As part of our ongoing quest to discover the hidden corners of Thailand, we decided it was time to leave the crowded beaches of Phuket and Ao Nang behind. We wanted that feeling of discovery again. So, for Asian Itinerary, we pointed our car north from the tourist hub of Krabi and drove towards the wilder coast of Ao Thalane. Often called the “Guilin of Thailand” due to its dramatic limestone karsts rising directly out of the emerald water, Ao Thalane (or Ao Tha Lane) felt like we had stumbled into a lost world. This wasn’t just about sightseeing; it was about immersing ourselves in the quiet rhythm of the mangroves. Here is the story of our 48-hour escape. Day 1: Jungle Canals and Sunset Seafood Our Home on the Beach: Le Passetemps We arrived in the late morning and checked into our sanctuary for the next two nights: Le Passetemps. Tucked away on the quiet Tub Kaek coastline, this wasn’t your standard Thai resort. It felt like staying at an eccentric, well-traveled friend’s estate. The property is intimate—just a handful of wooden bungalows scattered around a lush garden and a private beach. We immediately understood the positive reviews we had read online. Le Passetemps is peaceful, with a “Phuket of 20 years ago” vibe. The best part? They run their own travel agency on-site, which is incredibly convenient. They don’t just sell generic tours; they listen to what you want to do. After settling in, we took their advice and headed out for our first adventure. The Crystal Waters of Tha Pom Just a 20-minute drive from the resort lies a natural phenomenon you absolutely cannot miss: Tha Pom Khlong Song Nam (or Tha Pom Canal). This is a stunningly preserved natural park where a boardwalk winds through a pristine mangrove forest. The magic of Tha Pom is the “Canals of Two Waters.” As you walk the 700-meter wooden bridge, you look down into the clearest, most ethereal blue-green water I have ever seen. It looks like a natural swimming pool. And all around us, rising dramatically from the emerald greenery, were the tall karst mountains that Krabi is famous for—their limestone cliffs towering over the mangroves like ancient guardians. The view was simply breathtaking. We found the designated swimming area and jumped in. The water was cool and refreshing, flowing from a natural spring out to the sea. You can rent a kayak here too, but we opted just to float and stare up at the intertwining branches of the trees above. Lunch with a View at The Bay After working up an appetite swimming and hiking the nature trails, we drove to The Bay Thalane Restaurant. Located right on the estuary, this isn’t just a place to eat; it’s a front-row seat to the limestone canyon views. We grabbed a table overlooking the water. As we dug into fresh seafood and spicy Thai salads, we watched other kayakers paddling slowly through the channels. The atmosphere was laid-back, the ingredients were fresh, and the view of the karsts reflecting off the still water was mesmerizing. It was the perfect, relaxed lunch spot before our big day ahead. Day 2: Paddling the Canyon Thalane Bay Kayaking Expedition This was the main event. The next morning, with the sun high and the tide rising (crucial for navigating the mangroves), we returned to the bay and drove directly to the launch point at Thalane Bay. This is hands-down the best kayaking in Krabi. The route takes you deep into a labyrinth of towering limestone cliffs and narrow canyons. Paddling through the Din Daeng Canyon (sometimes called the “Green Canyon”) was surreal. The walls are steep, covered in dripping ferns, and the silence is only broken by the calls of birds and the splash of monitor lizards sliding into the water. We navigated through “hongs” (collapsed cave systems) where we floated in hidden lagoons completely enclosed by rock walls. It felt like being in a scene from Jurassic Park. Even if you are a beginner, the bay is protected from the open sea wind, making it an easy paddle. We spent about 3 hours exploring, including a stop at a “Monkey Beach” where we watched macaques playing in the trees. Final Thoughts   If you want to see a side of Thailand that hasn’t been polished for the masses, go to Ao Thalane. Stay at Le Passetemps for the quiet vibes, cool off at Tha Pom for the unreal clear water, and paddle Thalane Bay for the adventure of a lifetime. One piece of practical advice before you go: always carry water with you. The Thai heat and humidity are no joke, especially when you are kayaking under the midday sun or hiking the nature trails at Tha Pom. There are small shops at the entrances of these parks, but once you are deep inside the mangrove canyons or floating in those hidden lagoons, there are no vendors in sight. Dehydration can sneak up on you quickly. We each carried a reusable 1.5-liter bottle, and we finished every drop by the time we returned to shore. Trust me, you will thank yourself later. It’s the perfect antidote to a busy city life.   📋 Practical Info Box 🌙 Le Passetemps Resort Website: www.lepassetemps-krabi.com (French/English). Price: 2,000–4,000 THB/night (depends on season & room type). Features: 9 private bungalows, beachfront location, on-site restaurant “Le Bac-à-Sable” (Thai & international cuisine, wine list, cocktails). Direct booking benefits: Lowest rates guaranteed, 10% loyalty discount, free room upgrade (subject to availability), welcome drink. 🚣 Thalane Bay Kayaking Price: 300–500 THB (self-guided rental) / 800–1,000 THB (guided 3-hour tour). Tip: Go at high tide to enter the narrow canyons. Le Passetemps can arrange private mangrove kayak tours (2 hours). 🏞️ Tha Pom Khlong Song Nam Entrance fee: 100 THB for foreigners. Open: Daily 8:30 AM – 5:30 PM. Surrounded by tall karst mountains. 🍽️ The Bay Thalane Restaurant Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/hjtmrkWuFAyJAqC29  or Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/TheBayThalaneKrabi  Tip: Go at sunset for the best views of the limestone karsts. 💧 Tip Always carry at least 1.5 liters of water per person. No vendors once you are inside the parks or kayaking the canyons.

The post A 2-Day Kayaking & Mangrove Escape to Ao Thalane appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

This autumn, Laguna Lang Co is inviting travellers to savour the great outdoors with a line-up of land and water-based adventures designed to showcase the natural beauty, biodiversity, and culture of Central Vietnam. Framed by a three-kilometre beach and backed by the Annamite Mountains, the resort is situated in the Chan May region, overlooking the East Sea – a pristine coastal stretch renowned for its dramatic scenery and rich heritage. With over 100 activities on offer, from heart-thumping rides to tranquil paddles, guests can immerse themselves in the landscapes and lifestyle of Lang Co. For those drawn to the water, kayak and stand-up paddleboard safaris follow the lower Bu Lu River, passing through mangroves, fishing villages, and buffalo cooling in the shallows. More high-octane options include Jet Ski safaris along boulder-strewn shores and inflatable boat trips into the mangrove forests. On land, the adventures range from gentle farm and forest walks through rice paddies and nursery gardens, where ducks and buffalo play a role in natural farming, to more demanding hikes that climb to wartime lookout points before descending to the Cu Du Rocks. Cyclists can choose between leisurely 6km rides along packed sands between fishing villages, immersive cultural loops past markets and pagodas, or challenging fat bike trails threading through forest and farmland. Thrill-seekers can take to the resort’s ATV safaris, following forest and beach trails to panoramic viewpoints, or unwind with gentler pursuits such as tennis, bocce ball, or a mini football match. “These activities are about much more than just filling your day,” said Gavin Herholdt, Managing Director of Laguna Lang Co. “They connect you with the people, the traditions, and the extraordinary landscapes of Lang Co. Whether you’re paddling through mangroves at sunrise or cycling past rice paddies with the scent of woodsmoke in the air, you’re seeing a side of Vietnam that stays with you long after you’ve returned home.” Sustainability runs through the programme. Local guides lead most activities, ensuring income flows into the community, while trails and waterways are maintained to minimise environmental impact. Many tours are private, allowing guests to move at their own pace and spend more time in the moments that matter most. After a day of adventure, guests can return to the comfort of the property’s two award-winning resorts — Banyan Tree Lang Co or Angsana Lang Co — enjoy elevated cuisine at a range of outlets that run the culinary gamut from Vietnam to the Mediterranean via Thailand, Japan, Korea, and other nations, or play a round on the Sir Nick Faldo–designed championship golf course that winds between jungle, rice paddies, and coastal dunes. “From families and wellness seekers to solo explorers, Laguna Lang Co offers an active gateway to one of Vietnam’s most visually striking regions,” added Herholdt. “Here, where the mountains meet the sea, adventure begins the moment you step outside.”

The post Laguna Lang Co Launches Autumn Programme appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

On our recent car journey around Bali, my 6-year-old son, Leonardo, and I spent time exploring the tranquil Pemuteran area. We were lucky to be based at the remarkable Sumberkima Hill Retreat, which offered more than just a breathtaking place to stay; it introduced us to a cause that deeply resonated with us: Metamorfosa. Metamorfosa is a local NGO with a focus on environmental restoration and community empowerment. Founded to address the damaging impact of illegal logging and deforestation, the organisation works on afforestation, reef restoration, and mangrove rehabilitation around the Sumberkima Bay area. They also aim to engage and support local communities by providing sustainable job opportunities that protect, rather than exploit, Bali’s natural resources. Their reef restoration projects are particularly fascinating; they use innovative, eco-friendly techniques to encourage coral growth, helping rebuild the local marine ecosystem. You can read more about their mission and efforts here. Sumberkima Hill collaborated with Metamorfosa to arrange a short kayaking tour for us through the bay, offering a chance to see their impact firsthand. Leonardo and I jumped at the opportunity, and our guide—a true expert—led us through a peaceful yet adventurous exploration of the area. We started our journey at low tide, gliding over the shallow sea in Sumberkima Bay, where the clear water allowed us to see the sandy seabed and glimpses of sea life: huge starfish, kelp forests, corals and sea urchins. Our first destination was a small tropical island in the bay, Gili Putih , and though the paddling required some effort, the reward was well worth it. Along the way, we stopped at a floating fish farm, where Leonardo was thrilled to walk on the platforms and observe the fish swimming in the nets. Once we arrived at the island, we took a break on the quiet, sandy shores, surrounded by clear, warm water and lush greenery. Leonardo had a chance to explore, gathering shells and small rocks as keepsakes from our adventure. After resting, we made our way back, soaking up the views and the sun. As we paddled, we passed thick mangrove forests, their roots dipping into the water and forming a natural barrier against erosion and storm surges. Our guide explained how the mangroves play a crucial role in maintaining the ecosystem, providing habitats for fish and absorbing carbon dioxide. The day was as much an educational journey as an adventure, leaving both of us inspired by Metamorfosa’s work and the pristine beauty of the natural environment. Leonardo and I returned to Sumberkima Hill feeling grateful for the experience and eager to support the organisation’s conservation efforts in any way we can. For families visiting Bali who are keen to learn about local ecology and support sustainable tourism, this experience in Sumberkima Bay is a must!

The post Leonardo kayaking at Sumberkima Bay appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Sunrise Cambodia provides a safe and nurturing learning environment to children living some of the most impoverished communities in the world. Sunrise Cambodiais the registered Australian charity I founded in 1993, which supports Sunrise Children’s Villages, where they have a residential centre for at-risk children, giving 24/7 care to more than 100 children, 20 kms from Phnom Penh.  The children that come to us have often been trafficked into prostitution, slave labour, begging rings, illegal adoption rings, are victims of domestic violence due to parental alcoholism or drug dependency, abandoned in hospitals by their families,  disabled or live on the streets to survive. As a result, they are in great need emotionally and physically when they arrive at Sunrise Cambodia. At Sunrise Cambodia these poor young victims are rescued from their terrible situation in life, and provided a home, food, clothing, government school, medical and dental care, English, Mandarin and computer lessons, classes in music, art, dance and sport, but more important of all, love.  They provide university studies in Cambodia when they pass Grade 12 and they cover other living costs for them outside Sunrise Cambodia for these students. For the students who do not pass, they give them vocational training courses in car repair, air conditioning maintenance, plumbing, electricity, printing, administration, management, hospitality and beauty. No one leaves us without a job and the means to live an independent life. In addition, they support more than 150 disadvantaged community children from neighbouring villages. Their parents are often very poor rice farmers, who cannot provide their children such a good start in life.  At Sunrise Cambodia they receive the same educational opportunities as our residential children and return home at the end of the day to live with their families. ABOUT SUNRISE CAMBODIA Sunrise Cambodia is a world-class charity working on the ground in Cambodia to give much-needed help to at-risk kids, struggling families and poor communities in some of the most poverty-stricken provinces of the country. Cambodia has a heart breaking recent history which has crippled this beautiful south east Asian country. During the 1960s and ’70s, while civil war raged in Cambodia, the USA carpet bombed the Cambodian countryside. The communists won the civil war and over the next four years, more than a quarter of the population was systematically murdered by its leader, Pol Pot. More than thirty years later, the disastrous impact on the gentle-natured people of Cambodia is still profound. Sunrise Cambodia began in the early 1990s when a South Australian fifty-year old named Geraldine Cox began a small orphanage to care for the some of the orphaned grandchildren from Pol Pot’s regime. Unable to have her own children, Geraldine became “Mum to Many” as she took in street kids, orphans and the disabled to give them good food, a place to sleep, an education and lots of love. With the need so great, Sunrise Cambodia has grown to support whole communities with the basics for survival: clean water, sanitation and healthcare, followed by education. We have 100 Cambodian staff and a small fundraising team in Australia. The work of Sunrise Cambodia is entirely funded by generous donors. For information and donations, contact: https://www.sunrisecambodia.org.au/ https://www.facebook.com/sunrisecambodia/ hq@sunrisecambodia.org.au

The post Sunrise Cambodia appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

It is no doubt that Krabi is suitable for eco-tourism and sustainable programs linked to local communities. Last month we made our way there to be part of a Community Based Tourism (CBT) tour organised by a community of farmers and fishermen at Baan Khuan O. The tour explores the mountain of Khao Garos by means of boat and kayak, paddling along waters enclosed by one of the most majestic canyons in Ao Luek district, Krabi. At our arrival at Baan Khuan O pier we were introduced to the boat owner, a proud member of Baan Khuan O community, as well as an explorer and discoverer of all the natural beauties we were going to visit. We were informed that there are 160 villagers involved in this project, a total of 8 communities adhering to the CBT program. Baan Khuan O project limits the tour to 120 visitors per day, with only 60 per day allowed inside the canyon in order to preserve the environment there. Following the introductions and initial chat, we split: some boarded the longtail boats for the much-attended tour of Khao Garos canyon, while some boarded their kayak and started paddling. I had the luck of initially being in the boat with our guide and his daughter, and while the guide propelled the vessel towards the maze of mangrove canals, I took in the amazing views of the limestone mountains that surrounded us all around. The rest of the group kayaked along the mangrove-sided huge canal. We slowly approached the high rock face of Khao Garos mountain, and understood the meaning of the name: Garos in ancient Malay language means ‘not beautiful’, and this was clear seeing the ragged and rough surface of the mountain rock. The guide informed us that in the past Khao Garos was used by Chinese and Malaysian sailors to shelter from monsoon rains. We sailed alongside the long-range mountain and towards the sea, with the canal getting wider and wider. We neared the sheer rock covered in its near entirety by trees; at the top of this huge mountain range there is a flat plateau accessible only through treacherous climbing. One of the main features of Khao Garos is a hidden lagoon surrounded by vertical cliffs and only accessible with smaller boats and in high tides. It was now my time to kayak. We stooped by a small cave, our changing base from longtail boats to kayak. A few minutes later I was paddling inside a quiet amphitheatre where the only noise was our voices amplified by echoes, and birds and cicadas singing. Around us, healthy-looking mangrove trees that constantly produce new roots; these drop from branches towards the water, eventually reaching the seabed and establishing there to give more life to forests that house a rich and complex ecosystem. The vegetation growing on rocks around us comprise rare endemic plants, including spectacular specimen of yellow Ron Tau Naree Luan Krabi orchid – the symbol of Krabi, which grow on top of the trees. Bare, strangely shaped rocks and boulders protrude from the waters. Eerie-looking rock shapes started to appear on wall faces – skulls, masks, and other undefined shapes. Sheer cliffs covered the sun rays, giving the area an infernal feel. The kayak peacefully entered the submerged cave; it was like entering another world. Stalactites of different shapes stack out of rock ceilings, and the air turned fresh and humid. Myriads of fossilised shells were encrusted on the cave suspended ceiling; the proof that sea level in Krabi was quite high in ancient times. We exited the cave and sailed alongside Khao Garos, with our guide giving us accounts of hidden caves containing treasures – quite a possibility as they could be easily camouflaged by natural features. He then pointed us to pictorials on the rock walls. One resembled a centipede, another a human-looking icon featured climbing a rope and aiming at a box at the top. This would be the hint to the place where treasure was hidden. These are the words of an ancient local poem: “Long line mountain amongst the sea, Whirl sea water as a signal, The treasure is above, Let’s take it home”. According to a local legend, a few locals who tried digging rock to find the alleged treasure heard voices screaming in the distance. The number of treasure hunters has since declined; locals now believe there is magic and spirits that harbour in the cave, and fully respect it. There are a high number of unexplored caves in Khao Garos mountain, and some of these are being researched, though funds are limited. In some of them, researchers have found pottery and human skulls dated 3,000 to 5,000 years back. We quietly returned to our departing point, most of us made speechless by the eternal beauty we experienced. Ao Luek is the cradle of civilisation in Thailand, and we were glad to have explored some of its natural features in the company of a local community. FACTFILE Khao Garos looks like an island but it is not an island – Khao: mountain, Garos: ugly Khao Garos is part of Tarnboke Koranee National Park in Ao Luek District Khao Garos is also known as Khao Yao Nam Rop: long mountain surrounded by the sea Khao Garos is home to local shells Hok Chai Teen and local orchid Ron Tau Naree Luan Krabi

The post Khao Garos kayak tour appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Our day bicycle and kayak tour with Green Discovery Laos started at their sales office in downtown Vientiane at 9am, where we met our guide for the day, Boontha, and our companions: 2 girls and 3 young guys from Denmark. The pick up truck took us to a store where we were assigned bicycles and helmets, before beginning our cycling out of the city. After a few minutes, we left behind the bustling town and the group cycled along the Mekong riverfront on a long dirt road, direction west. We pass rural areas of traditional wooden houses on stilts; behind, we could make out silhouettea of new constructions, incongruous with the rural surrounding. The views across the river into neighbouring Thailand were fantastic. The day was hot and humid. Soon after, a small problem at the saddle of one of the girls’ bikes forced us to a pit stop near an old temple with a great character, which we rushed to explore while the guide waited for the mechanic to fix the problem. This happened within 15 minutes, and we were soon on the way again, cutting off through a neighbourhood and reaching the main road at Ban Tong Pong. The cycling along the trafficked lane was better then I had thought, and after a couple of kilometers along the trafficked lane we turned right in direction countryside. The road was being widened and heavy machineries shared the space with cars, motorbikes and… with us, intrepid cyclists. As you can imagine, it was dusty and muddy and we are discouraged a bit, also due to the merciless heat that hit our heads and made us sweat copiously. But soon we entered a different world: a farming area crossed by a maze of dirt tracks running along the canal that takes water from the Mekong river, irrigating lush paddy fields. We cycled up and down pleasant hills, and enjoyed the views over the farms: cows herding, farmers working and the occasional bulldozer clearing the next plot for development. The dirt trails crossed forests and villages. This area is so close to town, yet it feels like a thousand miles away. The tour pamphlet mentioned a stop over at a waterfall, Tad Moun, which we skipped due to dry season. The guide tried to keep all of us together, a hard task since we all cycled at different pace. We soon realised we wet being followed, at a decent distance, by the support pick up. The group reunited at a road-side minimart where we bought drinks and chatted, before pedalling again for a few kilometers until, reaching another main road, we stopped for lunch. The place of choice looked like out of an old Asian movie: it was messy to say the least, and located beside a rudimental gas station. Hens roamed under the tables nibbling on anything edible, and a few locals chattered noisily, while we took seat – literally invading the place – and the guide Boontha ordered a meal of delicious pork balls noodles and sugar cane drink, which gave us the energy needed for the afternoon. The weather was hot hot hot and the thermometer touched 40 degrees. It was going to be a hard second leg of the journey. A few more kilometers of cycling under an evil heat on a newly paved road yet relatively quiet in terms of traffic, most of the section a steady downhill after the short initial slight ascent, took us to the kayak boarding point: the village of Ban Mai, where we said goodbye to our bicycles and made the transition land to water, taking a refreshing dip in the mighty Mekong. Boontha and the driver unloaded the kayaks from the truck and loaded back the bikes, then managed to get the truck stuck in the sand. This added to the sense of adventure, with the whole group participating in the freeing of the truck. After donning our lifejackets and loading paddles on each kayak, we left for the second leg of the tour downstream back to Vientiane. The inclement sun was hitting without a break, but the journey was nevertheless quite pleasant: we paddled at ease – the water is shallow this time of the year, and the wind and a gentle current were in our favour. Thailand was clearly visible on the other coast; we got warned by Boontha not to get too close to the other side or we risk passing the invisible border which is right in the middle of the river. We would not be the first tourists who get into trouble because of this. It was a great feeling being on the Mekong River, which flows from its headwaters in the Tibetan Plateau for approximately 4900 kilometers, touching China, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. I endeavoured to take in all the scenery: huge river islands, docked fishing vessels, fishermen balancing and propelling long and lean wooden boats with elongated bamboo sticks, people wearing conical hats with half their body submerged – searching with their hands for who-knows-what in the river bottom, probably shells -, and even a few women sifting the river sand panning for gold! Boontha informed us that the trip had to be cut short, stopping in an area to the north of Vientiane, just outside of town; this is normal in dry season, when the Mekong waters are so low. The starting and ending point of the kayaking part of the tour vary depending on the time of the year: in the high season, we were told, the kayaking can continue past the centre of Vientiane, ending at Ban Watnak. Cycling also gets affected: in the wet season the countryside and forested area needs to be avoided as it gets too muddy, and cycling is purely on a paved road. What a great experience we had, which ended at a concrete jetty where we parked the kayaks and waited for the truck… which did not arrive! Apparently, commented Boontha after an agitated...

The post Bicycle and kayak tour Vientiane appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Krabi, Thailand, is the perfect place to try kayaking, no matter what your skill, experience or fitness level might be. There are an abundance of waterways that are sheltered and calm to gently paddle your way down and there is no better way to take in the majestic scenery the Krabi region has to offer. Kayaking along the Srakaew river was indeed a real treat.   Klong Srakaew meanders 5km through the Khao Thong sub-district of Krabi and boasts the deepest freshwater pool in Asia. We headed out 28km from Krabi itself until we reached our destination – the base of our kayak tour operator, Long Klong Srakaew. Stepping out of our minivan, we were greeted in true Thai style by our guide for the day, who happily gave us a rundown on the history of the place whilst showing us a detailed map of the rivers, mountains and thick vegetation that the area harbours. We were then shown to our rides for the morning, the brightly coloured kayaks waiting at the river’s edge. We were equipped with lifejackets and paddles, before settling – albeit in a wobbly fashion – into our rides. We pushed off from the jetty and were soon gliding gracefully out into the middle of the river itself. The one great advantage of river kayaking over sea kayaking is that the river version is a lot gentler! This makes it a perfect activity for anyone able to get into a kayak – young or old. As we gently paddled along, we took in the incredible sights, sounds and smells of nature that enveloped us from all sides. We were dwarfed by the towering trees on either side of us, as well as the iconic limestone karsts that this area of Thailand is famous for. Bright explosions of flowers adorned the river’s edges and exotic looking birds swooped and chirped above our heads. This was amazing, and the colours were surreal! We felt like we were paddling down the Amazon River, 100 years back in time! As this is an untouched part of the world, we did have to keep our eyes peeled for the odd obstacle that included a few tree stumps and rocks that poked up out of the water. But they were easy to spot and our guide made extra sure that we gave them a wide berth in plenty of time. All too soon, we reached the end of our trail and were guided in towards the riverbank to disembark. Waiting for us were a couple of trucks to take us back to our starting point, where we would begin the second part of our day of exploration. After a delicious Thai lunch and some refreshing drinks, we set off up a dirt track to explore some of the lush jungle that surrounds the area. Heading towards the base of the mountains, we came across a small oasis of natural pools filled with cool, clear water. A perfect discovery on a hot and humid day like today! A few of us decided to make the most of them and jumped in to cool off, which was just what we needed. Our guide handed us some food for the little fish that were swimming around our bodies, and they hungrily gobbled it up. This brought squeals of delight from some members, and it was great to see so many happy faces of people enjoying the whole experience. We were enveloped by nature, and all around us we had birds singing in the trees, large butterflies dancing around our heads, crickets chirping and water gurgling. Taking a deep breath of the sweet air was invigorating to say the least! Our guide took us further until we reached the base of Sa Kongsi Mountain, where he showed us an incredible natural display of stalactites and stalagmites that have formed in the soft limestone over millennia. It’s easy to guess how this part of the world has become a favourite location for several Hollywood blockbuster movies, such as “Around the World in 80 Days” and “The Beach”, to name just a couple. I highly recommend a visit to the Srakaew cave area, where at least one hour should be dedicated. The colour of the pool of water is a weird blue, and the pool is 200 meters deep, the deepest pool in Asia! As we made our way back to the start to begin our homeward journey, we passed farms with locals working away at the rubber trees – one of the major industries in Krabi. Fascinating to see and smell, it was a lasting impression on top of everything else we had experienced that day. It was wonderfully relaxing, informative and downright fun day; kayaking along the Srakaew river is a must for anyone visiting Krabi. GETTING THERE There is hardly any reference of this area in the Krabi generic tourist maps, so I relied on the Internet to find out more. Drive from Krabi Town towards Phuket on the main road, the sign to Klong Srakaew is at about 20km out of Krabi. Turn left into that road and drive on for another 5km, then turn right on the tarmac road and follow it until you see the sign, to the right, to the kayaking area. If you are driving from Ao Nang, ask for directions to Tha Pom.

The post Kayaking along the Srakaew river appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

The day looked quite dull when I awoke, a real change from the previous sunny and humid week I had just spent in Sarawak, in the lush Malaysian Borneo. I showered and realized the time would not be enough for breakfast so I made my way to the Paradesa Borneo Discovery office, located near the Kuching waterfront area, where I met my two kayaking companions, two young British girls on a Malaysia backpacking tour. We were ready for our kayaking in the Sarawak River Tour. James the driver turned up at 8,30, we made introductions and we were soon on our way on his brand new Chinese-made14-seater minivan. James is a kind middle aged man of Chinese origins, talkative and friendly. He suggested stopping in an eatery to have breakfast, a suggestion that I happily embraced! The sun was timidly attempting a feeble appearance from behind a curtain of black clouds as we sat and ordered coffee and fried dough from a food stand in a residential area on the outskirts of town, a welcome respite for my hungry belly. The drive that followed was smooth; the road was flanked by lush vegetation and the traffic was scarce. James stopped at the Semangoh Wildlife Center to pick up a family of four from the USA taking part in the tour before heading towards hilly Padawan, an area where Bidayu tribes live. There the limestone mountains get higher, with impressive pointed peaks. James told us that we were so close to the border with Indonesia that trekkers can easily find themselves in a different country without even realizing it. Wow, I thought. These valleys are densely cultivated: bananas, ferns, tapioca, corn, sloped paddies, fruit orchards. Villagers from this area are economically productive and depends mainly on agriculture, selling their produce at the local weekend markets. At the village of Semadang – a few wooden houses with tin roofs, a catholic church, a school, and all around cultivated fields – we picked up Biko our guide for the day. James drove another 10 minutes along a road sided by plantations of dragon fruit, pepper and rubber, the main cash crops in this area, before reaching Kampong Benoh, our starting point for this kayak expedition. We got geared up with lifejackets, dry-bags and paddles, received a briefing on how to maneuver the kayak and walked down a path to the small river below, where the water was quite shallow due to the dry season. I was assigned a single kayak, and while the other customers seated on their vessels, I got quite worried of the small size of the stream, only to reassure myself after a few meters when we reached the main river, the Sarawak Kiri, which means ‘left’. This tributary joins the Sarawak Kanan – ‘right’ – downriver to become Sungai Sarawak, or Sarawak River, an important source of water and transportation for the inhabitants of southwest Sarawak. I paddled nonchalantly as we passed a few small rapids; we negotiated small whirlpools, avoiding logs sticking out of the water. The kayaks bumped into rocks and occasionally got stuck in sandy banks, where we had to get off and push it out into deeper water. I looked up at huge and tall durian trees with spiky fruits, observing the clouds building up and eventually discharging a wall of water that caught us unprepared. The alternate bursts of heavy rain forced me to take refuge under the thick canopy of trees and overhanging bamboos growing along the river bank, more than anything to ensure my camera did not get wet. I motioned the group to paddle forward and stopped a while to listen to the sound of nature, to smell the vegetation and to enjoy the silence. Nature is at its best when it rains so I did not mind getting wet. The sky finally opened up a little, I rejoined the group and we soon stopped for a break, parking the kayaks in a sandy beach that marks the entrance of the Bidayu village of Kampung Danu. Women picked veggies from the gardens and dogs roamed freely as we approached the local house where we had our lunch: kolo mee noodles, chicken on rice, curry puffs and juicy pineapple and yellow watermelon. A well deserved meal after all the padding. Kampung Danu is home to 300 people and has recently won the price for the ‘Best Dayak Village’ in the area. Its villagers depend mainly on agriculture, while earning a bit from tourism as well. From here it is in fact possible to arrange activities such as rafting, fishing and visiting the nearby caves, and they even have a very picturesque suspension bridge crossing the Sarawak Kiri river. On to the second leg of the journey we endured more rain, saw a baby monitor lizard on the shore, marveled at amazing rock formations and had another break. We then paddled past some kids swimming naked and Biko informed we were pretty near the ending point, though the black menacing clouds that had been approaching from behind did not give us enough time: the sky opened when we were at only 200m from arrival. The rain was so think and violent that paddling in itself was an issue, let alone keeping the eyes opened. The rive current got stronger and the full force of nature was against us, soaking us wet and making us struggle to paddle the last 50 meters. At the jetty, the staff was there to help us disembark our kayaks and lead us to a parking area where James was waiting with his minivan. We felt cold and exhausted but happy: we all looked at each other and you could tell there was a satisfaction feeling at having been at one with nature, nearly powerless against it, and at having reached destination safely. Rain or sunshine, dry or wet season, if you are in Kuching and have a day to spare, do try this amazing experience: you will not be disappointed and...

The post Kayaking in the Sarawak River appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

When I embarked on a longtail boat tour of Bor Thor, drawn by the allure of ancient caves and the legend of the Big Headed Ghost, I anticipated shielding myself from the scorching Krabi sun. However, on the appointed day, the sun was the least of my concerns. Instead, I was greeted by a somber, overcast morning, with rain persisting so relentlessly that at the Bor Thor pier, nestled in the Ao Luk northern district of Krabi, Thailand, even the local vendors’ stalls were ensconced in muddy surroundings, rendering sampling their fare impossible. Boarding a traditional longtail boat, we navigated through canals flanked by islands cloaked entirely in mangrove swamps. Our guide enlightened us about this remarkable ecosystem, dominated by millions of mangrove tree roots protruding from the water due to insufficient air in the mud, and the intricate food chain within such forests. Mangroves not only furnish nutrients for resident animals and microorganisms but also act as a natural filter for the Marui River, trapping sediments from the upstream villages. The reverberating noise of our boat’s engine resonated amidst the labyrinth of mangrove tree trunks, while towering limestone formations surrounded us, their verdant hues juxtaposed only by the vibrant canoes and kayaks, manned by tourists clad in equally colourful raincoats. Fifteen minutes later, we disembarked in front of a staircase leading to the entrance of Tham Phi Hua To, a marine section of the Tharnboke Koranee National Park. Situated 3.5 meters above sea level, the cave comprises two expansive interconnected chambers. It is believed to have served as a burial or ceremonial site for a prehistoric cave-dwelling community, dating back 2,000 to 3,000 years, evidenced by the discovery of human skulls within. These ancient inhabitants subsisted primarily on natural resources for sustenance and shelter. Adorning the area just above the entrance, we encountered the impeccably preserved painting of the Big Headed Ghost—a slender, hunched figure with a disproportionately large head, two antennae, a beak, a mantel-like covering enveloping its form, and protrusions emerging from its pelvic region. Crafted with henna, this pictograph has spawned a legend, alleging that the Big Headed Ghost, once a terrorizing presence, still haunts the cave, guarding its enigma and essence. Embarking on our exploration, we traversed the first chamber, replete with millennia-old stalactites and stalagmites, while a musty fragrance hung in the air. Adorning the walls were over a hundred paintings, partially preserved despite the ravages of time and climate. These primitive depictions, some rudimentary in nature, were rendered using henna, clay, and other natural pigments, illustrating people, marine life, tools, and vignettes of daily existence. Notably, the paintings varied in elevation, a testament to the fluctuating water levels both inside and outside the cave, which would rise during high tides, compelling inhabitants to seek refuge on higher cave floors, where they crafted these artworks during periods of respite. The abundance of ancient pictographs adorning the upper grotto walls corroborates this hypothesis. Ascending to the north chamber, we were treated to a panoramic vista of mangroves, limestone formations, and the meandering waterways below. Upon returning to the longtail boat, we embarked on an exhilarating journey through Tahm Lod Tai, a cave nestled beneath a limestone hill, characterized by narrow passageways. Laden with awe-inspiring stalactites and stalagmites, this cave is navigable only during low tide. Our boat glided serenely through the cavern, affording us ample time to silently marvel at this marvel of nature. As we disembarked at the Bor Thor pier, the rain had abated, and though the air retained a crisp chill, shards of sunlight pierced through the overcast sky. Descending carefully from the boat, we made our way to a riverside floating raft adorned with a thatched roof, serving as a restaurant where our lunch awaited. I found immense pleasure in this meticulously organized and pleasantly adventurous tour, replete with delightful surprises at every turn.

The post Longtail boat tour of Bor Thor – in search of the Big Headed Ghost appeared first on Asian Itinerary.