Why Cycle the Shimanami Kaido?

The Shimanami Kaido Cycling Road is one of Japan’s most spectacular outdoor adventures, stretching 70 kilometers across the Seto Inland Sea. Connecting Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture to Imabari in Ehime Prefecture, the route takes cyclists over seven impressive suspension bridges linking six islands. Unlike many cycling routes, it offers a seamless mix of natural beauty, cultural encounters, and world-class infrastructure, making it a must-do for both beginners and experienced riders.

Designated as part of Japan’s National Cycling Routes, the Shimanami Kaido is well marked with the distinctive Yahane Blue Line. Cyclists can expect smooth roads, plentiful rental options, and friendly “Cycle Oasis” rest stops offering bike racks, refreshments, and maps.

👉 For official travel information, visit the Shimanami Kaido Tourism Official Website.

Highlights of the Route

🚴 Easy Navigation and Bike Rentals

The course is designed with cyclists in mind:

• A blue line guides you the entire way.

• Bicycle rentals are available at both ends (Onomichi & Imabari), with one-way return options.

• Online reservations are possible, even in English, via Shimanami Rental Cycle.

🌉 Cycling Over Seven Bridges

One of the most thrilling aspects is the feeling of flying over the sea as you ride across bridges like the Tatara Bridge and Kurushima-Kaikyō Bridge, marvels of modern engineering. Each island offers its own character, from bustling fishing villages to quiet coastal trails.

🏯 History and Culture Along the Way

• Onomichi – Famous for its hillside temples, retro shopping streets, and artistic vibe.

• Ikuchijima Island – Home to Kosanji Temple, an ornate complex inspired by Kyoto’s Byodoin Temple.

• Innoshima – Features Innoshima Suigun Castle, linked to the legendary Murakami Pirates.

• Imabari – Known for Imabari Castle and traditional towel-making culture.

🍜 Food & Local Flavors

Cyclists can refuel with Setouchi specialties such as:

• Fresh seafood dishes, including octopus and sea bream.

• Citrus treats from local orchards, especially mikan oranges and lemon-based desserts.

• Casual noodle shops and cozy cafés overlooking the sea.

When to Go

The best seasons to cycle are spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November), when the weather is mild and the views are clear. Avoid the rainy season (late June–July) and peak summer, when heat and humidity can be challenging.

Practical Details

• Length: 70 km

• Duration: Around 6 hours (casual pace with breaks)

• Elevation Gain: Minimal (approx. 20m)

• Recommended: 1–2 days for a relaxed experience with sightseeing stops.

Access to the Shimanami Kaido

Shimanami Kaido cycling route

Starting Point – Onomichi

• Fly from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport to Hiroshima Airport (80 min).

• Take the Hiroshima Airport Line, then transfer to the Sanyo Line to JR Onomichi Station (~1 hr).

End Point – Imabari

• Imabari is accessible by train from Matsuyama or via the Shinkansen through Okayama.

Where to Stay

Accommodation ranges from luxury seaside resorts to budget-friendly guesthouses and traditional ryokan with onsen baths. Staying overnight on one of the islands allows you to enjoy stunning sunsets and quiet mornings before resuming your ride.

Final Thoughts

The Shimanami Kaido Cycling Road is more than just a bike ride — it’s a journey through Japan’s maritime culture, history, and landscapes. Whether you complete the route in one day or take it slow across several, you’ll find that every island has its own story to tell.

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Farming panorama

I had been told by a fellow traveler that the best way to escape the hustle of town and at the same time discover the magic of rural Bali was to go on the ever-popular Bali eco educational cycling tour by Bali Eco Tours. This tour is advertised in their website as the “original and authentic eco/educational cycling tour, designed to take visitors to Bali away from the tourist areas and show them the Bali they want to see”…

Receptionist at SenS Hotel & Spa Ubud

The tour started early in the day; after being picked up at my hotel in Ubud, the SenS Hotel & Spa, the minivan whizzed towards the mountains while Wuh our guide, a nice middle-aged man from Ubud, explained the program of the day to our group of four. Right behind us were the two support trucks with our bicycles on their loading back area.

A cracker seller driving along the main road

The driver used shortcuts in order to avoid the morning traffic on the main road, and in doing so he gave us the chance to experience local Balinese life in the local villages we passed: shops were opening up, women in traditional ceremonial dresses walked to amazing local temples with trays full of veggies and fruits carefully balanced over their heads, men worked in the rice paddies and kids played happily in neat and tidy home gardens. Inside garages and porches, massive Ogoh-ogoh monsters were being prepared for the upcoming Nyepi Festival (2017 date is 28th March – http://asianitinerary.com/nyepi-day-in-bali/), and at the front of their shops, crossed-legged artisans carved amazing wooden articrafts.

Rice terraces at Tegallagang

We had a first stop to visit the area of Tegallagang, with its ethnic population, articrafts, rice terraces and majestic views over the rice fields, and as the weather got worse and the dark sky started to discharge small drizzle drops, we proceeded towards Kintamani, a village on the western edge of the caldera wall of Mount Batur.

The road got less and less busy as we climbed up the high hills, and the air turned fresh. At the roadside, dozens of simple wood and bamboo offered sold fruits neatly adjusted in pyramid shapes on the shelves. We finally reached the restaurant in Penelokan, Kintamani, where we had our breakfast of sweet black rice pudding and local coffee. From the perched up terrace, we enjoyed fascinating views over Mount Batur and its crater lake, both enveloped by low clouds. This is supposed to be one of the most stunning views in Bali.

KIntamani, view of Mount Batur

Mount Batur, an active volcano located at the center of two concentric calderas, and its lake are now part of the Batur Global Geopark, one of UNESCO single, unified geographical areas where sites and landscapes of international geological significance are managed with a holistic concept of protection, education and sustainable development. The park has an entrance fee of IDR 15,000 (about 1,5 US$). Our guide Wuh entertained us with lots of information on the volcanoes and the lake: we got to learn about the goddess of rice and about the Bali Aga people , as well as dates of the most recent Batur eruptions. Wuh is a great entertainer and his culturally rich stories of nature, people and spirituality became an important part of the tour, I must say.

The process of coffee making

The following stop was a visit to a Balinese coffee plantation, one of several that have mushroomed up in the area thanks to a surge in eco-agro-tourism. We followed Wuh to an amazing garden of various species of plants and tropical fruits growing in their natural environment, and he explained all their medicinal and culturally important uses. The process of making coffee was also quite interesting, and so was the story of the civet cat called Luwak and his involvement in producing one of the most expensive coffees in the world. READ ABOUT IT HERE !  Next was a sampling of local herbal teas and coffees before we continued the drive to a parking lot where the assistants were preparing our bikes.

Local farmer harvesting the rice

We were given helmets, a few instructions on signals and cyclist recommended behaviour in Bali, and we started riding downhill. Riding the mountain bike through the heartland of Bali, travelling on non tourist, back roads and minor village roads with little traffic – the only obstacles being potholes and dogs crossing roads – was good fun. The scenery was fantastic: we cycled past stunning rice paddy panoramas where villagers were seen planting and harvesting the crop, we saw plantations full of Balinese staples and cash crops like cloves, coffee, cocoa, vanilla, tapioca, taro, local vegetables and exotic tropical fruits, and lots of Balinese children calling out ‘hellos’. Each village had an amazing temple made up of stones covered in moss, and surrounded by lots of vegetation.

Huge spiders crawling all over us

We made numerous stops during the ride:

• At a lush garden by the roadside, we got to handle huge spiders which are not poisonous, still it was eerie having these things crawl all over us…
• We marveled at an enormous Banyan tree.
• We stopped at a Balinese home/compound, where we got to see first hand how the Balinese everyday life is like, and were we received Wuh wealth of information on habits and lifestyle of the locals. Priceless.

To have an experienced and knowledgeable guide who gives an in depth explanation of their amazing culture and of the relationship the Balinese have with their beautiful island is a real treat.

25 km later, we reached the pick up point. We dropped the bicycles and boarded the minivan again for the journey to a local restaurant set in the serene surrounds, where we enjoyed a delectable Balinese feast and views, once again, over rice paddies.

Bali Eco Tour guide Mr Wuh

This has been for me the best value tour in This has been for me the best value tour in Bali. I appreciated all the detailed information the guide offered, as well as the great organization and safety level from Bali Eco Tours, with one support car in the front and one in the back, and guides and assistant riders with lots of attention to details.

It was a remarkable day; Wuh was friendly, funny and informative, and the bikes were not the latest models but were well-maintained and great for the tour (Bali Eco Tours have a park of 250 bicycles, I was told). I like to describe the Bali eco educational cycling tour as both an adventure and a cultural, ecological, learning and culinary experience!

No wonder this tour is now promote

Cycling alongside local villages

d in every guide book on Bali/Indonesia – the Lonely Planet Guide Books on Bali, Indonesia and Best of Bali, The Rough Guide Book to Bali, The Natural Guide to Bali and numerous French, German and Dutch guide books – and it has been consistently voted the best tour in Bali.

The cycling part of the tour is 90% downhill, meaning you can enjoy the views while appreciating a constant breeze and without a great deal of physical exertion.

The Bali eco educational cycling tour includes:

• Pick up and return to your hotel by A/C car.
• Mountain bike and safety helmet.
• Breakfast and lunch.
• Ample water and fruits on tour.
• Entrance fees and wet weather gear (if needed).
• Cold face towels after your ride.

BALI ECO CYCLING

PT. Bali Budaya Tours, Jln. Raya Pengosekan, Peliatan, Ubud, Bali

Tel: 081 337 420 420 – If ringing from a mobile phone or outside of Bali dial +62 (0)361 97 5557. Inquire about Bali Eco Tour programs via email at baliecocycling@gmail.com or check out their booking calendar by following the links below to see what tours are already running: http://www.baliecocycling.com/cycling-tour/

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Village eco walk

Bali Eco Cycling, part of Bali Eco Tours, was established in 1999 with the intention of creating tours that offer a unique and rewarding experience to Bali visitors. Bali Eco Tours take visitors away from the tourist circuits and show them the Bali they want to see – the real Bali. Not just the beautiful sceneries, but also a hands-on experience of typical Balinese daily life and a feel for the magic and spirit of this stunning island, its beautiful people and its vibrant culture. Whether on a mountain bike gliding down on quiet country lanes from Kintamani to Ubud, trekking to Mount Agung or trekking through Bali jungle. Sharing their island is their passion, so Bali Eco Cycling are proud to offer a wide range of tours/activities to discerning Bali visitors, for a stay in Bali that is both enjoyable and memorable.

Mount Batur sunrise trek

The Bali Eco Tours concept remains that of being eco-friendly. To them, this means caring about the bottom line: for a business to be sustainable, it must strive to balance its duty of care to people and the environment with profit. Bali Eco Tours is a company that set off on the right path to be environmental friendly, cultural friendly and indigenous friendly, a unique phenomenon amongst Bali rampant tourism growth. They continue to work hard to give their guests real value-for-money experiences and provide opportunities to experience the real Bali without the hassle, hustle and bustle. Their guests discover more than the superficial beauty of Bali island: they have an adventure and at the same time learn through first-hand experience.

Eco cycling tour bikes

Bali Eco Tours do their best to reduce carbon footprints while educating their staff, their partners, the communities they work in as well as their honored guests, inviting all of them to join on a journey towards environment stewardship together.

Bali Eco Tours limit the number of people they accept on their tours on each day to ensure every guest has a quality time. Their staff love doing their jobs well, they take real pride in their achievements, and Bali Eco Tours would rather suggest guests book on another day than overcrowd any of the tours.

Ubud cycling tour

To cater to different needs and fitness levels, they continue to come up with variations on their products, especially on the Cycling Tour and Mt Batur Trek. They also remain flexible to requests for tailored tours to suit their guests.

As there has been a few copycats trying to use the Bali Eco concepts, ideas and even the name, when booking a Bali Eco Tours tour, please ensure you are definitely booked with Bali Eco Tours. The guide picking you up should wear a bright blue t-shirt with Bali Eco Tours logo on his chest and www.baliecocycling.com on the back of the t-shirt.

Cycling downhill

Bali Eco Tours offer a professional and well-trained team, international standards of safety and hygiene, and a warmth and genuine desire to please their guests.

Bali Eco Tours Special Promotion for 2017

• U3: What do you get if you take Ubud to the Power of Three? You have a special combination of their Ubud Fun Orientation Tour (including hands reflexology, neck & shoulders massage), their Rice Field and Village Exploration Walk (including feet reflexology and legs massage), and their Mt Batur Summit, Swim and Spa (full body massage) on three separate days, all for a single special price!
• 

  Funny guide Mr Wuh

  A2: Do you want an Adventure or many Adventures? So little time, so much to do? This package allows you to combine their Mt Batur Sunrise & Swim with their popular full day Bali Eco Cycling Tour all in one day for a very special price!

• F3: Lets have Fun For all the Family! They provide a special rate so you can take all the family on their popular Bali Eco Cycling Tour for a family of 4 (typically 2 adults + 2 children) or a family of 5 (2 adults + 3 children). With this package, even the teenagers get the discounted children rate. Bali Eco Tours love families (and families love them!) – this is the best rate for their tours.

Assistant guide

To obtain the above special rates, contact Bali Eco Tours via email or phone quoting the name of the package in the subject line (U3, A2 or F3) – don’t forget to provide them with your pick up location and contact details! They will need to be able to reach you on the day of the pick up (local phone or Whatsapp number preferred).

PT. Bali Budaya Tours (Bali Eco Cycling)

Jln. Raya Pengosekan, Peliatan, Ubud, Bali

Telephone: 081 337 420 420 – If ringing from a mobile phone or outside of Bali dial +62 (0)361 97 5557.

Inquire about Bali Eco Tour programs via email at baliecocycling@gmail.com or check out their booking calendar by following the links below to see what tours are already running: http://www.baliecocycling.com/cycling-tour/

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Tegallagang rice terraces

The next day I headed towards the central foothills of Bali. I drove along the magnificent and very convenient Bali Mandara Toll Road, a 13km bridge road over the water that stretches across the Gulf of Benoa, preventing traffic jams in the Jalan By Pass Ngurah Rai, which was the only connection to the south of the airport and to the Sanur and hills areas. A mere IDR 11,000 (about 1 US$) saved me a long traffic queue, and projected my Toyota to the plains first, with their stunning palms, frangipanis and amazing vegetation, an area where artisans work the stones and the wood, carving them magnificently; and later to the terraced rice paddies, small farms and dense forest that surround the town of Ubud. Considered to be the artistic and spiritual center of Bali, with the times Ubud has engulfed 13 of the villages that surrounded it, becoming a town of 0ver 30000 people. Ubud is also home to the world-known BaliSpirit Festival !

Woman entering a Ubud temple for ceremony offerings

I checked myself in at the SenS Hotel & Spa – www.senshotelsresorts.com -, a boutique hotel in downtown Ubud, located within walking distance to the major attractions in town. It was indeed a great choice, as it was convenient, comfortable and indulgent at the same time, and a great value for money. BOOK A DISCOUNTED ROOM AT SENS HOTEL AND SPA, CLICK HERE !

I spent the afternoon checking out the hundreds of stalls at the Ubud market and the myriad of boutique shops, art galleries, restaurants and coffee shops that dot the area around the Hanuman Road, and I had a great time with primates at the very popular Monkey Forest – entrance fee IDR 40,000 (about 3.50 US$) – http://www.monkeyforestubud.com – a spiritual and conversation center for Ubud, submerged in 12.5 hectares of dense forest that 186 species of trees and around 700 monkeys call home.

Live music at Bali Bohemia

I then enjoyed an evening Balinese dance performance – a must-do in Ubud including a Legong and  Barong – 90 minutes show – entrance IDR 100,000 (about 8 US$) – at the Ubud Royal Palace, one of the most prominent places in Ubud, located right on the main road.

I ended my long day with a yummy dinner of Indonesian favourite food at Yonne Café and Bar, SenS Hotel & Spa poolside signature elegant restaurant, which serves up international favourites and the best of Balinese and Asian cuisine prepared in a vibrant show kitchen. At Yonne Café you have the choice to eat in air-conditioned comfort or al fresco, and it is opened 24 hours!

outdoor biking with Bali Eco Cycling

The second day in Ubud took me to a very interested Bali eco educational cycling tour with Bali Eco Cycling – www.baliecocycling.com – a company  providing authentic eco-educational cycling tours since 1999. I loved the passion both owners Komang and wife and the guides put in their mission to please discerning Bali visitors. Their full-day downhill  tour allowed me to escape the Ubud hustle and to discover the magic of rural Bali, as well as to  have an amazing day out in the nature. The first stop was at the mesmerizing rice terraces of Tegallagang. We then had breakfast at the family restaurant in a terrace overlooking Kintamani village, active volcano Mount Batur, Mount Agung and Lake Batur was a plus!

SenS Resort aerial photo

After a nice shower and a swim and relaxation time at SenS Hotel & Spa swimming pool area, I went out for a stroll and along the way, right on the main road, I was drawn by a consistent knocking, like a door shutting in the wind: Bang Bang Bang… I followed the noise and entered Oka Kartini Bed & Breakfast, where a traditional shadow puppet performance was underway. A shadow puppet show is one of the Balinese traditional favourites of visitors to Ubud, and I was lucky it was Sunday, since performances only run three times a week: Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, starting at 8 pm – 1 hour show – entrance IDR 100,000 (about 8 US$). I was a bit late, and also did not understand a word since the story is told in Sanskrit, but I still enjoyed the theatre feel, the action and the humor.

traditional shadow puppet performers

I have read online comments of people who found the performance expensive, or boring. Well, the group of talented artists work for a full hour, reciting and playing and moving the puppets, and these expert artists do their best to present this traditional art form in a digestible way to tourists, so, still a good value, and a nice way to spend a cultural hour while in Ubud.

Dinner was once again at Yonne Café and Bar, SenS Hotel & Spa signature restaurant, where this time I dined on a great pizza 4 stagioni washed down by a beer, a special offer at IDR 100,000 (about 8 US$) NET!

Driving along Bali Mandara

I had a drink and enjoyed live music at the Bali Bohemia – www.balibohemia.com – located at the south entrance of Monkey Forest, then returned to the hotel. Bed came as a relief, after two days of no stop activities in Ubud.

TO BE CONTINUED… STAY TUNED !

A drive around Bali – Part 1 – the south

A drive around Bali – Part 3 – Bedugul lake and valley

A drive around Bali – Part 4 – scenic Munduk

A drive around Bali – Part 5 – the North coast

A drive around Bali – Part 6 – the West coast

The Toyota Agya was kindly supplied by Echo Bali Car Rental

BOOK A DISCOUNTED ROOM AT SENS HOTEL AND SPA, CLICK HERE !

The post A drive around Bali – Part 2 – Ubud, hills and mountains appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Jimbaran beach

Bali is a stunning island with plenty of amazing places to visit and lots of exiting activities to do. The island has a nice range of transportation choices for visitors, and I have so far used them extensively. However, nothing can equal the freedom of having your own car, driving it yourself, stopping anywhere you please and decide your own schedule without depending on anyone. This is why this year I have decided to take a nice drive around Bali.

My rented car from Echo Bali Car Rental

I started by renting the car from a reliable car rental company. Echo Bali Car Rental – http://www.echobalicarrental.com – have been around for a few years, have a wide range of cars, comprehensive insurance, and offers a delivery and pick up service. The car I was assigned was a small and reliable Toyota Agya, perfect for the Bali small roads.

The smiling receptionists at GrandMas Legian

My tour started at the airport, where I picked up my white Toyota and drove to my first accommodation in Legian, the GrandMas Plus Hotel Legian – www.grandmashotels.com – a green artistic oasis in the heart of the tourist area. Legian stretches north of Kuta to south of Seminyak and it comprises a similar access to shops and bars than Kuta, but it is less chaotic than its sister destination, and it also is a popular destination for surfers. I spent my first day in Legian

Complimentary bicycles for clients at GrandMas Legian

bicycling around, courtesy of GrandMas Plus Hotel Legian free bicycle rental service: the basic Polygon bicycle took me through the busy streets of Kuta and along the beachfront all the way up to Seminyak and back. It was a sweating activity, I admit, but I loved it: it gave me a chance to get a good zoom-in of local life, of shopping madness and of beachfront activities such as surfing and leisurely lying on beach mats. I ended the day with a great treatment at GrandMas Plus Hotel Legian signature Rehat Massage & Reflexology, a great relief for my aching muscles, ad with a properly cooked pizza at GrandMas Plus Hotel Legian partner restaurant, Bella Italia.

Bali Mandara tollway

The day after I moved to Jimbaran, driving along the great Jalan By Pass Ngurah Rai, with its 2 lanes per each traffic direction, and through a recently built underpass that offloads some of the traffic from an important intersection.

My room at Keraton Beach Resort

Jimbaran is an area with a splendid crescent-shaped bay boasting a white sand beach that is home to 5 star beach resorts and to a few more moderate mid-market hotels. There is little in terms of nightlife there, and the area is nowhere near the action of Legian, but the clusters of grilled seafood restaurants on the beach makes up for that, and so do the stunning sunsets to be had from Jimbaran beach. I checked in at the magnificent Keraton Beach Resort – http://keratonjimbaranresort.com – had a shower and rushed to catch my car again and drive off to explore the Bukit.

Sunset approaching at Uluwau temple

The Bukit is the southernmost point of Bali, a large limestone peninsula attached to the rest of the island by a sliver of land south of the airport. Apart from having a good number of great beaches, perhaps the best on the island, and from being the top surfing spot in Bali, the Bukit is mostly famous for the cliff-hanging temple at Uluwatu. It was there I was heading, after my Toyota shared the peninsular rugged and dry environment with lots of other drivers driving towards the same destinations. I had a great vegetarian lunch on a typical Balinese eatery by the side of the road, and I reached Uluwatu temple compound just in time to enjoy the sunset and the famous Kecak Fire Dance.

Cheeky monkey at Uluwatu temple

After I paid the IDR 30,000 (about 3 US$) temple entrance fee, I was free to walk around the temple grounds – you need to dress decently, sarongs are available free of charge at the entrance – but the central courtyards can only be entered during special rituals and are normally off-limit to visitors. Uluwatu forest is inhabited by a large number of cheeky monkeys who love to distract themselves by snatching visitors’ eyeglasses, cameras and bags, so beware, stow away everything you can and leave as much as you can in the car/bus/bike.

Kecak Fire Dance

The iconic Kecak Fire Dance – or Tari Kecak Uluwatu – performed at the cliff-top amphitheater is an art performance where a group of sitting men use voice instead of the traditional gamelan ensemble of instruments, with women in traditional Balinese outfits performing dance-drama in the center. At the entrance price of IDR 100,000 (about 8 US$), it is a 1 hour sunset show you should not miss. Buy the ticket at the temple, or book in advance at reservationbaliindo@gmail.com

Keraton Beach Resort swimming pool

On day two in Jimbaran I gave the car a break and spent my day at the beach and at the Keraton Beach Resort magnificent free-form pool, I sunbathed and I enjoyed a great lunch of grilled baby snapper at Keraton’s Joglo Restaurant, right on the seafront. In the evening I went to visit the local Jimbaran fish market, where tourist buy fish and seafood – with lobster a great favourite – and have it all grilled at the local stalls that set up BBQ service and sell drinks. I went to bed satisfied…

Fishermen boats at Jimbaran fish market

TO BE CONTINUED… STAY TUNED !

A drive around Bali – Part 2 – Ubud, hills and mountains 

A drive around Bali – Part 3 – Bedugul lake and valley

A drive around Bali – Part 4 – scenic Munduk

A drive around Bali – Part 5 – the North coast

A drive around Bali – Part 6 – the West coast

The Toyota Agya was kindly supplied by Echo Bali Car Rental

TO RESERVE A ROOM AT GRANDMAS LEGIAN, CLICK HERE !

BOOK A DISCOUNTED ROOM AT KERATON JIMBARAN BEACH RESORT HERE !

The post A drive around Bali – Part 1 – the south appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Lounge

Picking a hotel in the maze of streets and establishments on offer in the Legian area of Bali is not an easy task. I was actually lucky, during my Internet search, to bump into GrandMas Plus Hotel Legian website.

GrandMas is a chain of hotels run by a young and dynamic Balinese fellow who is implementing his artistic and innovating mind into boutique style establishments in the south of the holiday island of Bali.

Vernonia is one the most important features…

Upon my evening arrival, I was immediately impressed by the vernonia climber vines that suspend from above the pergola. What a great idea for a façade, I thought, as I realized the hotel location was right in the center of Legian. This leafy look, with vernonia that drape hotel windows, is an immediate welcome.

But the real masterpiece of this surreal place is the amazingly lush courtyard past the lobby area, which boasts a mini garden as centerpiece. As it was dark already, the effect the of the lights illuminating the greenery and the balconies above was simply stunning.

Double bedroom

My room, one of 111 nicely decorated double, twin and triple rooms spread out on four levels, was small and cozy, with great wall decorations and designers elongated windows. Rooms are the perfect size and have all the necessary amenities like work desk, safe deposit box, flat screen TV with satellite channels, tea and coffee facilities, refrigerator, and a bathroom with shower and toiletries. But the highlight of the night was the great sleep I managed to have in the room’s exclusive Healthy Bed™ with microfiber pillows. Priceless.

The following morning, I sat at a table in the courtyard and had a lovely breakfast of traditional Balinese Ayam Betutu chicken, while marveling at the greenery, this time bright and drenched in sunlight. It was there that I met with Hotel Manager Mr Gede and Corporate Sales and Marketing Ms Dewi, a young, smiling couple who reflected the fresh feel of the GrandMas Plus Hotel Legian.

Busy Lobby

Lots of information surfaced during our conversation over coffee, including a short history of the GrandMas group and their collection of hotels in Legian, Seminyak and Bali Airport, and how the group has invested money and efforts to make these venues a boutique choice for happy visitors from all corners of the world. I congratulated Gede and Dewi for the great establishment, said goodbye to them, and prepared myself for the exploration of the beautiful island of Bali!

INFORMATION

Legian is one of Bali’s most popular beach resort areas, and with its excellent location, GrandMas Plus Hotel Legian is one of the best options in the area. Its excellent location enables visitors to explore all that the Legian neighborhood has to offer, with its lines of art shops, restaurants and exciting nightlife venues, all within easy walking distance from the hotel.

Entrance of Bella Italia restaurant

FACILITIES

• 12 Cozy Triple Bedrooms
• 40 Cozy Double Rooms
• 59 Cozy Twin Rooms
• Rehat Massage & Reflexology is another oasis offering a full range of massages and beauty treatments.
• Bella Italia Restaurant
• Parking on Site

CONTACTS

GrandMas Plus Hotel Legian

Jalan Sriwijaya No.368, Legian – Bali 80361
Tel: +62 361 754 149

Email: info@grandmashotels.com

WWW: http://www.grandmashotels.com/our-hotels/legian.html

GrandMas other two establishments in Bali are the GrandMas Airport and the GrandMas Seminyak.

TO RESERVE A ROOM AT GRANDMAS LEGIAN, CLICK HERE !

The post GrandMas Plus Hotel Legian appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

At the morning meeting point

Our day bicycle and kayak tour with Green Discovery Laos started at their sales office in downtown Vientiane at 9am, where we met our guide for the day, Boontha, and our companions: 2 girls and 3 young guys from Denmark. The pick up truck took us to a store where we were assigned bicycles and helmets, before beginning our cycling out of the city.

After a few minutes, we left behind the bustling town and the group cycled along the Mekong riverfront on a long dirt road, direction west. We pass rural areas of traditional wooden houses on stilts; behind, we could make out silhouettea of new constructions, incongruous with the rural surrounding. The views across the river into neighbouring Thailand were fantastic. The day was hot and humid.

Cycling on paved roads

Soon after, a small problem at the saddle of one of the girls’ bikes forced us to a pit stop near an old temple with a great character, which we rushed to explore while the guide waited for the mechanic to fix the problem. This happened within 15 minutes, and we were soon on the way again, cutting off through a neighbourhood and reaching the main road at Ban Tong Pong. The cycling along the trafficked lane was better then I had thought, and after a couple of kilometers along the trafficked lane we turned right in direction countryside. The road was being widened and heavy machineries shared the space with cars, motorbikes and… with us, intrepid cyclists.

Old temple along the river with a great character

As you can imagine, it was dusty and muddy and we are discouraged a bit, also due to the merciless heat that hit our heads and made us sweat copiously. But soon we entered a different world: a farming area crossed by a maze of dirt tracks running along the canal that takes water from the Mekong river, irrigating lush paddy fields. We cycled up and down pleasant hills, and enjoyed the views over the farms: cows herding, farmers working and the occasional bulldozer clearing the next plot for development. The dirt trails crossed forests and villages. This area is so close to town, yet it feels like a thousand miles away.

Our eating place…

The tour pamphlet mentioned a stop over at a waterfall, Tad Moun, which we skipped due to dry season. The guide tried to keep all of us together, a hard task since we all cycled at different pace. We soon realised we wet being followed, at a decent distance, by the support pick up. The group reunited at a road-side minimart where we bought drinks and chatted, before pedalling again for a few kilometers until, reaching another main road, we stopped for lunch. The place of choice looked like out of an old Asian movie: it was messy to say the least, and located beside a rudimental gas station. Hens roamed under the tables nibbling on anything edible, and a few locals chattered noisily, while we took seat – literally invading the place – and the guide Boontha ordered a meal of delicious pork balls noodles and sugar cane drink, which gave us the energy needed for the afternoon. The weather was hot hot hot and the thermometer touched 40 degrees. It was going to be a hard second leg of the journey.

The kayak boarding point

A few more kilometers of cycling under an evil heat on a newly paved road yet relatively quiet in terms of traffic, most of the section a steady downhill after the short initial slight ascent, took us to the kayak boarding point: the village of Ban Mai, where we said goodbye to our bicycles and made the transition land to water, taking a refreshing dip in the mighty Mekong. Boontha and the driver unloaded the kayaks from the truck and loaded back the bikes, then managed to get the truck stuck in the sand. This added to the sense of adventure, with the whole group participating in the freeing of the truck.

Boontha and Nicole looking cool along the Mekong

After donning our lifejackets and loading paddles on each kayak, we left for the second leg of the tour downstream back to Vientiane. The inclement sun was hitting without a break, but the journey was nevertheless quite pleasant: we paddled at ease – the water is shallow this time of the year, and the wind and a gentle current were in our favour. Thailand was clearly visible on the other coast; we got warned by Boontha not to get too close to the other side or we risk passing the invisible border which is right in the middle of the river. We would not be the first tourists who get into trouble because of this.

Panning for gold!

It was a great feeling being on the Mekong River, which flows from its headwaters in the Tibetan Plateau for approximately 4900 kilometers, touching China, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. I endeavoured to take in all the scenery: huge river islands, docked fishing vessels, fishermen balancing and propelling long and lean wooden boats with elongated bamboo sticks, people wearing conical hats with half their body submerged – searching with their hands for who-knows-what in the river bottom, probably shells -, and even a few women sifting the river sand panning for gold!

A local cycling along the river

Boontha informed us that the trip had to be cut short, stopping in an area to the north of Vientiane, just outside of town; this is normal in dry season, when the Mekong waters are so low. The starting and ending point of the kayaking part of the tour vary depending on the time of the year: in the high season, we were told, the kayaking can continue past the centre of Vientiane, ending at Ban Watnak. Cycling also gets affected: in the wet season the countryside and forested area needs to be avoided as it gets too muddy, and cycling is purely on a paved road.

Green Discovery paddles

What a great experience we had, which ended at a concrete jetty where we parked the kayaks and waited for the truck… which did not arrive! Apparently, commented Boontha after an agitated phone call, the truck driver had managed to get it stuck again in the sand after we had left on the kayaks. No worries, a nearby shack-turned-eatery perched on the high shore came to rescues with cold beer and BBQ duck! We ended the great day out with lovely chats, and once the truck finally made its appearance, we were sad to leave for the drive back to the heavy traffic in town.

Green Discovery helmets

It was a great day and it was good to get away from the traffic and the chaos and the people, and immerse in nature. We finally came to learn that we had cycled for about 25 km and paddled for about 15 km during Green Discovery Laos bicycle and kayak tour of Vientiane, which was an achievement in the Laos heat. This tour can be booked through Green Discovery Laos on their website; check details on their company profile HERE.

Check the tour description on http://www.greendiscoverylaos.com/eco-excursions/vientiane/vientiane-kayaking/item/232-mekong-cycling-kayaking

Asian Itinerary was kindly accommodated by Ibis Vientiane Nam Phu Hotel during their whole stay in Vientiane.

Read about Ibis Vientiane Nam Phu Hotel HERE

BOOK A ROOM AT Ibis Vientiane Nam Phu Hotel AT DISCOUNTED RATES HERE !

COME ON TOUR WITH US

Discover the magic of our latest trip! An experience that will take you to enchanting places, blending culture and adventures with our travel branch FANTASIA ASIA – click on the following programs to know more:

https://www.fantasiaasia.com/tour/the-north-adventure-8-days-7-nights/

https://www.fantasiaasia.com/tour/the-new-the-ancient-capital-7-days-6-nights/

https://www.fantasiaasia.com/tour/enchanting-laos-9-days-8-nights/

https://www.fantasiaasia.com/tour/luang-prabang-tour-4-days-3-nights/

https://www.fantasiaasia.com/tour/laos-fantasy-12-days-11-nights/

Watch here for our VIDEO on Laos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shuI9Aa_-pQ&t=35s

The post Bicycle and kayak tour Vientiane appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Off Road Laos Adventures front of the office

When I analyse the past year, I can say I have spent more time in the nature and on a bicycle than on my laptop. This year I wanted to keep a similar trend, so when I planned my trip to Laos, I made sure I included cycling in my schedule. Our first destination in Laos was Luang Prabang, and one of the companies that gained my trust by simply browsing their website and reading post comments by their customers was Off Road Laos Adventures. One of their must-do tours was the Bicycle Tour to Kuang Si Waterfall, so I booked it without further thinking.

Nyai and I at one of the breaks

We made our way to their office at 8am and found co-owner Charly and our guide Nyai busy preparing our bikes. Introductions were made, after which Nyai the guide, who is unusually tall compared to his average Laos countrymen – which is why they call him Big – showed us Off Road Laos Adventures license and the official day permit for our tour. Nyai also told us that the tour was on paved road all the way, but it was quite flexible and adaptable to what we would be enjoying, which we liked. We tried our bikes, chose the right helmet and we were ready for the ride. We crossed a river and headed into the mountains. The first few kilometers uphill were hard and challenging, but the jungle scenery was so stunning and worth the effort that we forgot we were climbing.

Pit stop !

The road was basically empty and the landscape amazing; we crossed a few villages where we stopped to drink water and to recover, looking at locals interacting and tasting local snacks. We were seeing a side of Luang Prabang that those staying in the urban area do not get to experience. It was by now back to a standard ride of a few ups and downs, and we could relax while cycling, looking at farmers tending their rice fields, water buffaloes grazing on the edge of the road and kids running out of their shacks to say hi as we rode past. The mountains were beautiful and lush and served as a backdrop.

Sorting the cotton

Nyai was brilliant and lots of fun, and shared his knowledge and insight of the local culture with us at a Hmong village, where kids wore colourful traditional costumes and stalls selling local handicraft abounded. At a cotton production center in the next stop, we watched a woman going through the whole working line: she took a handful of cotton just collected from the plant, made it into a thread and worked the fabric on a wooden loom. Nyai stories and anecdotes from his experiences added to the tour. This was exactly the way I wanted to experience this ride, seeing villages and places up close and not speeding past through the windows of a minivan.

Nyai and our photographers exchanging anecdotes at the restaurant

We arrived at Kuang Si Waterfall where Nyai took us to enjoy a great lunch in a local restaurant: noodle soup and a delicious BBQ of locally bred chicken (a bit bony said Nyai, but much better than a hormone-fed chicken from China). Nyai had a papaya salad so spicy the mere smell gave us the chills. He decided to make use of the time at the table to tell us the story of Kuang Si Waterfall; Kuang means dear in Lao language, and the legend tells of a golden dear that used to come to drink regularly at one of the fall’s pools, or so the locals say… The story of the few villages that were relocated by the Government from up the hill sounded more interesting: apparently, villagers up the hill used so much water for irrigation that the waterfall was dry most of the time. Once the government decided to turn Kuang Si Waterfall into a local attraction, they had to be relocated in exchange for commercial spaces near the waterfall entrance area used to do shops, souvenir stalls, restaurants. Enough to think that up to 20 years ago the way to Khuan Si Waterfall was just a small dirt track, where now you have a big road used daily by dozens of minivans, buses, tuk tuk and motorbikes unloading hordes of tourists who come to see the most visited waterfall in the area.

Several pools at Khuan Si Waterfall

After leaving the bikes at the restaurant parking lot, we entered the falls compound, paying the 20,000 Kip fee. Kuang Si Waterfall spans a large area through a lush jungle; the walking trails wind past several pools and waterfalls cascading from high limestone cliffs. Visitors can relax and swim in these pools, which have an incredible water made turquoise blue by the high level of calcium in it. The place was crowded, though there are sections of the area where most visitors do not usually reach, with pools big enough to swim and lots of ledges to lay out on.

Khuan Si Waterfall

We had a nice swim in the crystal clear waters and a rest, then proceeded to visit the Asiatic Bear Rescue Center, a bear sanctuary located along the jungle walk, where we observed some 23 Asiatic black bears, most of them young clubs, that have been confiscated but the Lao Government from illegal poaching and trading. For more info visit http://www.freethebears.org.au/web/Projects/Laos/Meet-the-Bears/ . You can also opt to hike up to the upper tiers of Kuang Si Waterfalls, but for us the time was not enough, plus we had to keep some energy left for the ride back, so Nyai discouraged us from trekking at that point. We therefore hopped back onto the bikes and started to cycle.

Rice farmers at work

The ride back was not so bad, most of the route was now downhill; we maintained a decent pace and reached Luang Prabang by 3,30 pm, to the surprise of Charly, who thought we had been pretty fast. It was only then we were informed we had cycled 35 km each way for a total of 70+ km, which under the Laos sun was quite an achievement!

A kid carrying wood

For me it was indeed THE BEST WAY to discover the local lifestyle and nature on two wheels, propelled only by your own body, hence closer to nature. And it was indeed THE BEST CYCLING ADVENTURE I had in Laos during this trip. You will need to be relatively fit since the way there is a gradual uphill, but this tour should be accessible to most. You may, like me, get a bit stiff after the ride, but a good stretching and great memories will surely make you recover fast. It was a great experience, one that I would recommend to anyone visiting Luang Prabang and wanting a bit of an active adventure on the side. And Nyai was an active part of the tour, an excellent guide and a friend who looked after us very well!

OFF ROAD LAOS ADVENTURES

Off Road Laos Adventures co-owner Charly is the son of a French couple living in Luang Prabang. Off Road Laos Adventures are fast becoming one of the best tour companies in Luang Prabang. His motto is “quality not quantity”, and this was clearly reflected in the bicycle tour we took with them.

Off Road Laos Adventures employs local guides, treating them and paying them fairly. They take extra care when organising each tour, be it a bicycle ride, a cross-bike tour or a trek. All Off Road Laos Adventures partners survey the tours themselves, studying each route extensively before offering it to visitors. They have a policy of cancelling some of the tours when off season, when the weather would not allow for a pleasurable experience. Kudos to them!

Local kid at a Hmong village

This is their link to Bicycle Tour to Khuan Si Waterfall:

http://www.offroadlaosadventures.com/#!luang-prabang-cycling-kuangsi-1-day/c8t0

READ THEIR COMPANY PROFILE HERE

Nyai telling us one of his stories

You can of course rent a bicycle and go to Khuan Si Waterfall on your own, but I can honestly say that having a local guy like Nyai with us was a great bonus both for his great company and for his knowledge of the local people and culture, a knowledge he was more than willing to share with us at any time.

The bicycles were in great condition, and the fact that Off Road Laos Adventures register each outing with the Government, pay the tourist taxes and provide an insurance should at least avoid unwanted trouble in case of an emergency as well as exploitation of local guides who often get underpaid – beware when a company offers a tour at a price that is too cheap. Off Road Laos Adventures really care about your expectations and about how things are arranged. Having not tried

WHAT TO TAKE WITH YOU 

Being prepared for a bicycle tour, especially if you are inexperienced, is the best help against injury and disappointment, so this is a list of things you may want to stock in your day-pack:

– sunscreen

– mosquitoes repellent

– a hut and sunglasses

– multiple layers of clothing: the weather may start cool in the morning and become baking at midday, the sky might turn overcast and it may rain; consider everything

– tissue/toilet paper and hand sanitizer as bathrooms may not be available and there may not be a chance to wash your hands when you need to

– plasters and a bandage – you may need to patch yourself up in case of a fall, and though your guide will have some, it is always better to bring extra.

– water – your guide will supply the first, you will then need to buy refills along the road

– a banana or an energy bar – though there are plenty of places along the route to pick a local snack

Asian Itinerary was kindly accommodated by Le Vang Bua Villa during their whole stay in Luang Prabang. 

Read about Le Vang Bua Villa here.

BOOK A ROOM AT Le Vang Bua Villa AT DISCOUNTED RATES HERE

READ ABOUT OFF ROAD LAOS ADVENTURE SUSTAINABLE TOURISM PROGRAM WITH PHASOUK HERE

COME ON TOUR WITH US

Discover the magic of our latest trip! An experience that will take you to enchanting places, blending culture and adventures with our travel branch FANTASIA ASIA – click on the following programs to know more:

https://www.fantasiaasia.com/tour/the-north-adventure-8-days-7-nights/

https://www.fantasiaasia.com/tour/the-new-the-ancient-capital-7-days-6-nights/

https://www.fantasiaasia.com/tour/enchanting-laos-9-days-8-nights/

https://www.fantasiaasia.com/tour/luang-prabang-tour-4-days-3-nights/

https://www.fantasiaasia.com/tour/laos-fantasy-12-days-11-nights/

Watch here for our VIDEO on Laos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shuI9Aa_-pQ&t=35s

The post Bicycle Tour to Kuang Si Waterfall appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Wat Rong Khun main temple and the carps lake

You cannot say that you have seen Chiang Rai without having been to Wat Rong Khun. Commonly known as the White Temple, this is a Buddhist and Hindu temple with a huge structure designed by famed Thai painter and visual artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. Wat Rong Khun is today one of Chiang Rai’s biggest tourist draws, and I had a chance to visit it as part of a Chiang Rai bicycle tour (CLICK HERE TO READ ABOUT THE TOUR). Every day, hundreds of visitors line up to see the main building of this religious complex built just 13 km south of the city center of Chiang Rai.

Chalermchai Kositpipat

Wat Rong Khun unconventional architectural work is inspired by the Expiatori Temple from the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, Spain. The temple is currently under construction, and it can actually be considered a work-in-progress. Its construction began in 1997, and the completion is not expected to happen for another 50-60 years. The project is being funded by donations and by sales of Chalermchai Kositpipat’s gallery prints, as well as by the private funds of Kositpipat, who had a very poor upbringing in his home town of Chiang Rai, but who has now reached a certain level of wealth and has decided to give back to his community. He is rumoured to have already invested 40 millions thb (1 million Euros) of his own money into the project.

Wat Rong Khun main temple

Chalermchai Kositpipat is famous for Buddhist symbolism and for the traditional Hindu modern twist in his art; his works are also known outside of Thailand. Despite being one of the most famous contemporary Thai artists, Ajarn (a title reserved to professors and great masters) Chalermchai Kositpipat has long been criticised for his stylistic choices: the outdoor complex of the white temple is completely made up of white lime and millions of small mirrors embedded in the tiles that make a beautiful light effects. The choice of white, like many others, is dictated by the idea of communicating through important evocative symbols. Asked why he has chosen to make Wat Rong Khun white, Kositpipat replies that gold is “suitable to people who lust for evil deeds” so he wanted this one to be more pure, different from the traditional golden temples. However amazing the white effect is, and no matter how much sense his concept makes, Wat Rong Khun is not always well digested by the local population, accustomed to hundreds of years of bright colours.

sea of ghoulish white supplicant hands pointing upwards

Back to my visit, past a pond populated by white carps, I made it across a bridge that crosses a sea of ghoulish white supplicant hands pointing upwards and reaching from the pits of hell while sinking to the underworld; this bridge dictates the cycle of rebirth and separates a small semicircle that represents the world as we know it, and the temple. It symbolises the road to happiness above the temptation, greed and desire. Two huge white naga snakes accompany the faithful to the inside of the temple; disembodied heads dangle from trees. This symbolism seems to be warning us: leave your anger and greed at the entrance or you will end up in hell.

Chalermchai Kositpipat painting

Inside I was greeted by seraphic Buddha statues sitting in meditation on big lotus flowers, and I paid my respect to them before concentrating on the unusual iconography of the interior walls: not the usual story of the Buddha as depicted in most ordinary temples, but a series of frescos on shades of orange with characters that include Superman, Spiderman, Michael Jackson, an International Space Station, Batman, Angry Birds, Osama Bin Laden, George Bush and even Neo, the chosen one in the Matrix trilogy. These mixing of apocalyptic visions and science fiction is a choice that surely searches for a blend between the West and the East, the ancient and the modern. Unfortunately, photo taking is not permitted inside the the main building of the White Temple, so you have to take my word for it (or visit the temple yourself).

Good luck silver leaf

While I was very puzzled by the interior, where I spent longer time than I had planned, I was really amazed by the crisp white aesthetic of the exterior. Actually, the whole compound revealed endless surprises. The guide took me around each part of the grounds, explaining the symbolism of the artwork and of the sculptures. Around us were statues that seemed carved out of ice, with beautiful topless girls designed following the traditional Hindu canons, surrounded by pretty installations that are proudly displayed in the huge and very well-kept gardens. For a small donation, I wrote our names on a silver leaf and hanged it on the prayer trees present in the garden, joining the over 100,000 leaves already present.

workshop warehouse

The guide then took me to the massive workshop warehouse where I could witness work behind the scenes: sculptures, panels, mirrors being cut and glued to cement wings; several young artists take part of this amazing project, one that will take decades to properly complete. On the outside, a golden pagoda that looks like a temple in itself hosts the toilets.

temple in the making

Wat Rong Khun was badly damaged during the 2014 earthquake and it was closed for a short time until some experts verified the damage and reported that none of the complex structures suffered from extensive damage. At the Chalermchai Kositpipat gallery and shop, you have the chance to purchase one of the several prints or a book on the artist; in this way you will help financing works at this amazing structure that is Wat Rong Khun. Entrance to the White Temple is free, but I heard rumours that they are planning to charge a small fee very soon in order to collect funds for the construction.

Wat Rong Khun wiehing well

Chalermchai Kositpipat believes that this temple, his great tribute to Buddha, will give him immortality. Once, talking about Wat Rong Khun, he stated that “only death can stop my dream, but it will not stop my project!”

I have visited several temples around Asia, and I can easily attest that this is indeed a unique one. Visit it if you have the chance.

Asian Itinerary was kindly sponsored by Laluna Hotel and Resort, read our review on http://asianitinerary.com/laluna-hotel-and-resort/ or BOOK A ROOM BY CLICKING HERE !

CLICK ON THE FOLLOWING LINK TO WATCH FANTASIA ASIA VIDEO O THE WHITE TEMPLE:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Nc95PGMe6Q

The post Wat Rong Khun – the white temple appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Asian Itinerary photographer is about to ride!

What can I say, I love cycling! My plan for a bicycle trip in the Chiang Rai area had initially included taking my own bicycle there, finding a decent map and charging out along the way. Then I searched the internet for an independent tour company and I was more than surprised to find Chiang Rai Bicycle Tour, the only company offering pure cycling adventures in the area. I got in touch with them and picked a day for my tour.

When that day arrived, I woke early and had breakfast at my Chiang Rai hotel, then waited for owner Khun Bee at the reception. Phubordin Thitipongkul (AKA Bee) turned up in a pick up truck and he was already wearing his bike helmet, a good starting sign!

Chiang Rai Bicycle Tour bikes

The sonthaew (a pick-up truck set up to carry people) driven by Bee’s sister then drove towards the city outskirts where Chiang Rai Bicycle Tour have their headquarters: a simple family home in the countryside, with a patio so stuffed with bicycles there was no room for anything else. Bee owns 60 of them, all Trek brand, and the family maintains them and fixes them thanks to a mechanic station with of all the necessary tools. We were surprised to see some dated bikes in great order and well-tuned. Khun Bee then gave us a safety run-down, fitted us for bikes and fed us with notions on road customs in Thailand, hand signals and how to keep the ride safe. He stocked a set of tubes and a set of emergency tools in case of a breakdown in his rucksack, as well as a medical kit. These boys are so thorough, and you can tell their operations are so smooth thanks to the love they put in what they do. We were soon set to go.

Riding along dirt roads

We were now on the eastern edge of Chiang Rai cycling south along quiet lanes and footpaths toward the Lao River, a route well-studied and previously explored by Bee and his brothers. Lots of small tracks and back roads create wonderful trails that show bikers a side of the Chiang Rai countryside that most tourists will normally not see. We kept a comfortable pace and saw temples along the way, as well as rice paddies, rubber plantations, local markets, quiet neighbourhoods and farmers at work.

Countryside scenes

The physical activity combined with a weak yet warming sun – we were lucky as the day was not that hot – made me start sweating in no time. The rescue came soon after, when Bee’s sister Ying pick-up appeared parked on a village football ground. Bee’s sister Ying takes care of the food and refreshments along the way in a very clever way: she drives the pick-up through side roads and shortcuts and positions herself at break points, in order for us to have easy pit stops with coffee and local snacks without Bee having to carry them. She also functions as the support team should anything happen to a bike, or should anyone wish to cut the ride short. Temperatures can soar in these areas and it is not always easy to keep on cycling while your body sweats profusely.

Village feel

It was time to grab the bikes again, continuing our ride through dirt roads and easy single-track trails in direction southwest along the banks of the Lao River. Hardly any motorbike or car bothered us at all. Discovering Chiang Rai countryside through quiet back roads was indeed my target, one that I was accomplishing. The scenery was stunning, there were lots of water buffaloes grazing in the fields. Bee stooped to have a chat with a family or rubber tappers and we later enjoyed a few cultural sights including cocks training for a fight and charcoal making. The day was still reasonably hot and we cycled at slow pace along irrigation canals, where we had plenty of time to get to know more about our host.

Khun Bee hails from Tha Thon, north of Chiang Mai, in the northern Thai border with Myanmar. He was a rice farmer before moving to Chiang Mai where he was a monk for over 7 years and subsequently worked as a guide for a trek and cycle company. He then moved to Chiang Rai looking for opportunities, and once he realised there was no bicycle company in town, he started his company, which is still the first and only bike-only enterprise in Chiang Rai. Bee and his brothers have obtained a Tourist Authority of Thailand licence as guides and also have a company licence, insuring riders on tours. Thumbs up for the guys!

Wat Rong Khun

We had so far been on potholed roads, dirt paths, and slight inclines, and it was now time to turn onto a paved road for the  final stretch before Wat Rong Khun, better known as the White Temple and one of Chiang Rai’s biggest tourist draws thanks to its unconventional origins – an artist project planned to last 60 years – and contemporary style. We had a lunch of traditional khao soi curry at a local restaurant, after which Khun Bee gave us a good tour of the temple, taking us around each part of the grounds, telling us about the symbolism of the artwork and sculptures, and showing us around the workshop where apprentices create unusual mirrored decorations for the temple.

Coal making area

The second part of the ride, though hotter, was just as interesting. The first leg was along paved roads, but the traffic was really little and we felt extremely safe. Bee then turned to country roads where we saw black herons and white herons fly by our heads, rice paddies, farmers on tractors, dogs. The afternoon went by fast; I stopped lots of times for picture-shooting, and I appreciated Bee patience. After an uphill portion we reached the Singha Park, a lovely compound with a long bicycle lane crossing through it. There we cruised along hills cultivated in fruit orchards, tea and vegetable gardens, we passed a lake with swans and fields of flowers in bloom. It was a great way to end a comprehensive tour, and we took advantage to have some extra discussions with Bee about different cultures and ways of life, the nature and the environment, religion and customs. Bee was a font of information and never tired of answering our questions.

Singha Park

Back at the parking, Ying appeared with her pick-up truck, offering us some energetic coconut cookies and cold drinks. Khun Bee loaded the bicycles on the roof of the truck and we were soon on the way back to town.

I can’t recommend Bee any more highly! If you happen to be in the Chiang Rai area and look for a great way to see Thailand from a slightly different angle, do not hesitate and give Bee a call!

_____________________________________________________________

This was one of the best and most authentic bicycle tours I have ever been on; it gives you the chance to see the countryside of Northern Thailand through different eyes.

Bee at Singha Park

Chiang Rai Bicycle Tour take out large groups and all ages, 8 to 80, all heights can cycle – he has extra large bikes to cater for extra tall men! They also have tandems and pull-on for kids.

Chiang Rai Bicycle Tour is a well-run family business. They love what they do, and it shows. In fact, Bee motto is: “We love what we do and we do it well. We don’t mind competition, since there is room for everyone and we always get decent business”. They are the only company in the area to focus solely on cycling and, as it is their passion, they take pride in everything they do!

Loading the bikes on the truck

The tour was well-managed and highly professional; I highly recommend their tours to anyone who enjoys cycling and wants to see and experience a part of Thailand that your average tourist wouldn’t see. Rides are relatively easy, yet you need to have a minimum of good physical condition. If in doubt, discuss this with Bee at the time of booking so he can place you on the most suitable tour.

Chiang Rai Bicycle Tour also run multi-days tours, for the full list check their website on  http://www.chiangraibicycletour.com/chiangraicyclingtour_fullday.html  

Chiang Rai Bicycle Tour is fully licensed by all the proper authorities in Thailand, guides are authorised and licensed Thailand Tour Guides and they carry accident insurance for every rider.

Chiang Rai Bicycle Tour company profile on our website: http://asianitinerary.com/chiang-rai-bicycle-tour/ 

Asian Itinerary was kindly sponsored by Laluna Hotel and Resort, read our review on http://asianitinerary.com/laluna-hotel-and-resort/ or BOOK A ROOM BY CLICKING HERE !

The post Chiang Rai Bicycle Tour – full day countryside tour appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

Local intersection

What is the real feeling of being “a world away”? I discovered that when I followed Eddie on an adventurous morning out to the agricultural district of Balik Pulau. I had been on the island of Penang, in Malaysia, for over a week, hovering between the Komtar area, the Clan Jetties and the Unesco heritage area of Georgetown, walking amongst people, driving along traffic, breathing smog and hearing voices and noises. I needed a break.

Even at 7am, when Eddie picked me up from my hotel, Penang was business as usual: traffic jams, high rise buildings, people running towards somewhere… But then, after a scenic drive along a winding road, we crossed the hills, and what awaited me on Penang‘s west side was a different island to the one I had previously known. A ‘new’ dimension made of nature, peace, slow motion, one indeed that immediately felt more suitable, more humane.

Eddie preparing our bikes for the day

Once we finally arrived at the Audi Dream Farm, the Explore Balik Pulau docking station, I got to chose my bicycle. Do not expect a Merida or a Trek; their bikes have seen better times, but a weekly visit by a local mechanic ensures all essential features work: the brakes and the gears. Mind you, you mainly cycle along flat routes, so gears are not really needed.

Misty morning in Balik Pulau

At 8am, Balik Pulau was still very much asleep, as the sun had not yet appeared from behind the hills. We started our cycling along a canal; we met a few cows – whose meat is used to cook Malaysia popular dish Rendang – farmers on foot and no-one else, before reaching a jetty where two villages, one Chinese one Malay, border each other, their villagers living side by side in respect for each other’s different traditions and beliefs.

A couple of kilometers further, we visited a very neat and well-run goat farm that produces dairy products, its grounds filled with a number of fruit trees that include durian – the most famous produce of the area – jackfruit, starfruit, papaya and more. Behind, the towering hills are covered by fruit orchards all the way to their top. What an amazing area.

Goats at the goat dairy farm

I was really enjoying Eddie, this young laid-back chap of Hokkien Chinese origins who 5 years ago ditched a career as a chef and a job in the IT industry to live in close contact with local people, with animals and with nature. He is such a knowledgeable guy with a hearty laugh and he fed me with tons of information on several subjects.

Owner of the nutmeg farm

We stopped in the centre of the Chinese village to look at their traditional way of life, entered the local temple that hosts the Goddess of Sea and other deities, and browsed the local grocery store and a few local stalls. We then moved along a labyrinth of minor roads, pathways and alleys to discover traditional Malay houses with their well-manicured gardens in local Kampongs – villages in Malay language – where we were literally treated like pedestrians, before arriving at the nutmeg farm. There, the affable owner of third generation of nutmeg farmers gave me a full lecture on this spice that at some point was so precious it served as a currency.

Fishing village in Balik PUlau

Next was a quaint little fishing village surrounded by the fish market where one can buy the catch of the day and by the mangrove forest, where we enjoyed looking at mudskippers doing their things, at the local small boats coming and going, at fishermen sorting out their catch and their nets or simply dozing off on their hammocks. We even sighted a couple of medium-sized monitor lizards! Marvellous.

The 12 kilometre loop was closed when we finally reached back the starting point.

Farming with the heart at the Audi Dream Farm

We were lucky to pick a day that was cloudy, hence not so hot and not rainy either, the perfect day for cycling. The last thing left to do was to try their coffee and a delicious, home-made durian cake. Eddie was also so kind to take me on a guided visit of his Audi Dream Farm. What they are creating on a 2.5 hectares of land is simply amazing: they breed several of the world’s species of pigeons, they have huge aviaries full of what they call ‘love birds’, they keep ducks, chicken, deers (yes – all the way from India) and rabbits, they have huge ponds full of Tilapia fish, and they grow fully organic vegetables in a garden so neat it feels like paradise.

Penang weast coast

Could I have asked for more? Surely not, but Eddie was not done yet. While driving back to Georgetown, he took the time to stop at a south-west area by the sea where I could see the whole west of the island, including the complete hill range; he then drove to rice paddy fields, and even stopped on the top of the hill for a panoramic view of the charming area of Balik Pulau, before sinking back to the Penang eastern world made of cars and cement.

Balik Pulau literally means ‘the back of the island’. Well, after this tour with Eddie, to me it felt more like the front of the island. With the island experiencing a development boom, locals say this part of Penang is disappearing quickly. Visit it now before it changes.

Balik Pulau Countryside Cycling Tour

Enjoy a deserved break of coffee and durian cake

The cycling tour at Balik Pulau departs every afternoon, Saturday and Sunday mornings, and it is the best way to see the countryside of Penang up close and to be touched by the charm of country life at personal level. This tour is suitable to all, from 8 to 80 years old, with or without cycling experience, fit or unfit.

Penang can be mercilessly hot, so bring a hat, sunglasses sunblock, a small towel and a set of spare clothes (at least a spare t-shirt) in case the day is hot and sweaty. Eddie brings along raincoats and lots of information. Water can be bought in small grocery stores along the way, but bring a small bottle for the start.

Balik Pulau cycling tour leaflet

Helmet is not compulsory and it is your choice whether you wear it or not. The ride is along dirt paths and minor roads where hardly any car of bike circulate, so you can bicycle without it, but if you prefer to wear it, it is available for you at the centre.

Tours can be done either in the afternoon or in the early morning – if you opt for the early morning tour, make sure you have your breakfast before pick up. The tour is priced at RM30 per person for the guided cycling tour if you make your way to Balik Pulau, or RM60 per person if you prefer to be picked up from and sent back to your hotel. You can contact Eddie on aventleisure@gmail.com and visit their website on www.explorebalikpulau.com.my/tour for further information, contact and tour reservations.

FOR GREAT DEALS ON ACCOMMODATION IN BALIK PULAU, CLICK HERE !

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Chiang Rai Bicycle Tour

Chiang Rai Bicycle Tour
222/6 Moo 3 Tasai Muang
Chiang Rai 5700 Thailand 

Tel./Fax: +66 53 774506

Available 24 hours : Mobile +66 85 6624347

Website : www.chiangraibicycletour.com

e-mail : chiangraibicycletour@yahoo.com

Chiang Rai Bicycle Tour (Licence No. 24/00101) is a tour company that operates half day – five days cycling tours around Chiang Rai and Golden Triangle area. Chiang Rai Bicycle Tour is the only bicycle touring group based in Chiang Rai, the northernmost province of Thailand.

Chiang Rai Bicycle Tour

The cycling is on well-planned routes on quiet roads and lanes used by the local villagers, chosen for the interest and contact with the Thai countryside and Thai way of life. The bike tours are easy exercise and relaxing in beautiful surroundings that highlight the beautiful sites around Chiang Rai.

While your are cycling you will experience authentic Thai culture and see local Thais working in rice paddies, fruit orchards, rubber plantations, and learn to appreciate the gentleness of the Thai people in the village. You will understand why they call Thailand “the land of smiles, the land of yellow robes.

Chiang Rai Bicycle Tour is Recommended by TripAdvisor and the Holidaysplease Thailand Holidays guide.

Chiang Rai Bicycle Tour

Chiang Rai, the northernmost province of Thailand, is situated on the Kok River basin. Chiang Rai is about 785 kilometres from Bangkok and 182 kilometres from Chiang Mai. Chiang Rai is called “A Cycling Paradise” because of its rolling hills and beautiful mountain countryside . It offers a wonderful opportunity for riders to experience the Thai way of life as you cycle by and visit Thai villages, farmers working in their orchards and rice fields.

The post Chiang Rai Bicycle Tour appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

A tour into Ao Luk province in the north of Krabi region, Thailand, uncovers a wonderful escape to the tourism trap. Northern treasures at Ao Luk include activities like swimming, kayaking, trekking and cycling; it’s all there for you to enjoy it, and in a ‘green way’.

It was with great pleasure that I accepted the invitation to spend a couple of days with Khun Gift and with members of one of the Ao Luk Community Based Tourism (CBT), the one at Tham Seua Noi village. We had been out with them previously to visit Khao Garos Mountain, and a new exciting adventure was what we expected for this two-days trip.

One of Ao Luk northern treasures

DAY 1

The center point of Ao Luk district is the Tharnboke Koranee National Park, which can be easily reached by road from Krabi Town and Ao Nang respectively in about 45 minutes. Upon our arrival at Raipreda Homestay, the resort that would provide our team with accommodation, we were welcomed with traditional snacks like sticky rice and beans on banana leaves, and a nice hot coffee. After a chat with affable Khun Gift and with her father Khun Uray, one of CBT’s official explorers and discoverers, we got to choose our mountain bikes for the afternoon activity.

Cycling around the Tham Seua community was a marvelous experience. We followed our group leaders along a paved road before taking a detour through a dirt track to reach Tham Seua Noi cave, situated inside a broad limestone outcrop. This cave is home to a monastery and meditation center, the Wat Tham Seua Noi, where a couple of monks were doing their cleaning chores. We passed a big and nicely decorated statue of Buddha and walked on to a narrow tunnel to reach a small underground pond where the air was stale and humid. The guide pointed his torch to the far end of the cave to observe hundreds of bats flying in the hollow cavity not far from us. It was spooky, but interesting indeed.

By bike through rubber plantations

We then continued our cycling tour, pedaling through rice fields and rubber and palm oil plantations along hilly tracks, avoiding holes, negotiating steep climbs, and breaking hard during descents until we reached a dead-end where we had to stop, leave our bikes and proceed on foot. Five minutes later we arrived at what resembled a small and dried-up lake in the midst of forested lowland, surrounded by a man-made platform on stilts that encircled the whole area. This pond had a sand floor that was covered by a thin layer of water. As we looked to the murky waters, the guides clapped their hands vigorously, and the sand reacted by bubbling up and releasing water from underground. This was a phenomenon I had never seen. I initially thought it was a hot spring, but the water was cold. We all had so much fun making as much noise as we could and watching the sand bubbling up more and more. Someone stuck a wood stick into the sand, which was immediately pushed out by the sand mass. The guides reassured me these are not quicksand so I leaned on the raised platform and stuck a whole forearm inside the sand, only to feel a mix of sand and water bubbling up around it. No one could explain to me what exactly was causing that, though one of the guys told me we were connecting with mother earth’s forces of the underground… The locals were told about this place by the elders, who recommended that nobody dared to step on the ground there, so there is an aura of mystery and respect surrounding the place they have come to call Nam Pud Prop Mue – or ‘water that splutters at hand clapping’. I promised myself to later make a Google search on the subject.

Walking through caves

The rest of the cycling tour took us to the end of the paved lane, where a river separates the provinces of Krabi and Phang Nga. On the way back, the fittest of the team followed the guide to an arduous trek to the base of one of the limestone karsts where, partly hidden by thick jungle, a massive group of caves unveiled. These caves were recently discovered by a member of the community, and we were practically the first foreigners to explore the area. There was no sign of human passage; we climbed a steep path to reach the cave upper level where, torches lit, we ventured inside total darkness. A narrow passage developed into a wide cave with lots of stalactites and stalagmites, alive and dripping in the never-ending process of change inside these unique monoliths where once an ancient civilization lived. I was one of the last to turn back and got to explore a good kilometer of the cave with one of the guides, passing through areas as narrow as my body, by several little calcified water deposits. The guide told me we could be going for ages inside that maze, and that there was a real danger of losing the way if we were not careful to remember from what side we had come from. Not an easy task, I realized on the way back, since all rocks looked the same and totally different from what they had looked on the way in.

We arrived back at Raipreda Homestay at sunset, dropped the bicycles, showered in the outdoor bathrooms of our bungalows, and joined the group for a lovely dinner and to discuss the itinerary for the day after. Sleep came fast that night, at the sound of cicadas and birds…

DAY 2

The geothermal beach at Hat Sai Rawn

The alarm clock went off at 5 am. Why are we waking up so early? Where am I? – I wondered. I looked out in the dark from my elevated terrace and saw pick-up trucks getting organized in the parking area below. I remembered where I was, and what we were doing. We were off to another unusual experience. All the group amassed at the back of one of the pick-up trucks and enjoyed the drive and the chill morning air. At the small pier by the river, we boarded a longtail boat and headed off upriver, only to get off, 10 minutes later, in an unassuming beach at the side of a foggy mangrove forest that did not look anything special at first glance. The river water was cold when we got off the boat, but on the way to the shore, we realized there was something different. The water under our feet was warmer in some places, and warm was also the sand we stepped on. What initially had looked like morning mist were in fact the vapors from hot river water at this geothermal beach named Hat Sai Rawn. It was an amazing feeling and we soon learned to step away from areas where the sand was way too hot. There was the real danger of getting seriously burnt as our bodies tended to sink in the hot sand.

The guides set tables and chairs and prepared coffee, while the Thai women who accompanied us on the trip placed bamboo beds on the riverbed and got ready to give us a therapeutic mud mask. The sun was rising fast and the river water was getting hotter and hotter, boiling in some places, and the sand nearby was unbearably hot. The supposed therapeutic qualities of hot sand, and in particular of black sand, continue to be exploited around the world. Hot spring therapy or hot sand spa is quite popular in Japan and is called Arenation: hot sand is applied, sprinkled upon an individual, or walked on. This hot sand mud can be used as a mudpack for a massage or for facials. Once again I was surprised to find this phenomenon here in Ao Luk since it is normally found in areas that sit right on a volcanic belt, which as far as I knew was not the case for this area.

kayaking at Bor Thor

By 7.30 am we were back at Raipreda Homestay where we had just enough time for breakfast before leaving for the last leg of the adventure: paddling a kayak at picturesque Bor Thor. Located on the banks of the Bring River, a mangrove-lined saltwater river that winds through the peaceful countryside until it finally empties into Phang Nga, Bor Thor maze of mangrove canals are best explored by kayak. The karst scenery that the area is so famous for provided the caves we paddled to and through: Tam Lod Nua, the ‘cave passing through’; Tam Lod Thai, a cave that winds its way past beautiful stalactites and leads to a stunning lagoon known as Tham Khao Wong; and Tham Pee Hua Toh or ‘Big Head Ghost Cave’, a huge chamber accessible only on foot where various paintings or picto-glyphs on the cave walls from a civilization that lived here 3,000 years ago offer a fascinating glimpse into Krabi’s rich cultural past.

Raipreeda Homestay

We ended our tour with a lovely Thai lunch and a chat with Khun Gift to gather information about CBT and Raipreeda Homestay, as well as to recap all the activities done in the short span of two days. We loved the northern treasures at Ao Luk, and so will you. Visit this area if you have the chance, it will not disappoint your thirst for adventure.

For a stay at Raipreda Homestay check on http://www.raipreda-homestay.com/ and to book Ao Luk Community Based Network (CBT) tours, browse http://www.raipreda-homestay.com/index.php/en/package-tour/boattour

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Paradesa Borneo Discovery

1 Wayang Street, 93000 Sarawak, Kuching, Malaysia

Tel +60 82238801

Email info@paradesaborneo.com

www.paradesaborneo.com

Facebook, Youtube, Google+ :  paradesa borneo

Alfonso getting us geared up

The meeting point was at the Para Desa Borneo Discovery main office, which is right in the center of town, at 7,45. After explaining the formalities and safe measures and agreeing on signals to be used once on the road, our local tour guide Alfonso assigned each one of us with a bicycle and we were soon on the way for the half-day Kampong bicycle tour in Kuching outskirts to visit traditional Kampongs and the local market. Cycling at 8am is nice in Kuching since traffic is still not too bad at that time. Kuching roads are wide and cyclists can feel safe, in fact we felt quite comfortable straight away.

Before long we were passing central market, China street, India street and finally reached the jetty where Alfonso hailed a taxi boat; we loaded the bikes and off we went for the 5 minutes boat journey to reach the opposite bank of the Sarawak River. These small local taxi boats run from 6am to 10pm and have a nominal price range of 6 to 10 Ringgit.

The pier at the other side of the river

The key of this tour are the Kampongs (Malay for ‘villages’): they were and in some cases still are home to Sarawakians; small clusters of houses built from wood and thatch and raised on stilts to avoid floods and creeping animals, nestled against a backdrops of idyllic greeneries surrounded by banana and coconut groves and marshes.

Once we reached the first Kampong, we cycled along narrow lanes surrounded by a quiet environment; some of the village wooden houses on stilts are more than 100 years old and have a flavor of times past. Houses’ courtyards have hens roaming in them and kids playing, on the inside women were cooking and there was a permeating smell of boiled bamboo in the air. Kampong houses were built along the river shore and are painted in bright colours; some are derelict and uninhabited and others nicely refurbished. On these small roads, traffic is practically inexistent and we were given time to cycle at our own pace, while Alfonso showed off his knowledge of the local area.

Local woman celebrating end of the harvest

We crossed a wooden bridge and were soon within sight of a huge market, the Kubah Ria, hosted inside a modern roofed area inside which merchants proposed the usual exotic items you would expect in a local market: fruit, veggies, meat, a huge variety of fish and souvenirs, as well as unique jungle produce like wild ferns, exotic veggies, curative seeds, roots and orchid plants, all for sale at affordable prices. We were blessed to be there on a harvest celebration day and even watched a dance by local people in tribal attires. At the nearby food court, Alfonso treated the group to laksa, the local specialty: a popular spicy noodle soup from the Peranakan culture, a merger of Malay and Chinese elements. I had eaten laksa before, but this was particularly delicious, not so spicy and with a lovely pungent flavor; we washed it down with an icy cold Teh Tarik – tea with milk and sugar.

A chat with Alfonso revealed his passion for this profession and his being at ease with people, and this was indeed reflected in the level of entertainment and in the wealth of information and wisdom he transmitted to the group of cyclists during the whole 3 ½ hours tour.

Young woman getting ready for the harvesting festival

Next destination, after crossing another series of wooden bridges and narrow passages where friendly local people waved at us and kids said infinite hallo, we found ourselves in a maze of lanes hosting a lovely residential area, where we stopped in a local house to purchase coconut water and a freshly squeezed sugar cane drink, and to socialize with the owners. The temperature started to soar and it was soon time to head back to town.

In the last 10 minutes we negotiated our way in the city traffic, which was not that bad after all. Back at the office, we congratulated Alfonso, made acquaintance with operational manager Mr. Law and were offered a freshly brewed coffee that we enjoyed in the lush courtyard of the Para Desa building, which also has a chill-out lounge and a guest house on the upper floors.

Looking cool in my bike outfit

I felt privileged to be part of the Kampong bicycle tour in Kuching, to have been able to explore the other side of Kuching, one that very few outsiders visit, and to have seen the way the local folks live in traditional houses on stilts along the banks of the great Sarawak River. The bikes were great, 27 gears and all the necessary gear including helmets, and we were glad to be provided with a bottle of water! Alfonso is a local and an excellent guide with an impressive knowledge of the town sites and its surroundings areas.

Paradesa Borneo is a small and friendly business, very much efficiently run, and I would not hesitate to recommend it to any visitor to Kuching in search of a bit of safe and healthy adventure, be it an heritage tour or a bike/hike/kayak expedition.

Kampong bicycle tour in Kuching always ride, rain or shine:

Duration: 3 to 3 ½ hours

Tour package includes: bicycle, helmet, guide, drinks, refreshments.

READ HERE ABOUT PARADESA SERVICES

Asian Itinerary also went out with Paradesa on a kayak tour, READ ABOUT IT HERE !

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Inle phaung daw oo paya

Despite being a tourist town, Nyaungshwe is still the main trading hub for the local villages, as well as the departure point for craft and produce that from the lake get delivered to the rest of the country. Motorized long boats take visitors to tribal villages made of stilt houses, farms and floating gardens, pagodas and floating silk and craft workshops. Most of the buildings on the lake shores are built with stilts on water, and activities are carried out in small rowing boats or long boats that skitter along the canals, carrying people and goods.

The wish to live these situations from near motivates us to rent bicycles from the guesthouse. We ride them with the ardor of kids who have been given a new gift, heading south in search of situations. As soon as we leave the village and cross the bridge over the canal, the chaos of the riverfront disappears, giving way to the peaceful countryside: rice fields, huge ponds populated by lush lotus plants in bloom, buffaloes taking a bath heedless of human presence, farmers who work the land and smile at our slow passage. Not far away, the mountains begin to be lit by a weak morning sun that is becoming more and more intense.

Tractors and motorbikes that transit on the dirt road carelessly raise huge clouds of dust. After about an hour ride we reach Hu Pin Hot Springs in the Intha village of Kaung Daing, known for the production of tofu from yellow beans instead of green. There, we allow ourselves a series of hot and relaxing baths. The hot water comes from a natural source upstream that is diverted into three different tanks downstream, where it is mixed with cold water. The water in the first tank is 70 degrees centigrade – unbearable -, it then becomes quite hot, 50 degrees, in the second tank, only to get to an acceptable 40 degrees in the third tank. It is early and we are the first to enter the hot springs compound; we enjoy the morning stillness and restore bones and muscles tired from cycling. We eat a satisfying meal of lake fish at the hot springs’ restaurant on stilts, and we then start looking for a boat pier on the west side of the lake, direction south.

After a number of negotiations, some characterized by heated discussions on price and destination first with a couple of farmers, then with a group of young people who are loading the boat with huge burlap sacks full of oranges, and finally, a boatman who was leaving empty grant us a ride to the Phaung Dew Oo Paya temple. Between us and the bikes, in a flash we fill the boat. The boatman tells us that it is late and that his is a one-way trip. We do not worry that much and we enjoy the scenic boat journey.

The ride is interesting to say the least; we pass and overcome boats packed with families and large groups of people from the surrounding villages heading to the temple for the annual festival. Today is a special day for Phaung Dew Oo Paya, which is the most important sacred place in the state of South Shan. Inside its multi-roofed pagoda, this colorful temple houses four ancient Buddha images, to which the faithful apply thin gold leaves that over the years have turned these images into amorphous golden masses. Once a year these images, which are normally kept on display in a pavilion inside the pagoda, are taken by a decorated barge on an around-the-lake ceremony.

Upon arrival, under many curious eyes we unload the bikes, lock them to an electricity post in the temple square and begin to enjoy the moment. We missed the main ceremony, but we can still experience part of the festival. There are several local families, some come from nearby villages, others from the surrounding hills. They feature flamboyant clothes and costumes, stones necklaces, amulets, and they bring offerings of food, beverages and golden leaves for the Buddhas. Groups of cheerful youngsters wear traditional peasants clothes and dance and sing, promoting recycling, environmental protection and the importance of education to young people. Improvised stalls sell local food like fried rice, roti, curry and various sweets, as well as balloons and kites for children, and various miniature replicas of relics and of the main pagoda for visitors who wish to take home a souvenir.

We visit the surrounding area and the pagoda interior, where the gilded blobs have been returned after the boat ride around the lake. A walk leads us to the next village where local merchants sell souvenirs of all kinds. On the way back to the pagoda, it is getting dark fast; the sellers withdraw their goods, the pagoda is locked and there is a confusion of people who take boats to go back home. It is immediately evident that it will be hard to find a ride: our bicycles are bulky and they cannot be loaded on boats crammed with people. Moreover, most of those we talk to, articulating as well as we can the name of our destination, Nyaungshwe, try to tell us that they are directed towards other areas. Apparently, the locals do not like to navigate in the dark, and Nyaungshwe is an hour by boat from here. We split to have more chances and in the end, when we are about to give up the search and find a place to sleep in the area, we manage to snatch a yes from a boatman who would take us across the lake, to a village on the east side called Thale -U. I look at my map: there are at least 10 kilometers from Thale -U to Nyaungshwe, something doable if it were not for the pitch darkness and for the fact that we do not know what kind of road we will find. No one in the area speaks English so we rely on fate; we accept the risk and embrace the adventure.

The trip on the lake is mesmerizing: we sail in a silence broken only by the engine of our boat, while the sky is now a huge dark expanse that blends in with the water’s edge of the lake, also black . A few dim lights warn us of villages along the water on the east coast. The boatman drives his primitive vessel and watches us with suspicion. We arrive at a dilapidated bamboo and wood dock on stilts, surrounded and almost entirely invaded by aquatic plants and grasses; we struggle to unload the bicycles on the boardwalk, then pay the ride and thank the boatman, who reverses the boat and leaves us in a movie-like situation. A few stars in the sky, a dog barking in the distance and nothing else. The trail is in front of us, but we do not see it. We proceed cautiously for a few meters, trying to avoid frequent potholes and ruts in the road; how long will we be able to hold at this pace? Perhaps it was not a brilliant idea, it would have been better to spend the night back at the village.

We refuse to get discouraged and after about ten minutes at a steady but slow pace, we come across a house that also functions as a groceries and necessities shop. I make my way in under the shocked look of the owners, a family of farmers very surprised to see a stranger in a bicycle at that time on that path. I purchase a torch, one of those used by speleologists with a rubber band to wear it around the head, along with a blister of batteries. It turns out to be our salvation! We pedal what seems to be a long time in the pitch dark, the only dim light of the made-in-China torch to illuminate our way. The path is uneven, at times made ​​of ups and downs heavy for our legs that have to push old-fashioned bikes with flawed gears.

Along the way, we meet some sporadic scooters and some people who walk in the vicinity of hamlets that comprise a few houses made of wood, bamboo and straw; they all look at us appalled. Not a car, not a bike. The path occasionally becomes a paved road that widens until it ends and returns to be a path, in a succession that seems endless. After more than an hour we pass a couple of luxury hotels built on the banks of the river. We take the opportunity to ask passers-by if the road is the right one, an awkward question as there cannot be other roads. It is more to feel good, to sense that we are moving on in this venture: at first we thought it hard to accomplish, but we are now certain to succeed.

An unexpected enemy comes in the form of a cold air that becomes more and more unbearable. We do not wear suitable clothes, and even though we warm up by cycling, fatigue often causes us to slow down the ride. We reach a shack that serves as a bar-restaurant and we allow for a break, a hot tea and a traditional cigarillo cheroots while we rest legs and bones. Alas we do not know that we still have an hour of pedaling before we reach the destination. We finally arrive late in the evening, exhausted but happy to have lived this adventure. We treat ourselves to dinner at a Nepalese restaurant, where we arrive 10 minutes before closing time, and we comfort ourselves with good memories of the day and with a hot and spicy Masala Tea. It’s cool on the streets of Nyaungshwe, we will sleep well tonight…

Check out info on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hpaung_Daw_U_Pagoda

Read Part 1: http://asianitinerary.asia/inle-lake-trip-part-1/ – and Part 3: http://asianitinerary.asia/inle-lake-hitchhiking-part-3/

The post INLE LAKE – BY BICYCLE AROUND THE LAKE PART 2 appeared first on Asian Itinerary.

DAY 4

My recklessness has no limits, so I decide to hire a mountain bike and venture into Kathmandu traffic, which is not as bad as I thought. I head to the east and, after dealing with some strenuous ups and downs and the bad attitude of truck drivers disrespectful of any other vehicle, let alone of bicycles, I step away from the traffic and land in the relative tranquility of the suburbs where I am witness of a radical change from the city to the rural Nepal. My butt also experiences a radical change after an hour sitting on the hard seat.

PASHUPATINATH

Baba

After 45 minutes of hard pedaling I arrive at Pashupatinath, the most important Hindu sacred precinct of the country, home to one of the most famous Shiva temples in the Indian subcontinent. Pashupati, the lord of the beasts, has become increasingly important for the Nepalese who visit the site before a trip or an important mission to receive the blessing of this deity. This sacred place is famous for the cremations that are celebrated on the banks of the Bagmati River, a river as sacred to Pashupatinath as the Ganges is to Varanasi. From 6 am to 7 pm funeral pyres are constantly lit under the eyes of hundreds of Nepalese and of some tourists hungry for an original photo reportage. On the numerous ghats – the steps leading to the river – the altars used for funeral ceremonies lay alongside the flow of the water. Some of these altars are used by poor families, while others are reserved for the rich and noble; each caste has its own cremation field. Some cheeky monkeys frolic nearby, waiting.

I sit on a long flight of steps on the opposite bank, where dozens of curious tourists have already positioned themselves to attend a ceremony that is being prepared. The waiting is long and allows me to stroll amongst beautiful temples with enigmatic shapes and inscriptions, tantric images and erotic scenes. At some point, those who seem to father and son carry the body of an old man down the steps, dipping his feet in the water in order to sanctify it. The scene is slightly grotesque, the dead man’s expression is absorbed and his mouth is open; his skin has already assumed a pale color.

On one of the platforms people are dutifully preparing woven wood for a pyre; I mistakenly think it is for the body of the elderly, but all of a sudden a group of people carries a young woman and lays it on the wood. What is probably her husband sprinkles the body, covered almost entirely by a white veil, with colorful spices while a pair of women do the same with flowers. The young woman’s beautiful face is uncovered and the man, after filling the pyre with small twigs for easing ignition, sets fire by putting one of the lit twigs into her mouth, and says his last prayers. Everything takes place in complete silence, family members do not shout or cry, just meditate and observe, and this makes death seem the most natural thing in the world. Tourists take pictures from the other bank of the river, but discretely and with zoom lenses so as not to offend the mourners.

pashupatinath sadhus

Smoking has now completely covered her body and the smell of burning flesh permeates the air. There is a flat, perceptible silence. I decide to visit other temples within a radius of 500 meters from the ghats. In one of these I make the acquaintance of one of the many sadhus, the holy Hindu ascetics, with their orange robes and their faces tainted by the many pujas. One of them, a yogi – yoga teacher – who calls himself Baba Kalabar, delights me with some yoga postures that make him look like a circus contortionist. He has a mouse-like face, a blissful and genuine smile, he is dressed in yellow and carries along all his possessions, which consist of a small crumpled and half-empty backpack and an iron bar with a ring at each end that helps him in his impossible body postures. His face is almost completely painted in yellow, as well as his hair, long and smeared with a strange oily substance, while the palms of his hands are stained in red. His body is covered with a patina of indelible dirt, and around his neck he wears a couple of thick coral necklaces for Hindu prayers. I take the opportunity to immortalize him several times, along with his companion, a sadhu dressed in red with a okra yellow turban on his head, also smiling and very helpful. I take my leave, promising to send the pictures taken via post. I write down the address, Baba Kalabar, Pashupatinath, Kathmandu, while I wonder if the postman delivers mail to these dedicated hermits.

Once I am back on the banks of the river, the woman’s body is reduced to a heap of ashes and most of the onlookers are gone, while smoke continues to cloud the air and the various pilgrims tend to their activities of all time, regardless: the offers, the purifying bath in the holy waters, the incenses and so on. Her ashes are later assigned to the Bagmati River and will follow its course until it flows into the sacred Ganges.

BODHNATH

I get back the bicycle, take a stroll in the local market and then move further away from the city, destination Bodhnath, home to the largest stupa in all of Nepal and one of the largest in the world.

Finally, after a good hour of cycling through paths full of stones, I arrive in Bodhnath main street. Various little roads lead to the square entrance, in the center of which lies the famous stupa, resembling that of the Swayambhunath  but with a much broader perimeter. I leave the bike tied under a portico, pay the entrance fee and dive into a multitude of small shops that surround the majestic sanctuary, adorned with hundreds of prayer flags.

This is the religious center of the Tibetan population in the country, and it is where most of the Tibetan community lives. The presence of monks and devotees is high, they come from all over Asia. Several dirt roads lead to various gompas – the monasteries – some a couple of miles away, others only a few hundred meters. I choose one close enough and almost deserted, no tourists around, and I take the opportunity to take my shoes off, as the custom requires, and enter. I sit down in silence amongst meditating monks, and in doing so I enjoy the mystical atmosphere amongst people who radiate an addictive peace and tranquility that you breathe in the air, and it fills the spirit.

I could sit here for hours, listening to these songs that follow the rhythm given by the elder lama who is sitting on an elevated stool. Behind him, huge golden statues depicting the Buddha fill the back wall, and under each there are several burning candles and a large photo of the Dalai Lama. The other walls and ceiling are decorated with paintings on cotton with strong outlines that recall life scenes of the enlightened, already seen in the famous Thankas, the traditional paintings on canvas framed in fabric depicting subjects related to Buddhism. Often, the murals show scenes from mythological times: ancient lamas and mandalas, the diagrams that help the art of meditation and represent the various forces of the universe. Another of the classic subjects of the murals is the ‘wheel of life’, which represents Buddha’s infinite knowledge and wisdom, and the road that the human being has to take in order to get out of samsara, hell, and enter nirvana, heaven. Colorful silk banners with flaps showing inscriptions in Tibetan and Chinese language hang from the ceiling and on the columns. Occasionally a monk leaves the monastery only to return with bowls full of food, mostly seeds, legumes and rice, which he distributes amongst those present. I find the whole thing moving and I feel very fortunate to be able to share with them, if only for a few tens of minutes, a crumb of their disciplined lives devoted to self-sustenance, prayer and worshipping of the Buddha.

Outside, the sun is setting relentlessly, and this is a great time for Bodhnath. The hordes of tourists go back to town and the place regains its Buddhist character of all time: the inhabitants gather to chat while they perform the ritual of walking around the stupa clockwise, as tradition commands. The shops selling Tibetan handicrafts are closing their doors.

The trip back to the city is less hard than I thought – the legs are strong now – but it is characterized by much more traffic than on the first leg. I spend the evening in the hotel, resting from the heavy day.

To learn more click http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pashupatinath_Temple or http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boudhanath

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