The world’s third largest island of Borneo has an exotic and adventurous image with its impenetrable rainforests supporting a multitude of amazing plants and animals. Borneo is home to the two East Malaysian states of Sabah and Sarawak, Indonesian Kalimantan and the oil rich sultanate of Brunei. Sandakan, just two-hour’s flight from Kuala Lumpur or forty minutes flight from the state capital of Kota Kinabalu, appeals to travellers who want to get close to nature. Visitors can’t do this in Sandakan itself but the city is the base for regional wildlife excursions to various natural areas. Seeing Orang Utans at Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre on the outskirts of the city is the most accessible attraction while the dedicated will want to explore more remote areas.

Sandakan POW memorial

Sandakan’s city centre is worth visiting despite many of its historic buildings being destroyed by allied bombers near the end of World War II. After the war, Sandakan ceased to be the state capital and it moved to what was then called Jesselton but now Kota Kinabalu. Another grim reminder of the war is the Sandakan Memorial Park situated on the former Tamba Rimba Prisoner of War Camp on the outskirts of the city. The notorious camp is infamously known as the place where the ‘Death March’ commenced.

This cruel exercise ended in Ranau with just six survivors from 2,434 prisoners who were forced by the Japanese through the jungle until few remained. Tucked away in the hills surrounding the port city is the home of one of the colony’s best known authors, Agnes Keith. It was here that she who wrote the book, Land below the Wind. Also located in the lofty heights of Trig Hill are several of the city’s leading tourist attractions. Puu Jih Shih Buddhist Temple on the summit above Tanah Merah shines in the early morning light. Built in 1987, it’s a dazzling red and gold structure adorned with threatening dragons and swastikas.

Sandakan Central Market is one of Malaysia’s most colourful markets due to the presence of many local ethnic groups as well as itinerant Filipino and Indonesian workers. Some of these people live in one of several water villages that extend into Sandakan Bay.

One of the Sandakan forest inhabitants

The city’s main attraction is the Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre located in virgin forest at Sepilok on the outskirts of Sandakan. It was established in 1964 to rehabilitate once captive or orphaned Orang Utans and viewing platforms provide an excellent location observe and photograph the animals in their natural setting. Visitors need to appreciate that Sepilok has been established to save and rehabilitate animals and that it is nota zoo. Three kilometres away, the Rainforest Discovery Centre is another area that is attracts visitors especially for its elevated rainforest canopy walkway high above the forest floor.

Rainforest Discovery Centre map

Sighting animals is always difficult in the rainforest for many reasons but mostly be- cause many animals are small and camouflaged. Sepilok’s forests are home to many bird species and if the canopy signage is any indication, it is birds that you will mostly see here. However, you need to be very patient and, if possible, seek assistance through using binoculars. Many birds are most active at dawn and dusk so unless you can organize your visit at similar times, do not be too disappointed if you just see distant movement. Keen birdwatchers from around the globe flock to Borneo to get a glimpse of some 54 endemic species that call Borneo home.

Turtle Island National Park

Further afield, it is possible to visit Turtle Island National Park and get close to turtles laying eggs. Back on land, the Kinabatangan River, centered on the village of Sukau, is two hours’ drive from Sandakan. The land adjoining the river sup- ports Malaysia’s largest forest-covered floodplain with most nature tours being focused on cruising along the Menanggol River. The brown waters of the Menanggol are only 30 meters wide and surrounded by a dense canopy of emergent trees and vines. Travelling up the river is like passing through a tunnel deep within the forest. Wildlife concentration here is probably one of the highest in Malaysia with the main attraction being Proboscis Monkeys who live in the riverine trees. From the comfort of small boats, visitors enter the monkeys’ habitat and, if lucky, observe them swinging from branch to branch. Found only on Borneo, the Proboscis Monkey is easily identifiable by its distinctive large red nose. The river is also a haven for monkeys, macaques, gibbons, crocodiles, civet cats, otters and an extensive bird list including hornbills.

Eating

English Teahouse entrance

Sandakan’s English Tea House and Restaurant could easily be the setting for a Somerset Maugham novel as diners can reminisce about the colonial past while dining on superb food and good wines in a magical setting. There are two dining options here – inside or under a garden gazebo overlooking a croquet green. Bermuda grass, the stuff you want to roll across, has been laid for the croquet green – yes, this is truly one of the last outposts of the Empire. Not surprisingly, English dishes dominate the house specialties – Shepherd’s pie, roast beef and, bangers and mash. For those who crave lo- cal cuisine, try the Borneo chicken curry and Tea House tandoori. The restaurant specializes in deliciously and unashamedly fresh scones, clotted cream and jam for morning or afternoon tea.

Text & Images By David Bowden

Published in Dreamcatcher Magazine, January/February edition 2017. Read online or download the pdf online for free HERE ! 

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Renowned as a historical city, Malacca is recognized as the smallest state in Malaysia. According to history, Malacca was founded by Parameswara who was a Srivijaya nobleman from Palembang who ruled Malacca between 1400 and 1424. Legend wants Malacca to be named after the fruit-bearing Malacca tree (in Malay, Pokok Melaka) under which Parameswara took shelter during an unusual incident: according to the Malay Annals, legend has it that the king saw a mouse deer outwitting his hunting dog into the water when he was resting under the Malacca tree. He thought this boded well, remarking, ‘this place is excellent, even the mouse deer is formidable; it is best that we establish a kingdom here’. Today, the mouse deer is part of modern Malacca’s coat of arms.

The author in Malacca

Parameswara’s kingdom lasted for 110 years before falling, in 1511, to the Portuguese under the leadership of Alfonso de Albuquerque. Malacca was a strategic base under the Portuguese for 130 years before falling into the hands of The Netherlands in 1641. However, the Dutch government in Malacca did not last long as they were more interested in Indonesia, and due to this, they handed over Malacca to the British through the British-Dutch alliance in 1824.

Between 1826 and 1867, Malacca was ruled by the British East India Company before became a British Colony. Afterwards, in 1946, it became one of Straits settlement, together with Singapore and Penang. After all, following the dissolution of the colony, Malacca became part of a Malaya Union before it became Malaysia in 1963 with the entry of Borneo’s Sabah and Sarawak. Thanks to its long history, Malacca was declared a historic city in 1989 by Malaysia‘s fourth Prime Minister, Tun Dr. Mahathir Mohammad.

With this interesting history, Malacca should be placed as one of the must visit destinations in your list, and this is because Malacca is not only rich in historical values, and especially the historical buildings left by each kingdom that ruled the state, but also rich in traditions, culture and food.

Walking to St Paul Hill

Believe it or not, visiting Malacca is like travelling back to the past and have a glimpse at the city’s golden age. Today, when we talk about Malacca, we list plenty of places to visit, places that will feed your travel hunger and your historical instincts.

Let me recommend a few Malacca attractions to those who are keen to visit this amazing city.

A visit to Malacca must include A Famosa, known as Porta de Santiago. This is a Portuguese fortress that was built in 1511 and it is one of the oldest surviving European architectural remains in Asia. It is located in the middle of Malacca, downhill of St. Paul’s Church, which is now only a crumbling whitewashed gatehouse. At the beginning, the Portuguese built the fortress to defend the city against foreign invasion. It is believed that Alfonso used 1,500 slaves to construct it.

St Paul Cathedral

Apart from A Famosa, you can also visit Christ Church. The building is easy to access and easy to spot thanks to its pinkish color. The building was made out of red-brick in 1753 to celebrate a century of Dutch occupation. Also located in the middle of town, Christ Church is indeed a very popular destinations in Malacca. This area is where the extensively decorated trishaw park offering their fares. Try them if you want to have the real Malacca feel.

Along the way, you will also encounter St. Paul Hill, also known as Malacca Hill. This hill connects you to the summit of St. Paul’s Church through the stairs provided. Originally, this church was built by Portuguese nobleman Captain Duarte Coelho to express his gratitude to the Virgin Mary for saving his life during a storm at sea. It is for this that that the original structure was called Nossa Senhora da Annunciada (Our Lady of the Grace). Even though some of it has been in ruins due to time decay, it is still standing proudly on the hill. Inside the ruins of St. Paul Church is a decaying stone interior, tombstones belonging to Dutch nobility including that of Pedro Martins, and tombstones of five members of the Velge family who died within 20 days of each other during the diphtheria epidemic of 1756. Right opposite the church is a marble statue of St. Francis Xavier, built in 1953, and from the church you can have a great view of Malacca. Walking downhills, you will find plenty of souvenir stalls.

Maritime Museum Complex

Not far from St. Paul Church is the Malacca Maritime Museum Complex, a replica of the Flor de la Mar, a Portuguese ship that sank off the coast of Malacca on its way back to Portugal. This complex consists of a sailing vessel, a museum of the maritime history of Malacca and a museum of Malaysia‘s post-independence naval forces. Opened to public since 1994, this museum can be visited from 9:00 am to 5:30pm Monday to Friday, and 9:00am to 9:00pm during weekends.

Taming Sari Tower, known as Menara Taming Sari, is the first and only gyro tower in Malaysia. This tower has started its operations in April 2008. With its height of 110 meters, this tower is capable to offer a 360-degree panoramic view of Malacca town and beyond.

Malacca River Cruise

The tower was named after the mythical weapon Keris Taming Sari, said to possess mystical powers by Malay legendary warrior Hang Tuah. It is for this reason that the tower structure’s design follows the shape of the keris, with the peak of the tower resembling its hilt. I was amongst the 80 passengers that were taken in the tower for about 7 minutes and I can say it was the best experience ever. I love the scenery the Taming Sari Tower offers. For those who will try this attraction, do not forget to take your camera along.

Have you ever wondered how it feels to be on an Italian gondola? The Malacca River Cruise along the Malacca Strait sails for 45-minutes and gives you just that. The river cruise took us to Kampung Morten, past Malacca town and the many settlements and bridges along the riverbanks.

I also had the chance to walk along Jonker Street to witness myself the beauty of the architectural heritage of the various kingdoms who have ruled Malacca. Amongst the relics that caught my eyes was Baba and Nyonya heritage. In the past, Jonker Street was recognized as the antiques centre street of Chinatown. As time has passed by, it has turned into an area for clothing and crafts outlets as well as restaurants. However, the best part of it for me was the night market, which operates every Friday and Saturday night.

And how did Malacca get its name?

Located not far from Taming Sari Tower there is a park where a collection of old means of transport no longer in use, from bullock carts to trains and airplanes, are exposed. If you admire means of transport from different eras, this is the place you must visit.

A few steps away from St. Paul Church is the Dutch Governor’s Museum – Muzium Yang Di-Pertua Negeri – which was formerly the house of the Dutch Governor of Melaka, built somewhere in 1641. This museum displays various artifacts, personal items, portraits, costumes and other official regalia of the Melakan Governors from the Dutch times to present. The building opens to public daily except Monday from 9:00 am to 5:30 pm. Admission fee for this museum is 5 Malaysian Ringgit for adults and 2 Malaysian Ringgit for children.

The Dutch Governor Museum

Visiting Malacca’s amazing tourist attractions will not be enough. I encourage you to indulge on local delicacies like chicken meat balls on rice, a delicious dish with an amazing taste. Walk along Jonker Street and you will find it in plenty of eateries. And for those keen to try Portuguese signature dishes, don’t hesitate to visit the Portuguese Settlement, located a couple of kilometers outside of Malacca city centre, in an area known as Ujong Pasir. It is home to a small community of around 1,000 people who descend from early Portuguese settlers. The famous food there is seafood, I had the devil curry, which I found mesmerizing.

This is all I can share about Malacca for now. Enjoy your trip to this amazing town!

For the version in ITALIAN language of this article, click HERE!

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