by throwing your rubbish into the rubbish bins provided.

Located the Padawan District, Annah Rais Hot Springs are a 1-hour scenic drive from Kuching city along the way to Borneo Highlands Resort, and just 3 km from Annah Rais village, which makes them easily reachable on foot or by bicycle. Entrance ticket is 5 Rm each.

Asian Itinerary stayed at the Karum Bidayuh Homestay. For information and bookings, contact Miss Karum or Jenny at Karum Bidayuh Homestay, tel. (+60) 0168981675, email yeominghua@yahoo.com or t_weiyu86@hotmail.com,  or check their website at www.longhouseinborneo.com

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One of the homestays

Have you ever been to a longhouse? Would you like to stay in a longhouse? Are you curious about how the people in a longhouse go by their daily life?Here in Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo, the land of the hornbills, there are lots of longhouses that offer that chance. The one I went to and I suggest is called Annah Rais Longhouse.

Annah Rais Longhouse

I got curious straight away when I first met 44 years old Jenny Dudu, the woman who was responsible to make me feel at home during this trip, and enquired about the name of the village. Apparently, the original name was Annah Raih, which means a ‘village in a valley’. Villagers later proposed to call the village Kampung Senah Negeri, which practically means the same thing. However, the Government refused to approve it as Negeri can also means ‘state’. The misspelled name of Annah Rais was finally granted. Would you believe me if I told you that this village history goes back 280 years?

Located 63 kilometer from Kuching City, a 1 hour and 45 minutes drive away, Annah Rais is a village surrounded by beautiful mountains, rivers and trees. It has more than 600 residents within 137 households. When you take the trouble to come here, you will be rewarded not only by feeling the nature under your feet and around you, but also by meeting the warm people from the village. Try to say “Ani agah nga” or how are you? For sure they will reply back!

Playing a bamboo instrument

Thomas and I arrived at this unique and fabulous place on a late afternoon last June, and we were immediately welcomed by Jenny, who brought us to Karum Bidayuh Homestay, a homestay situated at the far side of the village. I can honestly tell you that my first impression of the village upon arrival was just normal. However, I discovered how amazing it is from the moment I started walking. I noticed that the roofed longhouse had a small garden at the corner with different types of vegetable: pumpkin, tapioca, corn and more. Besides that, a long platform covered entirely by suspended bamboo, and in the houses, friendly villagers. Even though they were busy doing their craft work, they still turned to say hi, and smiled. I found this to be good and unique, don’t you agree?

Karum with the tree she uses to make tea

After a few more meters of walking, we met the homestay owner, Miss Karum.  Her homestay is so beautiful, made of wood and with a tin roof.  The wall was painted green and I could not believe my eyes that her homestay was so clean. There is a sofa set along with a television and some traditional local art hanging on the wall. Karum is a nice woman who welcomed us with all of her heart. She showed us around the house, took us to the small and tidy kitchen, to the toilet, and lastly to our rooms on the upper floor. The rooms are simple but really comfortable and from my window, I could see the beautiful longhouse area. Since that night it was raining, I can’t really tell you about the sky, but the air was really fresh. Take advantage if you go there: breathe easy and a lot, expelling all the toxins you store in your body.

My cozy room

That evening, Karum cooked for us a very delicious traditional food. We can assure you she is really good at cooking, I am sure you would enjoy her food too. The dinner consisted of a chicken soup with pumpkin, some local vegetable called ‘tepuk’, tapioca leaves and white plant. Once we finished with dinner, Karum shared her local rice wine with us, made by herself! I can tell you it is the nicest rice wine I have ever had, really smooth and a bit sweet.

Bakah Baras!

If you give it a go, I advise you not to over drink it as rice wine can make you drunk without you realizing it. Karum told me she sells the rice wine at an affordable 10 RM per bottle, so don’t hesitate to buy a bottle or two for back home.

Apart from rice wine, Karum also makes a traditional tea known as ‘Bakah Baras’ in Bidayuh Biatah language. She told me that this tea was originally made from a special tree that can only be found in the forest. To make that into a tea, first the trunk needs to be dried in the hot sun, and later cut and split into small bits. After that, she cooks one or two pieces of it together with pandan leaves to make it into a tea. Bakah Baras is good for health, especially for diabetes, cholesterol and blood flow. Since it can only be found in Annah Rais, people in the city call it the ‘Annah Rais Tea’, a drink inherited from generation to generation. If you interested about this tea, I suggest you contact Karum, and no worries, its cheap at only 5 RM per plastic bag.

Full with energy from the dinner and excited about our trip to the waterfall the next day, Thomas and I slept really well with our windows opened: no need for air-con there!

Karum contact details

For information and bookings, contact Miss Karum or Jenny at Karum Bidayuh Homestay – tel. (+60) 0168981675 – emailyeominghua@yahoo.com or t_weiyu86@hotmail.com or check their website at www.longhouseinborneo.com

Furthermore, to know about what happened the day after, read Thomas account on the jungle trekking to the waterfall at http://asianitinerary.com/annah-rais-trek-to-the-waterfall/

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Leading us to the waterfall

Villagers are slowly appearing behind open doors of wooden houses. Roosters sing repeating songs and cats roam around, occasionally showing a fight or an act of love. This is Annah Rais village, so near town, so easily reached by road, yet so much a world apart. Staff looks like a really nice, quiet guy; he tights his knife holder around his waist, lights a cigarette and prompts us to start the walk.

Staff and Cato on a traditional bridge

We leave the village small lanes and enter a muddy terrain, climbing steps made up of bamboo branches. The ascent is steep. The undergrowth around us is so full of humus, with vast forests of amazingly tall and thick bamboo and the occasional ferns and palms. Sweat runs copiously from my head and from every pore of my body, and we are forced to make several stops in order to rehydrate. Staff uses his machete skilfully to make walking sticks out of bamboo for us to aide our walk, and we surely appreciate it!

As the vegetation gets denser and the humidity higher, we slowly start to realize the challenge of walking along these leech-infested paths. It is advisable to wear long trousers and proper socks in order to avoid the bloodsuckers banqueting with your vital juice. Also, remember to carry plenty of water supply even if your guide carries some for you. You will use it!

Rafflesias carnivore plants in bloom

Staff occasionally clears the path with his sharp machete, moving falling bamboo branches, logs and overhanging vegetation. He tells us these paths are used only by local farmers to reach their cultivations of tapioca, banana and various other vegetables. We cross craftily-made bamboo bridges over suspended small streams, and occasionally stop to observe and take a picture of colourful wild flowers, orchids, pitcher plants and unique mushrooms, with only the sound of nature accompanying us.

We keep on walking for about two hours; the last section of the track is so wet from the night rain that our boots sink in the muddy terrain, making us loose balance. The reward is indeed worth the effort: the three-tiered waterfall has jumps of at least 30 meters each, the last two discharging water in natural ponds that call for a dip!

Lunch is cooking the natural way

Staff makes camp, lights a fire and cuts huge chunks of hollow bamboo branches in which he places the chicken he has carried from home together with stems of various ferns and palms picked up during the walk, closing the top with fresh leaves and placing the natural container right inside the fire.

The waterfalls tiers

Meanwhile I climb to the upper tier, take off my soaking wet clothes, place them to dry on a sun-hit stone and free my ankles from small sucking leeches clinging to my skin and hiding inside my shoes. Job done, I enjoy a dip in the cold, refreshing pond. I then decide to daringly sit on a wet stone right below the waterfall and linger a while under the powerful wall of water hitting my back. The impact is so violent that I cannot bear more than a few minutes in that position.

Happy and refreshed, I sit on a moss-covered stone to dry myself under the scorching sun, disturbed only by the sudden call from Staff: lunch is served. We sit on a bench made of bamboo and eat generous servings of rice in banana leaves, chicken and palm hearts cooked in bamboo and boiled tapioca leaves. Delicious!

The stream below

The walk back is a bit of a photocopy of the walk there, only we walk faster with a fewer stops. By the time we reach back Annah Rais, where Miss Karum receives us with a smile and a couple of ice cold beers, 7 hours have passed! We are exhausted but so happy to have achieved a wonderful adventure in the foot of the ancient Borneo mountains: a trek to the waterfall!

Homestay official program license

Special thanks go to Karum Bidayuh Homestay and to Staff (a few shots of rice wine that evening made him more than happy!). We highly recommend this tour; yet, if you are about to embark on this adventure, please remember that a few people walk half of the way and decide to walk back… The hike lasts 2 hours each way and it is de-man-ding. The weather is hot and humid and the copious sweating can take its toll, especially on a hot day. The ascents/descents are steep. If you are concerned, you are not physically fit enough, you are not used to trekking in the jungle or have a medical condition, ask Miss Karum to arrange a car to cover at least half of the trek and leave you to a nearer starting point, or opt to nearby hot springs, still a nice experience but not so hard.

Karum contact details

For information and bookings, contact Miss Karum or Jenny at Karum Bidayuh Homestay

tel. (+60) 0168981675

email yeominghua@yahoo.com or t_weiyu86@hotmail.com

or check their website at www.longhouseinborneo.com

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